[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Yes the missing link, it's exactly what I mean, found it, this morning, in the mirror, if I had only looked before…, well if I had, I might have never left the house, from now I will just stay in the workshop, curtains down and dimmed lights. My ohhh, just realizing my GF should have a medal or a guide dog, well perhaps this is why, she insist on the lights off…

Happy new year.

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hi Joe.
Thanks.
The dos were designed ad delivered with a threaded hole. I just cleaned up the outside. I used that thread to hold them in the drill press.
Smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Router template square - Festool MFS type

Router template square
Festool MFS type.

Yet another jig… a template for routing square holes or rabbets, with any router.

Inspired by the Festool MFS, I wanted a simple template, to use with my routers, so I could make a easy fast setup and didn't have to make a new template for each project.
Why not just buy the Festool template?
Well a price tag of 3725dkk / 580usd / 500euro…
Do I need to say more?

There are hundreds of these DIY versions out there on the web, there are three types, those who use a T-track on the side of a board, those who have a routed T-track in to the board and finally the more prof aluminium profile versions. I went for the last because I wanted this to be another recycle project and just found some laminated solid wood core board cut offs in the street, where my workshop is, also I'm a hobbyist, so it will not be heavily abused and yes, I have to pay the cost, out of my own pocket.

Due to the recycle elements and the fact that I had the router bit to route the slot, the price of my template, was 20dkk / 3usd / 3,7euro, for the eight hex head bolts and washers, in other words 1/186 of the price.

Starting at the table saw, the recycled laminated wood were cut up into strips.

Laminate fiber board and solid wood core.
I think it was shelf material, to make some stronger shelf's for some bookcases, judging from the rest of the trash I saw there.

To make the T-slots, this router bit will be used, actually bought it to make keyhole hanging, for another project years back, now it finally get to use again.

Marking app depth.

Setting the table saw.

Test cuts.

Running the strips through the table saw.

I do this to take some stress of the wood and the router bit.

Test, test, test.

To make sure I find the right spot for the T-slot.
As you can see, I put a fence on each side of the router bit, to make sure it did not move.

T-tracks routed.

Are they spot on?

Nope, but fine enough, as long as you keep the same side down or up.

Marking up for the hardware holes.

Do you get the picture?

At the drill press.

Let's drill.

Circe centre hole.

Dust exit hole.

Now the big hole can be drilled.
The drilling with these cup drill bits are much easier, when you have a dust exit hole.

Hole in one!
it's just dust, there are no tear out, as I turn half ways and drill from other side.

Sides are squared up with a fine tooth jigsaw blade.

I had some flat bar metal in a junk box and decided to go all in on the hardware part.
Here rounding ends.

That's it.

Nice! :-D

Don't get to close to disc sanders, here I were lucky it was just the nail.
Yes I know I have the worn hands of a working man.

Marking.

Making a test threading.

That's fine.
I pre drilled a 4,5mm hole, the threaded a 5mm thread.

Using a drill for the rest, to speed up a wee bit.

We got hardware.
If you are to lazy for this, or don't have the tools, you can just use T-square bolts, it will be fine, this is just a little stronger and put the stress load over a bigger area. If you make them with T-tracks or alu, this would be waste of time.

Marking for bolt holes.

Drilling the bolt holes.

Here we are, the hard part is over.
You might notice I also rounded the edges with a 45degree router bit.

My bolts were a tiny bit too long, so I decided to adjust them, instead of just putting more washers.

That's it.

Test fitting and it seems to be perfect now.
Here you can get the picture of how it works.

To make all bolts same length, I cut a piece of plywood to the correct depth and drilled a hole in it.

So the too much part was sticking out.

Then it was done in no time and they were all the same.

Cleaning up with sandpaper.

Waxing the tracks.

And taddddaaaaaa we got a template.
Mine is a 900mm version, so I can cut rabbets in cabinets if needed.

