Is it quartersawn? Are you able to take pictures of it?
Good deal on oak? How much do I need?
I found an ad for about 140 bf of white oak for $1.95/ bf. Is this a good deal?
I am getting ready to embark on a project of building a kids table and chairs. I'm still designing in my head and looking at styles of chairs, so nothing is on paper yet. I'm thinking the top will be 30 in x 45 in; the plan is also to make 6 chairs.
Is white oak a good choice for wood?
Approximately how much wood should I need (6 kid chairs and 30×45 table)?
I'm thinking this is more than twice the wood I will need, but don't mind getting it all for use on future projects if this is a good deal. The add says: "Planed hit or miss. This wood may have some checks, splits, or crook, 5/4 thickness, 5.75 in avg width, and 4 ft length."
What do ya'll think?
I am getting ready to embark on a project of building a kids table and chairs. I'm still designing in my head and looking at styles of chairs, so nothing is on paper yet. I'm thinking the top will be 30 in x 45 in; the plan is also to make 6 chairs.
Is white oak a good choice for wood?
Approximately how much wood should I need (6 kid chairs and 30×45 table)?
I'm thinking this is more than twice the wood I will need, but don't mind getting it all for use on future projects if this is a good deal. The add says: "Planed hit or miss. This wood may have some checks, splits, or crook, 5/4 thickness, 5.75 in avg width, and 4 ft length."
What do ya'll think?
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
I've seen some punk white oak and some great white oak. The price is ok if the wood is dried. *I want to get it for 1.00 BD ft if it's still grean and I have to dry it.
The price is reasonable alright. Especially, as Karson says, it's dry. And, yes, white oak is good wood, quarter sawn or otherwise. But, you should see it and see how much of it is actually usable because what you cannot use increases your price per board foot. If only half is worth using, then your actual price shoots to almost $4 a foot which is a bit steep in my neck of the woods.
I haven't seen it, it's about 60 miles away. I just saw the ad and am waiting to hear back from the seller. What should I look for to determine if the wood is usable. I've pretty much only worked with pine dimensional lumber, I've never dealt with rough sawn lumber, so this is a first for me. I've never bought wood anywhere except the big blue and orange stores.
Please show me the way.
Please show me the way.
My first dive into roughsawn wood was with 500 bf of white oak that I bought on fleabay for 80 cents a foot. It was 1 common, 4/4, random width and all 10'. That price isn't bad as long as it is a decent grade, AND hasn't been dried too fast. White oak that has been kiln dried too fast will have an unbelievably high amount of tension in it when ripping it.
The ad says it is prime grade, but that doesn't mean it is.
Here is a link to the ad with a picture.
http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mat/1260930580.html
Here is a link to the ad with a picture.
http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mat/1260930580.html
From the looks of the pic, it appears to be mainly clear which is a plus. As someone else said, the 4' lengths will probably result in a lot of waste. It also says best offer - I'd offer less for sure. What would be your bf cost from a portable milll service, or lumber yard?
From the local mill, oak is 3.45/ bf; I think squared on on side and not planed. I initially wanted to use cherry because my wife likes furniture stained dark brownish red, and all of our furniture is finished like that. So whatever I build will also be finished that way. Today I saw this ad for cherry. How does it look.
http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mat/1262968213.html
Is cherry a good option for looks and durability for a kids table and chairs and bunk beds. My hope is to build these items for my kids then my grandchildren when use them as well.
How much would I need for six chairs and a 30×45 in table? About 75 bf plus a little more for waste?
http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mat/1262968213.html
Is cherry a good option for looks and durability for a kids table and chairs and bunk beds. My hope is to build these items for my kids then my grandchildren when use them as well.
How much would I need for six chairs and a 30×45 in table? About 75 bf plus a little more for waste?
thats actually not cherry. its jatoba which is sometimes called brazilian cherry
Correction
The local mill has 4/4 red oak two sides planed and a third squared ( is this S2S) for $3.45/bf. I think this maybe the better route as I don't have a planer, although I want to purchase one. So it will be quicker and easier to complete the project, which will be my first piece of furniture for the house. But it sounds like I'm passing up a good deal on the white oak. What would you do?
The local mill has 4/4 red oak two sides planed and a third squared ( is this S2S) for $3.45/bf. I think this maybe the better route as I don't have a planer, although I want to purchase one. So it will be quicker and easier to complete the project, which will be my first piece of furniture for the house. But it sounds like I'm passing up a good deal on the white oak. What would you do?
It's time to put my 2 cents in. First of all…great advice from all. Second…I think you have to decide what you want to do with that…then see if it is a good deal.
I have usually found that non dimensional is great for a project that has alot of exposed area….but there is a cost…and that is your processing time. But, for this time you get a much better material to work with…and much easier to get good fitting pieces.
Also, as said above, you have to take in to account the waste ratio. I have seen some up to 75% and then that $1.00 a b.f. stinks. Simple math makes the price for b.f. go up for the waste.
Now if you don't have at least a planer…forget it for now…or if one is in your budget…it might be a good time to get one. Ive seen the steel city planer on sale at around $499 or so and that isn't a bad deal…there are cheaper ones….but be careful as sometimes you get what you pay for…i.e. tables that don't line up…cutters that are too brittle and break…etc. Also, it would be a good thing to have a jointer to square off the sides and such…of course there is a debate about which tool is more useful…I kind of lean toward a jonter or a combo…planer/jointer.
Anyway thats my 2 cents…
I have usually found that non dimensional is great for a project that has alot of exposed area….but there is a cost…and that is your processing time. But, for this time you get a much better material to work with…and much easier to get good fitting pieces.
Also, as said above, you have to take in to account the waste ratio. I have seen some up to 75% and then that $1.00 a b.f. stinks. Simple math makes the price for b.f. go up for the waste.
Now if you don't have at least a planer…forget it for now…or if one is in your budget…it might be a good time to get one. Ive seen the steel city planer on sale at around $499 or so and that isn't a bad deal…there are cheaper ones….but be careful as sometimes you get what you pay for…i.e. tables that don't line up…cutters that are too brittle and break…etc. Also, it would be a good thing to have a jointer to square off the sides and such…of course there is a debate about which tool is more useful…I kind of lean toward a jonter or a combo…planer/jointer.
Anyway thats my 2 cents…
yeah if you dont have a planer or you are not well versed in using hand planes i think you are pretty much stuck with buying S4S material at a much higher price point. like reggie said if you are planning on building anymore furniture in the future you will be better off getting a planer so you can use rough wood like the stuff you posted
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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