[mafe]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Brit, Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha, thank you Andy!
I love that portrait you made of me, it's just how I see my self.
What drill press? Ahhh the green one that makes me smile! :-D
Thanks Andy.
Lew, funny I also like the new one better, it's more woodworking and less machine. Thanks.
Pottz, Those are really kind words thank you, I try my best and as I tell my daughter, when we do that, we will have nothing to regret. Touched thank you.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go
Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Once in a while I need a number of repetitive cuts with my track saw, when I'm out of the house. Of course I can measure and mark again and again, but I wanted an easier way, especially when it more than just a few.

So let's go to the workshop and make things happen. ;-)

This is what we will be making - the two arms attached to the track, that has stops so they can be set for a fixed distance. If you don't get it, just come along and you will, once we are done with the blog.
As you can see it's three parts, a connection piece to the track, a T-track and a stop block.
(I'll make a video if anyone still don't get it - smiles).

Let's get started:

We will start with the connection block to the track.
Here are the track that we need to connect to, it will be done with some high quality plywood.

First cutting a rabbet on the table saw.

Ok, let's make a big one, while we are at it.

Cut them into smaller.

I also made a cut like this, to narrow the width of the hook.
(You will see - and need to adjust this to your track system, if not Festool).

A rabbet the other way, this time the width of a T-track, I just used some old curtain hanger T-track I had in the shop.
I use a stop, to stop before the end of the track.

Clean up the rabbets, this can be done with a chisel also.

Now for the stop blocks while we are in the rabbet mode.
Just some plywood where a rabbet is cut by repetitive cuts, so they will fit the width of the T-track (curtain track).
The blue tape holds the two pieces together, since I had cut them first (not so clever me).

We got rabbets.

Let's put this thing together!
Gluing the T-track to the connection piece, make sure they are flush with the other rabbet.
Some ultra fast epoxy, so I can get on with the project.

Making some T-track bolts out of standard flat head bolts.
(I had them in the shop).

Out of focus, drilling holes for the bolts.

As easy as that.
Bolts, washers, wing nuts and we got stops.

Works just fine.

I don't trust in the epoxy alone, so I'll screw it in place also.
Holes and counter sink.

Bolts.

Self locking nuts.
Now it should stay.

It works, we are right on track.
Again a hole, a home made T-track bolt, washer and wing nut.

So here we are, two arms for repetitive cuts.
For the clever reader, yes there are a limit to the width, as the stops only go to the edge of the track - so what do we do if we need something smaller? - we just make a spacer that we put between the stops and the track, so i's not a problem.

I made mine plenty long, so I can cut just over half a plywood sheet.

Here they are.
As you can see, I put little extension blocks on the stops, this was so they are extruding low enough to catch the sheet you cut.

Attachment piece.

Named and marked.
Also put a stop with a string, so I can hang them up, when they are not in use.

Here hanging on the workshop wall, waiting for a day to be used.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or just keep some one on track…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._

Track saw track hold downs
using the scraps…

This is just a little extra, made from the left overs from the repetitive cut's jig.
When I made the attachments in the last blog, I made the first of them a wee short, so I trashed them.
Then I remembered I saw somewhere this alternative way of holding, the track to the table and made me a pair.
(I think it was on the Festool owners group page, so there's credit for someone there).

This is how it works, but it will be especially useful on the go, where you can clamp the track to anything, using standard clamps.

The making…
The rest can be seen in last blog, so I will not be a parrot here.

Put a spacer under, so the hold is just a wee lower than the track, just enough to hold it down when the clamp is tightened.

Front and back.

That's it, ready to go.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it sure was an easy one.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.

Shelf pin holes for track routers
Festool LR32 alternative.

I am planning to make a bookcase wall for my allotment house and would like moveable shelf's, so it was time to take up an old project idea:
Making a jig that can be used with my Festool tracks and router, to make repetitive shelf pin holes for cabinets.
Yes Festool makes one, but you have to buy the jig, a special track and so the price is close to madness, unless you make cabinets for a living.
Here a video in French with the LR32 system in use:

So let's make one!

