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Google Sketchup - Come Along for the Ride

101547 Views 169 Replies 34 Participants Last post by  Tangle
Trying to get back in the swing - new project

OK - so I'm finally getting back to doing things. Small stuff mostly and easy things. So I'm thinking of making a cutting board for my sister-in-law. A board for cutting bread. She makes the best homemade bread!!

Anyway - this is what I'm trying to do.

Photobucket

I'm having trouble getting the colors right. The whole idea of doing a SU picture is to see if what you want to do will look good, etc.

I want to change a couple of the components to a walnut color.

If you try to imagine what I want to do-the first 3" section (on the left) will have cherry on the bottom - walnut on the top.

then comes a maple strip, then a 3/4 strip with walnut on the bottom and cherry on top - then a maple strip - then 3/4 strip with cherry on bottom and walnut on top - then a maple strip then the 3" piece on the right has
walnut on the bottom and cherry on top.

If anyone can help with the coloring I'd appreciate it. I looked in the paint bucket and there are not many wood colors - I'm sure there is a way to import more - but not sure how.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Hall table progress with questions at end

Today, I'm going to put in the aprons and hopefully with the help of my LJ friends the openings for the drawers.

First the aprons. This is what I what I'm going to end up with at the end of this blog session.

Photobucket

Use your zoom tool and pan tool to move the table around so that one of the "short end" legs are showing. (Since I've already managed to get the aprons on, I'm simply going to erase one short apron to demonstrate what I did.)

Select your rectangle tool and move it so that you get the black intersection inference dot to show (in the lower left corner at the "top" of the leg). Move the cursor up to the guide mark and over to the right slightly. Type in 5.5, .75 in the VCB box. This should give you a tall rectangle - not one on it's side.

Use the push/pull tool and pull the rectangle out 9.5". This will give you your short apron. Do the same procedure on the other end. On the front and back do the same procedure but pull out the rectangle to 36".

Photobucket

Now my problem - how to do the front.

Photobucket

drawer for hall table

What technique should I use to make the front? The front as made in the real world is 5 pieces. Top and bottom rails are 1" x 36". There are three stiles. Two stiles on the ends are 2.25×3.5 and the center stile is 3.5×3.5.

I've put in the guide lines.

Photobucket

Now the question should I use the line tool to outline the drawer openings or should I use the rectangle to do so?

I've drawn a separate front and did the lines and did both the line tool and the rectangle tool. I came up with the same result.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Now I've gone back to my model and drawn the lines and then used the rectangle tool. Doing this brings up the blue "face" of the drawer openings.

Photobucket

I've tried to use the push pull tool to push the openings and it does not go all the way out. From under the table you can see what I'm talking about.

Photobucket

I can get one drawer opening to push all the way to be an actual opening but the other I can't get to do the same.

So how would you do the front of this table?

Thanks in advance.
That's amazing how you did that. I'm going to get this yet.
Hall table progress with questions at end

Today, I'm going to put in the aprons and hopefully with the help of my LJ friends the openings for the drawers.

First the aprons. This is what I what I'm going to end up with at the end of this blog session.

Photobucket

Use your zoom tool and pan tool to move the table around so that one of the "short end" legs are showing. (Since I've already managed to get the aprons on, I'm simply going to erase one short apron to demonstrate what I did.)

Select your rectangle tool and move it so that you get the black intersection inference dot to show (in the lower left corner at the "top" of the leg). Move the cursor up to the guide mark and over to the right slightly. Type in 5.5, .75 in the VCB box. This should give you a tall rectangle - not one on it's side.

Use the push/pull tool and pull the rectangle out 9.5". This will give you your short apron. Do the same procedure on the other end. On the front and back do the same procedure but pull out the rectangle to 36".

Photobucket

Now my problem - how to do the front.

Photobucket

drawer for hall table

What technique should I use to make the front? The front as made in the real world is 5 pieces. Top and bottom rails are 1" x 36". There are three stiles. Two stiles on the ends are 2.25×3.5 and the center stile is 3.5×3.5.

I've put in the guide lines.

Photobucket

Now the question should I use the line tool to outline the drawer openings or should I use the rectangle to do so?

I've drawn a separate front and did the lines and did both the line tool and the rectangle tool. I came up with the same result.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Now I've gone back to my model and drawn the lines and then used the rectangle tool. Doing this brings up the blue "face" of the drawer openings.

Photobucket

I've tried to use the push pull tool to push the openings and it does not go all the way out. From under the table you can see what I'm talking about.

