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Vac hose holder for MFT3, or any work table

Vac hose holder for MFT3
or any work table.

Just a tiny practical project, I actually made while making my systainer router table.
Decided to make a workshop version for my MFT3 worktable, or where ever I want to use it in the workshop, just connect the shop vac, when ever I need suction while working on a project, to avoid chips or dust all over the shop and be kind to my lungs.


At first I just gave it a simple swivel base, using a bench dog to keep it together.


Scrap piece from a vac hose, I found in the trash.


Made a new base with 20mm holes, so it can be held in place easy, by dumping in a long bench dog.


Also the size is a bit bigger, so it gives more stability, when free standing.


A bolt goes up into the bench dog.


Finally it can be clamped down, or up!
If you are working on a project, it can be clamped on any where you need dust removed, while working on it.

Little simple practical thingy, anyone can easily make.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, perhaps less dust.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Nice work, Mads. Necessity is the mother of invention!!

Cheers,Jim
 

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CMS cross cut sled fast mount, easy to use.

Festool CMS cross cut sled
fast mount, easy to use.

Here a little idea I got the other day, to make my latest cross cut sled for the Festool CMS table more easy to use. Normally it was screwed in place, with two wing nuts, to secure the sled to the fence, but it meant that I found it time consuming to take it on and off, what lead to often not using it…

So I came up with this little mount, that simply clicks in place and where I don't need to fine adjust the fence to fit to the screws.

I have not made a blog on the cross cut sled, as this is quite basic and you will be able to find plenty of build plans for that, but I will go through it.


Here the sled, mounted on the CMS table, before I made the new mount.
A quite basic sled, that helps me prevent tear out, due to the fact, that the CMS has no zero clearance plate insert.
I have tried to keep it as light weight as possible, to make it easy to take on and off, but in my next version, I will keep the right side straight, so I can get a full runner there on the underside.


The construction is quite simple, a base plate, two fences and a runner, that runs in the groove between the CMS and the long arm for the CMS sled, but it would be even more accurate, if it got a runner on the right side also, following the edge of the table, on this one, it just have a small one at the end of the pointed corner.
The runner is made from IKEA cutting board.


Always happy when I get to the shop and find a letter from my daughter.
She writes.
Hey, passed buy with a school friend on a walk, he is a huge fan. Kisses Mathilde.


Back to the sled, here on the table, with simple C-clamp fence stop and held with wing nuts.
The red half circles are just for safety, to remind me where the blade goes and keep my fingers on each side.


This is the thing we will be making, a mount that simply fits into the T-track on top of the CMS fence.


Let's make the fast mount.
A piece of wood, here plywood gets a rabbet, that correspond to the one on the fence.


Like so.


Hardwood cut to size, made to fit into the rabbet and deep enough, to get well into the T-track.


Make sure you get a tight fit.


Do you get the picture?


We have a mount.


The hardwood is a wee lover, so when it's mounted in the rabbet, it will not touch the bottom of the T-track.


Cut to length.


Using the sled - smiles.


Now the mount can be attached to the fence.


Just screws.


Here we have it in place.


Underside.


Finally in place.


Ready to cut some wood and to be taken on and off in a second, I can already see, that I use it more, due to the fact, that it's not a screw on unit now.
(I must be lazy…).

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a sled, now winter is up…
(MaFe, you got such a terrible sense of humour).

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Pretty cool, as usual. That is a slick design.

Cheers, Jim
 

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Engineers vice mount plate, for the MFT3 table.

Engineers vice mount plate
for the MFT3 table.

When I make stuff like jigs and so in the workshop, I often find my self running from one end to the other, as my engineers vice is in an other room by my big workbench, but the other day I had it! Since I have several vices laying around, I decided to dedicate one to my MFT3 workbench, like this the running can come to an end and I can focus on the work.

I had an engineers swivel base, clamp on vice that I found good for the project, as it was not too heavy and will come on and off, when needed and stored under the table or hanging on the wall, when not in use.


Cut a piece of strong plywood 2 cm thick.
Gave it a 20 mm hole to fit the MFT3 system.
Then rounded the edges for joy and comfort.


Testing it by cutting screws for the router fence I were working on, as I got tired of running and made this add on to the table.
Vice clamped to the plate and plate mounted to MFT3 with a clamp.
It works perfectly fine, but it can move from side to side…
(If you make a wider plate it can be held in two holes and give stability).


I did not want it wider, perhaps even narrower, so I had to stabilize it.
Put a long fence dog through the hole and through the table, to fix the position and locked it down with a clamp.
The a square to make it square to the table.


Made a small fence from some of the off cut and gave it a small rabbet.


