Finish for rough cut lumber
Made some signs out of rough cut Hickory. client was them to look natural, no finish at all on these. Want's the lettering painted. My plan is to shellac the lettering prior to painting to prevent bleeding. I'd like to put nothing on the rest of the signs. Will this work out? Or do I need to put a flat WB poly on the signs. They will be indoors. Brand new to sign making..
TIA
TIA
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
To get it painted, I might consider using some liquid masking then exacto out the engraving. Then spray shellac to seal followed by paint. When I've laser engraved things, I'll cover the surface with tape, then engrave through the tape. Makes painting the engravings pretty easy as the tape perfectly matches the lines. Never tried it, but I wonder if you could liquid mask the surface of the board prior to machining to make it easier.
If they're indoors, no need to put a finish on the wood. But that being said, I think something an oil finish of some sort (Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil, Rubio Monocoat, Osmo) would provide a nice look (that remains natural).
If they're indoors, no need to put a finish on the wood. But that being said, I think something an oil finish of some sort (Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil, Rubio Monocoat, Osmo) would provide a nice look (that remains natural).
Ive never used the liquid mask but I will look into it. I think the rubio would be a pain to get into and out of all the saw marks but I will definately try the blo and tung oil to see how it looks on some scrap. Thanks for the input.To get it painted, I might consider using some liquid masking then exacto out the engraving. Then spray shellac to seal followed by paint. When I ve laser engraved things, I ll cover the surface with tape, then engrave through the tape. Makes painting the engravings pretty easy as the tape perfectly matches the lines. Never tried it, but I wonder if you could liquid mask the surface of the board prior to machining to make it easier.
If they re indoors, no need to put a finish on the wood. But that being said, I think something an oil finish of some sort (Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil, Rubio Monocoat, Osmo) would provide a nice look (that remains natural).
- EdDantes
Don't think you'd have that issue with Rubio. I'd use it. It isn't a stain or finish in the traditional sense as it bonds to the wood vs sitting on the surface. Just wipe it off. Rubio says "you can't wipe off too much".Ive never used the liquid mask but I will look into it. I think the rubio would be a pain to get into and out of all the saw marks but I will definately try the blo and tung oil to see how it looks on some scrap. Thanks for the input.
- bp2878
Hickory is rather dense wood.. I'd test the type of paint you plan on using, on a scrap piece of hickory, before the applying it to the final piece. Depends on the type of paint you use. Some paints won't bleed into the wood. I have used the Testors brand (model car paints for plastic cars) on wood, without taping off. And not experienced bleeding or leaching out. Results may vary of coarse. So test on scrap pieces wood.
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