The router has a base (the black part) that runs on the tracks, I will make an attachment for it, that can reach the T-track part of the saw track.
Then put a hard wood strip in the T-track, with holes that are spaced out, with the type I want, it can be Ikea standard or what ever, here I use some standard aluminium bookcase Shelving Strip that I was lucky to get, years back in Paris of all places, it fitted right into the T-track and had a good spacing for book shelf's.
You will understand all this later. ;-)

A piece of plexiglass cut to size are marked up, so it will fit over the T-track router attachment.

Removing the marked up part.

Now you can see it fits.
Also I cut a strip of plexiglass and put under, on top of the T-track part, this will be glued on, with CA glue.
Finally the two pieces of aluminium are the start of a locking mechanism.
(More about this later).

Btw - you can cut aluminium on your standard table saw, I do that a lot.

Ok removed the plastic and a knob on the jig, so you can get a better view.

Found a good spot in the Festool router attachment, to drill holes for the new part and then it was just to go for my drill press (did I tell you guys I got a new old drill press and love it).

Drilling.

Bolts.

Washers and wing nuts.

We are connected!

So fare so good. ;-)

Out of focus…
Working on the lever arm, making it from a square aluminium bar.

Trying out different ideas, no plan really, just knowing I need an arm, a spring, something to hold it in place.

The lever arm is a good place to start, making an arm that can click into the spacer slot, a hole for attachment, a cut out for the rocking and I put a rubber thing on for a soft finger spot - and because it looks sexy - and I had a bunch of them in a drawer… Laughs.

The pin that goes into the track are shaped and cut to length.

Like this.
(Yes I have now attached the mechanism and was so much into it, that I forgot to take pictures, but you will understand).

Here from the back a counter sink hole for holding the mechanism and one for the pin to go through.

From the side:
1. rubber thingy for soft finger touch and sexy effect.
2. Spring under the lever, that makes it pop back down.
3. Round furniture bolt with threaded hole in it, that locks down the hold for the lever.
4. Lever arm, the centre hole, needs to be made wider, so the arm can move freely, just rock the arm in the drill press.
5. Rubber washer so it can move, then normal washer and nut with locking (blue inside).
6. Pin is made of bolt with nut.

Here riding on the track with the spacer put in the track.
You can easily make these your self, just make a hard wood strip that fits the track and drill holes in the desired spacing.

Other side.

Lever arm clicked into a hole.

When pushed down it pops up and you can move the router.

That's it we got a shelf pin jig!
Happy monkey I am.
As long as the pin is riding on the spacer insert, it's up and will then click down into the next hole.

Video will come here, but at the moment LJ, will not work when I post videos…
Link:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it takes a little twisting, but it can be done.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hi,

Lew, yes I have to admit also it fascinates me also, a lot, if I had a real project for it, I would buy a printer and start playing, but I can't really find any reason and see so many just printing stuff, I feel it's expensive for just some plastic stuff I don't need. But positively jealous and get the feeling of a child in a toy store, when I see them.
Smiles.

Brit, ha ha ha, yes that's just my color. Laugh. The printet versions will come in hand……..perhaps, for now they are just fun and the metal once has already been in use and are really cool.
Hmmmmm perhaps I should go and paint them pink………………………………………………….naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

LittleBlackDuck, what a collection you have there!
I did not make my top, it was the one that came with the MFT3 table, I saw in all directions on it as you can see, I'm actually amazed I had it app 10 years now, so perhaps I should turn it soon… I did put a planning stop in it, but never use it after I got my big workbench.

I have been looking at one of these, it's precision made stainless, like this you can make half a table in one go and don't get the repetitive mis position factor. It's just over 100 usd. Then I can make as many tops and other variations as I want.
Cool hole system you have there.
The Superdogs looks real yummy don't think we have a local dealer.
Yes I'm aware the filling could result in lost precision, I was only filling of the top and the extra plastic, so no danger. On a cut of 70 cm, the 1/10 mm that it can maximum be, will not add op to something that can be seen.

Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Yes it could be fun 3D printing some stuff.
The stainless thingy has 30mm holes. So it's used with a 30mm copy ring and 20mm spiral bit in the router. Quite clever idea.

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hmmmmm I can't make the link work…
Just looked at some of your 3D - amazing.
Yes I think the shipping will make it stupid…
Perhaps you can find a lazer guy there, who can cut you one…

 

[mafe]

Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.

