How can I tell if I might have to put on a third coat? Or would that be overkill?Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
I read somewhere that a thinned Hide glue wash was at one time used as a preconditioned to cure blotching so have taken 2oz of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and mixed it with 12 oz of water as a second test. The reason also for choosing the liquid hide was it was more transparent vs being a cloudy white when mixed with water and this I felt would dry more transparent.
Anyway, I sanded my sample board with 220 as prep, applied a liberal coat of the hide glue wash, let it set for a few minutes so that the wood could absorb it, then wiped it off with a paper towel. I let it dry overnight, sanded with ROS 220 just to knock off the raised grain, then applied a second coat of the Hide wash as done previously. Let it dry over night and hit it again with ROS 220.
The first thing I noticed was the figure/grain was really pronounced as compared to the mix I used in Finishing Tips #1. I then applied the dye stain but the color was not the same even though I used the same dye. It was a shade or so lighter but the grain really showed through, the cause I assume is that the dye didn't penetrate the wood as much as with mix one.
Let that dry overnight and applied two coats of clear spray lacquer. And the figure/grain really shows through beautifully also very little blotching which was the main point of this whole thing. I would have to say even less blotching than with either Charles Neil's or my original Gorilla White Wood glue mix.
I can't get over how well the grain showed and no distortion of figure.
Anyway, my conclusion is that here is another very cheap way to cure the majority of blotching when working with cherry, but I have not tried it on any other species. I have a larger test sample that I am working on now and when that is done I will try to post some pictures.
Try it for yourself but on scrap samples to see if it suits you.
You can also use it to make a Spray-On Crackle finish by putting down a base color first (the color thatwill show through the cracks of the finish) and let it dry completely. Now brush on a thick coat of liquid hide glue, cut 50/50 with water. Let it dry for several hours, then spray on your colored-lacquer top coat. The size of the cracks will depend on how heavily you spray the lacquer. The heavier the coat, the bigger the cracks.
Again try it for yourself but on scrap samples.
Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Finishing Tips
Blotch Control (Homemade) Water Base Pre-Stain Conditioner
I have been working on a project in Cherry and before I finished the desks I decided to try out some of the General Finishes Dye stain but on the scrap test pieces the blotching was driving me nuts. I came to this site and tried all the suggestions until I came across the discussion proclaiming that Charles Neil's pre stain conditioner was the way to go. Bought some, tried it and still had minor blotching but it works well.
Watching his video he said it was a water based PVA enhanced product and doing some searching here and there I found that diluted PVA white glue has been used for years to control blotching. I just couldn't leave it alone so I started experimenting and I have come up with an alternative using Gorilla White Wood glue which I think is a polyvinyl alcohol glue and not very expensive ($5.97 for 18 oz shipped free to house from Home Depot).
I took 5 oz of the Gorilla White Wood Glue and mixed it with 36 oz of water and then added 2 oz of General Finishes natural water based stain. I then mainly followed the application directions for the Charles Neil blotch control only with my mix and the results were very close to the same.
After sanding with 220 use two coats pre stain conditioner as follows: Apply wet coat of pre stain conditioner (allowing short time for softwood to absorb mix) then wipe excess lightly with a dampened rag of pre stain conditioner with grain (allow coat to dry fully 2-4 hours depending on temp and humidity) and sand lightly with ROS machine 220 then by hand with 220 following grain between and after 2nd coat. Hand sand with 320 along grain as a final buff before applying stain. Brush on waterborne dye stain with foam brush letting set for short time so that it bites into pre stain conditioner wiping excess off lightly with clean rag along grain without putting too much pressure on surface of wood so as not to break through the pre stain conditioner.
After dye stain has dried (minimum 2-4 hours depending on temp and humidity), apply spray with ½ lb cut to ¾ lb cut dewaxed shellac, two coats sanding (lightly with 220 ROS and hand 320 along grain) between coats not breaking through shellac into color.
