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Google Sketchup - Come Along for the Ride

101577 Views 169 Replies 34 Participants Last post by Tangle, Nov 18, 2008

Betsy

Discussion Starter · Jun 26, 2008

Trying to get back in the swing - new project

OK - so I'm finally getting back to doing things. Small stuff mostly and easy things. So I'm thinking of making a cutting board for my sister-in-law. A board for cutting bread. She makes the best homemade bread!!

Anyway - this is what I'm trying to do.

Photobucket

I'm having trouble getting the colors right. The whole idea of doing a SU picture is to see if what you want to do will look good, etc.

I want to change a couple of the components to a walnut color.

If you try to imagine what I want to do-the first 3" section (on the left) will have cherry on the bottom - walnut on the top.

then comes a maple strip, then a 3/4 strip with walnut on the bottom and cherry on top - then a maple strip - then 3/4 strip with cherry on bottom and walnut on top - then a maple strip then the 3" piece on the right has
walnut on the bottom and cherry on top.

If anyone can help with the coloring I'd appreciate it. I looked in the paint bucket and there are not many wood colors - I'm sure there is a way to import more - but not sure how.

Thanks in advance for any help.

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #121 · Aug 10, 2008

Plodding along on my drawer project - having issues with scaling

So I'm home from the church concert - WOW - kinds of revs you up. So decided to try to learn a little bit more on the SU front.

I'm probably the slowest learner on this type of stuff - but no one can say I'm not persistent!

So here I go.

This is my first side - which shows the length (10.25); width (.5); and height (3.5) and I've made it a component.

This next shot shows the second side having been copied and moved to it's location. Notice the dado is on the outside of the side.

Now on to scaling. Select the second side and then pick up the scale tool. I'm certain I want to use the middle "grip".

Now I've "pushed" my grip toward the first side.

I typed in positive 1 in the VCB and this is what I've got.

As you can see the dado is still on the outside of the side.

I then tried the same move and typed negative 1.

As you can see from the above shot - my dado is now on the inside, but I'm off my guideline mark by 1/2".

So I'm obviously missing a subtle little tidbit about scaling.

Dave - I've watched your video numerous times and I can't find what I'm missing that you did.

I ended up flipping the side along the red axis.

Flipping put the dado on the inside and the side on guide line.

I did the same technique from above to make my front/back.

You can see from the next shot that I have at least managed to make my box the finished size that I would like which is 10.25 deep x 13 7/8 wide x. 3.5 high.

So there you have my latest "masterpiece." I'll work on the box joints tomorrow.

As always - all help appreciated. Hopefully, my plodding along is helping others-or at least giving some good chuckles (which is more than fine with me)!

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #122 · Aug 10, 2008

Betsy said:
Plodding along on my drawer project - having issues with scaling

So I'm home from the church concert - WOW - kinds of revs you up. So decided to try to learn a little bit more on the SU front.

I'm probably the slowest learner on this type of stuff - but no one can say I'm not persistent!

So here I go.

This is my first side - which shows the length (10.25); width (.5); and height (3.5) and I've made it a component.

This next shot shows the second side having been copied and moved to it's location. Notice the dado is on the outside of the side.

Now on to scaling. Select the second side and then pick up the scale tool. I'm certain I want to use the middle "grip".

Now I've "pushed" my grip toward the first side.

I typed in positive 1 in the VCB and this is what I've got.

As you can see the dado is still on the outside of the side.

I then tried the same move and typed negative 1.

As you can see from the above shot - my dado is now on the inside, but I'm off my guideline mark by 1/2".

So I'm obviously missing a subtle little tidbit about scaling.

Dave - I've watched your video numerous times and I can't find what I'm missing that you did.

I ended up flipping the side along the red axis.

Flipping put the dado on the inside and the side on guide line.

I did the same technique from above to make my front/back.

You can see from the next shot that I have at least managed to make my box the finished size that I would like which is 10.25 deep x 13 7/8 wide x. 3.5 high.

So there you have my latest "masterpiece." I'll work on the box joints tomorrow.

As always - all help appreciated. Hopefully, my plodding along is helping others-or at least giving some good chuckles (which is more than fine with me)!

That is a point to be made with SU, and I'm assuming other programs, if you can't accomplish a task one way-- try toggle keys. The control key seems to be the master key.

Thanks Dave. Will work on my project a little bit more today.