Photobucket

I can get one drawer opening to push all the way to be an actual opening but the other I can't get to do the same.

So how would you do the front of this table?

Thanks in advance.
Dude…what are all those cool looking icons? Rubys? Hook me up wit dat!
2
Hall table redo -- just putsing along - and questions, course

OK - so its redo time now I'm just playing a little trying to figure things out.

First off this picture is kind of messed up-not sure why my dimensions did not show correctly. But here it is.

Photobucket

I managed to get my legs spaced correctly at 39" front/back outside to outside and 36" front/back inside to inside measurements; and 12.5 side to side outside and 9.5" inside to inside measurements. The legs measure 28" tall. The mortises are 1/2" deep and centered on the legs. And surprise surprise, I think I've managed to get all four legs on the same plane.

Here's an up close of the mortises.

Photobucket

With all the great help I'm getting from Dave and David (aka Brad-Nailor - by the way-- what's the deal with the name?)-- I am probably (actually almost certainly) missing some of the small points of the instructions. Long and short though some of this stuff is sinking in.

Question - I made my first two legs and made each a separate component (left front leg and left rear leg). Then I copied each one and moved it across - then selected and right clicked to "make unique." Does that make each right leg their own component? The reason I ask is that when you select "make unique" it does not give you the option to give it a new name.

Question Now that I have all four legs made should I make them a group? If so, how?

I'll have to outline my steps making this far in a different blog entry.

I guess the next logical question is I need to make my side and front aprons and insert them into the legs. I am sure I need to make the short aprons (2), back apron and front apron separate components. Once I draw them, how do I insert or move them into the mortises?

OK - that's all I can do for now. I sure hope that my floundering around the program is helping some of my fellow LJs.

By the way-not only do I appreciate all the Sketchup help I'm getting, I really appreciate all the good wishes coming my way while I recover from surgery. All are encouraging.
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Hall table redo -- just putsing along - and questions, course

OK - so its redo time now I'm just playing a little trying to figure things out.

First off this picture is kind of messed up-not sure why my dimensions did not show correctly. But here it is.

Photobucket

I managed to get my legs spaced correctly at 39" front/back outside to outside and 36" front/back inside to inside measurements; and 12.5 side to side outside and 9.5" inside to inside measurements. The legs measure 28" tall. The mortises are 1/2" deep and centered on the legs. And surprise surprise, I think I've managed to get all four legs on the same plane.

Here's an up close of the mortises.

Photobucket

With all the great help I'm getting from Dave and David (aka Brad-Nailor - by the way-- what's the deal with the name?)-- I am probably (actually almost certainly) missing some of the small points of the instructions. Long and short though some of this stuff is sinking in.

Question - I made my first two legs and made each a separate component (left front leg and left rear leg). Then I copied each one and moved it across - then selected and right clicked to "make unique." Does that make each right leg their own component? The reason I ask is that when you select "make unique" it does not give you the option to give it a new name.

Question Now that I have all four legs made should I make them a group? If so, how?

I'll have to outline my steps making this far in a different blog entry.

I guess the next logical question is I need to make my side and front aprons and insert them into the legs. I am sure I need to make the short aprons (2), back apron and front apron separate components. Once I draw them, how do I insert or move them into the mortises?

OK - that's all I can do for now. I sure hope that my floundering around the program is helping some of my fellow LJs.

By the way-not only do I appreciate all the Sketchup help I'm getting, I really appreciate all the good wishes coming my way while I recover from surgery. All are encouraging.
Betsy,

Please take it easy, this is the second entry in less than a day!

Give yourself a chance to relax and recuperate.

We all appreciate what you have given us, but please take care of yourself!

Lew
Hall table redo -- just putsing along - and questions, course

OK - so its redo time now I'm just playing a little trying to figure things out.

First off this picture is kind of messed up-not sure why my dimensions did not show correctly. But here it is.

Photobucket

I managed to get my legs spaced correctly at 39" front/back outside to outside and 36" front/back inside to inside measurements; and 12.5 side to side outside and 9.5" inside to inside measurements. The legs measure 28" tall. The mortises are 1/2" deep and centered on the legs. And surprise surprise, I think I've managed to get all four legs on the same plane.

Here's an up close of the mortises.

Photobucket

With all the great help I'm getting from Dave and David (aka Brad-Nailor - by the way-- what's the deal with the name?)-- I am probably (actually almost certainly) missing some of the small points of the instructions. Long and short though some of this stuff is sinking in.

