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Freud & Biscuit Advice

1857 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by SteveMI, Jul 15, 2009

SteveMI

Discussion Starter · Jul 13, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

Short story is that I need to use the R2 & R3 size biscuits for some smaller craft stuff. Material is only 7/16" or 1/2", but doesn't need strength. I just returned from Lowes, HD, Menards, Andersons and Sears with nothing in the trunk except the biscuits from Menards.

Searched Woodcraft and Rockler, but didn't see anything online for the R size biscuits. They are a little far away from me to just drop in.

The only store that had a joiner that worked with R size biscuits was Sears, but the tool looked like a real cheap affair. The blade was simply stamped steel with the teeth being the blade material, no carbide wasted. All of it was very thin plastic and seemed fragile. Only good thing is it was available. It was $79.

I do have a Freud JS100a that I haven't used in years.

Questions:

Anyone know or recommend a R size biscuit joiner?

Anyone heard of a R size biscuit blade for my Freud?

What are the opinions of taking the Freud blade to a machine shop and having the carbide kerf modified for the R size biscuits? If this isn't absud, what kerf is an R biscuit kerf.

Budget is a big issue, so don't recommend a real premium type.

Just for a laugh, I did try a 0.050" end mill with two passes in the router for a 0.100" kerf. The R size biscuits measured 0.089". While it worked, the method had serious problems unless I build a special fence for the router and very small plug for the table.

Steve.

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KentS

· #2 · Jul 14, 2009

Freud does not make an R size blade for their unit.
I don't know if you could modify your blade. I would be concerned because you probably wouldn't end up with any side clearance after grinding down the carbide to the plate.--Just a thought, but you might check.

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SteveMI

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 14, 2009

Update

I went to Woodcraft today and bought a 3/32" (0.950" Kerf) 3-wing slotting cutter. Got a larger diameter bearing to reduct the depth since the parts are smaller in size. Set up my router table and cut a slot in a larger scrap piece of the thickness of my parts. Slot was just a bit loose, but thought that glue and the biscuit expanding would be alright.

I then approached the setup with one of the pieces. Only took a couple seconds to figure out that this was going to be a bit too dangerous without extensive fixtures.

Redesigned the parts and now going to simply use Titebond. (It is only a decorative craft.) Put the first one together and brad nailed some parts and only glued others. First prototype went well it seems the glue is adequate. Will post a picture on the next ones.

Lost a day and a half on this fantasy. On to the next one.

Steve.

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KentS

· #4 · Jul 15, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

Steve, I did some further research, and was going to suggest what you just did.
If you're interested in pursueing that method, you might check out my Router Sled Project. It might be an easy safe way to do it, once you build the sled. I like it because you can do a lot of other things with it.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/17463

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SteveMI

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 15, 2009

Kent,

Just went to your link with the sled and that could be my answer. I had thought about building a cut out nest for the parts that exposed the 3/8" that I wanted the biscuit groove with a upper and lower sheet of material to clamp them, but couldn't really figure out how to present the parts to the cutting wheel any better than just following the suspect fence.

BTW - current router table is generic craftsman stamped steel with bevel slots for fence and sloppy square slots for pusher. Only good things are that it mounts the PC and has switch on front. I have mainly used it for pattern cutting and edge treatments that use the bearing router bits.

After browsing some of the other router table projects I am very humbled. Need to start thinking about what I need to build. I don't build any cabinets or large furniture, but could use a more precise router table.

Steve.

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