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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop

Festool fence and rail dogs
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:


The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).


I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.


Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.


For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.


Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…


A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.


Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.


The hex key shortened.


To fit inside the rail.


Ready to rock and cut.


Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.


Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).


Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.


The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 

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Joined
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1,838 Posts
Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop

Festool fence and rail dogs
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:


The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).


I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.


Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.


For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.


Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…


A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.


Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.


The hex key shortened.


To fit inside the rail.


Ready to rock and cut.


Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.


Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).


Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.


The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

Best thoughts,

MaFe
In the link in my email I can open your pictures. When I'm on the LJ site I don't see any pictures. This is not only with this post but also with the ones before about the Festool stuff.
 

· Registered
Joined
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2,584 Posts
Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop

Festool fence and rail dogs
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:


The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).


I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.


Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.


For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.


Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…


A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.


Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.


The hex key shortened.


To fit inside the rail.


Ready to rock and cut.


Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.


Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).


Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.


The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Sexy dogs Mads, that's a nifty set up you have now. Is there a special name for them?
One thing I notice whenever you post something there is always some food involved in the picture. Make me hungry.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,953 Posts
Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop

Festool fence and rail dogs
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:


The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).


I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.


Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.


For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.


Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…


A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.


Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.


The hex key shortened.


To fit inside the rail.


Ready to rock and cut.


Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.


Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).


Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.


The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Clever idea with the magnets to hold the allen wrench.

Funny but when on my phone, Google Chrome displays the images perfectly!
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop

Festool fence and rail dogs
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:


The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).


I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.


Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.


For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.


Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…


A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.


Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.


The hex key shortened.


To fit inside the rail.


Ready to rock and cut.


Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.


Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).


Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.


The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Hi there,
Dutchy, sorry, we are working on it, think the problem is found.
doubleDD, Laughs yes dam sexy! The dogs for the fence are called fence dogs, the system table is Festool MFT.
The dogs are all bought at https://benchdogs.co.uk/ the have loads of cool stuff, for the 20mm holes.
Smiles, yes there are a thing about me and food, beer, whiskey, snacks, tobacco and woman… Laugh. Happy it makes you hungry. I love to enjoy life.
Lew, I know from experience, that I would look for that allen wrench again and again, if I did not come up with an solution. Smiles. Yes the picture thing is really strange, sees like the browsers run on different sets of rules.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Fence and rail dogs - updates to the workshop

Festool fence and rail dogs
updates to the workshop.

Let's just get started:


The postman brought me these wonderful aluminium things, all the way from UK.
(Once they are out of the EU, that kind of shopping will be over again).


I had decided to replace my home made fence dogs, made from steel pipe, with some new and fancy dogs.
Actually the old once worked fine, but they were so tight, that it was a struggle to get them out, when I needed that, also I just found the new dogs kind of sexy. Laughs.


Mounted on the fence.
Cool and functional.


For the rail dogs, they are just slipped in and tightened up, while placed in the holes.


Then the collars are set for desired cut hight when needed.
Only little problem is where do I put the hex key…


A piece of hardwood and two rare earth magnets, glued in with epoxy.


Sized to a perfect fit, in the rail.


The hex key shortened.


To fit inside the rail.


Ready to rock and cut.


Here a way to use it, some plywood are put on the table, against some fence dogs, to align it.


Rail with rail dogs are put in and now it's time to route a rabbet, saw or what ever one need, the holes give you a perfect 90 degrees.
(Hope you got the simple description).


Also made my self a small tray, to keep the most used dogs at hand.


The rest have a place in the small drawers.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a happy wruuffff!

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Lew, can you try now? I have changed the file extensions to https instead of http, my host says that's what is needed…
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,953 Posts
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Love that washer idea- Inspired!
 

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Joined
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18,919 Posts
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
you just gave me another project that i can really use buddy,thank you.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,335 Posts
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
It looks like a very surprised fence! Perhaps it saw the happy monkey dance.

Less is plenty, my friend. Well done!
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Hi there,
Lew, smiles, yes less is more at times. Smiles, a big one.
Pottz, So happy if this is the case, look forward to see your go on it. Thanks.
Dave, Yes this is the Ohhhhhhhh fence, the Ohhhh happy dancing monkey fence… Laughs, thanks.
Best thoughts and thanks for leaving a word,
Mads
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,101 Posts
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
you just gave me another project that i can really use buddy,thank you.

- pottz
+1

Thanks for the roadmap.
 

· Registered
Joined
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5 Posts
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Great job thanks for the detail.
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Hi guys,

Andybb, +1 big smile here. Lovely word for a blog 'rodmap'.

MikeJT, Thanks, always happy to share the journey.

Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Yea, No…Looks way too complicated and precise to me…Plus no Festools'''

Would like to know if in that last photo, if that's one of your drawings?