Apply by spray thinned finish coat over everything and let dry then hand sand lightly with 320 or 400 and apply multiple full finish coats drying and sanding between coats.
Water Base Pre-Stain Conditioner (Homemade)
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
I have been working on a project in Cherry and before I finished the desks I decided to try out some of the General Finishes Dye stain but on the scrap test pieces the blotching was driving me nuts. I came to this site and tried all the suggestions until I came across the discussion proclaiming that Charles Neil's pre stain conditioner was the way to go. Bought some, tried it and still had minor blotching but it works well.
Watching his video he said it was a water based PVA enhanced product and doing some searching here and there I found that diluted PVA white glue has been used for years to control blotching. I just couldn't leave it alone so I started experimenting and I have come up with an alternative using Gorilla White Wood glue which I think is a polyvinyl alcohol glue and not very expensive ($5.97 for 18 oz shipped free to house from Home Depot).
I took 5 oz of the Gorilla White Wood Glue and mixed it with 36 oz of water and then added 2 oz of General Finishes natural water based stain. I then mainly followed the application directions for the Charles Neil blotch control only with my mix and the results were very close to the same.
After sanding with 220 use two coats pre stain conditioner as follows: Apply wet coat of pre stain conditioner (allowing short time for softwood to absorb mix) then wipe excess lightly with a dampened rag of pre stain conditioner with grain (allow coat to dry fully 2-4 hours depending on temp and humidity) and sand lightly with ROS machine 220 then by hand with 220 following grain between and after 2nd coat. Hand sand with 320 along grain as a final buff before applying stain. Brush on waterborne dye stain with foam brush letting set for short time so that it bites into pre stain conditioner wiping excess off lightly with clean rag along grain without putting too much pressure on surface of wood so as not to break through the pre stain conditioner.
After dye stain has dried (minimum 2-4 hours depending on temp and humidity), apply spray with ½ lb cut to ¾ lb cut dewaxed shellac, two coats sanding (lightly with 220 ROS and hand 320 along grain) between coats not breaking through shellac into color.
Apply by spray thinned finish coat over everything and let dry then hand sand lightly with 320 or 400 and apply multiple full finish coats drying and sanding between coats.
Water Base Pre-Stain Conditioner (Homemade)
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
61 - 80 of 104 Posts
How can I tell if I might have to put on a third coat? Or would that be overkill?
Try it on scrap samples of the wood you are using to see which suits you and if there is a differance.Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
I read somewhere that a thinned Hide glue wash was at one time used as a preconditioned to cure blotching so have taken 2oz of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and mixed it with 12 oz of water as a second test. The reason also for choosing the liquid hide was it was more transparent vs being a cloudy white when mixed with water and this I felt would dry more transparent.
Anyway, I sanded my sample board with 220 as prep, applied a liberal coat of the hide glue wash, let it set for a few minutes so that the wood could absorb it, then wiped it off with a paper towel. I let it dry overnight, sanded with ROS 220 just to knock off the raised grain, then applied a second coat of the Hide wash as done previously. Let it dry over night and hit it again with ROS 220.
The first thing I noticed was the figure/grain was really pronounced as compared to the mix I used in Finishing Tips #1. I then applied the dye stain but the color was not the same even though I used the same dye. It was a shade or so lighter but the grain really showed through, the cause I assume is that the dye didn't penetrate the wood as much as with mix one.
Let that dry overnight and applied two coats of clear spray lacquer. And the figure/grain really shows through beautifully also very little blotching which was the main point of this whole thing. I would have to say even less blotching than with either Charles Neil's or my original Gorilla White Wood glue mix.
I can't get over how well the grain showed and no distortion of figure.
Anyway, my conclusion is that here is another very cheap way to cure the majority of blotching when working with cherry, but I have not tried it on any other species. I have a larger test sample that I am working on now and when that is done I will try to post some pictures.
Try it for yourself but on scrap samples to see if it suits you.
