[mafe]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[Brit]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Very clever Mads and I'm loving that drill press.

 

[lew]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Super engineering, Mads! Much better than the original.

 

[pottz]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

nice work mads i always love the effort you put into showing and explainig how you make things,always above and beyond.thanks buddy.

 

[mafe]

Festool stop flag / fence stop DIY - usefull on all T-tracks.

Festool stop flag / fence stops DIY
usefull on all T-tracks.

I got tired of moving my fence stop from the table saw to the MFT3 table and was about to order a fence stop the other day. But…, I decided to try and make one my self instead, why not… It will be fun to try, I got plenty of time, to fool around. Laughs.

It's on the back fence here on my MFT3 table, that I would like to have a stop permanently, so I don't have to get it from the table saw, where I use it most of the time. I have had the MFT3 table for app ten years now and really enjoy this work table, is super cool for many tasks and the clamping makes it brilliant, but the track saw also makes it a gem for repetitive cuts and that's where a stop is needed.

Some hard wood strips are cut, to fit the width of the T-tracks.

Then some ply for the riding piece.

Making a few cuts on the table saw to make a rabbet for the hard wood.

That was easy.
The pencil mark shows how high it need to be, to fit in the T-track.

So it's cut to width.
(I made a few extra, so I have for later projects, now the saw was set).

Thingy riding in the T-track on the fence.

A wee cut out is made in the middle of the hardwood.

Now a hole, to accommodate a bolt, that will lock it to the fence.

Got a new used drill press, it's wonderful, so much more precise and a lot stronger, so I enjoy each hole I make these days.

We got a riding blog, that are screwed on to the fence, with a quick release wing nut. ;-)

Here how it looks on the base.

Another small piece of plywood and two screws.

We now got a simple, no nonsense stop.

Base.

Riding the track, like a horse race horse…

With a MaFe made star knobs… ok it's still just a simple stop, so cool down MaFe. :-D
My knob making jig: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/409880

Ok, I'll step up a wee bit and try to make a Festool style flag stop, that can flip up and down, this simple one will annoy me on the table I think.
I unscrewed the flag from the Festool fence and used it as a template, less is more. (I can upload a picture if some one need it).

To unscrew the flag, I needed to grind the sides of a spanner.

Other ways impossible to get to the nut.
But this works and I have a custom made spanner, I'll never need again…

Cutting on the band saw.

Drilling a hole, to accommodate a bolt.

Did it mention I love my new drill press… :-D

Riding block of wood and a flag.

Now we just need to put them together.

Marking the position of the hole.

On this one, I offset the hole for the lock down bolt.

Marking up for the hold down bolt.

Saw.

Chisel out.

Time to drill the hole we marked before with the drill bit.

Marking up.

Using a Forstner bit and drilling almost through the block, leaving app a mm.

Bolt with washers on the flag stop.

Since I did not have a fitting length of bolt, I just put the bolt in and found out how much space I needed for the spanner, to be able to get out again.
(I used a Forstner bit that fitted the size on the spanner).

Cut to length.

We have a flag stop!

Flag down, it really works.
Happy monkey here.

Extra pieces in the drawer of Festool nonsense.

A stop can be this simple, a piece of an old ruler.

A bolt and a nut.
(Just another one I tried out).

I kind of like the simple one also.

But this was what I needed and I'm really pleased with the result.

I'll use the wing nut, since it's faster and stays with in the with of the riding block.

Flag up!

Important to have clearance when the flag is up, I sanded of a wee extra on the back, but actually did not need to do that, as you can see.

Here the flag fence is mounted on the table saw fence and so the long leg must be used.
It can flex a tiny bit here, if you push hard against it, but it's so little, that it will be just fine.

Flag up!

Happy I am.
It works perfectly fine.
Mission done.
Smile on my lips.

You can make it of hard wood instead or even in aluminum, if you have a table saw blade for that, I am all pleased with this one, so unless I break it one day, it will be the flag for my work table.

Hope it can be to some inspiration.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Brit, Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha, thank you Andy!
I love that portrait you made of me, it's just how I see my self.
What drill press? Ahhh the green one that makes me smile! :-D
Thanks Andy.
Lew, funny I also like the new one better, it's more woodworking and less machine. Thanks.
Pottz, Those are really kind words thank you, I try my best and as I tell my daughter, when we do that, we will have nothing to regret. Touched thank you.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go
Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Once in a while I need a number of repetitive cuts with my track saw, when I'm out of the house. Of course I can measure and mark again and again, but I wanted an easier way, especially when it more than just a few.

