[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hi,

Lew, yes I have to admit also it fascinates me also, a lot, if I had a real project for it, I would buy a printer and start playing, but I can't really find any reason and see so many just printing stuff, I feel it's expensive for just some plastic stuff I don't need. But positively jealous and get the feeling of a child in a toy store, when I see them.
Smiles.

Brit, ha ha ha, yes that's just my color. Laugh. The printet versions will come in hand……..perhaps, for now they are just fun and the metal once has already been in use and are really cool.
Hmmmmm perhaps I should go and paint them pink………………………………………………….naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

LittleBlackDuck, what a collection you have there!
I did not make my top, it was the one that came with the MFT3 table, I saw in all directions on it as you can see, I'm actually amazed I had it app 10 years now, so perhaps I should turn it soon… I did put a planning stop in it, but never use it after I got my big workbench.

I have been looking at one of these, it's precision made stainless, like this you can make half a table in one go and don't get the repetitive mis position factor. It's just over 100 usd. Then I can make as many tops and other variations as I want.
Cool hole system you have there.
The Superdogs looks real yummy don't think we have a local dealer.
Yes I'm aware the filling could result in lost precision, I was only filling of the top and the extra plastic, so no danger. On a cut of 70 cm, the 1/10 mm that it can maximum be, will not add op to something that can be seen.

Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

.... I feel it s expensive for just some plastic stuff I don t need.

LittleBlackDuck,

I have been looking at one of these, it s precision made stainless, like this you can make half a table in one go and don t get the repetitive mis position factor. It s just over 100 usd.
- mafe

Two thing mafe,

1. Open up your creative juices… you would be surprised at what you can 3D print (outside the workshop). Most stuff I print is small (135mm x 135mm bed) and the printers nowdays are not super shekels… also if you are engineering minded, they can be fabricated for virtually bugger all… many internet feeds to walk you through.
2. That stainless looks cool, however, how do you drill the holes… If it's "hand" feed of a forstner bit, misaligned bits can become expensive replacement. Whatever system is adopted, if you send out feelers amongst your local woodie buddies (and maybe combine that with any "men's shed" clubs in the area) you could amortise the cost of that "one of use" jig to pennies.

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Yes it could be fun 3D printing some stuff.
The stainless thingy has 30mm holes. So it's used with a 30mm copy ring and 20mm spiral bit in the router. Quite clever idea.

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Yes it could be fun 3D printing some stuff.
The stainless thingy has 30mm holes. So it s used with a 30mm copy ring and 20mm spiral bit in the router. Quite clever idea.
- mafe

Just in case you were one of the few thousand+ LJ members that missed my 3D post, being near Christmas, here's a collection of 3D printed Stocking Fillers (lots of pictures, easier to view downloaded).

Now I do like the concept of that stainless thingy as you described. The copy ring would fit snug and if you used a 20mm (or 3/4" for you tragic USA misguided wretches) router bit, plunging would give a good toleranced hole and you wouldn't have to face that crappy forstner bit bottom out or delaminating ply which stops the plunge.
Downside $100 (US$) to buy and with the weight (and size) of stainless, probably $500 (US$) to ship to Australia…

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hmmmmm I can't make the link work…
Just looked at some of your 3D - amazing.
Yes I think the shipping will make it stupid…
Perhaps you can find a lazer guy there, who can cut you one…

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hmmmmm I can t make the link work…

Perhaps you can find a lazer guy there, who can cut you one…
- mafe

1. Which link… Hope it's not the missing one the missus accuses me off.
2. No need for another item that makes me contemplate which tool I should use. My redundancy bin is bloody redundant.

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Yes the missing link, it's exactly what I mean, found it, this morning, in the mirror, if I had only looked before…, well if I had, I might have never left the house, from now I will just stay in the workshop, curtains down and dimmed lights. My ohhh, just realizing my GF should have a medal or a guide dog, well perhaps this is why, she insist on the lights off…

Happy new year.