Question - I made my first two legs and made each a separate component (left front leg and left rear leg). Then I copied each one and moved it across - then selected and right clicked to "make unique." Does that make each right leg their own component? The reason I ask is that when you select "make unique" it does not give you the option to give it a new name.

Question Now that I have all four legs made should I make them a group? If so, how?

I'll have to outline my steps making this far in a different blog entry.

I guess the next logical question is I need to make my side and front aprons and insert them into the legs. I am sure I need to make the short aprons (2), back apron and front apron separate components. Once I draw them, how do I insert or move them into the mortises?

OK - that's all I can do for now. I sure hope that my floundering around the program is helping some of my fellow LJs.

By the way-not only do I appreciate all the Sketchup help I'm getting, I really appreciate all the good wishes coming my way while I recover from surgery. All are encouraging.
Ok…
Question - I made my first two legs and made each a separate component (left front leg and left rear leg). Then I copied each one and moved it across - then selected and right clicked to "make unique." Does that make each right leg their own component?
Yes it does. It doesn't give you the opportunity to rename it at that time, but you can right click it and go into properties, and change the name there.
Question Now that I have all four legs made should I make them a group? If so, how?
I would…then you can move the whole "leg" group all at once. Just select each leg component, then when all 4 are selected right click and make group. You can have components/groups that are components/groups inside components/groups…hold on a minute, that one made me a little dizzy…

I am sure I need to make the short aprons (2), back apron and front apron separate components. Once I draw them, how do I insert or move them into the mortises?
The same way you move anything. Create one side apron with the tenons. Make a copy of it and put that aside for now. make the original a component and name it. Then to move it in place (I am assuming the leg is a component as well) Just grab the upper outside corner of the tenon ( the move tool should snap right to it when you get close and say "endpoint in component") and then move it into place on the leg. Move the tenon into place inside the mortise you cut in the leg component, and using the snap inference, guide the apron tenon so it snaps to the inside corner of the mortise. You could also use the center inferences as well. You should instantly be able to see if you sized everything correctly. Now the other apron you copied and put aside, grab that and triple click on it make it a component and move it into place like the other.
Another cool trick is say your aprons were not centered on the leg. You cant make a copy and just move it to the other side. But what you can do is right click on the copy after you make it a component, and select "flip along" then select green for your axis. That will mirror the piece opposite the original, so it will work on the opposite side without having to re draw it. If your trying to use this feature and your not sure what axis to flip it, just try each one one at a time, but REMEMBER TO UNDO THE FLIP YOU DON'T WANT BEFORE YOU TRY AND FLIP IT ANOTHER WAY!
Good luck!
Oh ya, and the deal with my name is…I just thought that was kinda funny..Brad Nailor…the air nailing gun..but it sounds like a persons name…I am Brad Nailor on Wood Whisperers site also!
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10
My saga continues -- really starting to get some ideas now though

As with any new thing - it's a stop and start learning experience. Yep. Still working on the hall-table-drawing. Getting a lot of great help from Dave and David - thanks guys.

So now I've started again with the legs. I've come a long ways from just a simple rectangle on the ground - but it's a long way from a fancy turning. But that will come in time. (I promise that I won't start from the beginning every single time I blog-- but right now it makes sense to me.)

The table leg is 1.5×1.5×28. Mortises are ½" deep x ¼" wide x 3" long centered on the leg.
The legs on the short side are 12.5" apart from outside to outside.
The legs on the long side are 39" apart from the outside to outside.

Start with the basic rectangle and size as stated above. It's a good idea to check dimensions as you go (unless, of course, you are designing on the go). I'm working of a model so I know my dimensions which makes drawing easier. You can adjust dimensions as you go, but I'm not so good at that yet.

Photobucket

To insert dimensions use the dimension tool (looks like a three sided box with a "3" at the top and slashes through the corners) - click once on a corner or edge then move your mouse to the opposite end click once and move your mouse to the side. You should see something similar to my picture above.

Next make the leg a component. Anytime you are going to make more than one of anything, make it a component.

Select the leg by triple clicking (should be entirely blue) then right-click and chose "make component". Name it whatever you choose - I choose "leg." (very original I know.)

Now the fun starts. Because you've made the leg a component anything you change on the component will be made automatically to all copies of that component.

As in woodworking with the actual wood there are a dozen different ways to do everything. Drawing is the same. You have to be able to see what you are drawing in your mind's eye. It seems like it is a ton easier to draw the mortises on the top of the leg because you don't have to spin the leg around to see each side.

