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Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.


It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.


Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.


Then some ply for the riding piece.


Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.


That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.


So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).


Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.


A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.


Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.


Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.


We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)


Here how it looks on the base.


Another small piece of plywood and two screws.


We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.


Base.


Riding the track, like a horse race horse…


With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880


Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).


To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.


Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…


Cutting on the band saw.


Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.


Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D


Riding block of wood and a flag.


Now we just need to put them together.


Marking the position of the hole.


On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.


Marking up for the hold down bolt.


Saw.


Chisel out.


Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.


Marking up.


Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.


Bolt with washers on the flag stop.


Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).


Cut to length.


We have a flag stop!


Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.


Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.


A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.


A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).


I kind of like the simple one also.


But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.


I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.


Flag up!


Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.


Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.


Flag up!


Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
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Adaptor, for Makita 18V circular saw on Festool rails._

Rail / track saw adaptor, for circular saw
Makita DSS501 LXT 18 V with my Festool rails.

UPDATE, a new version with zero clearance can be found here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/131924

I simply love the little Makita 18V saw, it is a gem and a joy to work with.
But once in a while, I would have loved it was a rail saw, so I decided to make it into one, by making an adaptor.

This is not a full build, just an inspiration tour, for others to use.


The saw connected to the rail with new adaptor.
It runs on the back of the rail, so I don't use the zero clearence strip, as it is set for my Festool saws.
All it does is to keep the saw on track.


From the side.
No I don't saw into the table… Laugh.


This is my 18V Makita saw, this model don't have a track adaptor and only one slot for a fence.


First up is to make a slider for the rails.
I mark up the slots and make rabbets.


Like this.


Sliding on the track.


Next up, I just bend two metal brackets (IKEA closet left over).
In this end, to old the saw base into the fence.


In other end to be attached to the saws front, onto the knob for the side fence.


The cut outs on the rail adaptor is for the motor to be able to get fully down and in the back for the locking lever.


Underside.


Had to k´make an extender washer. Out of some tubing.


Here with side fence.


The extender.


Spring fits inside.


Screwed onto the adaptor.


Also made a little extra thingy.
This is a wing nut.

Underside a flat head bolt.


Bolt head.


Sticking up, so it can catch the track.


Like this.


When tightened loosely, it holds the saw on the track.


So you will be able to lift saw and track in one move.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or keep you on track…

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Very cool Mads
Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)

Table saw joinery jig DIY
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.


Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.


Might be the hot wine…


Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.


The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.


Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.


Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts.
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).


Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.


Cut to length of the jig.


Small spacers in same width.


Will be constructed like this, for stability.


Back side.


Marking up, where the parts go.


Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.


The centre can be found now.


To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.


Glue time!


Everything ready.


Glue up.


All in place.


Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.


Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.


The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.


Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…


This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.


Do you get it?


Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.


The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.


To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.


I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed.
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.


Marks for screws.


I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.


A straight edge onto the line I marked up.


The 5 cm plywood strips.


Put against the straight edge.


A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.


Marking up where the toggle clamp go.


Pre drill.


Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.


Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.


So it can go like this.


Thinner spacers on top.


Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.


The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.


No more talk, let's test it.


A piece of wood clamped in.


You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.


First cut made, looks good.


The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.


Un clamp toggle.


Looks fine to me.


Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.


The jig is put on the fence.


Back side.


Wood piece put in place.


Clamped down.


This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.


Let's saw!


First cut made.


Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.


Clamped in place.


Second cut made, this makes it dead center.


Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.


We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use:


All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.


Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.


Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Awesome Mads, you are so funny too. Merry Christmas my friend!
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