So let's go to the workshop and make things happen. ;-)

This is what we will be making - the two arms attached to the track, that has stops so they can be set for a fixed distance. If you don't get it, just come along and you will, once we are done with the blog.
As you can see it's three parts, a connection piece to the track, a T-track and a stop block.
(I'll make a video if anyone still don't get it - smiles).

Let's get started:

We will start with the connection block to the track.
Here are the track that we need to connect to, it will be done with some high quality plywood.

First cutting a rabbet on the table saw.

Ok, let's make a big one, while we are at it.

Cut them into smaller.

I also made a cut like this, to narrow the width of the hook.
(You will see - and need to adjust this to your track system, if not Festool).

A rabbet the other way, this time the width of a T-track, I just used some old curtain hanger T-track I had in the shop.
I use a stop, to stop before the end of the track.

Clean up the rabbets, this can be done with a chisel also.

Now for the stop blocks while we are in the rabbet mode.
Just some plywood where a rabbet is cut by repetitive cuts, so they will fit the width of the T-track (curtain track).
The blue tape holds the two pieces together, since I had cut them first (not so clever me).

We got rabbets.

Let's put this thing together!
Gluing the T-track to the connection piece, make sure they are flush with the other rabbet.
Some ultra fast epoxy, so I can get on with the project.

Making some T-track bolts out of standard flat head bolts.
(I had them in the shop).

Out of focus, drilling holes for the bolts.

As easy as that.
Bolts, washers, wing nuts and we got stops.

Works just fine.

I don't trust in the epoxy alone, so I'll screw it in place also.
Holes and counter sink.

Bolts.

Self locking nuts.
Now it should stay.

It works, we are right on track.
Again a hole, a home made T-track bolt, washer and wing nut.

So here we are, two arms for repetitive cuts.
For the clever reader, yes there are a limit to the width, as the stops only go to the edge of the track - so what do we do if we need something smaller? - we just make a spacer that we put between the stops and the track, so i's not a problem.

I made mine plenty long, so I can cut just over half a plywood sheet.

Here they are.
As you can see, I put little extension blocks on the stops, this was so they are extruding low enough to catch the sheet you cut.

Attachment piece.

Named and marked.
Also put a stop with a string, so I can hang them up, when they are not in use.

Here hanging on the workshop wall, waiting for a day to be used.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or just keep some one on track…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[DLK]

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go
Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Once in a while I need a number of repetitive cuts with my track saw, when I'm out of the house. Of course I can measure and mark again and again, but I wanted an easier way, especially when it more than just a few.

So let's go to the workshop and make things happen. ;-)

This is what we will be making - the two arms attached to the track, that has stops so they can be set for a fixed distance. If you don't get it, just come along and you will, once we are done with the blog.
As you can see it's three parts, a connection piece to the track, a T-track and a stop block.
(I'll make a video if anyone still don't get it - smiles).

Let's get started:

We will start with the connection block to the track.
Here are the track that we need to connect to, it will be done with some high quality plywood.

First cutting a rabbet on the table saw.

Ok, let's make a big one, while we are at it.

Cut them into smaller.

I also made a cut like this, to narrow the width of the hook.
(You will see - and need to adjust this to your track system, if not Festool).

A rabbet the other way, this time the width of a T-track, I just used some old curtain hanger T-track I had in the shop.
I use a stop, to stop before the end of the track.

Clean up the rabbets, this can be done with a chisel also.

Now for the stop blocks while we are in the rabbet mode.
Just some plywood where a rabbet is cut by repetitive cuts, so they will fit the width of the T-track (curtain track).
The blue tape holds the two pieces together, since I had cut them first (not so clever me).

We got rabbets.

Let's put this thing together!
Gluing the T-track to the connection piece, make sure they are flush with the other rabbet.
Some ultra fast epoxy, so I can get on with the project.

Making some T-track bolts out of standard flat head bolts.
(I had them in the shop).

Out of focus, drilling holes for the bolts.

As easy as that.
Bolts, washers, wing nuts and we got stops.

Works just fine.

I don't trust in the epoxy alone, so I'll screw it in place also.
Holes and counter sink.

Bolts.

Self locking nuts.
Now it should stay.