That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.

Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.

A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.

Just like this.

No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.

Smiles.

Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.

Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Thank you Lew, wait until you see my next version, this was where I over engineered big time. Laugh.
I'm retired, so not for hire, love to sleep late, smiles.
Best of my thoughts to you my dear friend.

 

[mafe]

Simple speed square rail square - easy peasy

Simple speed square rail square
easy peasy.

A quick and clean, easy peasy, no nonsense rail square.
As I were looking for inspiration, for rail guides on the big www, I saw this clever version, believe it was at Festool owners group, but could not find it again - but thank you to the guy, who came up with this clever idea.
A short rail square is not as precise of course, but for a lot of construction work, it will be plenty and it can be made in a matter of minutes, all you need is a bolt, washer, star knob (wing nut) and a speed square.

That's it.
18,5 cm / 7 inch speed square mounted on the rail.
Almost too easy, laugh.

Here you see how it works.
Just push it up against the wood you want to cut.

A standard bolt, where two sides are grinded in, to fit the width of the T-track on the rail.
You can also buy a special made bolt.

Just like this.

No drilling needed, just use the angle slot.

Smiles.

Slide it on to the rail, push the square lip hard against the rail edge and tighten the knob.

Work.
I told you it was easy.
You can see the acrylic version, I were working on, on the table, that was what set it all off, this will be next part of the blog.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or even straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi Dave, thanks.
This one is so easy, it's almost too easy… laughs.
It was nice to get, this monkey off my back.

 

[mafe]

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I might redo it, so it becomes like the plywood version, for now it will stay on the wall. It had a purpose, it made the thinking for the plywood version possible, sometimes we have to cross a lake, to get water.
Smiles, thanks, yes I had lots of fun, even finishing it, was not as fun, once I had the plywood version made, as I liked that a lot better.

 

[mafe]

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Here a woodworking video to enjoy:

 

[mafe]

Rail square acrylics DIY - can be made for any rail

Festool / Makita rail square DIY
this one an acrylic version-

This is the first version, I started on, as I went on, I found out, that a plywood version would make more sense, as it was easier to make, cheaper, more sturdy and could be made by every one, but I decided to finish what I started, so here it is.

When doing construction work, its useful to be able to make fast straight board cuts in many situations, these cuts don¨t need to be furniture precise, but within a mm or so pr. Meter, is more than fine. This is where these rail squares are brilliant, no setup, just a pencil mark for the size and you can make a nice straight cut.

This square can of course be made for any brand of rail, my rail saw is a Festool, but I also made a rail jig, for my Makita and even have both brands of routers, that run on the rails.

This is what we are making, an acrylic rail square.

You can buy a rail connector, but I decided to make one, as I have some thick aluminium laying around.
First up, cutting a piece that fits the width of the T-slot, or I actually made it a wee to big, so I could sneak in.

Hmmmm, not impressed with the cut quality, perhaps my metal blade is worn out.

A little sanding and it's a fit.

I read, that you can make them self locking and centring by giving the sides a 45° cut, so I try this.

Like so.

The top a wee more narrow, than the T-slot.

Finding the centre.

Time for cutting some acrylics.

I'm happy with this.
Now mark the T-slot position and leave the edge sticking out a little on the cut side.

Marking a straight line.

Drill holes, I choose three, to connect to the rail connector.

Colouring with a Sharpie.

So it's easy to see where the marks are.
A pointed drill bit is set in first hole and kept there, while marking the others.

Clear marks.

Drilling the holes.

This was where I found out, I should upsize my bolts…
So making the holes bigger.

In the connector also.

Grinded the heads of the bolts down.

Marking for the bolt heads.

A rabbet to accommodate the bolts.

It seems to work, but also make the build too complex and make too much room for mistake…

Other side.

Now it can be squared up.

Mine were not square at all, so I needed to kake the holes wider.

Like so.

We got a square, but I want more stability.

This was where I came up with the slide on thingy, that could have made the whole project more easy…
Also where I started building the plywood version…

Gluing layers of acrylics together.

Making sure they are straight.

Shaping a little to remove sharp edges.

