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Now that I am getting more serious and precise with my work and I have a new drill press I am wondering about Lumberjocks opinions about drill bits and other sundry item to-wit. I have always used a Power Hand drill with my work in a bench vise.

I really like Brad Points for wood and Point bits for metalI guess is what you call them.

Is there any way to sharpen Brad Points…

It seems when one buys a Drill bit collection it seems you always seem to use 2- 3 or four sizes

I hate spade bites but use them once in a while. I plans to get some Fosters one day
 

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I have a set of cheap ryobi forstners that have held up well. That's always an option till you get money for a better set.

Forstner bits for big holes, brad point for smaller than 1/4", regular buts for pilot holes because I don't have brad points small enough for #8 pilot holes.
 

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Forstners are the drill of choice for large holes.
Brad points are best for small holes. I have brad points up to 1".
You can make your own brad point bits by re-grinding regular drill bts. If you do grind your own, you have a superior bit because regular bits are made of better steel than most brad points.
Also, once you learn to grind your own you also gain the skill to sharpen them.

The better spade bits are okay, but you have to look for the ones with spurs on the outer edge. they cut a little cleaner.

Be careful with spade or auger bits with a feed screw center point in a drill press. They have to be reversed to back out of a hole and most drill presses have no reverse gear.

I have some Irwin Speed Bore Max bits which have three flutes and cut pretty clean holes, but I had to grind the threads off the feed screw so it's just a point now.
 

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I use brad points up to 1/2 inch. Sometimes, I will use a standard drill bit on wood but only to do a ream, not go through. Forstner bits are what I use above 1/2". I do have one spade bit, especially modified to fit the washers I use on the neck bolts on my guitars. It is a ground down 5/8" Only spade bit I've used in maybe three years?
 

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My drill doctor will not sharpen a bradpoint. For larger brad points I touch them up with an auger file. For smaller ones I grind them and sharpen to a split point. Or toss them. Fuller makes nice bradpoints. I have a Chinese forstner set that I like and use a lot. 50 bucks when I bought them. Decent tolerance and cheap.
 

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There are drill bits I own that have never been used for over 20 years. I recommend buying only the bits you will use and buy other sizes as needed. Basically I would go with basic sets of Forstener bits, brad point and HSS drill bits, but only in increments of 1/16". Those odd sizes like 15/64" hardly ever see the inside of a drill chuck. Of the several hundred drill bits I own, I probably use 10 different sizes on a regular basis; others on occasion and still others, never.
 

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it is possible to grind brad points on a grinder fitted with a cut off wheel. spade bits can also be done on a standard grinder being careful to leave the spurs on the outside. forstners can be sharpened with a good file or carefully on a grinder too. the secret to the Colts is the "nicks" in the cutting edge. these do not line up and break the chip up. The purpose of the spurs is to cut or score the grain while it is supported and can be cut cleanly and then the main edge comes along and clears out the remainder of the hole.
 

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Regarding the Drill Doctor, I have one and it works great. It will not do brad points, but it brought every bit I've put in it back to new condition. Quite a handy thing to have.
 

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I'm probably the only woodworker that likes spade bits. The Irwins give nice clean holes if you start them carefully and drill halfway or so from each side. Don't get me wrong, I like Forstener bits more.
 
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