It works, we are right on track.
Again a hole, a home made T-track bolt, washer and wing nut.

So here we are, two arms for repetitive cuts.
For the clever reader, yes there are a limit to the width, as the stops only go to the edge of the track - so what do we do if we need something smaller? - we just make a spacer that we put between the stops and the track, so i's not a problem.

I made mine plenty long, so I can cut just over half a plywood sheet.

Here they are.
As you can see, I put little extension blocks on the stops, this was so they are extruding low enough to catch the sheet you cut.

Attachment piece.

Named and marked.
Also put a stop with a string, so I can hang them up, when they are not in use.

Here hanging on the workshop wall, waiting for a day to be used.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or just keep some one on track…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Once again another good innovation. One note to cleanup rabbits I find the router plane works the best, because you can guarantee a precise depth and never make a mistake. Also I think adding a measuring tape to the back of the t-track, might expedite setting the jig to the desired width. You can buy adhesive backed tape cheaply. Incidentally I made own track for the circular saw just to break down plywood sheets. So no need to buy a track saw if you already have a circular saw. I was easy to do.

 

[lew]

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go
Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Once in a while I need a number of repetitive cuts with my track saw, when I'm out of the house. Of course I can measure and mark again and again, but I wanted an easier way, especially when it more than just a few.

So let's go to the workshop and make things happen. ;-)

This is what we will be making - the two arms attached to the track, that has stops so they can be set for a fixed distance. If you don't get it, just come along and you will, once we are done with the blog.
As you can see it's three parts, a connection piece to the track, a T-track and a stop block.
(I'll make a video if anyone still don't get it - smiles).

Let's get started:

We will start with the connection block to the track.
Here are the track that we need to connect to, it will be done with some high quality plywood.

First cutting a rabbet on the table saw.

Ok, let's make a big one, while we are at it.

Cut them into smaller.

I also made a cut like this, to narrow the width of the hook.
(You will see - and need to adjust this to your track system, if not Festool).

A rabbet the other way, this time the width of a T-track, I just used some old curtain hanger T-track I had in the shop.
I use a stop, to stop before the end of the track.

Clean up the rabbets, this can be done with a chisel also.

Now for the stop blocks while we are in the rabbet mode.
Just some plywood where a rabbet is cut by repetitive cuts, so they will fit the width of the T-track (curtain track).
The blue tape holds the two pieces together, since I had cut them first (not so clever me).

We got rabbets.

Let's put this thing together!
Gluing the T-track to the connection piece, make sure they are flush with the other rabbet.
Some ultra fast epoxy, so I can get on with the project.

Making some T-track bolts out of standard flat head bolts.
(I had them in the shop).

Out of focus, drilling holes for the bolts.

As easy as that.
Bolts, washers, wing nuts and we got stops.

Works just fine.

I don't trust in the epoxy alone, so I'll screw it in place also.
Holes and counter sink.

Bolts.

Self locking nuts.
Now it should stay.

It works, we are right on track.
Again a hole, a home made T-track bolt, washer and wing nut.

So here we are, two arms for repetitive cuts.
For the clever reader, yes there are a limit to the width, as the stops only go to the edge of the track - so what do we do if we need something smaller? - we just make a spacer that we put between the stops and the track, so i's not a problem.

I made mine plenty long, so I can cut just over half a plywood sheet.

Here they are.
As you can see, I put little extension blocks on the stops, this was so they are extruding low enough to catch the sheet you cut.

Attachment piece.

Named and marked.
Also put a stop with a string, so I can hang them up, when they are not in use.

Here hanging on the workshop wall, waiting for a day to be used.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or just keep some one on track…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Clever idea, Mads!

Looks like you are soon going to need bigger wall to store all of your fantastic creations!

 

[stefang]

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go - FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Track saw repetitive cuts on the go
Festool FS-PA - DIY alternative.

Once in a while I need a number of repetitive cuts with my track saw, when I'm out of the house. Of course I can measure and mark again and again, but I wanted an easier way, especially when it more than just a few.

So let's go to the workshop and make things happen. ;-)

This is what we will be making - the two arms attached to the track, that has stops so they can be set for a fixed distance. If you don't get it, just come along and you will, once we are done with the blog.
As you can see it's three parts, a connection piece to the track, a T-track and a stop block.
(I'll make a video if anyone still don't get it - smiles).

Let's get started:

We will start with the connection block to the track.
Here are the track that we need to connect to, it will be done with some high quality plywood.

