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Will this matter when it comes to building codes for kitchens, in NY state (if it matters?)

I am considering remodeling the kitchen and want to move an outlet at around 65" high behind the stove, currently with no cabinets on that wall, into a new cabinet above the [new] over-the-range microwave. I think usually these cabinets are wasted, sometimes with ducting for an exhaust fan. I'd like to make a plate rack cabinet there, and have the microwave plug in (instead of hard wiring), maybe in an outlet inside a partition at the end. I can also open the little door and plug in another appliance that may sit on the stove when the stovetop's not in use, like the deep fryer, hand mixer, outboard motor mixer, etc.

This would involve moving an existing outlet that the gas range plugs into about 18", and so an OTR microwave can plug into, plus other small appliances, room allowing.

Thanks for any help.
 

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I have a receptacle in the back of the cabinet over the microwave/range vent and it was done when the house was built. This to me is far preferable than having something hardwired with just a wire poking through the wall, much cleaner.
 

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Built in dishwashers are usually plugged in under the sink cabinet. And I have also seen garbage disposals so the outlet and switch are in the cabinet also
 

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Always check with your local codes because they are the devil (mostly). It's probably okay but they may have rules regarding exactly how it's placed, whether the cabinet is open or has a door, the voltage, etc., etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everybody! Then I will mount the box flush to the wall and make the back of the cabinet open in that area and make a door for the front or a tambour.

Anybody know any code about minimum distance the surrounding wall cabs must be from the stove? I know most wall cabs go 18" above countertop but I do some canning (google Annie's Salsa) and the pressure canner is pretty tall so was thinking 24" from stove to bottom of OTR microwave, but can the wall cabs surrounding the microwave hang lower?
 

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Any outlet that serves counter top space in a kitchen needs to be GFCI protected per the 2011 NEC. Since you plan to leave this outlet accessible to plug in other counter top appliances if needed may make that outlet subject to the GFCI requirement.
 

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Any outlet that serves counter top space in a kitchen needs to be GFCI protected per the 2011 NEC. Since you plan to leave this outlet accessible to plug in other counter top appliances if needed may make that outlet subject to the GFCI requirement.

- WhyMe
Would this be considered as such? It will be ~33" above the countertop… I'm all for safety but do they have a 4-outlet GFCI receptacle? Or can I stack 1 above another on the wall? And is the code for countertop area or entire kitchen? I would probably need one behind the stove instead of where it is now. Would a breaker be cheaper or would I do one GFCI and connect the restof the recptacles downline?
 

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They are OK here. Our dishwasher and garbage disposal both are plugged into a GFI outlet inside the undersink cabinet in the kitchen.

Also seen outlets away from water in a cabinet to handle some of the messes of all the charging stations for cordless mixers, and cellphones, and undercabinet TV's
 

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Call your local inspector or permit place.

Here and in Indiana, circa 1998, a receptacle in the kitchen had to be GFCI and had to be 18" away from any water source, (even lines in the wall including waste pipes or stacks).

I forgot to mention, you are allowed to use a GFCI breaker to service your receptacles up to a certain number.
 

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Any outlet that serves counter top space in a kitchen needs to be GFCI protected per the 2011 NEC. Since you plan to leave this outlet accessible to plug in other counter top appliances if needed may make that outlet subject to the GFCI requirement.

- WhyMe

Would this be considered as such? It will be ~33" above the countertop… I m all for safety but do they have a 4-outlet GFCI receptacle? Or can I stack 1 above another on the wall? And is the code for countertop area or entire kitchen? I would probably need one behind the stove instead of where it is now. Would a breaker be cheaper or would I do one GFCI and connect the restof the recptacles downline?

- matermark
All I can say is what NEC states. It says outlets installed to serve counter top surfaces in kitchens shall be GFCI protected, there is no distance set in the code. The cheapest way is to have the outlets protected by an upstream GFCI outlet. You can also use a double gang box with 1 GFCI outlet protecting the second outlet.
 

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2000W /125V = equal about 16a, significantly more than a 15a breaker should handle.

Still not even close to a 20A circuit breaker.

Remember, your breakers are subject to heat failure. If they are subject to 90-110°F, whether actual or from otherheat from the breaker box, they may fail.
Circuit breakers are only rated for 80% load. If it exceeds that you'll find all bets off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Call your local inspector or permit place.

Here and in Indiana, circa 1998, a receptacle in the kitchen had to be GFCI and had to be 18" away from any water source, (even lines in the wall including waste pipes or stacks).

I forgot to mention, you are allowed to use a GFCI breaker to service your receptacles up to a certain number.

- Dallas
I guess I may have to reconsider that pot filler…
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A typical 2000w microwave just about taps out a 20A ckt. FYI.

- TheFridge
2000 watt??? Is that typical? I thought mine was 1000 or 1100w. I'll have to dig out the manual-the microwave is brand new, sitting in its box since around 2007, on top of the new fridge. I'm using the fridge & stove already, couldn't wait…
 
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