Betsy

Discussion Starter · #123 · Aug 10, 2008

A little tidbit that I picked up about guides

Here's a little tidbit that I recognized tonight while drawing my guidelines for my drawers.

Notice on the first shot that my red inference dot is on the middle of the red axis and I've got a dotted line showing where my guideline will be when I release my mouse.

This next shot shows where I start on the "origin" (yellow inference dot) and move up the green axis.

At first I thought that because I was moving on the green axis line itself - I did not get a guideline - instead I got a guide mark symbolized by the small cross on the green axis. But first thoughts are deceptive. You'll see in the next group why you don't want a black dot if you want a guideline and not a guide mark.

Now I need to draw my other line to make the outline of my box. Notice in this next shot that you see both the black inference dot at the origin and the red dot on the green axis. This will not give me the guideline that I need.

To get my second guideline - I need to get only the red inference line and move away from the green axis.

I finally have my guidelines for my box.

Hopefully that's clearer than mud.

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #124 · Aug 10, 2008

Betsy said:
A little tidbit that I picked up about guides

Here's a little tidbit that I recognized tonight while drawing my guidelines for my drawers.

Notice on the first shot that my red inference dot is on the middle of the red axis and I've got a dotted line showing where my guideline will be when I release my mouse.

This next shot shows where I start on the "origin" (yellow inference dot) and move up the green axis.

At first I thought that because I was moving on the green axis line itself - I did not get a guideline - instead I got a guide mark symbolized by the small cross on the green axis. But first thoughts are deceptive. You'll see in the next group why you don't want a black dot if you want a guideline and not a guide mark.

Now I need to draw my other line to make the outline of my box. Notice in this next shot that you see both the black inference dot at the origin and the red dot on the green axis. This will not give me the guideline that I need.

To get my second guideline - I need to get only the red inference line and move away from the green axis.

I finally have my guidelines for my box.

Hopefully that's clearer than mud.

The devil really is in the details!

Betsy

Discussion Starter · #125 · Aug 11, 2008

Grand experiment on posting a video

I've been wondering how some of you make videos to post on the net. Scott (Chicowoodnut) put me onto
http://sourceforge.net/projects/camstudio/?abmode=1

It's a pretty cool looking program. I actually managed to do a very short video on SU. What surprised me when I played it back was that it had sound! I had no idea my laptop had a built in microphone. So if you play this video - you'll hear all the typing going on but nothing else. I highly suggest turning the sound down as I'm apparently quite a noisy typist. I stopped and started the video quite a lot while I messing with the SU.

I can certainly see where learning to do the video will help me to explain what issues I'm having learning the SU program. But, of course, this just gives me another computer thing to learn about. That can be a good thing, or not. There's a lot to know about these different programs. But I figure I've got at least another week off of work (at least I hope only another week) and another 4 or so after that before I can get back in the shop. So I should have some time to learn them.

I'm quite certain that I have not uploaded the video to this blog correctly. When I opened blip.tv (with the open mini-browser below) and hit my dashboard - it just started to run my video. I had to work on figuring out how to find the "address" of the video.

So anyway - here is my first video for what it's worth. It's no great shakes and has loads of room for improvement.

http://blip.tv/file/1162681

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #126 · Aug 11, 2008

Betsy said:
Grand experiment on posting a video

I've been wondering how some of you make videos to post on the net. Scott (Chicowoodnut) put me onto
http://sourceforge.net/projects/camstudio/?abmode=1

It's a pretty cool looking program. I actually managed to do a very short video on SU. What surprised me when I played it back was that it had sound! I had no idea my laptop had a built in microphone. So if you play this video - you'll hear all the typing going on but nothing else. I highly suggest turning the sound down as I'm apparently quite a noisy typist. I stopped and started the video quite a lot while I messing with the SU.

I can certainly see where learning to do the video will help me to explain what issues I'm having learning the SU program. But, of course, this just gives me another computer thing to learn about. That can be a good thing, or not. There's a lot to know about these different programs. But I figure I've got at least another week off of work (at least I hope only another week) and another 4 or so after that before I can get back in the shop. So I should have some time to learn them.

I'm quite certain that I have not uploaded the video to this blog correctly. When I opened blip.tv (with the open mini-browser below) and hit my dashboard - it just started to run my video. I had to work on figuring out how to find the "address" of the video.

So anyway - here is my first video for what it's worth. It's no great shakes and has loads of room for improvement.

http://blip.tv/file/1162681

Thanks Dave!

