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Put a .125 radius roundover bit in your routertable. Set the height and use the fence to round both edges of a 1/4" thick board (make the board wide enough to hold on to or glue it to something else). Rip it off at 1/8 wide on the table saw after sanding it the rounded over part. Used to make lots of tambour slats like that but they were usually larger radius. Start with wide boards and cut off 3/8 for each slat, end up with a bunch of slats.

Just be careful. That little piece could be like an arrow if you aren't careful on the saw.
 

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drill hole in board ,
the size of your dowel .

cut partially through where you want the dowel split .


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insert pin the size of the saw kerf ,
behind the blade .

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push dowel through hole lining up with nail ,
it will keep the dowel from twisting in the cut .

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here is your split dowel !
 

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michael ,
you could do the same thing with a thin kerf , jap saw by hand ,
you wouldn't need the pin ,
as the body of the saw would keep it straight .
or just offset the cut and use two dowels .
depends on how much he needs .
 

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David: Absolute Genius!! That one's going in the "Shop Jigs" File of "My Documents" for sure! Thank you kind Sir!

Rick: Thanks for posting that. Think up a few more for David to solve so I can Dowload them ..LOL….

Rick (The Other One)

P.S. Here's a FREE one I saw the other day. RE: Face or Exposed Nailing. Glue it. Nail it. Countersink the Nail. Fill the nail hole. Sand it all down. DAMN! That Filler still shows and clogs up the Grain, especially after the stain or finish goes on!!!
SOLUTION: Just before driving the nail ….put a strip of Masking tape along the line where you are going to nail. Drive Nail. Countersink. Fill Hole. Let it Dry for a few minutes. Sand if Necessary. Remove Masking Tape. WALLA!! Clean as a Whistle!!
 
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