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Can't help but wonder if it's a made specifically for Lowes. I'd like to get a glimpse under the hood…...the specs on Lowes website say it weighs less than 200#, which is pretty light for a full size cast iron saw.
 

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I've seen TS weights listed that didn't include the weight of the fence too. It's belt driven, which is a positive. Looks to have steel wings. The blue knobs are kinda neat….the split front rail is not. If anyone sees one in a store, please take some pics, and tell us more about what you see!
 

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As far as cabinet mounted trunnions go, some of the modern designs have cheapened them to the point where it's nearly more of a marketing feature than a functional design advantage. The big cast iron yoke style cabinet mounted trunnion brackets are heavy and expensive to manufacture. Some of the newer hybrids that offer cab mounted trunnions are now using much smaller trunnion brackets that are very similar in size and duty rating to typical table mounted trunnions, except that they mount to the cabinet strut instead of the table…...it's still a step in the right direction and should still make them easier to reach and align, but don't confuse them with what's on an industrial cabinet saw or even some of the early hybrids like the Steel City/Orion Craftsman and Ridgid saws. It's still best to take a good look under the hood to see what's there, as opposed to reading the term "cabinet mounted trunnions" in the specs…they're not all created equally. As always, pics are worth a thousand words:

Cabinet mounted trunnions on a PCB270TS:


Cabinet mounted trunnions on a Cman 22116 and Ridgid R4511:



Grizzly G0690:


G1023RL:
 

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I still haven't seen one setup at our Lowes, but from the pics it's not clear that this is a belt drive saw with an induction motor. Can someone who's run it, seen it, or read it confirm? TIA!
 

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Thanks JayT….it's still possible to put a small cogged belt on a universal motor, and call it belt drive. The pic doesn't look like an induction motor, but it's hard to tell. I'm not even remotely in the market, but am just try to get the whole scoop on this saw!
 

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"I am still curious to hear how closely related the guts of this saw are to the Porter Cable PC270TS that it is replacing at Lowes."

From what I've been able to glean from pics, they don't look overly similar….table vs cabinet mounted trunnions, albeit fairly light duty cabinet mounted trunnions.

Delta pics shown above:
Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Auto part


PCB270TS:
!

 

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"I'm still torn between this saw and the Grizzly G0732 for $50 more. Grizzly is only 2 miles from my Lowes store in Bellingham."

Take a good look at both (or any saw if you can) before buying, and note that the G0732 isn't quite full size…it's only 25" deep, which means that add-ons like full size solid cast iron wings, and some fences are going to be harder to fit.
 

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"...lightweight flimsy aluminum and plastic Craftsman contractor's saw…"

Just so we're all talking the same language, your SIL's saw sounds like a benchtop or portable jobsite saw. Most of us consider a contractor saw to be a full size cast iron stationary saw. The term "contractor saw" is kind of confusing, because most contractors actually use a jobsite saw these days.
 

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"....i could not be happier. I've been bragging about this saw to all my friends and now my boss at work wants one. i still have'nt cut anything on it yet,...."


Gotta admire the enthusiasm, but you'll have some explaining to do if it cuts horribly…especially if they go out and buy one on your say-so. Make it earn the bragging rights….put some miles on it first.
 

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I thought this was a front lock fence. Is it possible that the "rear bracket" mentioned is intended to just be a hook to prevent lifting, and not part of the lock down process?

Can someone offer a pic?
 

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Here's a pic from fellow LJ "MoshupTrail's" Delta T2 fence….
Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Rectangle


Here's a similar device used with the Vega fence. The hook on the Vega fence is intended only to prevent lifting, not to lock the tail of the fence in place.
Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper Fixture


Since the vast majority of lateral pressure should occur before the blade, I wouldn't give much thought to being able to wiggle the tail end….that's not what occurs during the cut. The amount of deviation before the blade should be minimal, and is much more critical to accuracy.
 

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I'm wondering if you could elongate or ream out the holes on the trunnion bracket to allow for more adjustment if necessary. If push comes to shove and the trunnions can't be adjusted enough to get the blade parallel with the miter slots, I suppose you could just settle for adjusting the fence parallel to the blade, and hope it isn't out enough to effect crosscuts. I do wonder why they'd design it so that it can't be adjusted….are they that confident about their manufacturing tolerances?
 

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"Is there some other factor that drives the minimum kerf for a particular riving knife?"

I suspect that it's mostly corporate paranoia…there's always a chance of incompetence too! ;-) As long as the blade is at least as wide as the riving knife, you should be fine. Wider is ok to a point, but a blade that's thinner than the riving knife will cause a problem with binding. 2.2mm = 0.0866142". Most 10" thin kerf blades are in the range of 3/32" (0.09375"), and will work just fine…..add a smidge of runout to every blade and every saw and you've still got some wiggle room, so even a blade with a kerf of 0.090" should be fine, which is about as thin as most traditional 10" TK blades get. Be sure the blade, fence, and riving knife are all well aligned. Avoid the ultra TKs and smaller diameter blades with smaller kerf, and you'll be good to go.
 

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"Anyone think scrapping the stock wings and making some MDF/laminate replacements would be worthwhile? "

Definitely worthwhile to make wings or obtain some cast iron ones IMO, but I'd hang on to the originals in case you ever decide to sell it.
 

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Since you've got 240v available, no harm done and very low cost involved with switching. You might notice a difference, but being that it's a 13 amp motor, the 120v circuit would generally be less taxed than with a 15 amp motor, so the difference may be more subtle.

I sure noticed a difference on startup and recovery speed when I switched my GI contractor saw and Craftsman hybrid to 240v, which gives the illusion that there's more power because it bounces back from heavy loads much faster. Every circuit is unique, so the amount of difference seen varies with the particular circuit, and the motor involved.
 

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It will not take 7/8 dado but will do 5/8.
- NolanWoodworx

I have the 36-725 and have done 3/4" dados. The saw is listed as taking up to 13/16" dado with a max 8* blade.

- WhyMe
Many saws require that you remove the arbor washer to fit the full dado stack. It's safe to do as long as the nut is fully seated, meaning the threads go all the way through.
 

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I did get Lowes to give me the 20 percent discount from harbor freight which helped with the cost.
- NolanWoodworx

Did you have to try several times to get a manager to accept the HF coupon or was it your store s policy? I was thinking to try on different days to get someone else to approve it, since that would be a $120 towards a decent blade and dado. The next closest Lowes is 40 miles round-trip and not too excited about that option.

- Big_T
You could always try a few calls first….that way the trip would be worth it. In lieu of 20%, a 10% coupon is pretty easy to come by and a lot easier to get approved….that's better than a stick in the eye, and frees up some cash for blades.
 
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