I'm using a three-wheeled mouse. I must admit though to reverting back to my touch pad sometimes out of force of habit. I just got the mouse out a few weeks ago and getting used to it.

ChicoWoodnut

· #127 · Aug 11, 2008

Betsy said:
Grand experiment on posting a video

I've been wondering how some of you make videos to post on the net. Scott (Chicowoodnut) put me onto
http://sourceforge.net/projects/camstudio/?abmode=1

It's a pretty cool looking program. I actually managed to do a very short video on SU. What surprised me when I played it back was that it had sound! I had no idea my laptop had a built in microphone. So if you play this video - you'll hear all the typing going on but nothing else. I highly suggest turning the sound down as I'm apparently quite a noisy typist. I stopped and started the video quite a lot while I messing with the SU.

I can certainly see where learning to do the video will help me to explain what issues I'm having learning the SU program. But, of course, this just gives me another computer thing to learn about. That can be a good thing, or not. There's a lot to know about these different programs. But I figure I've got at least another week off of work (at least I hope only another week) and another 4 or so after that before I can get back in the shop. So I should have some time to learn them.

I'm quite certain that I have not uploaded the video to this blog correctly. When I opened blip.tv (with the open mini-browser below) and hit my dashboard - it just started to run my video. I had to work on figuring out how to find the "address" of the video.

So anyway - here is my first video for what it's worth. It's no great shakes and has loads of room for improvement.

http://blip.tv/file/1162681

Cool Betsy,

Now I want to hear you humming to your self like Glen Gould does when he plays Bach.

http://bujassem.blogspot.com/2007/11/glenn-gould-hum-if-youre-happy.html

Betsy

Discussion Starter · #128 · Aug 11, 2008

Betsy said:
Grand experiment on posting a video

I've been wondering how some of you make videos to post on the net. Scott (Chicowoodnut) put me onto
http://sourceforge.net/projects/camstudio/?abmode=1

It's a pretty cool looking program. I actually managed to do a very short video on SU. What surprised me when I played it back was that it had sound! I had no idea my laptop had a built in microphone. So if you play this video - you'll hear all the typing going on but nothing else. I highly suggest turning the sound down as I'm apparently quite a noisy typist. I stopped and started the video quite a lot while I messing with the SU.

I can certainly see where learning to do the video will help me to explain what issues I'm having learning the SU program. But, of course, this just gives me another computer thing to learn about. That can be a good thing, or not. There's a lot to know about these different programs. But I figure I've got at least another week off of work (at least I hope only another week) and another 4 or so after that before I can get back in the shop. So I should have some time to learn them.

I'm quite certain that I have not uploaded the video to this blog correctly. When I opened blip.tv (with the open mini-browser below) and hit my dashboard - it just started to run my video. I had to work on figuring out how to find the "address" of the video.

So anyway - here is my first video for what it's worth. It's no great shakes and has loads of room for improvement.

http://blip.tv/file/1162681

Hummmm humming while I type, my fingers might get confused. This guy seems like pure genius and could do both at the same time. Thanks for sharing it - it was enjoyable listening/watching.

Betsy

Discussion Starter · #129 · Aug 11, 2008

Scale tool ---- I DID IT!

OK - I know I'm a slow learner - but I finally got the scale tool.

One thing DaveR pointed out that I honestly did not see before is that when you select a tool from the tool bar - an explanation of what that tool does appears in the lower left corner of the window screen. If there is a toggle option it will also show in the explanation.

So here's my short video on how I used the scale tool.

http://blip.tv/play/Ace5HwA

On to making the joints.

Thanks for looking. As you can see I certainly need to work on the video program - but that's for another day.

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #130 · Aug 11, 2008

Hall table project

I know you have all probably have had enough of this blasted table by now, but the repetition is helping me learn.

I'm trying to blog about a few of the smaller things that I've picked up that I did not know before and that others may not have known. Some who are more computer savvy-- please look away and or forgive me!

The first shot just shows that I've drawn out guidelines for the footprint of my table, my first leg which has the mortises cut in. Pretty basic - but until just a short while ago I struggled with. I made the leg a component.

The second shot shows that I have copied and moved my leg. The shot shows that both legs are "blue" which means they are both "selected". Until just recently I did not know that if you select the first object then hold down the Shift key and click the next object that both would be "selected." (I believe there is a way to do so by clicking and holding down the mouse key - but I can't seem to get that to work.)