You can also use it to make a Spray-On Crackle finish by putting down a base color first (the color thatwill show through the cracks of the finish) and let it dry completely. Now brush on a thick coat of liquid hide glue, cut 50/50 with water. Let it dry for several hours, then spray on your colored-lacquer top coat. The size of the cracks will depend on how heavily you spray the lacquer. The heavier the coat, the bigger the cracks.
Again try it for yourself but on scrap samples.
Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
This is a pretty interesting subject for us as we have been doing a lot of jobs in Alder and a recent job in Maple. We use Charles' product and with excellent success. His product has been awesome and it tends to last a long time in that I buy what amounts to being 2 gallons of product and it will get us through a couple of jobs.Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
I read somewhere that a thinned Hide glue wash was at one time used as a preconditioned to cure blotching so have taken 2oz of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and mixed it with 12 oz of water as a second test. The reason also for choosing the liquid hide was it was more transparent vs being a cloudy white when mixed with water and this I felt would dry more transparent.
Anyway, I sanded my sample board with 220 as prep, applied a liberal coat of the hide glue wash, let it set for a few minutes so that the wood could absorb it, then wiped it off with a paper towel. I let it dry overnight, sanded with ROS 220 just to knock off the raised grain, then applied a second coat of the Hide wash as done previously. Let it dry over night and hit it again with ROS 220.
The first thing I noticed was the figure/grain was really pronounced as compared to the mix I used in Finishing Tips #1. I then applied the dye stain but the color was not the same even though I used the same dye. It was a shade or so lighter but the grain really showed through, the cause I assume is that the dye didn't penetrate the wood as much as with mix one.
Let that dry overnight and applied two coats of clear spray lacquer. And the figure/grain really shows through beautifully also very little blotching which was the main point of this whole thing. I would have to say even less blotching than with either Charles Neil's or my original Gorilla White Wood glue mix.
I can't get over how well the grain showed and no distortion of figure.
Anyway, my conclusion is that here is another very cheap way to cure the majority of blotching when working with cherry, but I have not tried it on any other species. I have a larger test sample that I am working on now and when that is done I will try to post some pictures.
Try it for yourself but on scrap samples to see if it suits you.
You can also use it to make a Spray-On Crackle finish by putting down a base color first (the color thatwill show through the cracks of the finish) and let it dry completely. Now brush on a thick coat of liquid hide glue, cut 50/50 with water. Let it dry for several hours, then spray on your colored-lacquer top coat. The size of the cracks will depend on how heavily you spray the lacquer. The heavier the coat, the bigger the cracks.
Again try it for yourself but on scrap samples.
Hide Glue Wash Mix for Cherry
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
That said, we are running low and so I decided to try this titebond liquid hide glue formula. I bought the liquid hide glue at woodcraft and I am very excited to use it as a conditioner. Thanks for the info.
Spraying Lazy Susan
Removed by original poster for personal publication.
Removed by original poster for personal publication.
Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
Just used the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish.
After reading a number of articles in American Woodworker, Wood, and other such woodworking magazines written by many independent professional finishers, they recommend the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish. Bartley were sold to Seagrave Coatings Corporation who now manufacture the Bartley line using the original formulas.
Seagrave has very few distributors/dealers that specifically cater to the small woodworking shop or finisher so the product is somewhat difficult to find and at a reasonable price. The labels are the same on the cans rather it be the Gel Stain or the Gel Varnish which indicates to me that it was specifically in production for the professional restorer who has used it for years.
In one of the articles on Lumber Jocks, some said that he had looked at Bartley website, however, it was Bartley Classic Reproduction who sell the Bartley Line and in no way connected to Seagrave/Bartley.
Anyway, I just got some from Woodworkers Supply and tried it. This is the best product I have ever used as compared to redily available over the counter products you can buy at the Big Box Stores or your local Hardware store. I think it is even better than the General Finishes Line as their product seems to muddy the grain, where the Bartley seems to be more transparent.
