Festool stuff

mafe said:

Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.

That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.

Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.

A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.

Just like this.

No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.

Smiles.

Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.

Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...

mafe said:

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Click to expand...