Here you see the underside, basically it can be replaced with a similar solution, to the one I use in the plywood version…
But I will finish it off, as it is all about having fun.

Hold in place thingy profile ready.

Will be mounted like this.

Epoxy.

Clamps to hold it, while it dry.

Carefully took it off, to make sure I did not glue it to the rail.

Small piece of acrylics cut with a hole drill.

Hole in the side drilled for bolt.

Then a hole in the fence.

Countersink it on the back.

Wing nut and locking washer.

So it can turn.

Less is plenty, band aid for fools…….

Back side of rail square.

Front side.

Slide in place and tighten bolts.

Ready to use.

Back side.

One more hole drilled.

Just so it can hang on the workshop wall, when not in use.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some straight cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Thank you, I think the same, that's why I ended up making the plywood version, as I'm planning to use it in the allotment around the house, so it might get some beating. Now the fancy acrylic version can stay in the workshop.
Big smile dear Lew.

 

[mafe]

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Makita rail / track adaptor - with zero clearance.

Makita rail / track adaptor
with zero clearance.

Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with Festool or Makita rails, but this idea can be used for any table saw, if you want to put it on all types of rails.
I simply love this little Makita 18V saw,it's such a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, or at least that there existed a proper rail adaptor for it, so I decided to make one.

I'm completely aware I made another rail adaptor, but I was not really happy with it… I wanted it to be zero clearance, to avoid tear out, so it would function as well as the 220V Festool saw and I also wanted it to be more durable, so one more try MaFe.

So here we have the adaptor and zero clearance.
The zero clearance only takes 3mm of the saws cutting depth.

Let's build it.
3Mm plywood.

IKEA cutting board, can be any brand.

Cut to fit the rail, exactly, otherwise cut a new.
Absolutely snug is a must.

A saw, some 3mm plywood for zero clearnace and a runner made from cutting board.
Almost there…

Some kind of connection must be thought out.
So let's throw in a piece of 15mm high grade plywood.

Marking the rail T. tracks position.

And how deep they are.

To not waste too much, a test version is made first.
This will be handy later.

First the T-tracks are cut out and checked.

Check exactly where the runner goes, this is crusial.

Slowly work your way out.

I made a tiny mistake on the left, so happy it was a test piece.
Also you can see the end is a wee too tall, so it rests on the rail.
So a few adjustments.

But this will work, I'm happy with the concept.

I decided that the saw blade must start cutting 100mm from the edge of the rail, this will be easy when marking.

Still too high on the left.
Perhaps it will need some reinforcement, but let's see.

Lowering the high spot.

Yeps we are there.

This will work fine.

Transfer markings to the big base piece.

Use the test piece as a sawblade deepness setter.

T-track rabbets cut and fits perfect.

Setting deepness for the low rabbet.

Using a sled makes I quite easy, all you need is an extreme focus.

Closing in.

We are there and I also cut an extra cut, to make the edge a wee springy.

Micro adjusting the width, for a super snug fit

Perfect fit, I'm a really happy monkey.

Base, runner and zero clearance.

Cleaning up the runner, as it was an old used IKEA cutting board.

Marking the edge of the rail onto the base.

So the 100mm from saw blade, can be found.

Just make a mark

Have to be the inside of the blade.

Now the table saws base, can be marked onto the wood.

Marking on both sides.

Marked up.

Diving in with a plunge saw.

Cleaning out with a jig saw.

Grrrrr, I were not all awake, so I cut too long with the plunge saw.
Nothing that can't be fixed and the zero plate will keep in all together.
Always look on the bright sides of life.

And with a wee rabbet at the end for the lifting arm rivet, the saw fit's perfectly in.
Now we can almost taste the result!

Cut the zero clearance base to size and attached it to the base plate, with glue and brat nails.

Yabadabadooo!
An adaptor takes form.

The adaptor is placed, so the saw can be powered up and the blade can be lowered into and through the zero clearance plate.

Be careful to hold the saw straight, not pushing to any side.

We are through.

Next up is to find a way to secure the saw into the adaptor.
I was spending a wee time figuring this out, as I wanted it to be a fast operation, since I know, we tend to not use tools that are too time consuming.
So in one end just a fixed hold.
Here a small piece of hardwood will be fine.

