Here is my procedure for a mirror shellac finish.
1. Brush on 3 to 5 coats of shellac. Lightly sand with fine sandpaper after the 1st coat. Then apply the rest of the coats.Let dry overnight. Porous wood like Oak will need a filler to fill up the pores.
2. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper until there are no glossy areas. I use a 2X Magnivisor and a bright light when doing this to REALLY see what the surface is like. (You are trying to fill in the pores/low spots with shellac and take off the high spots by sanding). If you sand through the finish, add more shellac coats and sand again. Do this until there are no pores/low spots that show gloss when sanding.
3. After sanding, burnish and polish the shellac surface beginning with with 00 grade steel wool. Finish up burnishing with finer 0000 grade steel wool.
4. Using a fine automotive paint polishing compound (not wax!), polish the shellac surface to a high gloss. Don't apply too much. Just a little bit and rub until the compound seems to be gone and keep rubbing. You'll get the hang of it.
5. Make sure the polished shellac surface is thoroughly clean, then apply some Johnson's paste wax. Buff until there is a mirror finish.
Note that this works will almost all finishes. And remember, the finish must be absolutely dry and HARD before sanding. I usually let my newly applied shellac dry overnight before sanding. Some other finishes are slower drying and can take two days to completely harden before beginning the sanding/polishing sequence.
"Satin" finishes don't need the polishing. the "satin" effect comes from a fine talc-like powder added to the finishing medium when it is manufactured. You buy "satin" finish varnish or "gloss" varnish at the store.
Planeman
1. Brush on 3 to 5 coats of shellac. Lightly sand with fine sandpaper after the 1st coat. Then apply the rest of the coats.Let dry overnight. Porous wood like Oak will need a filler to fill up the pores.
2. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper until there are no glossy areas. I use a 2X Magnivisor and a bright light when doing this to REALLY see what the surface is like. (You are trying to fill in the pores/low spots with shellac and take off the high spots by sanding). If you sand through the finish, add more shellac coats and sand again. Do this until there are no pores/low spots that show gloss when sanding.
3. After sanding, burnish and polish the shellac surface beginning with with 00 grade steel wool. Finish up burnishing with finer 0000 grade steel wool.
4. Using a fine automotive paint polishing compound (not wax!), polish the shellac surface to a high gloss. Don't apply too much. Just a little bit and rub until the compound seems to be gone and keep rubbing. You'll get the hang of it.
5. Make sure the polished shellac surface is thoroughly clean, then apply some Johnson's paste wax. Buff until there is a mirror finish.
Note that this works will almost all finishes. And remember, the finish must be absolutely dry and HARD before sanding. I usually let my newly applied shellac dry overnight before sanding. Some other finishes are slower drying and can take two days to completely harden before beginning the sanding/polishing sequence.
"Satin" finishes don't need the polishing. the "satin" effect comes from a fine talc-like powder added to the finishing medium when it is manufactured. You buy "satin" finish varnish or "gloss" varnish at the store.
Planeman