Draw in the guide lines by using the measuring tool. For my purposes, I've drawn lines at 5/8 from each side and in from the inside edge ½".

Then use the rectangle tool to draw in the rectangle and use the push/pull tool to push the rectangle down 3". Do the drawing guides on both edges and draw the rectangle twice. But the nice thing about the push/pull tool is that that second push/pull can be accomplished with a double click. (Provided, of course, that you intend both to be the same.)

Photobucket

Now to copy and then rotate/mirror/scale/flip the second leg. Four terms/methods to do the same job - so you have to find the one that works best for you. I've not managed to get the scale tool to work for me yet. The minus 1 thing escapes me. The rotate tool has had me snagged as well - but I'm getting that by working on this project.

First start by selecting the leg by triple clicking (should be all blue). Then pick the move/copy tool and over the tool over the leg. Hold down the "Control" key at the same time moving the leg/copy to the right. As you slide to the right (or the direction you choose) you should see on the screen a light red dotted line along with "on red axis"

Continue moving to the right - make sure you keep the dotted line and on red axis showing - if that goes away that means that you are not on the same plane as your first leg.

Some other things to keep in mind. When you move the move/copy tool over the leg - if you position the inference dot over the top inside corner so that it says "endpoint" when you stop moving your copy over - if you type in 37.5 in the VCB box then it will automatically move the leg the required 39" outside measurement.

Also, once you start moving the copy - you can release the control key. As for the mouse key, the caveat with the mouse is that you can let go if you are going to type in the dimension you want. If you are going to place the leg precisely where you want it then don't let up on the mouse until you reach your destination.

Photobucket

Photobucket

You'll notice in the above picture that the mortises are in the wrong direction for the right front leg. Not for long!

The easiest thing is to triple click the copy (the new right front leg) until it is all blue then right click and select "flip" "along the red axis." Double check your dimension and it should still be at 39".

Photobucket

To use the scale tool--triple click then select the scale tool (looks like a diamond with a brown corner) - you'll see a parcel of green dots on the leg. Move your cursor over the leg and watch how the dots are connected. That will give you some clues on how this works. Play with it some also. Just remember you can always undo what you don't want to keep by using Edit - undo.

For our purposes on this project - move your cursor over the top middle dot.

Photobucket

Then while holding down the Control key and the left mouse key - move the mouse to the left. Watch the leg turn inside out. Let go of the Control and mouse key and type in -1, 1 on your keypad and hit Enter. Check your dimension. (Now here's a confession-- I can't get this to do it twice. So not sure what I'm doing wrong.) Will have to keep working on it. And on and on.

If you are going to use the Rotate tool to reposition the leg - start again by triple clicking until it's blue, select the rotate tool and hover - After that you're on your own. Still have not got this one figured out.

For now though-- use that flip tool. That worked great!

Photobucket

So now you have the two front legs with the mortises in the right directions and the right distance apart.

Here is something I did not know and, I suppose, is good to know for other computer programs (in my electronically challenged opinion) is that if you select one object and hold down the shift key you can simultaneously select a second object!

With that said, that's what we do next-- select both legs so they are both completely blue.

Then pick up your move/copy tool, hover over one of the two legs and move up along the green axes - if you position the inference dot over the top inside corner so that it says "endpoint" when you stop moving your copy over - if you type in 11.5 in the VCB box then it will automatically move the leg the required 12.5" outside measurement.

Now you have 4 legs - albeit the second set of two with the mortises going in the wrong direction.

Photobucket

Photobucket

OK that's all I can do tonight. Here is where I'm headed. Although, this model has a lot of bugs in it, I'm getting there.

Photobucket
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My saga continues -- really starting to get some ideas now though

As with any new thing - it's a stop and start learning experience. Yep. Still working on the hall-table-drawing. Getting a lot of great help from Dave and David - thanks guys.

So now I've started again with the legs. I've come a long ways from just a simple rectangle on the ground - but it's a long way from a fancy turning. But that will come in time. (I promise that I won't start from the beginning every single time I blog-- but right now it makes sense to me.)

The table leg is 1.5×1.5×28. Mortises are ½" deep x ¼" wide x 3" long centered on the leg.
The legs on the short side are 12.5" apart from outside to outside.
The legs on the long side are 39" apart from the outside to outside.

