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Can't view the video. When I click on the Play button, absolutely nothing happens!

Jim
 

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Steve, this was a well produced video and you demonstrated a very well built jig that not only addresses the process of cutting the joints but also emphasizes a safe approach to cutting the joint as well.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to share this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Glad you like it, guys, thank you for the kind comments.

As it happens, I've just been sent a commercial model to review for British Woodworking magazine. Mine is better! :D
Well let me clarify that. The commercial model gets 10/10 for build quality, but it relies on the user having a particular router table insert (or being able to drill and tap to CNC precision), there is no guarding or chip collection facility, and the peg is rather high, so there is a minimum stock thickness of 12mm, which is a bit thick for a delicate little jewellery box, for example.
On the plus side, it comes with three different joint templates, 6, 10 and 12mm, whereas mine does only the size it is made for.
On the whole, I'm pretty pleased with this and if I made it again, I don't think I'd change anything. Have a go!
Cheers
Steve
 

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Steve, this is great and you are a genious. I enjoyed it immensely have not been in my shop in ages, but I try to keep up to date on new rigs n jigs. this video may motivate me to go back to the shop just to try and make this jig. Your great, keep up the good work.

see ya'll
Evelinda
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Knothead, I'm not sure that this counts as "detailed" but here is a sketch of my jig. I've even eddited the dimension to inches for you! :)! You'll probably have to modify the dimensions to suit your router table anyway, but this is mine.
 

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Steve-Received my DVD set Thursday, and have viewed the 2 DVD's dealing with the bandsaw. Excellent information, well written, and nicely photographed and produced. I especially appreciate the detailed information in PDF form and Sketchup models in the Resources folder. Thanks!
 

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Hi Steve - great jig. I watched the video a few times, made a few notes then made the jig. It turned our reasonable well although I don't (yet) have a mitre track in my table, so had to run it along the fence. A couple of things I think you should mention in the video/notes - and please correct me if I'm wrong here, I'm a router newbie!
(i) that the width of the peg must match the diameter of the cutter exactly.
(ii) that you can't cut finger joints using this jig, in stock thinner than the diameter of the cutter (unless you want to cut the joints too long, and trim then hand plane them later.

Also - a question. I made my jig to work with a 1/2" bit - probably too big, in hindsight. As a trial, I started cutting in 18mm MDF (not at all ideal for finger joints, but I just wanted to test the jig) - meaning that the bit was trying to cut 18mm of MDF at a time - surely too much? Cutting in several steps would be a real hassle wouldn't it? Or would you just go through and cut all fingers at say 6mm, then at 12mm, then at 18mm?

Hope to hear from you soon!

Matthew
Auckland, NZ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
that the width of the peg must match the diameter of the cutter exactly.

Yes. It what I call a Goldilocks fit, not too tight and not too loose - just right

that you can't cut finger joints using this jig, in stock thinner than the diameter of the cutter (unless you want to cut the joints too long, and trim then hand plane them later.

I don't see why not. As long as the peg is lower than the thickness of the stock, you are OK. It might look a bit odd, though, if you have wide fingers in thin stock.

Also - a question. I made my jig to work with a 1/2" bit - probably too big, in hindsight. As a trial, I started cutting in 18mm MDF (not at all ideal for finger joints, but I just wanted to test the jig) - meaning that the bit was trying to cut 18mm of MDF at a time - surely too much? Cutting in several steps would be a real hassle wouldn't it? Or would you just go through and cut all fingers at say 6mm, then at 12mm, then at 18mm?

I think that 18mm is probably a bit thick for using this technique for the reasons you suggest. Box joints are typically used for smallish boxes and drawers, typically 6 - 12mm thick (1/4 - 1/2") and you really need to make the cut in one go, so it means a steady approach and a meaty router if you are planning to use thicker stock.

Cheers
Steve
 

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Hi Steve - thanks for the quick response. I guess I made the (incorrect) assumption that the peg has to be square (ie width = height) - which has a bearing on how deep the fingers must be. The peg clearly has to be the same width as the bit - but the height is irrelevant. With a peg that is relatively short, the depths of the fingers can be short too.

Is there a conventional relationship between bit diameter/peg width, and stock thickness?

Matthew
 
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