First cutting a rabbet on the table saw.

Ok, let's make a big one, while we are at it.

Cut them into smaller.

I also made a cut like this, to narrow the width of the hook.
(You will see - and need to adjust this to your track system, if not Festool).

A rabbet the other way, this time the width of a T-track, I just used some old curtain hanger T-track I had in the shop.
I use a stop, to stop before the end of the track.

Clean up the rabbets, this can be done with a chisel also.

Now for the stop blocks while we are in the rabbet mode.
Just some plywood where a rabbet is cut by repetitive cuts, so they will fit the width of the T-track (curtain track).
The blue tape holds the two pieces together, since I had cut them first (not so clever me).

We got rabbets.

Let's put this thing together!
Gluing the T-track to the connection piece, make sure they are flush with the other rabbet.
Some ultra fast epoxy, so I can get on with the project.

Making some T-track bolts out of standard flat head bolts.
(I had them in the shop).

Out of focus, drilling holes for the bolts.

As easy as that.
Bolts, washers, wing nuts and we got stops.

Works just fine.

I don't trust in the epoxy alone, so I'll screw it in place also.
Holes and counter sink.

Bolts.

Self locking nuts.
Now it should stay.

It works, we are right on track.
Again a hole, a home made T-track bolt, washer and wing nut.

So here we are, two arms for repetitive cuts.
For the clever reader, yes there are a limit to the width, as the stops only go to the edge of the track - so what do we do if we need something smaller? - we just make a spacer that we put between the stops and the track, so i's not a problem.

I made mine plenty long, so I can cut just over half a plywood sheet.

Here they are.
As you can see, I put little extension blocks on the stops, this was so they are extruding low enough to catch the sheet you cut.

Attachment piece.

Named and marked.
Also put a stop with a string, so I can hang them up, when they are not in use.

Here hanging on the workshop wall, waiting for a day to be used.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or just keep some one on track…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

The KISS principle sure applies here Mads. Well thought out and very useful.

 

[mafe]

Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._

Track saw track hold downs
using the scraps…

This is just a little extra, made from the left overs from the repetitive cut's jig.
When I made the attachments in the last blog, I made the first of them a wee short, so I trashed them.
Then I remembered I saw somewhere this alternative way of holding, the track to the table and made me a pair.
(I think it was on the Festool owners group page, so there's credit for someone there).

This is how it works, but it will be especially useful on the go, where you can clamp the track to anything, using standard clamps.

The making…
The rest can be seen in last blog, so I will not be a parrot here.

Put a spacer under, so the hold is just a wee lower than the track, just enough to hold it down when the clamp is tightened.

Front and back.

That's it, ready to go.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it sure was an easy one.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[lew]

Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._

Track saw track hold downs
using the scraps…

This is just a little extra, made from the left overs from the repetitive cut's jig.
When I made the attachments in the last blog, I made the first of them a wee short, so I trashed them.
Then I remembered I saw somewhere this alternative way of holding, the track to the table and made me a pair.
(I think it was on the Festool owners group page, so there's credit for someone there).

This is how it works, but it will be especially useful on the go, where you can clamp the track to anything, using standard clamps.

The making…
The rest can be seen in last blog, so I will not be a parrot here.

Put a spacer under, so the hold is just a wee lower than the track, just enough to hold it down when the clamp is tightened.

Front and back.

That's it, ready to go.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it sure was an easy one.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Cool! I like those Festool clamps!

 

[stefang]

Track saw track hold downs - using the scraps..._

Track saw track hold downs
using the scraps…

This is just a little extra, made from the left overs from the repetitive cut's jig.
When I made the attachments in the last blog, I made the first of them a wee short, so I trashed them.
Then I remembered I saw somewhere this alternative way of holding, the track to the table and made me a pair.
(I think it was on the Festool owners group page, so there's credit for someone there).

This is how it works, but it will be especially useful on the go, where you can clamp the track to anything, using standard clamps.

The making…
The rest can be seen in last blog, so I will not be a parrot here.

Put a spacer under, so the hold is just a wee lower than the track, just enough to hold it down when the clamp is tightened.

Front and back.

That's it, ready to go.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it sure was an easy one.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Yet another nice little fix.

 

[mafe]

Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.

Shelf pin holes for track routers
Festool LR32 alternative.