As far as the colors go, you really have to search to find all of them, as many dealers do not carry the complete line which somewhat limited anyway, however, by wet over wet staining with different colors and using a thinned down Gel Varnish as a first coat sealer, many different shades can be created.
There are two articles written by Kevin Southwick in the Feb/Mar 2013 issue #164 of American Woodworker and another in April/May 2012 issue #159 and another written by Dave Munkittrick in September 2005 issue #116 as an online web extra. There are other articles which started me on my search for Gel Varnishes and stains but to tell you the truth I have read so many I can't keep track of them.
I also have purchased other colors of the Bartley Gel Stains from Kilian Hardware which are not available from Woodworkers Supply.
Read the articles if you can get them…..excellent info.
Finishing Tips #4: Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Just used the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish.
After reading a number of articles in American Woodworker, Wood, and other such woodworking magazines written by many independent professional finishers, they recommend the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish. Bartley were sold to Seagrave Coatings Corporation who now manufacture the Bartley line using the original formulas.
Seagrave has very few distributors/dealers that specifically cater to the small woodworking shop or finisher so the product is somewhat difficult to find and at a reasonable price. The labels are the same on the cans rather it be the Gel Stain or the Gel Varnish which indicates to me that it was specifically in production for the professional restorer who has used it for years.
In one of the articles on Lumber Jocks, some said that he had looked at Bartley website, however, it was Bartley Classic Reproduction who sell the Bartley Line and in no way connected to Seagrave/Bartley.
Anyway, I just got some from Woodworkers Supply and tried it. This is the best product I have ever used as compared to redily available over the counter products you can buy at the Big Box Stores or your local Hardware store. I think it is even better than the General Finishes Line as their product seems to muddy the grain, where the Bartley seems to be more transparent.
As far as the colors go, you really have to search to find all of them, as many dealers do not carry the complete line which somewhat limited anyway, however, by wet over wet staining with different colors and using a thinned down Gel Varnish as a first coat sealer, many different shades can be created.
There are two articles written by Kevin Southwick in the Feb/Mar 2013 issue #164 of American Woodworker and another in April/May 2012 issue #159 and another written by Dave Munkittrick in September 2005 issue #116 as an online web extra. There are other articles which started me on my search for Gel Varnishes and stains but to tell you the truth I have read so many I can't keep track of them.
I also have purchased other colors of the Bartley Gel Stains from Kilian Hardware which are not available from Woodworkers Supply.
Read the articles if you can get them…..excellent info.
Finishing Tips #4: Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Nice tips!Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
Just used the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish.
After reading a number of articles in American Woodworker, Wood, and other such woodworking magazines written by many independent professional finishers, they recommend the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish. Bartley were sold to Seagrave Coatings Corporation who now manufacture the Bartley line using the original formulas.
Seagrave has very few distributors/dealers that specifically cater to the small woodworking shop or finisher so the product is somewhat difficult to find and at a reasonable price. The labels are the same on the cans rather it be the Gel Stain or the Gel Varnish which indicates to me that it was specifically in production for the professional restorer who has used it for years.
In one of the articles on Lumber Jocks, some said that he had looked at Bartley website, however, it was Bartley Classic Reproduction who sell the Bartley Line and in no way connected to Seagrave/Bartley.
Anyway, I just got some from Woodworkers Supply and tried it. This is the best product I have ever used as compared to redily available over the counter products you can buy at the Big Box Stores or your local Hardware store. I think it is even better than the General Finishes Line as their product seems to muddy the grain, where the Bartley seems to be more transparent.
As far as the colors go, you really have to search to find all of them, as many dealers do not carry the complete line which somewhat limited anyway, however, by wet over wet staining with different colors and using a thinned down Gel Varnish as a first coat sealer, many different shades can be created.
There are two articles written by Kevin Southwick in the Feb/Mar 2013 issue #164 of American Woodworker and another in April/May 2012 issue #159 and another written by Dave Munkittrick in September 2005 issue #116 as an online web extra. There are other articles which started me on my search for Gel Varnishes and stains but to tell you the truth I have read so many I can't keep track of them.
