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Gable Box Build

31498 Views 29 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Blake
14
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
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First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
I think it'll give the box a very cool look, but may not be easy to get done. since you already cut the top this might make it even more challenging. I would say use a hand rabbet plane, but with the top cut out already this may be tricky.

I would probably resort to scoring the lines with a marking gauge, then chisel the extra off carefully.
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
You're already out of my league with this project, so I'll just say I can't wait to see the finished product. Looks great so far!
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
This is a very cool Idea Patron I'm sure could help
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Cool shape! You can set up a guide fence on your router table only as tall as the rabbet you want to cut. If you cut the vertical edges first, the fence should clear the corners when you do the gables (I think).
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Steve: Take a look at Steward-MacDonald in some of their guitar tools.

I have the Precision Router Base and they have a binding router guide that fits a dremel tool. I've got a Foredom tool that I use with the precision Router base.

Here is their web site for the tool section.

When I bought the Router Base. I bought the kit which includes the bearing attachment for cutting the corners etc.
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
SOOOOOOOOOOOO cool. I would have never figured out the complex angles on my own. Awesome job. And as for your question, the form speaks for itself. It doesn't need much else.
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
I've done some of this type of work before, its not easy is it?

Personally I don't think you need the trim. If it were just on the ends of the gables the tops of the gables would look bare. If you did those as well then the gulleys look under-dressed and thats a whole new ball game.

I know I'm known for contrasting colours but would veneering all the sides the same but alternate light/dark for the gable tops lift its impact?

Hmm, I seem to be posing more questions than answers here. All the same an interesting technical challenge, Steve.

Excellent blog though. I may be tempted back to this style of box work, yet.

Martyn
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
I've done some of this type of work before, its not easy is it?

Personally I don't think you need the trim. If it were just on the ends of the gables the tops of the gables would look bare. If you did those as well then the gulleys look under-dressed and thats a whole new ball game.

I know I'm known for contrasting colours but would veneering all the sides the same but alternate light/dark for the gable tops lift its impact?

Hmm, I seem to be posing more questions than answers here. All the same an interesting technical challenge, Steve.

Martyn
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Sorry posted the same thing twice, by mistake.
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
One word… KEWL!!!!
and some more words… glad to see you thinking outside the box…
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Thanks everyone.

I think the basic design/concept has potential. But I do believe something is wrong with my proportions. Then again, it does look pretty cool. I think I need to shorten it - go more cubic.

The veneer edges meeting went better than I had expected. They are practically invisible. This is one of the reasons that I wanted to add the banding. The other is wear-ability. I hate it when veneered things chip. I am still new to this veneer thing. But without it, the box is really clean.

Purp: I suck at hand tools. But I do need to grow up someday.

Steve: I think you are on to something with a fence that is shorter that the height of the rabbet bit. That is a really short fence, but I think it will work. You get a Gold Star Sticker. I am just afraid of mucking it up.

Karson: Nice link. Good stuff there. Thanks.

Blake: I might just leave it as it. I respect your design ability and now you have given me permission.

Brit: We think alike. I have never seen a box like this before, but I know there must be some (lots). It would be nice to study a few.

Autumn: I am always confused. There is a bunch of stuff going on here. It hurts sometimes.

Charlie, Jim, Degoose: Thanks. Your posts make my day.

Steve
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First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
I'll see if I can dig something up, Steve.
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
I've just posted Pattern of Four and I've got a previous post called DNA, both are veneered, questions welcome.
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Trim may help offset it some…..but it looks great as it…...different concept….cool lines…..beyond my scope!!!!
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
A lot of work, but done very well
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Steve

Wow, woodworking trickery for sure. Very cool idea and construction.

Bob
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Great Box!
First Look

Here goes my brain again, off on some tangent.
I have been thinking of building this box for a long time. I want to try to use veneer for some box building, but need some tricks to hide the veneered edge. So I chose a gable topped box with walnut corner treatment to hide the veneer. I am not sure if I like it, but it does have some potential. It was always prettier in my head. Maybe comments on the design might help. Or even the suggestion to start over or just bag it.
.
It started with a glue up of 1/4 inch MDF at 30 degrees. The veneer is quarter-sawn cherry.

.
I then cut these at 45 degrees making little triangles. I used another 30 degree temp glue up to make a sled holder.

.
I used the same sled holder rotated to cut the 90 degree cut offs.

.
The first gable glue up.

.
What the inside of the gables looks like. (I don't know what is with the yellow tint to this picture.)