I am planning to make a bookcase wall for my allotment house and would like moveable shelf's, so it was time to take up an old project idea:
Making a jig that can be used with my Festool tracks and router, to make repetitive shelf pin holes for cabinets.
Yes Festool makes one, but you have to buy the jig, a special track and so the price is close to madness, unless you make cabinets for a living.
Here a video in French with the LR32 system in use:

So let's make one!

The router has a base (the black part) that runs on the tracks, I will make an attachment for it, that can reach the T-track part of the saw track.
Then put a hard wood strip in the T-track, with holes that are spaced out, with the type I want, it can be Ikea standard or what ever, here I use some standard aluminium bookcase Shelving Strip that I was lucky to get, years back in Paris of all places, it fitted right into the T-track and had a good spacing for book shelf's.
You will understand all this later. ;-)

A piece of plexiglass cut to size are marked up, so it will fit over the T-track router attachment.

Removing the marked up part.

Now you can see it fits.
Also I cut a strip of plexiglass and put under, on top of the T-track part, this will be glued on, with CA glue.
Finally the two pieces of aluminium are the start of a locking mechanism.
(More about this later).

Btw - you can cut aluminium on your standard table saw, I do that a lot.

Ok removed the plastic and a knob on the jig, so you can get a better view.

Found a good spot in the Festool router attachment, to drill holes for the new part and then it was just to go for my drill press (did I tell you guys I got a new old drill press and love it).

Drilling.

Bolts.

Washers and wing nuts.

We are connected!

So fare so good. ;-)

Out of focus…
Working on the lever arm, making it from a square aluminium bar.

Trying out different ideas, no plan really, just knowing I need an arm, a spring, something to hold it in place.

The lever arm is a good place to start, making an arm that can click into the spacer slot, a hole for attachment, a cut out for the rocking and I put a rubber thing on for a soft finger spot - and because it looks sexy - and I had a bunch of them in a drawer… Laughs.

The pin that goes into the track are shaped and cut to length.

Like this.
(Yes I have now attached the mechanism and was so much into it, that I forgot to take pictures, but you will understand).

Here from the back a counter sink hole for holding the mechanism and one for the pin to go through.

From the side:
1. rubber thingy for soft finger touch and sexy effect.
2. Spring under the lever, that makes it pop back down.
3. Round furniture bolt with threaded hole in it, that locks down the hold for the lever.
4. Lever arm, the centre hole, needs to be made wider, so the arm can move freely, just rock the arm in the drill press.
5. Rubber washer so it can move, then normal washer and nut with locking (blue inside).
6. Pin is made of bolt with nut.

Here riding on the track with the spacer put in the track.
You can easily make these your self, just make a hard wood strip that fits the track and drill holes in the desired spacing.

Other side.

Lever arm clicked into a hole.

When pushed down it pops up and you can move the router.

That's it we got a shelf pin jig!
Happy monkey I am.
As long as the pin is riding on the spacer insert, it's up and will then click down into the next hole.

Video will come here, but at the moment LJ, will not work when I post videos…
Link:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it takes a little twisting, but it can be done.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[lew]

Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.

Shelf pin holes for track routers
Festool LR32 alternative.

I am planning to make a bookcase wall for my allotment house and would like moveable shelf's, so it was time to take up an old project idea:
Making a jig that can be used with my Festool tracks and router, to make repetitive shelf pin holes for cabinets.
Yes Festool makes one, but you have to buy the jig, a special track and so the price is close to madness, unless you make cabinets for a living.
Here a video in French with the LR32 system in use:

So let's make one!

The router has a base (the black part) that runs on the tracks, I will make an attachment for it, that can reach the T-track part of the saw track.
Then put a hard wood strip in the T-track, with holes that are spaced out, with the type I want, it can be Ikea standard or what ever, here I use some standard aluminium bookcase Shelving Strip that I was lucky to get, years back in Paris of all places, it fitted right into the T-track and had a good spacing for book shelf's.
You will understand all this later. ;-)

A piece of plexiglass cut to size are marked up, so it will fit over the T-track router attachment.

Removing the marked up part.

Now you can see it fits.
Also I cut a strip of plexiglass and put under, on top of the T-track part, this will be glued on, with CA glue.
Finally the two pieces of aluminium are the start of a locking mechanism.
(More about this later).

Btw - you can cut aluminium on your standard table saw, I do that a lot.

Ok removed the plastic and a knob on the jig, so you can get a better view.