I also have purchased other colors of the Bartley Gel Stains from Kilian Hardware which are not available from Woodworkers Supply.
Read the articles if you can get them…..excellent info.
Finishing Tips #4: Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Thank you!
Thanks for posting, good stuffGel Stain & Gel Varnish
Just used the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish.
After reading a number of articles in American Woodworker, Wood, and other such woodworking magazines written by many independent professional finishers, they recommend the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish. Bartley were sold to Seagrave Coatings Corporation who now manufacture the Bartley line using the original formulas.
Seagrave has very few distributors/dealers that specifically cater to the small woodworking shop or finisher so the product is somewhat difficult to find and at a reasonable price. The labels are the same on the cans rather it be the Gel Stain or the Gel Varnish which indicates to me that it was specifically in production for the professional restorer who has used it for years.
In one of the articles on Lumber Jocks, some said that he had looked at Bartley website, however, it was Bartley Classic Reproduction who sell the Bartley Line and in no way connected to Seagrave/Bartley.
Anyway, I just got some from Woodworkers Supply and tried it. This is the best product I have ever used as compared to redily available over the counter products you can buy at the Big Box Stores or your local Hardware store. I think it is even better than the General Finishes Line as their product seems to muddy the grain, where the Bartley seems to be more transparent.
As far as the colors go, you really have to search to find all of them, as many dealers do not carry the complete line which somewhat limited anyway, however, by wet over wet staining with different colors and using a thinned down Gel Varnish as a first coat sealer, many different shades can be created.
There are two articles written by Kevin Southwick in the Feb/Mar 2013 issue #164 of American Woodworker and another in April/May 2012 issue #159 and another written by Dave Munkittrick in September 2005 issue #116 as an online web extra. There are other articles which started me on my search for Gel Varnishes and stains but to tell you the truth I have read so many I can't keep track of them.
I also have purchased other colors of the Bartley Gel Stains from Kilian Hardware which are not available from Woodworkers Supply.
Read the articles if you can get them…..excellent info.
Finishing Tips #4: Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
great info,i like the georgia cherry.very nice looking.Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
Just used the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish.
After reading a number of articles in American Woodworker, Wood, and other such woodworking magazines written by many independent professional finishers, they recommend the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish. Bartley were sold to Seagrave Coatings Corporation who now manufacture the Bartley line using the original formulas.
Seagrave has very few distributors/dealers that specifically cater to the small woodworking shop or finisher so the product is somewhat difficult to find and at a reasonable price. The labels are the same on the cans rather it be the Gel Stain or the Gel Varnish which indicates to me that it was specifically in production for the professional restorer who has used it for years.
In one of the articles on Lumber Jocks, some said that he had looked at Bartley website, however, it was Bartley Classic Reproduction who sell the Bartley Line and in no way connected to Seagrave/Bartley.
Anyway, I just got some from Woodworkers Supply and tried it. This is the best product I have ever used as compared to redily available over the counter products you can buy at the Big Box Stores or your local Hardware store. I think it is even better than the General Finishes Line as their product seems to muddy the grain, where the Bartley seems to be more transparent.
As far as the colors go, you really have to search to find all of them, as many dealers do not carry the complete line which somewhat limited anyway, however, by wet over wet staining with different colors and using a thinned down Gel Varnish as a first coat sealer, many different shades can be created.
There are two articles written by Kevin Southwick in the Feb/Mar 2013 issue #164 of American Woodworker and another in April/May 2012 issue #159 and another written by Dave Munkittrick in September 2005 issue #116 as an online web extra. There are other articles which started me on my search for Gel Varnishes and stains but to tell you the truth I have read so many I can't keep track of them.
I also have purchased other colors of the Bartley Gel Stains from Kilian Hardware which are not available from Woodworkers Supply.
Read the articles if you can get them…..excellent info.