Glue.


Pushed it firmly against the table and brat nailed it.


And brat nails from the back.
Might be good to give it some screws also, to add strength.


A bench dog and a large nob.


Knob goes on from the under side and so it is all fixed.


For less demanding tasks, you can make a quick mount, with a clap.
Or a combination of dog and clamp.

In America you are wise, when you use a vise, in England it would be vice…, in Denmark a vise is a folk song - who said it would be easy…

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or a song at least…

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Pretty cool, Mads. I made a similar one for my shop at home, We think alike a lot!

Cheers, Jim
 

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Router template square - Festool MFS type

Router template square
Festool MFS type.

Yet another jig… a template for routing square holes or rabbets, with any router.

Inspired by the Festool MFS, I wanted a simple template, to use with my routers, so I could make a easy fast setup and didn't have to make a new template for each project.
Why not just buy the Festool template?
Well a price tag of 3725dkk / 580usd / 500euro…
Do I need to say more?

There are hundreds of these DIY versions out there on the web, there are three types, those who use a T-track on the side of a board, those who have a routed T-track in to the board and finally the more prof aluminium profile versions. I went for the last because I wanted this to be another recycle project and just found some laminated solid wood core board cut offs in the street, where my workshop is, also I'm a hobbyist, so it will not be heavily abused and yes, I have to pay the cost, out of my own pocket.

Due to the recycle elements and the fact that I had the router bit to route the slot, the price of my template, was 20dkk / 3usd / 3,7euro, for the eight hex head bolts and washers, in other words 1/186 of the price.


Starting at the table saw, the recycled laminated wood were cut up into strips.


Laminate fiber board and solid wood core.
I think it was shelf material, to make some stronger shelf's for some bookcases, judging from the rest of the trash I saw there.


To make the T-slots, this router bit will be used, actually bought it to make keyhole hanging, for another project years back, now it finally get to use again.


Marking app depth.


Setting the table saw.


Test cuts.


Running the strips through the table saw.


I do this to take some stress of the wood and the router bit.


Test, test, test.


To make sure I find the right spot for the T-slot.
As you can see, I put a fence on each side of the router bit, to make sure it did not move.


T-tracks routed.


Are they spot on?


Nope, but fine enough, as long as you keep the same side down or up.


Marking up for the hardware holes.


Do you get the picture?


At the drill press.


Let's drill.


Circe centre hole.


Dust exit hole.


Now the big hole can be drilled.
The drilling with these cup drill bits are much easier, when you have a dust exit hole.


Hole in one!
it's just dust, there are no tear out, as I turn half ways and drill from other side.


Sides are squared up with a fine tooth jigsaw blade.


I had some flat bar metal in a junk box and decided to go all in on the hardware part.
Here rounding ends.


That's it.


Nice! :-D


Don't get to close to disc sanders, here I were lucky it was just the nail.
Yes I know I have the worn hands of a working man.


Marking.


Making a test threading.


That's fine.
I pre drilled a 4,5mm hole, the threaded a 5mm thread.


Using a drill for the rest, to speed up a wee bit.


We got hardware.
If you are to lazy for this, or don't have the tools, you can just use T-square bolts, it will be fine, this is just a little stronger and put the stress load over a bigger area. If you make them with T-tracks or alu, this would be waste of time.


Marking for bolt holes.


Drilling the bolt holes.


Here we are, the hard part is over.
You might notice I also rounded the edges with a 45degree router bit.


My bolts were a tiny bit too long, so I decided to adjust them, instead of just putting more washers.


That's it.


Test fitting and it seems to be perfect now.
Here you can get the picture of how it works.


To make all bolts same length, I cut a piece of plywood to the correct depth and drilled a hole in it.


So the too much part was sticking out.


Then it was done in no time and they were all the same.


Cleaning up with sandpaper.


Waxing the tracks.


And taddddaaaaaa we got a template.
Mine is a 900mm version, so I can cut rabbets in cabinets if needed.


Loosen bolts and slide to desired size.


Then tighten, it's that easy to use.


Checking for square and it's all fine.
(Also on diagonal).


Now you can route with a bush bearing bit or a copy ring on your router


Job done.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or some templates.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Great Blog, Mads. I will be making one!!

Cheers, my friend…............Jim
 

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Table saw joinery jig DIY - Festool CMS LA fence (blog)

Table saw joinery jig DIY
for my Festool CMS LA fence

Merry Christmas must be my first words, as this blog post is on Christmas day, here in Denmark.

