[ras61]

I'm making a gear shift knob for an old TR6 sports car from a blank of Canarywood. It's coming out well, but I need some finish advice

I want a smooth high gloss finish, and something that will hold up well. Would a can of spray lacquer be a good choice? Something else/better?

Thanks!

 

[Phil32]

After smoothing and sealing the knob, dip it in a can of glossy polyurethane.

 

[John Smith_inFL]

as you know, Canarywood is quite porous. It would probably be best to seal all that up prior to anything else.

 

[RCCinNC]

My dream car…but as a poor shade tree mechanic, not my personal best choice… ; )
I’m hardly a finishing guru…but if it were my car, which unfortunately it is not, I’d go with the lacquer…multiple coats, and mount it on my drill press for final sanding and polishing. Should come out looking sweet…and be a wonderful addition to your car. Post photos!

 

[ras61]

My dream car…but as a poor shade tree mechanic, not my personal best choice… ; )
I’m hardly a finishing guru…but if it were my car, which unfortunately it is not, I’d go with the lacquer…multiple coats, and mount it on my drill press for final sanding and polishing. Should come out looking sweet…and be a wonderful addition to your car. Post photos!

Funny, I'm shaping it on a drill press. Don't own a lathe, but quickly found you don't need one, shaped it up just fine in less than two hours with just sandpaper. I picked Canarywood because off the shelf walnut shift knobs are too dark and don't match my wood dash. They're also bland with no figured, the Canary has some nice darker contrasting lines. Will definitely post some pics when done

 

[ras61]

as you know, Canarywood is quite porous. It would probably be best to seal all that up prior to anything else.

What would you recommend to seal before the final finish?

 

[John Smith_inFL]

A lot of wood turners use CA (Super Glue) and rub it in while it is spinning slow on the lathe (or drill press) and force it into the pores. I've done it a few times myself with good results. (be careful as you can quickly glue your hand to the wood)

On a side note: The one-and-only time I've ridden in a "TR" was when I was stationed in Key West, FL with the Navy. I was hitch-hiking home to Orlando and I caught a ride late in the evening just south of Miami with a young guy in a TR. in 1968ish it must have been like a TR4 maybe. Anyway, it was getting dark and any ride will do. It started raining so we had to put the top up. I had a full seabag in my lap. The clips that held the top down didn't work so we each had to hold it down. Rain was pouring in through the gap and down our arms. Only the passenger side wiper worked so I was the lookout for trouble. We stopped at a truck stop North of Miami and that was the end of my ride and the ONLY time I've been in a Triumph. Oh, I think it is a really cool looking car - - - - but, that one ride did me in.
When you get all the wood trim fixed, please come share it with us. I've always been very fond of real wood in the vintage cars.

 

[ras61]

A lot of wood turners use CA (Super Glue) and rub it in while it is spinning slow on the lathe (or drill press) and force it into the pores. I've done it a few times myself with good results. (be careful as you can quickly glue your hand to the wood)

On a side note: The one-and-only time I've ridden in a "TR" was when I was stationed in Key West, FL with the Navy. I was hitch-hiking home to Orlando and I caught a ride late in the evening just south of Miami with a young guy in a TR. in 1968ish it must have been like a TR4 maybe. Anyway, it was getting dark and any ride will do. It started raining so we had to put the top up. I had a full seabag in my lap. The clips that held the top down didn't work so we each had to hold it down. Rain was pouring in through the gap and down our arms. Only the passenger side wiper worked so I was the lookout for trouble. We stopped at a truck stop North of Miami and that was the end of my ride and the ONLY time I've been in a Triumph. Oh, I think it is a really cool looking car - - - - but, that one ride did me in.
When you get all the wood trim fixed, please come share it with us. I've always been very fond of real wood in the vintage cars.

Yeah, that sounds about right! Mine is only for rides on nice Sundays, but in the 70's my brother depended upon them for daily transportation, and if you think they're bad in the rain in S Florida, try riding along, or more appropriately "sliding" along, in freezing rain in the NE with a heater the equal of a pocket warmer -

 

[LeeRoyMan]

On a side note: The one-and-only time I've ridden in a "TR" was when I was stationed in Key West, FL with the Navy. I was hitch-hiking home to Orlando and I caught a ride late in the evening just south of Miami with a young guy in a TR. in 1968ish it must have been like a TR4 maybe. Anyway, it was getting dark and any ride will do. It started raining so we had to put the top up. I had a full seabag in my lap. The clips that held the top down didn't work so we each had to hold it down. Rain was pouring in through the gap and down our arms. Only the passenger side wiper worked so I was the lookout for trouble. We stopped at a truck stop North of Miami and that was the end of my ride and the ONLY time I've been in a Triumph. Oh, I think it is a really cool looking car - - - - but, that one ride did me in.
When you get all the wood trim fixed, please come share it with us. I've always been very fond of real wood in the vintage cars.

