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Good buy! I have a similar saw with a similar fence. On you unit it looks like the saw is missing two of the fence rails that go on the left side of the saw. These are just 1 1/4" iron angles. Check and see if the seller still has them.

There is a secret to setting up the fence for accurate cuts. Underneath the fence head there is a "spring" that rides on the rail (angle iron) between the rail and the table. This provides pressure against the two points of contact on the fence head against the outside of the rail. This keeps the fence square when moving it. If you have any questions send me a private message.
 

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I've been reading that thread on 80/20 extrusion fences and they discuss it being much cheaper than an aftermarket fence but looks like the cost was around $225. That puts it higher than a Delta T30 and almost in the same range as a Vega. Or you could buy a used Delta Unifence for around $120.
 

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here's a methoid that worked quite well when i refurbished a 70s era unisaw:


here's how the refurbbed top turned out. before:

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


after:

Wood Table Automotive exterior Bumper Audio equipment


working to ever finer grits of wet/dry paper will make the top shinier. it will, however, be slow going as that top is relatively large, compared to how chisels and hand planer blades turn out.
 

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I used gray Scotch pads under a 1/4 sheet finish sander and got very good results quickly. Put a coarse sandpaper on the sander to grip the Scotch pad, add a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the saw top and start sanding.
 

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Yah, THAT'S the thing/part I'm wondering about . . . HOW do I know when I've sanded all I can sand the table top? I'm thinking I know that it's not going to be "fresh from the factory shiny new" - but is there a discernible point where I can/will know when I've done all the sanding (and "mineral spiriting") I can do?

I mean, I would LOVE to get it as close to "factory fresh/shiney" as possible . . . but I also don't want to damage the table top by being too over zealous.

make sense ???

any thoughts/advice ???
 

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go for smooth and flat, as opposed to removing all traces of any possible stains purely for aesthetics. appearance is a form variable. flatness is a function variable, and i believe in function over form.
 

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+1 for toolie's advice.

As long as any red rust is gone, you will be fine. Sometimes trying to remove all black marks ends up causing more problems.
 
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