Cut a rabbet, that were a little lower, than the hight of the saws metal base.

Then shaped the hardwood, to fit snug and rounding the end.
Made one for each side and glued them in place.

Let's stay in the glue.
Adding a layer of 15 minutes epoxy in the rabbet for the runner.

Nice and smooth.

Added the runner and put pressure, while it were drying.

Now we can get back to securing the saw to the adaptor.
In this end, I wanted a clamping tight solution.
Ash will be the material, a left over from my workshop floor again.
And notice I fixed my cutting mistakes, by gluing in a wee wedge into the saw kerf.

Something to push down here…

Well this might work.

Two cuts on the table saw and we have a L profile.

Drum roll…

Perfect!

A couple of wing nuts, will make it quick and easy, to take the saw in and out.
So marking up, for long holes, so the bolts can move freely inside.

Routing the long holes, using a push block to keep the hold straight.

With my wonderful new router table, that has already become a favourite in the workshop.

The long holes are transferred with a pencil, so the position of the bolts can be found.

I didn't want to get too close to the edge, so hope this will be fine.

First I predrilled with a two mm drill bit from the top, then making room for the bolt heads with a Forstner bit on the underside.

Drilling with 5mm drill bit.

Here you can also see the fixed hardwood holds, they were cut down to the hight of the jig, after the glue had time to dry.
Also please notice my fine new hold downs, these will get a blog post soon, smiles.

The 6mm bolts are now screwed in from the underside.

Well let's screw this up!
Or together I mean.

Perfect fit.
Free of the edge and the bolts are exactly long enough.

Adaptor is made, let's grab the circular saw.

Back end are tilted in, to grab the hardwood holds.

Front end lowered.

Once in place the front hold can be set in action.

Just put it down on the table saw base.

And tighten the wing nuts.

Now we have a base that are completely attached to the saw.

Let's find a track.

Yes!!!

Finishing touches the edges are rounded on the router table.

The edges of the adaptor also, so it will all be nice to the touch.

Even the runner got a wee rounding over, so it will be easy to put it into the rail.

Base edges rounded.

The same with all the inside edges.

I kind of like these little holds.

New adaptor can now replace the old one.
Job done, smiles.

Time to do some straight zero clearance sawing.

Link to video of the adaptor in use:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or straight zero clearance cuts.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi there,
Tim, I think both in the shop and on the road. It can be easily made and adapted to any track. Thanks.
Dave, Smiles, wonder if you got it for Christmas, laugh. Thank you.
lew, It was a joy to make that video, as my daughter were the photographer and we had a great time, did it in first run. Thank you my friend.
Doug, I can highly recommend the saw, I have used it a lot, had no idea a cordless saw and router were such a bonus, the router has suddenly become a favourite tool and I used to hate them. Thank you for the comment.
Best of my thoughts to all of you,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.

Engineers vice mount plate
for the MFT3 table.

When I make stuff like jigs and so in the workshop, I often find my self running from one end to the other, as my engineers vice is in an other room by my big workbench, but the other day I had it! Since I have several vices laying around, I decided to dedicate one to my MFT3 workbench, like this the running can come to an end and I can focus on the work.

I had an engineers swivel base, clamp on vice that I found good for the project, as it was not too heavy and will come on and off, when needed and stored under the table or hanging on the wall, when not in use.

Cut a piece of strong plywood 2 cm thick.
Gave it a 20 mm hole to fit the MFT3 system.
Then rounded the edges for joy and comfort.

Testing it by cutting screws for the router fence I were working on, as I got tired of running and made this add on to the table.
Vice clamped to the plate and plate mounted to MFT3 with a clamp.
It works perfectly fine, but it can move from side to side…
(If you make a wider plate it can be held in two holes and give stability).

I did not want it wider, perhaps even narrower, so I had to stabilize it.
Put a long fence dog through the hole and through the table, to fix the position and locked it down with a clamp.
The a square to make it square to the table.

Made a small fence from some of the off cut and gave it a small rabbet.

Glue.

Pushed it firmly against the table and brat nailed it.

And brat nails from the back.
Might be good to give it some screws also, to add strength.

