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I know I haven't been active here in a while. I've been more active over at popupportal.com with a whole new set of projects. One of those projects has be heading back over here for a quick question…

Any comments/concerns with cutting aluminum on a TS? I have a ACB1000T60-P blade made by Concord Blades which is supposed to be able to cut non-ferrous metal and plastic. In the past I used it to roughly cut some 1/2" plexi as a mattress stiffener. Now I come to a project that requires me to cut a lot of 1-1/2" angle aluminum and I was wondering about cutting it on the TS. Now that I think about it, it may make more since to cut it on the miter saw.

Questions, comments, concerns?
 

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My Kreg TS miter gauge fence cut very nicely with a Freud 40 tooth combo blade. Nice clean cut, about an inch high and an inch from the end. A constant visual reminder to check that sort of thing!! I'm sure the proper blade would hold up better, but the Freud suffered no ill effects from one incident.

earl
 

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I have a 7.25" miter saw dedicated to cutting 1" x 2" x.188" aluminum angle. I use a non ferrous blade. It is imperative to clamp or firmly hold the stock in place and cut slow and steady. Ii put some duct tape on the saw's contact surfaces to help hold the stock. EYE and EAR PROTECTION and I wear a long sleeve shirt fully buttoned.
 

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you probably should put some kind of lubricant on the balde to keep the aluminum from loading up on your saw teeth. Tool supply houses have something like Stick wax?. It looks like a tube of grease. You just slowly put it into a running blade until you have all the teeth coated. Takes a second or so, but your cuts will be much better. After cutting all your metal, just clean off the saw and blade, and the wood will never know you just cut metal. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)
 

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Any carbide blade will work for AL, but if you are going to do a lot of it, a dedicated blade is better. The main difference (as far as I know) is that the teeth have a negative rake.

As mentioned above, skin and face protection are needed, as the chips of AL can really sting. I even wear gloves if working on the TS (as opposed to miter saw). A good lube for the blade is common old WD 40. I haven't tried Stick Wax.

Another point: don't wear fleece. The chips will stick in it like burrs, and you'll have to pluck them out with needle nose pliers.

On a related note, I tried HF's 7 1/4 inch metal cutting blade on 1 X 1.5 steel square tube, 1/8" wall. Used the RAS, but had to push as with a miter saw, not pull. When pulling, it wanted to feed too fast, and stalled the saw. Had to cut about 20 pieces. When I was done, I closely examined the teeth, and they appeared to be in perfect condition. No broken carbide or signs of dulling. Very impressive.

Of course I was wearing full body armor.
 

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Since no one has chimed in since yesterday I'll add another point: check the blade frequently for chip buildup on the face of the carbide. You can knock these off with a pocket knife. If you don't, the cutting will degrade and there can be quite a bit of heat buildup, which exacerbates the problem.
 
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