[dschlic1]

Good buy! I have a similar saw with a similar fence. On you unit it looks like the saw is missing two of the fence rails that go on the left side of the saw. These are just 1 1/4" iron angles. Check and see if the seller still has them.

There is a secret to setting up the fence for accurate cuts. Underneath the fence head there is a "spring" that rides on the rail (angle iron) between the rail and the table. This provides pressure against the two points of contact on the fence head against the outside of the rail. This keeps the fence square when moving it. If you have any questions send me a private message.

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Actually, my plan is to replace the fence with something along the lines of LJ Member "Hutch's" idea . . . http://lumberjocks.com/Hutch/blog/2740

 

[RibsBrisket4me]

Awesome!!! Congrats Tom!!! Keep us posted with progress pics!

Welcome to the Craftsman 113 club!

 

[wormil]

I've been reading that thread on 80/20 extrusion fences and they discuss it being much cheaper than an aftermarket fence but looks like the cost was around $225. That puts it higher than a Delta T30 and almost in the same range as a Vega. Or you could buy a used Delta Unifence for around $120.

 

[RonInOhio]

Congrats on the new saw. I think you were wise to weigh your options and shop around.

Good luck.

 

[RibsBrisket4me]

And please put a splitter behind that blade Tom!

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Not to worry, Todd … I most definitely plan to.

First stage/steps are to clean the tool up … starting with the table top. Any advice as to the best product(s) to use for this - to try to get it nice and "as close to new" looking as possible?

 

[toolie]

here's a methoid that worked quite well when i refurbished a 70s era unisaw:

here's how the refurbbed top turned out. before:

after:

working to ever finer grits of wet/dry paper will make the top shinier. it will, however, be slow going as that top is relatively large, compared to how chisels and hand planer blades turn out.

 

[JayT]

I used gray Scotch pads under a 1/4 sheet finish sander and got very good results quickly. Put a coarse sandpaper on the sander to grip the Scotch pad, add a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the saw top and start sanding.

 

[RibsBrisket4me]

I use green Scotch-Brite pads with WD-40…wipe down and then wax. I have used sandpaper and even Navel Jelly to remove surface rust with nice results.

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Started working on the table top last night - with Mineral Spirits and 80, 180 and 320 grit sponge blocks.

Took some "before" pics … and I will be sure to start snapping some "in progress" and "after" pics as well. Might be time to finally start my own Lumberjocks Blog entry. ;-)

 

[knotscott]

Keep at it. I know it' s a lot of work, but the results can be downright impressive, with lasting benefits.

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Yah, THAT'S the thing/part I'm wondering about . . . HOW do I know when I've sanded all I can sand the table top? I'm thinking I know that it's not going to be "fresh from the factory shiny new" - but is there a discernible point where I can/will know when I've done all the sanding (and "mineral spiriting") I can do?

I mean, I would LOVE to get it as close to "factory fresh/shiney" as possible . . . but I also don't want to damage the table top by being too over zealous.

make sense ???

any thoughts/advice ???

 

[toolie]

go for smooth and flat, as opposed to removing all traces of any possible stains purely for aesthetics. appearance is a form variable. flatness is a function variable, and i believe in function over form.

 

[JayT]

+1 for toolie's advice.

As long as any red rust is gone, you will be fine. Sometimes trying to remove all black marks ends up causing more problems.

 

[wormil]

I'm anxious to see how this project works out.