Found a good spot in the Festool router attachment, to drill holes for the new part and then it was just to go for my drill press (did I tell you guys I got a new old drill press and love it).

Drilling.

Bolts.

Washers and wing nuts.

We are connected!

So fare so good. ;-)

Out of focus…
Working on the lever arm, making it from a square aluminium bar.

Trying out different ideas, no plan really, just knowing I need an arm, a spring, something to hold it in place.

The lever arm is a good place to start, making an arm that can click into the spacer slot, a hole for attachment, a cut out for the rocking and I put a rubber thing on for a soft finger spot - and because it looks sexy - and I had a bunch of them in a drawer… Laughs.

The pin that goes into the track are shaped and cut to length.

Like this.
(Yes I have now attached the mechanism and was so much into it, that I forgot to take pictures, but you will understand).

Here from the back a counter sink hole for holding the mechanism and one for the pin to go through.

From the side:
1. rubber thingy for soft finger touch and sexy effect.
2. Spring under the lever, that makes it pop back down.
3. Round furniture bolt with threaded hole in it, that locks down the hold for the lever.
4. Lever arm, the centre hole, needs to be made wider, so the arm can move freely, just rock the arm in the drill press.
5. Rubber washer so it can move, then normal washer and nut with locking (blue inside).
6. Pin is made of bolt with nut.

Here riding on the track with the spacer put in the track.
You can easily make these your self, just make a hard wood strip that fits the track and drill holes in the desired spacing.

Other side.

Lever arm clicked into a hole.

When pushed down it pops up and you can move the router.

That's it we got a shelf pin jig!
Happy monkey I am.
As long as the pin is riding on the spacer insert, it's up and will then click down into the next hole.

Video will come here, but at the moment LJ, will not work when I post videos…
Link:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it takes a little twisting, but it can be done.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

No that is awesome! Great little video, too!

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.

Shelf pin holes for track routers
Festool LR32 alternative.

I am planning to make a bookcase wall for my allotment house and would like moveable shelf's, so it was time to take up an old project idea:
Making a jig that can be used with my Festool tracks and router, to make repetitive shelf pin holes for cabinets.
Yes Festool makes one, but you have to buy the jig, a special track and so the price is close to madness, unless you make cabinets for a living.
Here a video in French with the LR32 system in use:

So let's make one!

The router has a base (the black part) that runs on the tracks, I will make an attachment for it, that can reach the T-track part of the saw track.
Then put a hard wood strip in the T-track, with holes that are spaced out, with the type I want, it can be Ikea standard or what ever, here I use some standard aluminium bookcase Shelving Strip that I was lucky to get, years back in Paris of all places, it fitted right into the T-track and had a good spacing for book shelf's.
You will understand all this later. ;-)

A piece of plexiglass cut to size are marked up, so it will fit over the T-track router attachment.

Removing the marked up part.

Now you can see it fits.
Also I cut a strip of plexiglass and put under, on top of the T-track part, this will be glued on, with CA glue.
Finally the two pieces of aluminium are the start of a locking mechanism.
(More about this later).

Btw - you can cut aluminium on your standard table saw, I do that a lot.

Ok removed the plastic and a knob on the jig, so you can get a better view.

Found a good spot in the Festool router attachment, to drill holes for the new part and then it was just to go for my drill press (did I tell you guys I got a new old drill press and love it).

Drilling.

Bolts.

Washers and wing nuts.

We are connected!

So fare so good. ;-)

Out of focus…
Working on the lever arm, making it from a square aluminium bar.

Trying out different ideas, no plan really, just knowing I need an arm, a spring, something to hold it in place.

The lever arm is a good place to start, making an arm that can click into the spacer slot, a hole for attachment, a cut out for the rocking and I put a rubber thing on for a soft finger spot - and because it looks sexy - and I had a bunch of them in a drawer… Laughs.

The pin that goes into the track are shaped and cut to length.

Like this.
(Yes I have now attached the mechanism and was so much into it, that I forgot to take pictures, but you will understand).

Here from the back a counter sink hole for holding the mechanism and one for the pin to go through.

From the side:
1. rubber thingy for soft finger touch and sexy effect.
2. Spring under the lever, that makes it pop back down.
3. Round furniture bolt with threaded hole in it, that locks down the hold for the lever.
4. Lever arm, the centre hole, needs to be made wider, so the arm can move freely, just rock the arm in the drill press.
5. Rubber washer so it can move, then normal washer and nut with locking (blue inside).
6. Pin is made of bolt with nut.

