Fuming White Oak - Ammonia suppliers

Usually janitorial supply houses are the place to find concentrated ammonia. Remember you are looking for super concentrated ammonia in the 28% or more range. Super toxic stuff, be careful.

Marshall, I wouldn't recommend fuming if you want the sapwood to match the heartwood. The sapwood will be much lighter. Either remove all sapwood, or better yet use a stain that blends and conceals the sapwood. I have found stains with a high solid content work best. Examples include Rodda, Cabot, and Varathane brand stains.
If you use dye, the sapwood can actually stain DARKER than the heartwood.
This table is actually full of sapwood, but I don't notice it too much with the Rodda stain.

This table is actually full of sapwood, but I don t notice it too much with the Rodda stain.

- pintodeluxe

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Nice looking table! I normally stain my QSWO with GF Gel Stain. I thought that fuming might be an easier way to go for such a large proejct, but probably not with the sapwood that I have included already. Trying to match sapwood to the fumed heartwood screams PITA.

I've been a fan of the Ace Hardware stuff for years. Only 10% but does exactly what I need. My first attempts at fuming were with household 'lemony scent' ammonia and they failed to meet my needs. You can get stronger ammonia (used for blueprints i.e. drafting supply house), but the Ace ammonia works well with only a few hours of application.

My technique is to build a booth large enough to fully contain the oak pieces and any fixtures to hold them so that all surfaces are exposed. The booth is a frame (made with PVC pipe and "T"/cross/elbow fittings) covered with drop cloth plastic sheeting (you need to see the color change without having to open up the booth).
The ammonia is poured into a glass baking dish (it is easier to ask for forgiveness than ask for permission) and then set on the floor of the booth. The air will get quite toxic at this point so use appropriate caution/protection.
I then use a small (5") computer muffin fan to blow air over the dish and circulate the fumes within the booth.

As for holding the pieces, there are many tricks to be sure all exposed surfaces can get fully fumed.
When I do small parts (think rungs in a Mission style piece), I'll drill drywall screws into the hidden ends of the tendons and hang the parts on a string with wood clothespins. Larger parts get more elaborate support, but using screws in strategic places provides support points.
There is also the 'bed of nails' approach with long drywall screws driven through a scrap sheet of plywood. The oak is rested on the points.

For a queen sized bed (head board and frame I assume), I would consider using a half gallon of the ammonia in a pan. You can always refresh it if the process slows significantly before you reach your desired color.