The third shot shows that I've copied and moved my two leg set to the other end of the footprint and both are still "selected."

The fourth shot shows that I have picked the scale tool and will be scaling/mirroring both legs at once. I could not get my print screen program to work while holding the Control key down-- but to scale across the center point of the object you have to hold down the Control key while you are pushing the object through.

The fifth and last shot simply shows that my legs are now correctly positioned with the mortises in their proper order.

The program is certainly getting easier to use and understand. The devil is certainly in the details.

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5

lew

· #131 · Aug 11, 2008

Betsy said:
Hall table project

I know you have all probably have had enough of this blasted table by now, but the repetition is helping me learn.

I'm trying to blog about a few of the smaller things that I've picked up that I did not know before and that others may not have known. Some who are more computer savvy-- please look away and or forgive me!

The first shot just shows that I've drawn out guidelines for the footprint of my table, my first leg which has the mortises cut in. Pretty basic - but until just a short while ago I struggled with. I made the leg a component.

The second shot shows that I have copied and moved my leg. The shot shows that both legs are "blue" which means they are both "selected". Until just recently I did not know that if you select the first object then hold down the Shift key and click the next object that both would be "selected." (I believe there is a way to do so by clicking and holding down the mouse key - but I can't seem to get that to work.)

The third shot shows that I've copied and moved my two leg set to the other end of the footprint and both are still "selected."

The fourth shot shows that I have picked the scale tool and will be scaling/mirroring both legs at once. I could not get my print screen program to work while holding the Control key down-- but to scale across the center point of the object you have to hold down the Control key while you are pushing the object through.

The fifth and last shot simply shows that my legs are now correctly positioned with the mortises in their proper order.

The program is certainly getting easier to use and understand. The devil is certainly in the details.

Betsy,
Thanks again, for all your hard work!

I have been transferring all of your posts and relevant responses to a Word Document. I will post the complete, unedited file on Google pages for anyone who would want it.

Lew

FatherHooligan

· #132 · Aug 11, 2008

Betsy said:
Hall table project

I know you have all probably have had enough of this blasted table by now, but the repetition is helping me learn.

I'm trying to blog about a few of the smaller things that I've picked up that I did not know before and that others may not have known. Some who are more computer savvy-- please look away and or forgive me!

The first shot just shows that I've drawn out guidelines for the footprint of my table, my first leg which has the mortises cut in. Pretty basic - but until just a short while ago I struggled with. I made the leg a component.

The second shot shows that I have copied and moved my leg. The shot shows that both legs are "blue" which means they are both "selected". Until just recently I did not know that if you select the first object then hold down the Shift key and click the next object that both would be "selected." (I believe there is a way to do so by clicking and holding down the mouse key - but I can't seem to get that to work.)

The third shot shows that I've copied and moved my two leg set to the other end of the footprint and both are still "selected."

The fourth shot shows that I have picked the scale tool and will be scaling/mirroring both legs at once. I could not get my print screen program to work while holding the Control key down-- but to scale across the center point of the object you have to hold down the Control key while you are pushing the object through.

The fifth and last shot simply shows that my legs are now correctly positioned with the mortises in their proper order.

The program is certainly getting easier to use and understand. The devil is certainly in the details.

Great work Betsy, It is the minutia that sometimes trips us up… I like the fact that you go through so much detail. I think some of my best math teachers going through school were not intuitive mathematicians so they understood how difficult the unintuitive (such as myself) found the topic. Because you are working through all the details it makes it easier for those reading to understand how the software works. Well done.

Betsy

Discussion Starter · #133 · Aug 12, 2008

Web site for Sketchup

I have the Google Sketchup for Dummies book and it gives a website to go to for tips, etc. It's listed in the book as www.dummies.com/go/SketchUpFD, but I could never get that site to work for me. So I ended up tonight just e-mailing the author, Aidan Chopra, for help. He sent me a different link and I wanted to share it with all of you.

www.sketchupfordummies.com

I've looked at a great deal of the videos and they are well worth the time to view.

Happy sketching!

Ampeater

· #134 · Aug 12, 2008

Betsy said:
Web site for Sketchup

I have the Google Sketchup for Dummies book and it gives a website to go to for tips, etc. It's listed in the book as www.dummies.com/go/SketchUpFD, but I could never get that site to work for me. So I ended up tonight just e-mailing the author, Aidan Chopra, for help. He sent me a different link and I wanted to share it with all of you.

www.sketchupfordummies.com

I've looked at a great deal of the videos and they are well worth the time to view.