I went to my workshop today, thought it was time for some hot wine, fire in the stove and well…
I had no idea what, were just in the mood for a little woodworking, the smell of wood, machines running and creating something useful - as I had no idea, I thought of what I have been wanting to make and here came up a table saw jig, for my Festool CMS, that can be made for joinery. I actually made one some time back, a more advanced one, but the rolling table with miter fence on the CMS, is not as sturdy as I want it to be, when making this kind of joinery, so I wanted something, that could be used on the fence and locked down. Have seen several of these fence riding types on the www, so thought it was worth giving it a go.


Into the machine room, with a piece of good plywood.
I can already hear the jingle bells.


Might be the hot wine…


Two pieces of plywood cut - wauuuuuuu.


The fence is stripped for the side fence and bolts, so there are clean sides.


Now the plywood can be set on each side of the fence, this can be any table saw fence, here just on my Festool table saw.


Next up ripping some plywood, exactly to the width of the fence, this is the only cut that need to be ultra precise, so use some scrap to sneak in, before cutting the wood you need.
It may not be to tight, then the fence can't move and not too lose, then it will not make precise cuts.
(I used some thicker plywood as I had some scraps).


Testing like this, will guarantee that it fits, before any assembly.


Cut to length of the jig.


Small spacers in same width.


Will be constructed like this, for stability.


Back side.


Marking up, where the parts go.


Only one of the spacers will be glued in, so the other one is having a screw in it, for easy removal.


The centre can be found now.


To be marked on other side, to know where brat nails and screws need to go, during assembly.


Glue time!


Everything ready.


Glue up.


All in place.


Making sure the jig is 90 degrees to the table, before mounting other side.


Holding it in place with clamps and brat nailing it in place.


The lose spacer can be removed.
The reason I want to remove it, is to be able to use clamps if needed.


Drawing my fingers onto the backside of the jig…


This is to remind me.
The thumb goes into the jig, rest of the fingers on the back, like this the hand can hold it steady and push it down at the same time, to do it safe and stable.


Do you get it?


Some strips of plywood are cut, here 5 cm wide and the height of the jig.


The maximum height of the blade, is marked onto the jig.


To know where the toggle clamp can be mounted.
Being sure the saw blade will not hit it.


I decide to mount the toggle and the 90 degree stop, in the front, so I can easily see the cuts I make, don't know if it's clever, but it will be easy to move it to other end if needed.
So marking up a 90 degree line on the jig.


Marks for screws.


I screw the jig together on both sides, into the spacers, to make sure it's sturdy.


A straight edge onto the line I marked up.


The 5 cm plywood strips.


Put against the straight edge.


A couple of brat nails, no glue, as I want to be able to remove it.


Marking up where the toggle clamp go.


Pre drill.


Toggle screwed in place.
If you don't have a toggle or want to safe the money, you can skip the glued in upright spacer, so you can use regular clamps on the jig.


Made an extra spacer for the toggle, if I need to use it on thick stock.


So it can go like this.


Thinner spacers on top.


Now it fits the minimum size I expect to use.


The extras are put inside the jig, so they are easy to find when used.


No more talk, let's test it.


A piece of wood clamped in.


You can put a piece behind, to avoid tear out, when making finer joinery.


First cut made, looks good.


The wood piece are mirrored and second cut done.


Un clamp toggle.


Looks fine to me.


Ok, let's start over again and explain.
First set the cut depth for the table saw blade, this can be for a tenon, a lap joint, or tongue and groove, or what ever you want to make.


The jig is put on the fence.


Back side.


Wood piece put in place.


Clamped down.


This is why I wanted to try and have the stop and toggle on this side, so it's easy the set the cut, looking at the saw blade.


Let's saw!


First cut made.


Release toggle and turn wood piece 180 degrees.


Clamped in place.


Second cut made, this makes it dead center.


Now move the fence to clear out waste, this can be several cuts.


We got a groove and I'm a happy monkey, with a new jig.

A video of the jig in use:


All in all it's just another jig on the wall
All in all you're just another jig on the wall
We don't need no education
We don't need no thought control
No dark sarcasm in the classroom
Teachers, leave them kids alone
Hey, teachers, leave those kids alone!
and let us play in our workshops.
Smiles.


Merry ChristMads everyone, the snow has fallen here in Copenhagen.


Here another blueprint sketch, just for the joy of it.
Press HERE for high res blue print.
Press HERE for high res black and white for cheaper print.

www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bluefestoollajig.JPG
www.felding.net/image/pic/festoolcmslajig/bwfestoollajig.JPG

Hope it can be to some inspiration and you all will have happy holidays, with people you love.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
Merry Christmas, Mads . Nice description of the build process…...............Cheers, JIm
 
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