.
I veneered one side of some 1/2 inch MDF (which will be the inside), cut 30 degree points at the top, mitered the corners, and cut a dado for the box bottom. (The plan was to cut arcs at the bottoms to form feet, but I forgot until too late.)

.
I then glued on the top, letting it overhang the box.

.
Then cut the top to the sides with a flush cut router bit.

.
I used a flush cut saw to finish the gable points.

.
I cut the top off the box. I also veneered the top edges at this point, so when I veneered the outside it would cover the seam. (I cheated here and used one large sheet, instead of 4 mitered strips. Dumb move.)

.
I then veneered the four sides while trying to match the grain.

.
So the box so far looks like this. It looks kind of bulky to me. 6.5 inches tall, by 4.5 inches square. The bottom is recessed by 1.5 inches, so I could reduce the height by cutting it down. Or cut an arc to 'lift it up' and form feet. I don't know. It has a coat of shellac on it.

.
Here is an inside view of the two pieces. (Again the weird yellow tint to the pics. ??) I guess it is calling out for hinges?

.
Now here is another dilemma. The plan was to add flush cut vertical walnut strips to the 4 corners. Also add the same type of strips to the outside edges of the gables (like the round piece, if it were a triangle instead). I don't know if I can do it. Or if I need to.

.
Any ideas? I could use some.
Steve
Steve,
A few of my thoughts:
1- I agree with your thoughts about proportions. It appears too tall for a box with a lid. If that's the exact gable you want to make, then shorten the box a bunch for that cubic look.
Alternatively, proportion the box more like any other useful box, and size the gables lenthwise/widthwise as a lid for that box.

2- The pic of the gables before you trimmed them flush had shadows that set off the gables from the sides.(7th pic in the series) That makes for a nice box lid and saves the labor of flush trimming the gables. (I think the proportion issue was more noticable after the flush trimming.)

3- Another direction: make 6 or more gable units and see about that geometry as 4 box sides connecting matching top/bottom. 45-deg will meet 45-deg to make 90 deg. I can picture it but can't explain it… hopefully, you get it.

Spence
PS I wrote the above before I saw your second gable box… I quickly came back to amend my notes and to say your second box has better proportions… well, they're golden proportions… and it looks great!
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9
Building a Second Box

Well I started on Gable box number 2. Actually it is really box number 4. The original box number 2 became seriously gouged when I tried to get clever on the routing table. Box 3 has curved gables rather than triangles. Things get a lot tougher doing that.

Box 1 was small and cubic, so now I tried larger and squattier. I also want to try out some interior trays. I suck at the artistic side of design, so I tried using the Golden Ratio of 1.6:1. I picked a larger box of 8 inches square. I wanted it shorter, so 8 / 1.6 = 5 inches tall. To get the side height, 5 / 1.6 = 3.125 inches. I drew this in Sketchup which told me that I needed an angle of 25 degrees for the gables.

.
I then built my sled for cutting the triangles with a 25 degree pitch. This is used for glue up and for table saw work.

.
Box 1 was MDF, which caused problems with looks and hinge attachment. It also had QS cherry, which the Wife Unit really does not like. This time I am using solid cherry, with cherry plain sawn veneer for the outside wrap. The inside will not get veneered.

.
I cut the dado for the bottom before I realized that I did not allow for feet to be routed out of the sides. Arrgh, so I will have to attach some later. I also put on a coat of sealer to the inside before gluing up.

.
.
Then the glue up. I cut some notches to help with clamping.

.
Then trimmed the gables flush with the sides.

.
Sawed the box in two.

.
Then I wrapped the sides with cherry veneer and trimmed flush. There is no finish applied at this point so it looks a bit washed out.

.
I found that the plain sawn veneer is a lot less forgiving than the QS. It chips much easier and the joints are more visible. So I have at least one more of these boxes to build before I put this to rest. That is so I can try to figure out the contrasting edge stringing which should hide the joints and add a bit of ruggedness to the veneer edges.

.
Now I need to make the tray. Keeping with the triangle theme, the plan is to form a 2" tall grid work on the bottom using two thin strips in a big X to create four compartments and it will double as a resting stop for the tray. The tray will also have an X and its height will follow the profile of the inside of the top. That is it will angle to rise in the center. This point can also be used as the grip to remove it.

And then feet, and hinges, and finish. Much to do, so little time.

Comments and suggestions always welcome.
Thanks for looking,
Steve
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