Happy sketching!

Thanks for posting. I like using SU but I need some help on the more complicated stuff.

lew

· #135 · Aug 12, 2008

Betsy said:
Web site for Sketchup

I have the Google Sketchup for Dummies book and it gives a website to go to for tips, etc. It's listed in the book as www.dummies.com/go/SketchUpFD, but I could never get that site to work for me. So I ended up tonight just e-mailing the author, Aidan Chopra, for help. He sent me a different link and I wanted to share it with all of you.

www.sketchupfordummies.com

I've looked at a great deal of the videos and they are well worth the time to view.

Happy sketching!

Thanks, Betsy!

Betsy

Discussion Starter · #136 · Aug 12, 2008

Reinserting back apron, hide group, outline, x-ray view and questions, of course

Heading into the home stretch. I redrew some of my table to point out some things I was learning. However, I left off on my hall table with a few problems (OK - more than a few) that I'm working on fixing. Specifically, I need to redraw my back apron because somewhere along the line I erased the back edge and did not make it a component. Because I did not make it a component, when I drew in my drawer runners - the runners broke the face of the apron. Secondly, I redrew my drawer runners because I did not like the way they looked or how I had them placed. I'm sure there is an easier way to fix it rather than taking out the rest and starting over, but that's what I chose to do.

This is the "now shot" showing the back apron missing and without the runners.

Somewhere along this long story, I made the top a "group." Because it's a group, I can hide it which makes it easier to work on the lower sections of the table. Select the group and right click to find the hide. Unhiding takes a few additional steps which I'll show later in this blog.

The next shot just shows the table in it's present form without the top.

The next two shots just show a close up of the back leg where I need to reinsert the apron. Guidelines have been drawn in and I started working on putting in some text. I still have not found how to insert the little arrows to point to things.

Next just shows the x-ray function. This is a great way to see through your geometry so you can add things or decide what you want to change.

This shot shows that I've drawn in my rectangle for the tenon and have set it up to push/pull it to the 1/2" I need.

Now you can see one of my problems. My tenon does not connect to my apron.

Now I've gone to "un-hide" my top. You have to use the "outliner" tool to bring back the top. The outliner is found on the menu bar under "window." My "group" that I want to un-hide is under the listing "top." You double click that file then right click to bring up the context menu to find the un-hide selection. Outliner is also where you will find all the components listed as well.

Next is where I am putting in a runner. It's a simple rectangle that is pushed/pulled to the other end.

So this is where I've left off.

Next, I want to put in the dado for the apron buttons and make/insert the buttons to attach the top. Then, of course, is finishing the drawers and inserting them in. So still lots to do.

As always, comments and suggestions/help are always appreciated.

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #137 · Aug 12, 2008

Betsy said:
Reinserting back apron, hide group, outline, x-ray view and questions, of course

Heading into the home stretch. I redrew some of my table to point out some things I was learning. However, I left off on my hall table with a few problems (OK - more than a few) that I'm working on fixing. Specifically, I need to redraw my back apron because somewhere along the line I erased the back edge and did not make it a component. Because I did not make it a component, when I drew in my drawer runners - the runners broke the face of the apron. Secondly, I redrew my drawer runners because I did not like the way they looked or how I had them placed. I'm sure there is an easier way to fix it rather than taking out the rest and starting over, but that's what I chose to do.

This is the "now shot" showing the back apron missing and without the runners.

Somewhere along this long story, I made the top a "group." Because it's a group, I can hide it which makes it easier to work on the lower sections of the table. Select the group and right click to find the hide. Unhiding takes a few additional steps which I'll show later in this blog.

The next shot just shows the table in it's present form without the top.

The next two shots just show a close up of the back leg where I need to reinsert the apron. Guidelines have been drawn in and I started working on putting in some text. I still have not found how to insert the little arrows to point to things.

Next just shows the x-ray function. This is a great way to see through your geometry so you can add things or decide what you want to change.

This shot shows that I've drawn in my rectangle for the tenon and have set it up to push/pull it to the 1/2" I need.

Now you can see one of my problems. My tenon does not connect to my apron.

Now I've gone to "un-hide" my top. You have to use the "outliner" tool to bring back the top. The outliner is found on the menu bar under "window." My "group" that I want to un-hide is under the listing "top." You double click that file then right click to bring up the context menu to find the un-hide selection. Outliner is also where you will find all the components listed as well.