Not Necessary, as I've been told, it's best to stick to the topic

 

[ras61]

Here's a pic of the cockpit. I love wood so swapped out the black leather steering wheel for a wood one. I think the Canarywood will complement the wheel and the dash which is a medium shade, will have to wait and see

 

[crmitchell]

A lot of wood turners use CA (Super Glue) and rub it in while it is spinning slow on the lathe (or drill press) and force it into the pores. I've done it a few times myself with good results. (be careful as you can quickly glue your hand to the wood)

On a side note: The one-and-only time I've ridden in a "TR" was when I was stationed in Key West, FL with the Navy. I was hitch-hiking home to Orlando and I caught a ride late in the evening just south of Miami with a young guy in a TR. in 1968ish it must have been like a TR4 maybe. Anyway, it was getting dark and any ride will do. It started raining so we had to put the top up. I had a full seabag in my lap. The clips that held the top down didn't work so we each had to hold it down. Rain was pouring in through the gap and down our arms. Only the passenger side wiper worked so I was the lookout for trouble. We stopped at a truck stop North of Miami and that was the end of my ride and the ONLY time I've been in a Triumph. Oh, I think it is a really cool looking car - - - - but, that one ride did me in.
When you get all the wood trim fixed, please come share it with us. I've always been very fond of real wood in the vintage cars.

Agree with John 100%. CA makes a very hard, clear and durable finish. I have used it for a number of items like yours.

A caution and a couple of suggestions:

1. Use ventilation and don't breathe much of the fumes, as they are irritating. Naturally, use gloves!

2. Use the thin version CA. It goes on much smoother and is intended for this use. At Rockler its called "Stick Fast CA Thin."

3. Pick up a can of the CA accelerator spray. A tiny squirt, and tiny is all that is needed, cures the CA instantly. You can get many coats in a short time. Sand between coats and polish as you like. It can take a very high gloss if you want to go that direction. I have been successful with auto polishing compound, as well as other stuff. You will be very surprised at how easily it polishes.

 

[mobley45]

I'm making a gear shift knob for an old TR6 sports car from a blank of Canarywood. It's coming out well, but I need some finish advice

I want a smooth high gloss finish, and something that will hold up well. Would a can of spray lacquer be a good choice? Something else/better?

Thanks!

I used DEFT exclusively for about 35-40 years. On the larger areas and exotics woods woul get the spider Webb cracks after couple years. Especially where I would set coffee or worse a cold glass which would soak a coaster .
I started spraying with auto clear coat. $17 per qt at the auto discounts . Will never look back on that one . Builds nicer thicker coat , pretty much bullet proof .

 

[ras61]

Agree with John 100%. CA makes a very hard, clear and durable finish. I have used it for a number of items like yours.

A caution and a couple of suggestions:

1. Use ventilation and don't breathe much of the fumes, as they are irritating. Naturally, use gloves!

2. Use the thin version CA. It goes on much smoother and is intended for this use. At Rockler its called "Stick Fast CA Thin."

3. Pick up a can of the CA accelerator spray. A tiny squirt, and tiny is all that is needed, cures the CA instantly. You can get many coats in a short time. Sand between coats and polish as you like. It can take a very high gloss if you want to go that direction. I have been successful with auto polishing compound, as well as other stuff. You will be very surprised at how easily it polishes.

How does CA effect the finish, a neutral or amber tint?

 

[Lazyman]

I seem to recall reading that nitrocellulose lacquer, which I believe is what most rattle can lacquers are, may yellow pretty significantly with UV exposure. A precat lacquer may not yellow as badly? CA gives a nice clear finish which does not seem to yellow with normal use. I used CA finish on this shift nob but since I gave it away, I cannot tell you how well it will hold up to the heat and UV in a car.

 

[ras61]

View attachment 3871070 View attachment 3871071 I used DEFT exclusively for about 35-40 years. On the larger areas and exotics woods woul get the spider Webb cracks after couple years. Especially where I would set coffee or worse a cold glass which would soak a coaster .
I started spraying with auto clear coat. $17 per qt at the auto discounts . Will never look back on that one . Builds nicer thicker coat , pretty much bullet proof .

Would clear coat in a rattle can be good? I could set up an airbrush, but a ready to go rattle can would be much simpler for something this small

 

[crmitchell]

How does CA effect the finish, a neutral or amber tint?

It is perfectly clear, and as far as I have seen, does not yellow.

 

[John Smith_inFL]

with the limited options available to us hobbyists, you are not going to find a "one time and done" finish for something that will be handled with sweaty, oily hands on a regular basis. Just be prepared that "when" it needs maintenance and refreshed, just take it off and do the required maintenance and put it back on. (one, two or four years from now). Don't over think it.

 

[ras61]

with the limited options available to us hobbyists, you are not going to find a "one time and done" finish for something that will be handled with sweaty, oily hands on a regular basis. Just be prepared that "when" it needs maintenance and refreshed, just take it off and do the required maintenance and put it back on. (one, two or four years from now). Don't over think it.

Yes, may ways to skin the cat, but think it's good to consider all the options. One thing I'm thinking about, especially if using poly as the finish, is sealing the wood with a coat and then fine sanding any raised grain. I'm thinking the amber tint of an oil Poly may be the color I'm looking for, any reason to not do this and seal with CA instead?

 

[builtinbkyn]

Boiled linseed oil and CA make a nice hard, shiny finish. You need to use BLO as a lubricant or the CA will just make a mess of things. The BLO will also add some warmth to the finish. This finish is used on turned pens because it allows the wood to really shine and it's durable. It dries fast and can be sanded to an ultrafiune finish - like 12k grit oir higher. Lots of info around the net on how to go about it. I've used it on quite a few pens. If I were doing a shift knob, this is what I'd use.

 

[halfacre]

For the best gloss you can possibly get, after you have applied enough coats of clear, let dry a few days then 2 part exoxy is the best possible top coat that will out shine and out last anything else no matter who says what...You can do this to the shifter thingy and you'll be much happier. Just make sure you are buying gloss.