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"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering)

30980 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  ADDmom
measuring the model and planning any modifications

So as part of a Murphy bed build, I wanted to incorporate a fold up (or hide away) ironing board. I have seen these at Lowes and Home Deport starting off about $168. They don't look that hard to build and I sure think I could save some money AND incorporate some better materials.

Step 1: Take my tape measure to Lowes and jot down some critical measurements. Ok, I forgot paper. Let's see, what can I find in my glove box? Perfect, my State Farm insurance cards, I can use the back of that! Ugh, bad start…

These units are designed to fit between standard 16" stud space in a wall. Since my use will be a completely custom Murphy bed complex (yes, I'm calling it a "complex", because it HAS become pretty complex) , I can make mine any size.

Coincidentally, my wife is learning how to sew. Her online class has a iron board cover as an upcoming project. How perfect, huh?

OK, I think I have the critical dimensions. Now I need to head home to build a mock up. The biggest challenge I see right now is the sliding mechanism is lined with plastic. I assume this is to lower the friction. I'm going to have to think about this one…

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Other important details

So some important details I have not mentioned yet.

The routed groove:
  • There is 2 ½" inches from the front of the case to the groove.
  • The top of the groove bends in ½"

Heat Shields:
Use aluminum for protection. I purchased a 24×6" piece and cut it in half. I sprayed it with white epoxy appliance spray paint then mounted it with 3M's Super 77 spray adhesive.

Install in coordination with your heat shields. This put my shelf 12" down from the top.

Electrical Unit:
If you decide to use this, install it as far right as possible. I left about an inch space to the right, but now our iron is a tight fit on the left when in storage. Also, the electrical line comes in from the top. this unit cost around $35. I am glad I got it, but it is also an easy upgrade at a later time assuming getting power to the top of your unit is somewhat easy.

Ironing Board Cover:
Lowes sells a cover that should fit the board dimensions I gave in a previous post. If not, use batting and fabric with elastic to make a padded cover. I rounded over the edges of the board using a 1/8" roundover bit.

Board Height:
Our previous ironing board height was 36" off of the ground. This is a comfortable height for my wife, so when I mounted the completed unit, I made sure the board height was around 36".

Ok, that is all the info I can think of to share. Please let me know if I can answer any questions. Good luck!

What is the depth required from face of the frame to the back of the cabinet to get the ironing board in so the door will close? Could it have been flush with the drywall if it were installed in a wall?
I want to do something similar, but I don't want the face frame sitting on the drywall because my wife actually wants to use an antique shutter as the door or mounted to the door to hide the unit, so the shutter needs to basically end up flush or close to it to the drywall. I guess that leaves me with @4" to work with in a 2×4 wall with drywall.
I think my other challenge will be hinges as the hinge will need to move "out" as we'll as hinge with the shutter sitting flush
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