Finishing Tips #4: Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
I just added a link to a video in the above from American Woodworker web extras….give it a watch It offers an alternative to other blotch contols.Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
Just used the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish.
After reading a number of articles in American Woodworker, Wood, and other such woodworking magazines written by many independent professional finishers, they recommend the Bartley line of Gel Stains and Gel Varnish. Bartley were sold to Seagrave Coatings Corporation who now manufacture the Bartley line using the original formulas.
Seagrave has very few distributors/dealers that specifically cater to the small woodworking shop or finisher so the product is somewhat difficult to find and at a reasonable price. The labels are the same on the cans rather it be the Gel Stain or the Gel Varnish which indicates to me that it was specifically in production for the professional restorer who has used it for years.
In one of the articles on Lumber Jocks, some said that he had looked at Bartley website, however, it was Bartley Classic Reproduction who sell the Bartley Line and in no way connected to Seagrave/Bartley.
Anyway, I just got some from Woodworkers Supply and tried it. This is the best product I have ever used as compared to redily available over the counter products you can buy at the Big Box Stores or your local Hardware store. I think it is even better than the General Finishes Line as their product seems to muddy the grain, where the Bartley seems to be more transparent.
As far as the colors go, you really have to search to find all of them, as many dealers do not carry the complete line which somewhat limited anyway, however, by wet over wet staining with different colors and using a thinned down Gel Varnish as a first coat sealer, many different shades can be created.
There are two articles written by Kevin Southwick in the Feb/Mar 2013 issue #164 of American Woodworker and another in April/May 2012 issue #159 and another written by Dave Munkittrick in September 2005 issue #116 as an online web extra. There are other articles which started me on my search for Gel Varnishes and stains but to tell you the truth I have read so many I can't keep track of them.
I also have purchased other colors of the Bartley Gel Stains from Kilian Hardware which are not available from Woodworkers Supply.
Read the articles if you can get them…..excellent info.
Finishing Tips #4: Gel Stain & Gel Varnish
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Very handy collection. Thanks for putting all that together.Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!!Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
That is some helpful and useful information. Thanks for putting this together!!Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Added two more links in the above post at the bottom…..very good reading. Enjoy.Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
pj
I appreciate your info on even staining. I am wondering when you mix the titebond hide glue with water, do you do so warm, or at room temperature? Also do you still like that mixture for blotch control, or have you found something you like more. Thanks!Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
@KressoLinks to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
I mixed the titebond hide glue as well as all the others I have tried with room temperature water, and have now switched to room temperater distilled water per a recommendation of anther Lumberjock. Reason for this is that it removes any contamination on my part with stray chemicals and metals wich may or may not react with the wood or topcoats.
I now use the Gorilla White Wood glue mix only leaving out the General stain additive (cost for results not worth it), as I always have white glue on hand, works well, can be mixed fresh each time it is used, and is cheaper than most anything that is available commercially.
@pjLinks to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Thanks a ton. I will try the Gorilla White Wood glue and distilled water. I really appreciate your quick reply!
Here are more finishing tips from American Woodworker:Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips, January 2007, issue #126,
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing, originally appeared in American Woodworker April/May 2011, issue #153
Tips for Finishing Cherry, appeared in American Woodworker April 2002, Issue #93.
30 Finishing Supplies, appeared in American Woodworker April/May 2009, issue #141.
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker…. I have added all the links in the orig article and they are current.Links to finishing topics of Interest
Updated 3/1/15 as links were changed when Popular Woodworking bought out American WoodWorker….
One of the parts of woodworking that many would like to do better is finishing, and that includes me. On my quest to obtain the background I have bought books, talked with professionals in the field, and searched high and low on the internet to find the answers to my questions.
Some of the questions arose as I was completing a project but others were generated by what I had read. As I have gotten older I say to myself, "I know I have read something about this particular procedure", but I can't remember where so I have started to make written list and copies of articles so that I can refer back to them as needed.