 

[JoeLyddon]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Mads,

COOL work…

Question: Why weren't the 3D Printed dogs designed with the threaded holes so they would not have to be drilled?
Using Fusion 360, the threads could have been included in the 3D model.

Interesting approach…

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Hi Joe.
Thanks.
The dos were designed ad delivered with a threaded hole. I just cleaned up the outside. I used that thread to hold them in the drill press.
Smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.

At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.

Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.

Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.

Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.

A bolt goes up into the bench dog.

Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[Jim Jakosh]

Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.

At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.

Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.

Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.

Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.

A bolt goes up into the bench dog.

Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Nice work, Mads. Necessity is the mother of invention!!

Cheers,Jim

 

[lew]

Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.

At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.

Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.

Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.

Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.

A bolt goes up into the bench dog.

Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Clever idea. I like that clamping device.

 

[mafe]

Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.

At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.

Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.

Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.

Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.

A bolt goes up into the bench dog.

Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Smiles Jim and Lew, less is plenty as I like to say.
Thanks Jim, yes I love to go by that rule.
Thanks Lew, I look forward to have to clamp somewhere stupid, where it would otherwise be impossible, Laugh.
But it will be useful many places also on my lathe.
Best thoughts to both of you,
Mads

 

[Brit]

Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.

At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.

Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.

Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.

Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.

A bolt goes up into the bench dog.

Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

That is a great idea and much better than getting the wife to hold the vac hose.

 

[mafe]

Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.

At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.

Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.

Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.

Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.

A bolt goes up into the bench dog.

Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Brit, big laugh Andy, as you know I don't have a wife… I have a lover, hmmmm, I might have to ask her…
Thank you and a big smile.

 

[mafe]

CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.

Festool CMS cross cut sled
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.

Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.

The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.

Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes.
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.

Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.

This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.

Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.

Like so.

Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.

Make sure you get a tight fit.

Do you get the picture?

We have a mount.

The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.

Cut to length.

Using the sled - smiles.

Now the mount can be attached to the fence.

Just screws.

Here we have it in place.

Underside.

Finally in place.

Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[Jim Jakosh]

CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.

Festool CMS cross cut sled
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.

Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.

The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.

Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes.
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.

Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.

This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.

Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.

Like so.

Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.

Make sure you get a tight fit.

Do you get the picture?

We have a mount.

The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.

Cut to length.

Using the sled - smiles.

Now the mount can be attached to the fence.

Just screws.

Here we have it in place.

Underside.

Finally in place.

Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Pretty cool, as usual. That is a slick design.

Cheers, Jim

 

[Schwieb]

CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.

Festool CMS cross cut sled
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.

Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.

The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.

Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes.
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.

Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.

This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.

Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.

Like so.

Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.

Make sure you get a tight fit.

Do you get the picture?

We have a mount.

The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.

Cut to length.

Using the sled - smiles.

Now the mount can be attached to the fence.

Just screws.

Here we have it in place.

Underside.

Finally in place.

Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Not sure why but the photos only show up in the notification of the post in my email but not the actual LJ blog.

Nice work Mads as always

 

[lew]

CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.

Festool CMS cross cut sled
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.

Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.

The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.

Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes.
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.

Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.

This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.

Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.

Like so.

Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.

Make sure you get a tight fit.

Do you get the picture?

We have a mount.

The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.

Cut to length.

Using the sled - smiles.

Now the mount can be attached to the fence.

Just screws.

Here we have it in place.

Underside.

Finally in place.

Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I wish I had your ability to design.

Super sled!

I'm also still having difficulty seeing the images in the body of your blogs- using Chrome. They show up in other browsers, including the new Edge browser.

 

[madts]

CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.

Festool CMS cross cut sled
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.

Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.

The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.

Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes.
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.

Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.

This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.

Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.

Like so.

Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.

Make sure you get a tight fit.

Do you get the picture?

We have a mount.

The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.

Cut to length.

Using the sled - smiles.

Now the mount can be attached to the fence.

Just screws.

Here we have it in place.

Underside.

Finally in place.

Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I am getting no pics. Any Ideas?

Madts.