Start with the basic rectangle and size as stated above. It's a good idea to check dimensions as you go (unless, of course, you are designing on the go). I'm working of a model so I know my dimensions which makes drawing easier. You can adjust dimensions as you go, but I'm not so good at that yet.

Photobucket

To insert dimensions use the dimension tool (looks like a three sided box with a "3" at the top and slashes through the corners) - click once on a corner or edge then move your mouse to the opposite end click once and move your mouse to the side. You should see something similar to my picture above.

Next make the leg a component. Anytime you are going to make more than one of anything, make it a component.

Select the leg by triple clicking (should be entirely blue) then right-click and chose "make component". Name it whatever you choose - I choose "leg." (very original I know.)

Now the fun starts. Because you've made the leg a component anything you change on the component will be made automatically to all copies of that component.

As in woodworking with the actual wood there are a dozen different ways to do everything. Drawing is the same. You have to be able to see what you are drawing in your mind's eye. It seems like it is a ton easier to draw the mortises on the top of the leg because you don't have to spin the leg around to see each side.

Draw in the guide lines by using the measuring tool. For my purposes, I've drawn lines at 5/8 from each side and in from the inside edge ½".

Then use the rectangle tool to draw in the rectangle and use the push/pull tool to push the rectangle down 3". Do the drawing guides on both edges and draw the rectangle twice. But the nice thing about the push/pull tool is that that second push/pull can be accomplished with a double click. (Provided, of course, that you intend both to be the same.)

Photobucket

Now to copy and then rotate/mirror/scale/flip the second leg. Four terms/methods to do the same job - so you have to find the one that works best for you. I've not managed to get the scale tool to work for me yet. The minus 1 thing escapes me. The rotate tool has had me snagged as well - but I'm getting that by working on this project.

First start by selecting the leg by triple clicking (should be all blue). Then pick the move/copy tool and over the tool over the leg. Hold down the "Control" key at the same time moving the leg/copy to the right. As you slide to the right (or the direction you choose) you should see on the screen a light red dotted line along with "on red axis"

Continue moving to the right - make sure you keep the dotted line and on red axis showing - if that goes away that means that you are not on the same plane as your first leg.

Some other things to keep in mind. When you move the move/copy tool over the leg - if you position the inference dot over the top inside corner so that it says "endpoint" when you stop moving your copy over - if you type in 37.5 in the VCB box then it will automatically move the leg the required 39" outside measurement.

Also, once you start moving the copy - you can release the control key. As for the mouse key, the caveat with the mouse is that you can let go if you are going to type in the dimension you want. If you are going to place the leg precisely where you want it then don't let up on the mouse until you reach your destination.

Photobucket

Photobucket

You'll notice in the above picture that the mortises are in the wrong direction for the right front leg. Not for long!

The easiest thing is to triple click the copy (the new right front leg) until it is all blue then right click and select "flip" "along the red axis." Double check your dimension and it should still be at 39".

Photobucket

To use the scale tool--triple click then select the scale tool (looks like a diamond with a brown corner) - you'll see a parcel of green dots on the leg. Move your cursor over the leg and watch how the dots are connected. That will give you some clues on how this works. Play with it some also. Just remember you can always undo what you don't want to keep by using Edit - undo.

For our purposes on this project - move your cursor over the top middle dot.

Photobucket

Then while holding down the Control key and the left mouse key - move the mouse to the left. Watch the leg turn inside out. Let go of the Control and mouse key and type in -1, 1 on your keypad and hit Enter. Check your dimension. (Now here's a confession-- I can't get this to do it twice. So not sure what I'm doing wrong.) Will have to keep working on it. And on and on.

If you are going to use the Rotate tool to reposition the leg - start again by triple clicking until it's blue, select the rotate tool and hover - After that you're on your own. Still have not got this one figured out.

For now though-- use that flip tool. That worked great!

Photobucket

So now you have the two front legs with the mortises in the right directions and the right distance apart.

Here is something I did not know and, I suppose, is good to know for other computer programs (in my electronically challenged opinion) is that if you select one object and hold down the shift key you can simultaneously select a second object!

With that said, that's what we do next-- select both legs so they are both completely blue.

Then pick up your move/copy tool, hover over one of the two legs and move up along the green axes - if you position the inference dot over the top inside corner so that it says "endpoint" when you stop moving your copy over - if you type in 11.5 in the VCB box then it will automatically move the leg the required 12.5" outside measurement.

Now you have 4 legs - albeit the second set of two with the mortises going in the wrong direction.