I know I'm going to take some heat from younger members of the LJ's, however; you will start losing it if you do not use it all the time. It serves no purpose not to pass along this information if it can help others.
Anyway, here is a small list of articles covering the topic of finishing which I have found interesting and informative and you may as well.
Staining Pine
Make Poplar Look Pretty
Tips-for-finishing-walnut
Techniques-for-fantastic-oak-finishes
Fuming with Ammonia
Chemical-ebonizing
Aged-cherry-finish
20-finishing-tips
Using wood bleach
Tips-for-repairing-finishes
Repair-a-water-damaged-finish
Using drywall Compound as Wood Pore filler
Wood Finishing & Wood Staining
How to Stain Wood for Even Color
DEALING WITH THE CHERRY BLOTCHING PROBLEM
Shellac as a sealer? It's all just hype
AW Extra 12/27/12 - 12 Finishing Tips
AW Extra 3/20/14 - Wipe-On/Rub-Off Finishing
Tips for Finishing Cherry
30 Finishing Supplies
AW Extra 1/2/14 - Tips for Gluing Miters
Homeshop Finishes That Work
Bleaching Wood
Oxalic Acid in Furniture Restoration
A few of the above are listed in below comments and I am unable to change them below, so, use the links above. If any of the links do not work, please let me know and I will try to correct it.
Finishing Tips #5: Links to finishing topics of Interest
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
I also added a link to an article "Tips for Gluing Miters" above as I found it interesting.
Homemade Blotch Control Instructions
Many people have contacted me concerning the specific mixing instructions to make homemade blotch control and specifics as to its application. So here they are.
Mixing instructions
Glue size is most commonly made of a watered-down, water-based, PVA adhesive. If you do plan to make your own, try something on the order of 10 parts (or a little less) water to one part Gorilla White Wood Glue. The ratios may vary with species and porosity of the wood.
Use:
Distilled Water (Can be purchased in most Grocery stores)
Gorilla White Wood Glue
Glass/Plastic Jar with cover for mixing and storage
Cotton Cloths (clean and pre-washed)
Note: On one of my previous projects, I used Gorilla White Wood Glue at a ratio of approximately 1 part glue to 8 parts water and in worked well as compared to a commercially produced water based pre-stain/blotch control formulation at about 25% of the cost.
Always make test applications using pieces of scrap wood from the same project you plan to finish. You also may find the results will be different from project to project using the same species of wood.
You can also spray the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control by applying a full wet soaking coat of homemade conditioner, and then follow step 2 through step 7 below.
How to apply the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control/Conditioner
1. Always stir well before using. Apply a wet soaking coat of homemade conditioner to the final sanded project with a brush or cloth. You want the mix to be absorbed by the soft grains within the wood, thereby balancing absorption of the surface to subsequent coatings.
2. Allow a few minutes for the conditioner to be absorbed into the wood. Then wipe the surface of the wood with a clean cotton cloth dampened with the conditioner to insure total coverage and removal of the excess.
3. Allow the surface to dry. This will vary depending on ambient temperature and humidity. Best guess is 1-2 hours and it is ok to leave for longer.
4. At this point because the wood gain has risen due to the water in the conditioner, lightly sand the surface with 280 or finer grit sandpaper so as to remove the raised grain. Clean the surfaces with a vacuum or dry cotton cloth to remove any dust left after sanding.
5. Apply the second coat of the conditioner following the same procedures as in step 1 and step 2.
6. Allow the second coat of the conditioner to dry overnight; then very lightly sand the wood surface with 280-600 grit sandpaper. I usually use 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper as I always have it in the shop. Make sure you do not over sand the conditioner which will break the seal into the grain of the wood.
7. At this point clean the surfaces with a vacuum or dry cotton cloth. Some blow it off with air but this will scatter dust particles into the air and may contaminate your finish. If you must or prefer to use air then take the project outside vs in the same area you are using to apply finish. Some use a de-waxed tack cloth to remove any dust left over from the sanding, however, this may cause problems for some finishes and I do not recommend using them. You are now ready for your stain or dye and top finish.