Loosen bolts and slide to desired size.

Then tighten, it's that easy to use.

Checking for square and it's all fine.
(Also on diagonal).

Now you can route with a bush bearing bit or a copy ring on your router

Job done.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some templates.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Router template square - Festool MFS type

Router template square
Festool MFS type.

Yet another jig… a template for routing square holes or rabbets, with any router.

Inspired by the Festool MFS, I wanted a simple template, to use with my routers, so I could make a easy fast setup and didn't have to make a new template for each project.
Why not just buy the Festool template?
Well a price tag of 3725dkk / 580usd / 500euro…
Do I need to say more?

There are hundreds of these DIY versions out there on the web, there are three types, those who use a T-track on the side of a board, those who have a routed T-track in to the board and finally the more prof aluminium profile versions. I went for the last because I wanted this to be another recycle project and just found some laminated solid wood core board cut offs in the street, where my workshop is, also I'm a hobbyist, so it will not be heavily abused and yes, I have to pay the cost, out of my own pocket.

Due to the recycle elements and the fact that I had the router bit to route the slot, the price of my template, was 20dkk / 3usd / 3,7euro, for the eight hex head bolts and washers, in other words 1/186 of the price.

Starting at the table saw, the recycled laminated wood were cut up into strips.

Laminate fiber board and solid wood core.
I think it was shelf material, to make some stronger shelf's for some bookcases, judging from the rest of the trash I saw there.

To make the T-slots, this router bit will be used, actually bought it to make keyhole hanging, for another project years back, now it finally get to use again.

Marking app depth.

Setting the table saw.

Test cuts.

Running the strips through the table saw.

I do this to take some stress of the wood and the router bit.

Test, test, test.

To make sure I find the right spot for the T-slot.
As you can see, I put a fence on each side of the router bit, to make sure it did not move.

T-tracks routed.

Are they spot on?

Nope, but fine enough, as long as you keep the same side down or up.

Marking up for the hardware holes.

Do you get the picture?

At the drill press.

Let's drill.

Circe centre hole.

Dust exit hole.

Now the big hole can be drilled.
The drilling with these cup drill bits are much easier, when you have a dust exit hole.

Hole in one!
it's just dust, there are no tear out, as I turn half ways and drill from other side.

Sides are squared up with a fine tooth jigsaw blade.

I had some flat bar metal in a junk box and decided to go all in on the hardware part.
Here rounding ends.

That's it.

Nice! :-D

Don't get to close to disc sanders, here I were lucky it was just the nail.
Yes I know I have the worn hands of a working man.

Marking.

Making a test threading.

That's fine.
I pre drilled a 4,5mm hole, the threaded a 5mm thread.

Using a drill for the rest, to speed up a wee bit.

We got hardware.
If you are to lazy for this, or don't have the tools, you can just use T-square bolts, it will be fine, this is just a little stronger and put the stress load over a bigger area. If you make them with T-tracks or alu, this would be waste of time.

Marking for bolt holes.

Drilling the bolt holes.

Here we are, the hard part is over.
You might notice I also rounded the edges with a 45degree router bit.

My bolts were a tiny bit too long, so I decided to adjust them, instead of just putting more washers.

That's it.

Test fitting and it seems to be perfect now.
Here you can get the picture of how it works.

To make all bolts same length, I cut a piece of plywood to the correct depth and drilled a hole in it.

So the too much part was sticking out.

Then it was done in no time and they were all the same.

Cleaning up with sandpaper.

Waxing the tracks.

And taddddaaaaaa we got a template.
Mine is a 900mm version, so I can cut rabbets in cabinets if needed.

Loosen bolts and slide to desired size.

Then tighten, it's that easy to use.

Checking for square and it's all fine.
(Also on diagonal).