Next is where I am putting in a runner. It's a simple rectangle that is pushed/pulled to the other end.

So this is where I've left off.

Next, I want to put in the dado for the apron buttons and make/insert the buttons to attach the top. Then, of course, is finishing the drawers and inserting them in. So still lots to do.

As always, comments and suggestions/help are always appreciated.

Thanks Dave. I'll try to fix that leg.

As the front apron-- The two end pieces are mirrored, but I don't think I made them components. The top and bottom rails are individual pieces. It honestly did not even occur to me to make such simple parts components-but it makes sense.

These plugins that people talk about - are they free downloads also?

Will keep you posted on my progress.

Second big night out tonight! Dinner with friends - so probably won't do any more work until after dinner.

I really appreciate all you help and tutoring.

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Betsy

Discussion Starter · #138 · Aug 14, 2008

Drawers - still more questions

I'm still working on this project and the drawers are coming closer.

As with anything there are numerous ways to get to the same destination. DaveR, who has the patience of a saint, has been trying to show me how to do this project.

See this entry http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Betsy/blog/5575

I've been struggling with this technique - not sure why - but it is what it is. Long and short I came up with an alternate method that probably won't work if I were going to do any cutlist plugins, etc. but it's getting me closer. I still have a long, long way to go.

So without further delay - this is how I did my drawer.

First, of course, I started with my side which is .5×10.25×3.5. On one end I put in a guideline to 1/2" to start marking the box joint.

Next I copied the guideline, moved it down by 1/2" (typed in .5, hit enter, then 5) then did an "array" which is essentially the number of copies that you need to complete the project.

Then I used the line tool to outline each finger (just on the end).

Next, I used the push/pull tool to push back the top finger by 1/2".

You can push back the other fingers by double clicking the left mouse button.

Repeat the same process on the opposite end.

I don't show it, but I made a dado on the inside of the side to accept the drawer bottom. Then the part is made into a component.

You'll notice in this next shot that I have the part blued out and there is an additional guideline placed 1/2" from the red axis. You'll also notice the inference dot showing that I have the bottom inside corner of the last finger picked up to move over to the other side of my grid. The extra guideline makes it easy to know exactly where to drop the side.

You'll notice that I took out the extra guideline and you can see that there is perfect placement of the second side.

Next I used the scale tool to mirror the side so that the dado is on the correct side.

Now to work on the front/back of the box. I draw a rectangle from the upper left corner to the lower right corner of the second side. You'll see that it is green and the rectangle breaks through the box joint.

I next used the push/pull tool to pull the rectangle out by 1/2"

I failed to take a screen shot of this, but I used the line tool to outline the fingers on the front - on both ends and used the push/pull tool to move the fingers back. Then I pulled out the side.

You'll notice the completed box - I simply followed the same procedure to insert the dado and moved a copy to the other end of the box.

I finished up by making a second copy to simply move into one of the drawer openings. I also made the drawer bottom.

I next need to figure out how to place the drawer bottom into the drawer and apply the drawer front.

I've certainly been having fun with this project. Hoping to get it finished up so I can work on something else. But I really think I'm starting to get the hang of things.

If you have not already done so you should get on Youtube and search "Sketchup woodworking." You'll be given lots of good videos to watch.

As always any comments, help and suggestions are welcomes.

And a great BIG* thanks to everyone who has helped me along the road here.

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18

lew

· #139 · Aug 14, 2008

Betsy said:
Drawers - still more questions

I'm still working on this project and the drawers are coming closer.

As with anything there are numerous ways to get to the same destination. DaveR, who has the patience of a saint, has been trying to show me how to do this project.

See this entry http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Betsy/blog/5575

I've been struggling with this technique - not sure why - but it is what it is. Long and short I came up with an alternate method that probably won't work if I were going to do any cutlist plugins, etc. but it's getting me closer. I still have a long, long way to go.

So without further delay - this is how I did my drawer.

First, of course, I started with my side which is .5×10.25×3.5. On one end I put in a guideline to 1/2" to start marking the box joint.

Next I copied the guideline, moved it down by 1/2" (typed in .5, hit enter, then 5) then did an "array" which is essentially the number of copies that you need to complete the project.

Then I used the line tool to outline each finger (just on the end).

Next, I used the push/pull tool to push back the top finger by 1/2".