A bench dog and a large nob.

Knob goes on from the under side and so it is all fixed.

For less demanding tasks, you can make a quick mount, with a clap.
Or a combination of dog and clamp.

In America you are wise, when you use a vise, in England it would be vice…, in Denmark a vise is a folk song - who said it would be easy…

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a song at least…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[mafe]

Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.

Engineers vice mount plate
for the MFT3 table.

When I make stuff like jigs and so in the workshop, I often find my self running from one end to the other, as my engineers vice is in an other room by my big workbench, but the other day I had it! Since I have several vices laying around, I decided to dedicate one to my MFT3 workbench, like this the running can come to an end and I can focus on the work.

I had an engineers swivel base, clamp on vice that I found good for the project, as it was not too heavy and will come on and off, when needed and stored under the table or hanging on the wall, when not in use.

Cut a piece of strong plywood 2 cm thick.
Gave it a 20 mm hole to fit the MFT3 system.
Then rounded the edges for joy and comfort.

Testing it by cutting screws for the router fence I were working on, as I got tired of running and made this add on to the table.
Vice clamped to the plate and plate mounted to MFT3 with a clamp.
It works perfectly fine, but it can move from side to side…
(If you make a wider plate it can be held in two holes and give stability).

I did not want it wider, perhaps even narrower, so I had to stabilize it.
Put a long fence dog through the hole and through the table, to fix the position and locked it down with a clamp.
The a square to make it square to the table.

Made a small fence from some of the off cut and gave it a small rabbet.

Glue.

Pushed it firmly against the table and brat nailed it.

And brat nails from the back.
Might be good to give it some screws also, to add strength.

A bench dog and a large nob.

Knob goes on from the under side and so it is all fixed.

For less demanding tasks, you can make a quick mount, with a clap.
Or a combination of dog and clamp.

In America you are wise, when you use a vise, in England it would be vice…, in Denmark a vise is a folk song - who said it would be easy…

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a song at least…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I made these for the vice by my workbench.

There are a rare earth magnet in the center, this holds them in place, when you open and close.
They rest on the bed, but you could make them go over the metal jaws.

 

[mafe]

Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.

Engineers vice mount plate
for the MFT3 table.

When I make stuff like jigs and so in the workshop, I often find my self running from one end to the other, as my engineers vice is in an other room by my big workbench, but the other day I had it! Since I have several vices laying around, I decided to dedicate one to my MFT3 workbench, like this the running can come to an end and I can focus on the work.

I had an engineers swivel base, clamp on vice that I found good for the project, as it was not too heavy and will come on and off, when needed and stored under the table or hanging on the wall, when not in use.

Cut a piece of strong plywood 2 cm thick.
Gave it a 20 mm hole to fit the MFT3 system.
Then rounded the edges for joy and comfort.

Testing it by cutting screws for the router fence I were working on, as I got tired of running and made this add on to the table.
Vice clamped to the plate and plate mounted to MFT3 with a clamp.
It works perfectly fine, but it can move from side to side…
(If you make a wider plate it can be held in two holes and give stability).

I did not want it wider, perhaps even narrower, so I had to stabilize it.
Put a long fence dog through the hole and through the table, to fix the position and locked it down with a clamp.
The a square to make it square to the table.

Made a small fence from some of the off cut and gave it a small rabbet.

Glue.

Pushed it firmly against the table and brat nailed it.

And brat nails from the back.
Might be good to give it some screws also, to add strength.

A bench dog and a large nob.

Knob goes on from the under side and so it is all fixed.

For less demanding tasks, you can make a quick mount, with a clap.
Or a combination of dog and clamp.

In America you are wise, when you use a vise, in England it would be vice…, in Denmark a vise is a folk song - who said it would be easy…

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a song at least…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hi guys,
Dave P, Thank you. Yes they are always in the way, when they are fixed, I have that issue in my allotment. That's why I mount them like this. I posted a blog for you https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/131987 to show the wood jaws. I like this version, because I can use the vice in both ways, instead of only wood jaws.
Jim, I can imagine, smiles. Yes we do think a lot the same, I have seen that over the years, Thank you.
Lew, +1 for you dear Lew, big warm smile.
Best thoughts,
Mads