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Nice find talle. I noticed they were clearing out the Porter Cable PC270TS at my local Lowes. Seems like this may be the replacement. I'd be curious to see if this saw will be a more legitimate competitor to the R4512, given that the fence might be an adaptation of the Delta T2 (image hints to split rails)
 

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I'm convinced that HD/Lowes honoring the 20% HF coupons is a statistical minority, akin to winning on a lottery scratcher. Heck, the HD/Lowes near me flip flop on which coupons they'll honor other than each other's (e.g. Ace Hardware?). Now if someone came up with a mind-control device for HD/Lowes managers, then maybe the odds can be raised.
 

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thelt - I just saw this forum thread pop back up on the forum list, and I'm not sure if the question about split rail was for me. I'll go on a limb and think it is (not many other "pax's" on LJ, and I vaguely recall asking about the split rail).

For full disclosure, I don't OWN this saw, I only played with it in the store (I have a Dewalt DWE7491RS due to my space constraints, but regularly frequent other shops and use an older Delta Unisaw, or Sawstops). The split rail is the two piece front rail that the fence rides on. Others who have used the saw seem to note that if properly setup, it behaves nicely.

In regards to riving knives, all (new) saws sold in the US must have some form of riving knife thanks to the UL 987 regulations (https://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/tablesaws-under-siege.aspx), and I can confidently say that the Delta's guard can be set into a riving knife position. I haven't read the specs to see if the included guard/"riving knife" is spec'd for a thin (I suspect it's thin) or full kerf. The important thing to know, is that the knife needs to be (slightly) lower in thickness to the kerf of the blade used but thicker than the saw plate. Most thin (3/32) kerf blades will be fine with the riving knife, but blades, regardless of how good I've seen the full kerf version perform (i.e. Freud Premier Fusion TK), I wouldn't try (personal overkill safety preference, so take it well seasoned with salt) to use with my saw and riving knife, because the blade kerf is too close in thickness to the riving knife.
 

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My understanding is that manufacturers will state 2 thing for riving knife compatibility, minimum kerf thickness and maximum plate thickness. My understanding is in line with what knotscott has already said, you want your blade to be as thick if not slightly thicker than the kerf. I'm not advocating for this (align your machine!!!), but II would imagine a slightly thicker kerf and runout will give you a little forgiveness if the alignment isn't perfect (enough).

Instructions can also be very poor. For example, my Dewalt table saw's (the new one) riving knife has flawed instructions requiring minimum kerf thickness of 0.094" (2.4mm) and a maximum plate thickness of 0.067" (1.75mm). Kerf thickness is in line with most thin kerf blades but I have yet to find one with a plate thickness that is in those specs (I mostly find ~0.07" for thin kerf), including the blade that came with the saw! Needless to say, feedback has been given to Dewalt.
 
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