You can push back the other fingers by double clicking the left mouse button.

Repeat the same process on the opposite end.

I don't show it, but I made a dado on the inside of the side to accept the drawer bottom. Then the part is made into a component.

You'll notice in this next shot that I have the part blued out and there is an additional guideline placed 1/2" from the red axis. You'll also notice the inference dot showing that I have the bottom inside corner of the last finger picked up to move over to the other side of my grid. The extra guideline makes it easy to know exactly where to drop the side.

You'll notice that I took out the extra guideline and you can see that there is perfect placement of the second side.

Next I used the scale tool to mirror the side so that the dado is on the correct side.

Now to work on the front/back of the box. I draw a rectangle from the upper left corner to the lower right corner of the second side. You'll see that it is green and the rectangle breaks through the box joint.

I next used the push/pull tool to pull the rectangle out by 1/2"

I failed to take a screen shot of this, but I used the line tool to outline the fingers on the front - on both ends and used the push/pull tool to move the fingers back. Then I pulled out the side.

You'll notice the completed box - I simply followed the same procedure to insert the dado and moved a copy to the other end of the box.

I finished up by making a second copy to simply move into one of the drawer openings. I also made the drawer bottom.

I next need to figure out how to place the drawer bottom into the drawer and apply the drawer front.

I've certainly been having fun with this project. Hoping to get it finished up so I can work on something else. But I really think I'm starting to get the hang of things.

If you have not already done so you should get on Youtube and search "Sketchup woodworking." You'll be given lots of good videos to watch.

As always any comments, help and suggestions are welcomes.

And a great BIG* thanks to everyone who has helped me along the road here.

Betsy and Dave-

You "guys" are awesome!!!!!!!

Lew

jeanmarc

· #140 · Aug 14, 2008

Betsy said:
Drawers - still more questions

I'm still working on this project and the drawers are coming closer.

As with anything there are numerous ways to get to the same destination. DaveR, who has the patience of a saint, has been trying to show me how to do this project.

See this entry http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Betsy/blog/5575

I've been struggling with this technique - not sure why - but it is what it is. Long and short I came up with an alternate method that probably won't work if I were going to do any cutlist plugins, etc. but it's getting me closer. I still have a long, long way to go.

So without further delay - this is how I did my drawer.

First, of course, I started with my side which is .5×10.25×3.5. On one end I put in a guideline to 1/2" to start marking the box joint.

Next I copied the guideline, moved it down by 1/2" (typed in .5, hit enter, then 5) then did an "array" which is essentially the number of copies that you need to complete the project.

Then I used the line tool to outline each finger (just on the end).

Next, I used the push/pull tool to push back the top finger by 1/2".

You can push back the other fingers by double clicking the left mouse button.

Repeat the same process on the opposite end.

I don't show it, but I made a dado on the inside of the side to accept the drawer bottom. Then the part is made into a component.

You'll notice in this next shot that I have the part blued out and there is an additional guideline placed 1/2" from the red axis. You'll also notice the inference dot showing that I have the bottom inside corner of the last finger picked up to move over to the other side of my grid. The extra guideline makes it easy to know exactly where to drop the side.

You'll notice that I took out the extra guideline and you can see that there is perfect placement of the second side.

Next I used the scale tool to mirror the side so that the dado is on the correct side.

Now to work on the front/back of the box. I draw a rectangle from the upper left corner to the lower right corner of the second side. You'll see that it is green and the rectangle breaks through the box joint.

I next used the push/pull tool to pull the rectangle out by 1/2"

I failed to take a screen shot of this, but I used the line tool to outline the fingers on the front - on both ends and used the push/pull tool to move the fingers back. Then I pulled out the side.

You'll notice the completed box - I simply followed the same procedure to insert the dado and moved a copy to the other end of the box.

I finished up by making a second copy to simply move into one of the drawer openings. I also made the drawer bottom.

I next need to figure out how to place the drawer bottom into the drawer and apply the drawer front.

I've certainly been having fun with this project. Hoping to get it finished up so I can work on something else. But I really think I'm starting to get the hang of things.

If you have not already done so you should get on Youtube and search "Sketchup woodworking." You'll be given lots of good videos to watch.

As always any comments, help and suggestions are welcomes.

And a great BIG* thanks to everyone who has helped me along the road here.

I think that I go put to put has …......... very beautiful job it is true that my projects I prefer to draw them. but C is very interesting thank you for all its images

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