Now you can route with a bush bearing bit or a copy ring on your router

Job done.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some templates.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi guys,

Jim,

Brico, Hi Serge, long time since I heard from you, how wonderful. Hope life is good and you still 'make stuff', I will have to give your www a visit soon. Yes this project is just up your alley. Thank you.

Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Router template square - Festool MFS type

Router template square
Festool MFS type.

Yet another jig… a template for routing square holes or rabbets, with any router.

Inspired by the Festool MFS, I wanted a simple template, to use with my routers, so I could make a easy fast setup and didn't have to make a new template for each project.
Why not just buy the Festool template?
Well a price tag of 3725dkk / 580usd / 500euro…
Do I need to say more?

There are hundreds of these DIY versions out there on the web, there are three types, those who use a T-track on the side of a board, those who have a routed T-track in to the board and finally the more prof aluminium profile versions. I went for the last because I wanted this to be another recycle project and just found some laminated solid wood core board cut offs in the street, where my workshop is, also I'm a hobbyist, so it will not be heavily abused and yes, I have to pay the cost, out of my own pocket.

Due to the recycle elements and the fact that I had the router bit to route the slot, the price of my template, was 20dkk / 3usd / 3,7euro, for the eight hex head bolts and washers, in other words 1/186 of the price.

Starting at the table saw, the recycled laminated wood were cut up into strips.

Laminate fiber board and solid wood core.
I think it was shelf material, to make some stronger shelf's for some bookcases, judging from the rest of the trash I saw there.

To make the T-slots, this router bit will be used, actually bought it to make keyhole hanging, for another project years back, now it finally get to use again.

Marking app depth.

Setting the table saw.

Test cuts.

Running the strips through the table saw.

I do this to take some stress of the wood and the router bit.

Test, test, test.

To make sure I find the right spot for the T-slot.
As you can see, I put a fence on each side of the router bit, to make sure it did not move.

T-tracks routed.

Are they spot on?

Nope, but fine enough, as long as you keep the same side down or up.

Marking up for the hardware holes.

Do you get the picture?

At the drill press.

Let's drill.

Circe centre hole.

Dust exit hole.

Now the big hole can be drilled.
The drilling with these cup drill bits are much easier, when you have a dust exit hole.

Hole in one!
it's just dust, there are no tear out, as I turn half ways and drill from other side.

Sides are squared up with a fine tooth jigsaw blade.

I had some flat bar metal in a junk box and decided to go all in on the hardware part.
Here rounding ends.

That's it.

Nice! :-D

Don't get to close to disc sanders, here I were lucky it was just the nail.
Yes I know I have the worn hands of a working man.

Marking.

Making a test threading.

That's fine.
I pre drilled a 4,5mm hole, the threaded a 5mm thread.

Using a drill for the rest, to speed up a wee bit.

We got hardware.
If you are to lazy for this, or don't have the tools, you can just use T-square bolts, it will be fine, this is just a little stronger and put the stress load over a bigger area. If you make them with T-tracks or alu, this would be waste of time.

Marking for bolt holes.

Drilling the bolt holes.

Here we are, the hard part is over.
You might notice I also rounded the edges with a 45degree router bit.

My bolts were a tiny bit too long, so I decided to adjust them, instead of just putting more washers.

That's it.

Test fitting and it seems to be perfect now.
Here you can get the picture of how it works.

To make all bolts same length, I cut a piece of plywood to the correct depth and drilled a hole in it.

So the too much part was sticking out.

Then it was done in no time and they were all the same.

Cleaning up with sandpaper.

Waxing the tracks.

And taddddaaaaaa we got a template.
Mine is a 900mm version, so I can cut rabbets in cabinets if needed.

Loosen bolts and slide to desired size.

Then tighten, it's that easy to use.

Checking for square and it's all fine.
(Also on diagonal).

Now you can route with a bush bearing bit or a copy ring on your router

Job done.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some templates.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi Dave P & Lew.