Cool man…
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Rail square DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
can be made for any rail.

When doing construction work, it's useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cut's don't need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.
Decided I needed one of these for my allotment house and that it would be a fun project, to make a MaFe version.
This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.


Here the finished project first, plywood rail square mounted on the rail and put up against a piece of MDF for cut.


The cut side.
Hope you get the idea.


Let's get to it!
I start by cutting a piece of quality plywood.
The size is the width of the inside of a Systainer, so it can be stored there and the hight, app half of that.

Marking where the T-slot is located.


Leaving a wee bit of the ply going passed the edge of the rail, on the cutting side.


A strip the width of the T-slot, is cut from old IKEA cutting board.
(It's not needed to be from IKEA).


Make sure it's a tight fit.


On the table saw, a rabbet is cut to fit the strip.
Go slow and sneak in on it.


Roger rabbet…


Forgot to take a picture, when I were screwing in, the strip, but it's just three small screws, with countersink in the strip.
Here I cut an angle, to the fence, that starts where the rail ends, it's not needed, I just found it nice looking and wanted to remove weight, when possible.


Testing it out.


Remember we kept this one a wee too wide, don't cut it yet.


As you can see the fence is not completely square, so that will need to be corrected.


But I want to finish the build first and once all is done, square it up.
Here you get the basic idea, now we need a way to secure the fence and a little helper, to keep it on the board.

The washer will keep it from tilting and then I need to figure out how to hold it in place… Hmmmmmmmmm…


Perhaps something like this.


Well that might work!


Not bad at all, this will be a hardware free solution, that I like.


Glue.


We got a sliding fixture.


Less is plenty, big smile.


The devil is in the detail.


This will work, the rail can slide in and out, but will be held secure in place.


More glue.


Gave it some brad nails, while it was on the rail.
Here you can see the fence.


Zoom.


Screws from the backside, to hold it firmly in place.


What a mess.


I decided to remove the centre screw and ad one on each side.


So I can drill a hole in the centre.


8mm straight in the middle.


There are cut out for a bolt, in the strip.
The bolt needs to be grinded a wee bit on each side, to fit in the T-track.

Now with cut out for bolt to ride in the T-track.


Bolt is put in place and fence is slided on.


Good size hand knob is screwed on to it, like this it will lock and secure the fence.


Back to the hold in place thingy…
A large washer.


Drilling a hole.


Marking position.


Screw with a locking washer is screwed in.


Like this it can be easy set aside, when not needed or transported.


It will prevent the rail from tipping and make it easy to align the board.


Backside.


This is not needed, but again I would like to remove some material, to make it lighter and to look cool.


Also ran it over with a router, just to remove the sharp edges.


The fence.


Top.


Sliding the rail on to it.


Tightening the hand knob.
Is it only me who thinks this fence says WHOOO?
It really made me laugh.


Once squared up, I put a carpenters square on it, and found out it was app 1mm out of square.


This was simply corrected by running it through the table saw.


Test cutting and cutting over the wee extra, sticking out of the fence.


And yes it works like a charm, dead square now and really easy to use.
Think it's going to be a winner, especially on the road.


Fits in a systainer.


But for now it will spend the winter on the workshop wall.

Well the fence story is not over, there will be another part or two, as I actually started out making one in acrylic / plexiglass / PMMA, before I made this one, but then got distracted into making this one, but that's another story.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even a straight cut.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Hi Jack,
Laughs, this was the simple one, no one needs Festool, it's a luxury item, I have worked with Estonian woodworkers, that could make things of a unbelievable standard, with a dull chisel, a hammer and a rusty skill saw. It just makes it easier to be precise, when your tool is.
Yes that is a croquis / live drawing of mine, a discipline I have enjoyed a lot, as you learn to focus and feel a shape, as you have no time, to use your intellectual side.
Best thoughts thanks,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.


That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.


Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.


A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.


Just like this.


No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.


Smiles.


Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.


Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 

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Joined
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6,953 Posts
Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.


That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.


Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.


A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.


Just like this.


No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.


Smiles.


Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.


Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
I wish I had your "eye" for designing working devices that are this simple and quick. I always over engineer everything.

Another inspired add-on. Maybe you'll get hired by the Festool engineering department!
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.


That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.


Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.


A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.


Just like this.


No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.


Smiles.


Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.


Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Thank you Lew, wait until you see my next version, this was where I over engineered big time. Laugh.
I'm retired, so not for hire, love to sleep late, smiles.
Best of my thoughts to you my dear friend.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,335 Posts
Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.


That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.


Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.


A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.


Just like this.


No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.


Smiles.


Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.


Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Nice, Mads! Clever monkey!
 
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