Photobucket

Photobucket

OK that's all I can do tonight. Here is where I'm headed. Although, this model has a lot of bugs in it, I'm getting there.

Photobucket
Looking good Betsy! Thats a cool thing about SU…I love how things come to life when you start playing with textures. I like the flip function..it's an easy way to mirror parts. What is it about the rotate tool you don't understand? Your first click is to anchor the protractor..that will be the axis the piece will rotate on. Then the next click you are kinda making a handle to grab to move the piece. Then just rotate the leg till its in the direction you want and click for a third time. Use the inferences to make sure your rotating at right angles.
My saga continues -- really starting to get some ideas now though

As with any new thing - it's a stop and start learning experience. Yep. Still working on the hall-table-drawing. Getting a lot of great help from Dave and David - thanks guys.

So now I've started again with the legs. I've come a long ways from just a simple rectangle on the ground - but it's a long way from a fancy turning. But that will come in time. (I promise that I won't start from the beginning every single time I blog-- but right now it makes sense to me.)

The table leg is 1.5×1.5×28. Mortises are ½" deep x ¼" wide x 3" long centered on the leg.
The legs on the short side are 12.5" apart from outside to outside.
The legs on the long side are 39" apart from the outside to outside.

Start with the basic rectangle and size as stated above. It's a good idea to check dimensions as you go (unless, of course, you are designing on the go). I'm working of a model so I know my dimensions which makes drawing easier. You can adjust dimensions as you go, but I'm not so good at that yet.

Photobucket

To insert dimensions use the dimension tool (looks like a three sided box with a "3" at the top and slashes through the corners) - click once on a corner or edge then move your mouse to the opposite end click once and move your mouse to the side. You should see something similar to my picture above.

Next make the leg a component. Anytime you are going to make more than one of anything, make it a component.

Select the leg by triple clicking (should be entirely blue) then right-click and chose "make component". Name it whatever you choose - I choose "leg." (very original I know.)

Now the fun starts. Because you've made the leg a component anything you change on the component will be made automatically to all copies of that component.

As in woodworking with the actual wood there are a dozen different ways to do everything. Drawing is the same. You have to be able to see what you are drawing in your mind's eye. It seems like it is a ton easier to draw the mortises on the top of the leg because you don't have to spin the leg around to see each side.

Draw in the guide lines by using the measuring tool. For my purposes, I've drawn lines at 5/8 from each side and in from the inside edge ½".

Then use the rectangle tool to draw in the rectangle and use the push/pull tool to push the rectangle down 3". Do the drawing guides on both edges and draw the rectangle twice. But the nice thing about the push/pull tool is that that second push/pull can be accomplished with a double click. (Provided, of course, that you intend both to be the same.)

Photobucket

Now to copy and then rotate/mirror/scale/flip the second leg. Four terms/methods to do the same job - so you have to find the one that works best for you. I've not managed to get the scale tool to work for me yet. The minus 1 thing escapes me. The rotate tool has had me snagged as well - but I'm getting that by working on this project.

First start by selecting the leg by triple clicking (should be all blue). Then pick the move/copy tool and over the tool over the leg. Hold down the "Control" key at the same time moving the leg/copy to the right. As you slide to the right (or the direction you choose) you should see on the screen a light red dotted line along with "on red axis"

Continue moving to the right - make sure you keep the dotted line and on red axis showing - if that goes away that means that you are not on the same plane as your first leg.

Some other things to keep in mind. When you move the move/copy tool over the leg - if you position the inference dot over the top inside corner so that it says "endpoint" when you stop moving your copy over - if you type in 37.5 in the VCB box then it will automatically move the leg the required 39" outside measurement.

Also, once you start moving the copy - you can release the control key. As for the mouse key, the caveat with the mouse is that you can let go if you are going to type in the dimension you want. If you are going to place the leg precisely where you want it then don't let up on the mouse until you reach your destination.

Photobucket

Photobucket

You'll notice in the above picture that the mortises are in the wrong direction for the right front leg. Not for long!

The easiest thing is to triple click the copy (the new right front leg) until it is all blue then right click and select "flip" "along the red axis." Double check your dimension and it should still be at 39".

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To use the scale tool--triple click then select the scale tool (looks like a diamond with a brown corner) - you'll see a parcel of green dots on the leg. Move your cursor over the leg and watch how the dots are connected. That will give you some clues on how this works. Play with it some also. Just remember you can always undo what you don't want to keep by using Edit - undo.