Thank you both for your always kind comments and friendship.

Best thoughts guys,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)

Table saw joinery jig DIY
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.

Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.

Might be the hot wine…

Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.

The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.

Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.

Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts.
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).

Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.

Cut to length of the jig.

Small spacers in same width.

Will be constructed like this, for stability.

Back side.

Marking up, where the parts go.

Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.

The centre can be found now.

To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.

Glue time!

Everything ready.

Glue up.

All in place.

Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.

Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.

The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.

Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…

This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.

Do you get it?

Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.

The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.

To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.

I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed.
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.

Marks for screws.

I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.

A straight edge onto the line I marked up.

The 5 cm plywood strips.

Put against the straight edge.

A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.

Marking up where the toggle clamp go.

Pre drill.

Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.

Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.

So it can go like this.

Thinner spacers on top.

Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.

The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.

No more talk, let's test it.

A piece of wood clamped in.

You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.

First cut made, looks good.

The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.

Un clamp toggle.

Looks fine to me.

Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.

The jig is put on the fence.

Back side.

Wood piece put in place.

Clamped down.

This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.

Let's saw!

First cut made.

Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.

Clamped in place.

Second cut made, this makes it dead center.

Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.

We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use:

All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.

Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.

Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)

Table saw joinery jig DIY
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.

Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.

Might be the hot wine…

Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.

The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.

Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.

Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts.
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).

Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.

Cut to length of the jig.

Small spacers in same width.

Will be constructed like this, for stability.

Back side.

Marking up, where the parts go.

Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.

The centre can be found now.

To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.

Glue time!

Everything ready.

Glue up.

All in place.

Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.

Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.

The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.

Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…

This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.

Do you get it?

Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.

The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.

To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.

I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed.
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.

Marks for screws.

I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.

A straight edge onto the line I marked up.

The 5 cm plywood strips.

Put against the straight edge.

A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.

Marking up where the toggle clamp go.

Pre drill.

Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.

Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.

So it can go like this.

Thinner spacers on top.

Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.

The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.

No more talk, let's test it.

A piece of wood clamped in.

You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.

First cut made, looks good.

The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.

Un clamp toggle.

Looks fine to me.

Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.

The jig is put on the fence.

Back side.

Wood piece put in place.

Clamped down.

This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.

Let's saw!

First cut made.

Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.

Clamped in place.

Second cut made, this makes it dead center.

Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.

We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use:

All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.

Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.

Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi guys,

icemanhank, dear David thanks with a big warm Christmas smile, bad humor is better than no humor (I think…), my daughter Mathilde call my humor granddad humor, she might have a point, ho ho ho.

Dave Polaschek, Thanks Dave, the same to you and the family.

lew, Big smile dear Lew, Merry ChristMads from Copenhagen.

torus, I had actually taken two toggles out to mount, as I thought like you, but one are so tight, that I can't move the piece, so I just stayed there and then think I'll use a clamp, if doing longer or heavier pieces.
You will not regret building one, it takes no time and is surprisingly sturdy, but most of all easy to use and no mounting time, just adjust the toggle, or go all in with clamps, I were thinking to make two grooves and use my Festool track clamps, but just wanted to use a toggle, for the fun of it, as I had some. I think I'll put a wing nut on the toggle clamp, just to make it tool free to operate it.

snowdog, Thanks a lot, the Christmas spirit are starting to grow here, I think I'll go to my workshop to get all bosted of Santas workshop mood, before going to my brothers house, to celebrate the evening. I hope, trust me I do. Smiles. Happy new year!

Best thoughts and a big smile,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)

Table saw joinery jig DIY
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.

Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.

Might be the hot wine…

Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.

The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.

Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.

Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts.
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).

Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.

Cut to length of the jig.

Small spacers in same width.

Will be constructed like this, for stability.

Back side.

Marking up, where the parts go.

Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.

The centre can be found now.

To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.

Glue time!

Everything ready.

Glue up.

All in place.

Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.

Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.

The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.

Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…

This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.

Do you get it?

Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.

The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.

To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.

I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed.
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.

Marks for screws.

I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.

A straight edge onto the line I marked up.

The 5 cm plywood strips.

Put against the straight edge.

A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.

Marking up where the toggle clamp go.

Pre drill.

Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.

Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.

So it can go like this.

Thinner spacers on top.

Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.

The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.

No more talk, let's test it.

A piece of wood clamped in.

You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.

First cut made, looks good.

The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.

Un clamp toggle.

Looks fine to me.

Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.

The jig is put on the fence.

Back side.

Wood piece put in place.

Clamped down.

This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.

Let's saw!

First cut made.

Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.

Clamped in place.

Second cut made, this makes it dead center.

Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.

We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use:

All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.

Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.

Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi,

doubleDD, LOL, yes I better be showing… Thanks with a smile. Merry Christmas to you and the family.

Jim Jakosh, Thank you, this one was so simple, that I felt almost stupid I did not make one earlier, laughs. So I thought it was worth sharing. My table is also the one for my router, I just put in a different top and this means that any jug made for the table saw also goes for the router, so here it can get a double use. Cheers and Merry Christmas dear Jim.

Best of my thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)

Table saw joinery jig DIY
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.

Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.

Might be the hot wine…

Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.

The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.

Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.

Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts.
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).

Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.

Cut to length of the jig.

Small spacers in same width.

Will be constructed like this, for stability.

Back side.

Marking up, where the parts go.

Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.

The centre can be found now.

To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.

Glue time!

Everything ready.

Glue up.

All in place.

Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.

Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.

The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.

Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…

This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.

Do you get it?

Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.

The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.

To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.

I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed.
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.

Marks for screws.

I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.

A straight edge onto the line I marked up.

The 5 cm plywood strips.

Put against the straight edge.

A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.

Marking up where the toggle clamp go.

Pre drill.

Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.

Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.

So it can go like this.

Thinner spacers on top.

Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.

The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.

No more talk, let's test it.

A piece of wood clamped in.

You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.

First cut made, looks good.

The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.

Un clamp toggle.

Looks fine to me.

Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.

The jig is put on the fence.

Back side.

Wood piece put in place.

Clamped down.

This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.

Let's saw!

First cut made.

Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.

Clamped in place.

Second cut made, this makes it dead center.

Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.

We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use:

All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.

Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.

Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Just made a www search and found a few links for inspiration:
https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/adjustable-tenon-jig/
https://www.woodsmith.com/article/table-saw-tricks-for-making-vertical-cuts-how-to-cut-rabbets-with-a-tall-fence/
https://www.woodsmith.com/article/versatile-table-saw-jig/
Perhaps this was where I got the inspiration at the first place, I remember it was one with a toggle clamp!. Here they also put the stop and toggle on the back and made different front plates for it, clever, even though I think I would rater just make a few jigs as they are so easy to make.:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/01/07/free-plan-3-in-1-joinery-jig-for-the-tablesaw
The down side to this, is that it will not function as a tear out block, but I think it will be more clever to make that as a loose item anyhow, as it will be destroyed…
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/04/22/a-slick-tenoning-jig
This one is quite cool also, if you have a wider fence.
https://www.google.com/search?q=table+saw+multi+jig&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiatKTN9P70AhWOxioKHcCwDzIQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=table+saw+multi+jig&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECAAQEzoGCAAQBxAeOggIABAIEAcQHlCjEljlMWCHNWgCcAB4AIABcIgBmAaSAQM0LjSYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&sclient=img&ei=CQnHYdqLLo6NqwHA4b6QAw&bih=792&biw=1519&hl=da#imgrc=PBgCywCTENYvlM&imgdii=za23Or9IwdIFDM
Another type, with drawings.

I love the internet!
Remember as a boy, I had to go to the library to find inspiration and carry home stacks of books, now it's just a click away.