See suggestions below when applying coloring products over the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control.
Recommendations when Applying Stains and Dies
When applying gel stains or oil based stains; you might be able to use just one coat of the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control; however, you should make a test on scraps to be insure the results meet with your approval.
When applying waterborne dyes and stains over the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control, apply as normally done, but avoid over wetting and excessive wiping as it may cause the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control to soften and reduce its effectiveness.
When applying Alcohol/Lacquer/Acetone/Xylol base dyes and stains, they must be sprayed.
Water Base Pre-Stain Conditioner (Homemade) Instructions
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
Many people have contacted me concerning the specific mixing instructions to make homemade blotch control and specifics as to its application. So here they are.
Mixing instructions
Glue size is most commonly made of a watered-down, water-based, PVA adhesive. If you do plan to make your own, try something on the order of 10 parts (or a little less) water to one part Gorilla White Wood Glue. The ratios may vary with species and porosity of the wood.
Use:
Distilled Water (Can be purchased in most Grocery stores)
Gorilla White Wood Glue
Glass/Plastic Jar with cover for mixing and storage
Cotton Cloths (clean and pre-washed)
Note: On one of my previous projects, I used Gorilla White Wood Glue at a ratio of approximately 1 part glue to 8 parts water and in worked well as compared to a commercially produced water based pre-stain/blotch control formulation at about 25% of the cost.
Always make test applications using pieces of scrap wood from the same project you plan to finish. You also may find the results will be different from project to project using the same species of wood.
You can also spray the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control by applying a full wet soaking coat of homemade conditioner, and then follow step 2 through step 7 below.
How to apply the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control/Conditioner
1. Always stir well before using. Apply a wet soaking coat of homemade conditioner to the final sanded project with a brush or cloth. You want the mix to be absorbed by the soft grains within the wood, thereby balancing absorption of the surface to subsequent coatings.
2. Allow a few minutes for the conditioner to be absorbed into the wood. Then wipe the surface of the wood with a clean cotton cloth dampened with the conditioner to insure total coverage and removal of the excess.
3. Allow the surface to dry. This will vary depending on ambient temperature and humidity. Best guess is 1-2 hours and it is ok to leave for longer.
4. At this point because the wood gain has risen due to the water in the conditioner, lightly sand the surface with 280 or finer grit sandpaper so as to remove the raised grain. Clean the surfaces with a vacuum or dry cotton cloth to remove any dust left after sanding.
5. Apply the second coat of the conditioner following the same procedures as in step 1 and step 2.
6. Allow the second coat of the conditioner to dry overnight; then very lightly sand the wood surface with 280-600 grit sandpaper. I usually use 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper as I always have it in the shop. Make sure you do not over sand the conditioner which will break the seal into the grain of the wood.
7. At this point clean the surfaces with a vacuum or dry cotton cloth. Some blow it off with air but this will scatter dust particles into the air and may contaminate your finish. If you must or prefer to use air then take the project outside vs in the same area you are using to apply finish. Some use a de-waxed tack cloth to remove any dust left over from the sanding, however, this may cause problems for some finishes and I do not recommend using them. You are now ready for your stain or dye and top finish.
See suggestions below when applying coloring products over the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control.
Recommendations when Applying Stains and Dies
When applying gel stains or oil based stains; you might be able to use just one coat of the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control; however, you should make a test on scraps to be insure the results meet with your approval.
When applying waterborne dyes and stains over the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control, apply as normally done, but avoid over wetting and excessive wiping as it may cause the Homemade Glue Sizing/Blotch Control to soften and reduce its effectiveness.
When applying Alcohol/Lacquer/Acetone/Xylol base dyes and stains, they must be sprayed.
Water Base Pre-Stain Conditioner (Homemade) Instructions
©2010-2015 Paul Jones - All Rights Reserved
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