Here riding on the track with the spacer put in the track.
You can easily make these your self, just make a hard wood strip that fits the track and drill holes in the desired spacing.

Other side.

Lever arm clicked into a hole.

When pushed down it pops up and you can move the router.

That's it we got a shelf pin jig!
Happy monkey I am.
As long as the pin is riding on the spacer insert, it's up and will then click down into the next hole.

Video will come here, but at the moment LJ, will not work when I post videos…
Link:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it takes a little twisting, but it can be done.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I probably would not have the use for such application, however, I do love your indexer design… top of my plagiarism list!

 

[stefang]

Shelf pin holes for track routers - Festool LR32 alternative.

Shelf pin holes for track routers
Festool LR32 alternative.

I am planning to make a bookcase wall for my allotment house and would like moveable shelf's, so it was time to take up an old project idea:
Making a jig that can be used with my Festool tracks and router, to make repetitive shelf pin holes for cabinets.
Yes Festool makes one, but you have to buy the jig, a special track and so the price is close to madness, unless you make cabinets for a living.
Here a video in French with the LR32 system in use:

So let's make one!

The router has a base (the black part) that runs on the tracks, I will make an attachment for it, that can reach the T-track part of the saw track.
Then put a hard wood strip in the T-track, with holes that are spaced out, with the type I want, it can be Ikea standard or what ever, here I use some standard aluminium bookcase Shelving Strip that I was lucky to get, years back in Paris of all places, it fitted right into the T-track and had a good spacing for book shelf's.
You will understand all this later. ;-)

A piece of plexiglass cut to size are marked up, so it will fit over the T-track router attachment.

Removing the marked up part.

Now you can see it fits.
Also I cut a strip of plexiglass and put under, on top of the T-track part, this will be glued on, with CA glue.
Finally the two pieces of aluminium are the start of a locking mechanism.
(More about this later).

Btw - you can cut aluminium on your standard table saw, I do that a lot.

Ok removed the plastic and a knob on the jig, so you can get a better view.

Found a good spot in the Festool router attachment, to drill holes for the new part and then it was just to go for my drill press (did I tell you guys I got a new old drill press and love it).

Drilling.

Bolts.

Washers and wing nuts.

We are connected!

So fare so good. ;-)

Out of focus…
Working on the lever arm, making it from a square aluminium bar.

Trying out different ideas, no plan really, just knowing I need an arm, a spring, something to hold it in place.

The lever arm is a good place to start, making an arm that can click into the spacer slot, a hole for attachment, a cut out for the rocking and I put a rubber thing on for a soft finger spot - and because it looks sexy - and I had a bunch of them in a drawer… Laughs.

The pin that goes into the track are shaped and cut to length.

Like this.
(Yes I have now attached the mechanism and was so much into it, that I forgot to take pictures, but you will understand).

Here from the back a counter sink hole for holding the mechanism and one for the pin to go through.

From the side:
1. rubber thingy for soft finger touch and sexy effect.
2. Spring under the lever, that makes it pop back down.
3. Round furniture bolt with threaded hole in it, that locks down the hold for the lever.
4. Lever arm, the centre hole, needs to be made wider, so the arm can move freely, just rock the arm in the drill press.
5. Rubber washer so it can move, then normal washer and nut with locking (blue inside).
6. Pin is made of bolt with nut.

Here riding on the track with the spacer put in the track.
You can easily make these your self, just make a hard wood strip that fits the track and drill holes in the desired spacing.

Other side.

Lever arm clicked into a hole.

When pushed down it pops up and you can move the router.

That's it we got a shelf pin jig!
Happy monkey I am.
As long as the pin is riding on the spacer insert, it's up and will then click down into the next hole.

Video will come here, but at the moment LJ, will not work when I post videos…
Link:

Hope it can be to some inspiration, it takes a little twisting, but it can be done.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Clever and works well.

 

[mafe]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

 

[lew]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Those look really nice!

I have watched the kids at school (where I used to teach and still substitute) make things with the 3-D printers. It is amazing- especially with the imaginations of teenagers!

 

[Brit]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Excellent addition Mads. Do they come in pink? LOL.

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes - reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

Bench dogs for the 20mm holes
reviews, 3d printed, upgrade and ramblings.

