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I have only made a handful of end grain cutting boards, all without a drum sander. I use a belt sander with a sanding frame that keeps the belt level to the work surface and controls the aggressiveness of the sanding. It also helps prevent any rounding of the edges of the board. I finish with a random orbital sander.
 

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I have only made a handful of end grain cutting boards, all without a drum sander. I use a belt sander with a sanding frame that keeps the belt level to the work surface and controls the aggressiveness of the sanding. It also helps prevent any rounding of the edges of the board. I finish with a random orbital sander.

- Kazooman
Do Tell!!! Can you show us a pictures of your sanding frame set-up?

I haven't yet made any cutting boards due to this very issue.

Thanks tons!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i was at Rockler last week and they had a Supermax 19-38 on display, but the price was $1399 plus tax.
I only paid $1700 for my new table saw last June.
Even the Jet 18-36 is $1199 unless you get it during one of their sales.
Those things are very expensive!
 

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I've only made one end grain board, so I am by no means an expert.

While a drum sander would be VERY helpful in cutting down time, it is not required. If you plan on pumping a whole bunch out for sale, you might want to think of getting one though.

All I did was make a router sled to flatten the board. The router did leave fine swirl marks, so I hit it with 60 grit on the orbital and just went up through the grits from there and it worked out well.

 

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I've made a couple of EGCBs and like others have mentioned, I use some sharp, tuned-up block planes to start, then use my RO sander in increasingly finer grits until I'm happy. I did make one EGCB and used a belt sander in my friend's shop, and I was impressed enough to start checking prices. Looks like I'll be using those block planes a bit longer . . .
 

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I used my veritas low angle jack plane to flatten my last end grain cutting board (after removing glue squeeze-out with a rougher plane). Hardly any sanding required after, so I just used an orbital at 150 grit to better hide cut marks.

Be sure to chamfer all edges before hand planing the end grain boards to prevent blow-out.
 
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