For our purposes on this project - move your cursor over the top middle dot.

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Then while holding down the Control key and the left mouse key - move the mouse to the left. Watch the leg turn inside out. Let go of the Control and mouse key and type in -1, 1 on your keypad and hit Enter. Check your dimension. (Now here's a confession-- I can't get this to do it twice. So not sure what I'm doing wrong.) Will have to keep working on it. And on and on.

If you are going to use the Rotate tool to reposition the leg - start again by triple clicking until it's blue, select the rotate tool and hover - After that you're on your own. Still have not got this one figured out.

For now though-- use that flip tool. That worked great!

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So now you have the two front legs with the mortises in the right directions and the right distance apart.

Here is something I did not know and, I suppose, is good to know for other computer programs (in my electronically challenged opinion) is that if you select one object and hold down the shift key you can simultaneously select a second object!

With that said, that's what we do next-- select both legs so they are both completely blue.

Then pick up your move/copy tool, hover over one of the two legs and move up along the green axes - if you position the inference dot over the top inside corner so that it says "endpoint" when you stop moving your copy over - if you type in 11.5 in the VCB box then it will automatically move the leg the required 12.5" outside measurement.

Now you have 4 legs - albeit the second set of two with the mortises going in the wrong direction.

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OK that's all I can do tonight. Here is where I'm headed. Although, this model has a lot of bugs in it, I'm getting there.

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Thanks Dave and David. I'll work on this later tonight. And post more.
Hall table - drawers -- not a good start

I was not going to do any more on this project tonight-- but could not sleep. So I piddled with the drawers for the hall table. They are not pretty. The box resembles and box joint box-but that's about it. I still have to work out how to to interface with other parts. But that will come. For now this is the box I'm working with to make a drawer for my table. I am using 3/4" material here, but will switch to 1/2 material on the real project drawers.

So without further ado-- here is my masterpiece. :)

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Geez you guys have no idea how badly I want to be making sawdust and nicking my fingers with my chisels or even smelling the sweet smell of freshly jointed wood. But alas I must work on design and play with this computer until about mid-September at the earliest as it stands now.

So fellas-make some dust for me and appreciate it!

Thanks
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Hall table - drawers -- not a good start

I was not going to do any more on this project tonight-- but could not sleep. So I piddled with the drawers for the hall table. They are not pretty. The box resembles and box joint box-but that's about it. I still have to work out how to to interface with other parts. But that will come. For now this is the box I'm working with to make a drawer for my table. I am using 3/4" material here, but will switch to 1/2 material on the real project drawers.

So without further ado-- here is my masterpiece. :)

Photobucket

Geez you guys have no idea how badly I want to be making sawdust and nicking my fingers with my chisels or even smelling the sweet smell of freshly jointed wood. But alas I must work on design and play with this computer until about mid-September at the earliest as it stands now.

So fellas-make some dust for me and appreciate it!

Thanks
Betsy,

If it is any consolation, we all really appreciate how hard you have been working on teaching us this software. I, for one, would have given up long ago (and have given up several times in the past). Your persistence has given me w new will to learn.

Thank You

BTW, what screen capture program did you settle on? I noticed it in the blog you posted earlier today.

Lew
Hall table - drawers -- not a good start

I was not going to do any more on this project tonight-- but could not sleep. So I piddled with the drawers for the hall table. They are not pretty. The box resembles and box joint box-but that's about it. I still have to work out how to to interface with other parts. But that will come. For now this is the box I'm working with to make a drawer for my table. I am using 3/4" material here, but will switch to 1/2 material on the real project drawers.

So without further ado-- here is my masterpiece. :)

Photobucket

Geez you guys have no idea how badly I want to be making sawdust and nicking my fingers with my chisels or even smelling the sweet smell of freshly jointed wood. But alas I must work on design and play with this computer until about mid-September at the earliest as it stands now.

So fellas-make some dust for me and appreciate it!

Thanks
Thanks Dave. I'll try this a bit later tonight.

Lew - I went with Gadwin Printsceen. It seems to work well. Thanks for the link.
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

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Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
See less See more
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
Hi Betsy, Watch this video. In particular, watch the lower right hand corner of the screen. That is where I am typing in the dimensions. I almost never use the mouse to drag boxes to the correct dimensions. It is just too cumbersome. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help.

http://blip.tv/play/AceabQA
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
The video is of much better quality at blip plus I am having trouble embedding the link. Here is the link.

http://blip.tv/file/1160443/

I'll try to fix the embedded one.
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
Sorry for all my experimenting. This one is of high quality if you are running Windows. But it might take a few to download ;)

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Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
Thanks guys!