I bought some new dogs for my worktable a few weeks back, some 3D printed plastic and some in precision made aluminium and wanted to make a short review and share some thoughts on this.
Nope it was not Chihuahua…
Wrrooouuuffff!
The plastic version was mainly bought to use for fixture of jigs and other stuff to the table and because I was curious to see them. ;-)

Here they are.
Green 3D printed plastic dogs, from a seller called Yumiland on E-bay UK, price 20GBP for all of them, including the low spacers.
Aluminium dogs and extenders, from the Danish tool company https://www.dorchdanola.dk , 44GBP for 4 low dogs, two extenders and two FS track washers that converts the extenders into guide rail dogs.
All dogs are threaded with M8.

Just a closer look, to see the quality.
I screwed the extenders on top of the aluminium dogs here, they can be screwed under also or you can put the nuts you see in the plastic bag and use them to lock a FS track saw track or a Festool fence to the table, for fast and easy removal.
The black dog on the left is one from a workmate type table and the one on right Festools original dogs.

Close-up of a 3D printed dog, quite amazing what can be made today on a printer!

Here some of my early home made fixtures.
20mm aluminium rod with a rubber top.
Jig holder, with plasterboard fixture that goes through the holes.
The most simple one, bolt, washer and wing nut.
The problem with the holds, was they were not centred up with the holes, when I needed that, otherwise they are more than enough.

I'm impressed that you can 3D print this stuff, but not impressed that there were an edge on the top, this made the things you put up against it off centre… Grrrrr, why did they not just do like on the bottom made a little rounding, so the edge would not be a problem…

Ok, it can be fixed easy, just a short piece of 8M rod in the drill press.

A washer and the dog.
Spin it and with sandpaper or a file remove the edge and round it a little.

Like this.

Now we only have the small lines on the sides that stick out a wee, these also have to be filed off, to make sure the dog are flat to the work piece.
Also the part that goes into the bench, otherwise you risk making damage to the holes in the MDF when pulling them out.
So yes a wonderful value for money, but not ready out of the box - I still think the price are so fair, that spending 20 minutes fixing them are well worth it, so I can recommend these.

Here the aluminium dogs, I'm pleased with the quality.
The flat side on the dogs will help you not make marks in the things you put against them, but they can also be the opper side if you bang into the sharp corner… so a matter of taste - with this type you need to make sure they are flat against the workpiece, when using flat side.
The extender can be used in many ways.
(I have a feeling the dogs are a tiny bit too small since they moves almost too easy in the holes… but it's so little that it's almost nothing).

I found a big washer and a M8 finger bolt to match, so I could tighten them down.

This can also be used on the plastic dogs.

Sawing with dogs.
Put the wood on the table against the dogs - a dog with extender on top and one further up the table.

Now the track can be put against the extenders.

Now you will have a perfect 90° cut.
This is fast and functional if you don't have the track mounted on the table or 45° cuts where you position the back extender in the 45° line of the holes.

I quickly found some bigger finger screws, the small were a pain in the some where dark.

That's it, no more ramblings about dogs, big smile.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, wrrrouuuffff.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

---------------

bench dogs, festool bench dogs, rail dogs, mft3 dogs, festool dogs, festool, mft3

Love the whole Fe$tool MFT concept with dogs. Love that fact that you are prepared to track saw across your tabletop.
NO idea how you made it but by the look of it, it may need a new transplant. I made my first one with a ruler, tape measure, a set square, hole punch, 20mm TCT forstner bit, drill press and free hand drilling for out of drill press reach holes. With that method, there would be no way I'd have faith in an accurate 90° using dogs only.

I used the Parf Guide Sytem (that has now been improved by the new Parf Mk II Guide System),

to build a MFT clone(s) for myself and friends… I have made over 1/2 doz. of them and from table recipients, I have recovered cost from generous friendly donations. Helluva more reliable than my initial attempt.

I have a 3D printer, however, have shied away from making dogs due to tolerance reliability. You need to take care when filling,

as wrong pressure may (repeat may) disproportion two diameters… probably a fools excuse but as we strive for 101% accuracy, all has to be considered.

I have a swag of stainless dogs

which are nowhere as tool friendly as plastic and aluminium… I have blades/chissels to prove it.

While on the topic of dogs, have you/viewers been exposed to the Super dog?

they are great for that flush dog… seated by a twist of the knob… does need a chamfer on the dog hole but the displayed tool or a large countersink.