Dave - I had to scale back a bit on computer time. Looking at the screen was hurting my neck a bit. I tried several different set ups and nothing seems to work very well. So will have to limit my computer time until after I get the neck brace off (another 4-5 weeks).

"So you say the drawer front comes out too short. How much too short? Exactly an inch.

Where? Along the length

Is it a height issue or a length issue? Length

Is it possible you didn't get the rectangle started or finished on an outside corner? I don't think so, I had the inference dot showing and it looks just like what Scott showed in his video.

Is it possible that when you moved the copy of the side that you didn't move it parallel to the red axis? I'm positive I had it on axis-have been watching that little red line.

Could you set up the drawing right up to just before the Push/Pull on the front and send it to me so I can see? - I'll try to send soon.

Scott - the video is way cool. All this technology stuff you guys give back amazes me. Makes me want to learn more computer stuff - I'm not sure I've seen blip tv before (or at least I've not noticed). The Windows version worked better for me.

Thanks for your help. I'll work some more on this later tonight and let you know my progress.

Scott - by the way, I have been struggling with that rotate tool - your video was an "ah hah" moment!

Thanks again - you guys are awesome!
See less See more
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
Thanks Dave and Betsy,

Glad to be along for the ride.
4
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
I'm absolutely not sure what I did differently this time around from the first - but here are some shots.

The first shot just shows that the front rectangle is sized onto two sides

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Next is just showing that I made the front a component.

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Next the component is push/pulled to 1/2".

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And finally - copied and moved to the other end to close up the box.

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Now the only problem-I know I'm having lots of problems learning this-- is, even though I thought I checked my dimensions - my side is shy of 10.25" that I want. How do I resize without deleting the side and redrawing?

That's all I can do tonight. Thanks for all your help.
See less See more
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
I second everything the other Dave just said. You want to try and build your pieces in the orientation you want them in. If I was going to build a leg for instance I would make a box the size of the outer dimensions, and then extrude it up or down with the push pull tool. Same with the aprons or box sides. Then when you make them components everything will be correct axis wise. The flip along command is cool, but there are are also ruby scripts out there that will mirror objects for you (I think the next version of SU should have a mirror command). What Dave is demonstrating above is something like I was saying a few posts ago…little details that you don't pay attention to in the beginning will come back and bite you in the butt later on !
Drawer sides -- struggling along

It's been a few days since I've worked on this-- and won't be doing much today, but I'm working on the drawer for the hall table.

This is how I've redrawn it.

The sides are 1/2" x. 10.25" x 3.5"

Drew the first side to above dimensions and then made it into a component.

Photobucket

Then moved the side to 13 7/8" (outside to outside) and then flipped along red axis.

(Because this is a basic rectangle - flipping it won't look like it's done much.)

Next I drew a rectangle from the upper left outside corner to lower right outside corner of the two sides to make the drawer front.

The push/pulled the rectangle to make the front.

Now the first problem. (Actually - this is the second issue - I can't get all my screen shots to work). When I push pull the front - it comes out "short" to the length that I need it.

Until I can get the front to be the right length - I can't actually drawer in my box joints and/or interface.

Any help would be appreciated.

That's all I can do today.

Thanks
David - you are so right about those little details coming back to bite you! All this repetition will eventually get those little details into my little head. I really appreciate all the fine help and tips I'm getting.

Dave - Your video is just the ticket (a very small Thomas the Tank Engine joke!). I was trying to size the box by copying/moving and then typing in the dimensions. You're way is much easier. I think David mentioned the same thing but it didn't register until I saw it in the video. I'm going to do the guide lines now. And the push/pull on the drawer front-- I pulled instead of pushed - that was a biggie right there. Doing the push instead of the pull eliminates doing the move/intersect.

The other biggie you showed was the "asterick" to put in the copies of the guide lines. That's slick.

I'll work on my drawer and repost it later tonight. Right now, I've got to rest a while though. We have a huge concert at church tonight that I want to go to, so I need to rest up. Looking forward to getting out of the house. Haven't been to church in three weeks and so I'm really looking forward to going.

Thanks again for all the tremendous help. Hopefully, my slugging along at this is helping others learn the program as well.

One thing for sure that I'm getting the big picture on is that, just like woodworking, there are a lot of ways to do a drawing, but the devil is in the details.
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