One word of advice, "plastic laminate".
Countertop for kitchen island
Hi all,
Looking for some advice or thoughts on wood countertops made from dimensional lumber or 3/4 in. Maple Plywood for a kitchen island.
Now, before you tell me this isn't a great idea, I realize that, but I need something fairly cheap for now. My wife has been wanting this done since we bought our house 4 years ago, but between other projects and hospital stays our budget has been fairly tight. I'm trying to get the cabinets and countertops done for under $500. If needed, I'm willing to replace the countertops a year from now with something better if this doesn't hold up.
I'll be installing the island along a half wall that currently separates my kitchen from my dining room. Stock cabinets that match my current cabinetry will be used for the base. The countertop will go on top of these, in between two support posts that flank the wall, and overhang on the other side by appx 10 inches.
Overall dimensions will be roughly 61" x 41" and counters will be 1.5" deep. If I use plywood, the depth will be "faked" and edges veneered with Maple banding.
My concerns with the lumber:
Movement, of course, but I think I can work around most of that using angle brackets to attach the top to the cabinets. I'm also considering ripping the planks and constructing an edge grain top out of the lumber, but don't own a table saw and only have hand plans, so not sure if that's a better solution.
My concerns with the plywood:
The Maple veneer is very thin and not sure it will last even for a year, plus the it will look like plywood. I will probably finish with several coats of polyurethane, so not sure if my concern with the veneer is legitimate and I'm considering ripping the plywood into 6 inch planks and reconfiguring them to make them look more like real Maple planks.
All that said, I'd appreciate any thoughts or other solutions I should consider.
Looking for some advice or thoughts on wood countertops made from dimensional lumber or 3/4 in. Maple Plywood for a kitchen island.
Now, before you tell me this isn't a great idea, I realize that, but I need something fairly cheap for now. My wife has been wanting this done since we bought our house 4 years ago, but between other projects and hospital stays our budget has been fairly tight. I'm trying to get the cabinets and countertops done for under $500. If needed, I'm willing to replace the countertops a year from now with something better if this doesn't hold up.
I'll be installing the island along a half wall that currently separates my kitchen from my dining room. Stock cabinets that match my current cabinetry will be used for the base. The countertop will go on top of these, in between two support posts that flank the wall, and overhang on the other side by appx 10 inches.
Overall dimensions will be roughly 61" x 41" and counters will be 1.5" deep. If I use plywood, the depth will be "faked" and edges veneered with Maple banding.
My concerns with the lumber:
Movement, of course, but I think I can work around most of that using angle brackets to attach the top to the cabinets. I'm also considering ripping the planks and constructing an edge grain top out of the lumber, but don't own a table saw and only have hand plans, so not sure if that's a better solution.
My concerns with the plywood:
The Maple veneer is very thin and not sure it will last even for a year, plus the it will look like plywood. I will probably finish with several coats of polyurethane, so not sure if my concern with the veneer is legitimate and I'm considering ripping the plywood into 6 inch planks and reconfiguring them to make them look more like real Maple planks.
All that said, I'd appreciate any thoughts or other solutions I should consider.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
+1One word of advice, "plastic laminate".
- bondogaposis
I would absolutely not use a maple veneer plywood. One gouge and it will be ruined.
I made counter tops for my kitchen last year using Sapele. I posted a blog here about the process. They still look great, no issues with water or other stains and the wood movement has been fine (but I accounted for it in the installation and joinery process). Only evidence is a little caulk pulling away at the wall and the breadboard ends being 1/8" proud of the edge when the panel shrunk.
If you are using lumber, make sure it is dry and make sure you are installing it in a way that will let it move. I used threaded inserts in the bottom of my counter tops and put the bolts/washers into elongated holes.
I made counter tops for my kitchen last year using Sapele. I posted a blog here about the process. They still look great, no issues with water or other stains and the wood movement has been fine (but I accounted for it in the installation and joinery process). Only evidence is a little caulk pulling away at the wall and the breadboard ends being 1/8" proud of the edge when the panel shrunk.
If you are using lumber, make sure it is dry and make sure you are installing it in a way that will let it move. I used threaded inserts in the bottom of my counter tops and put the bolts/washers into elongated holes.
I agree with the above. If you want something serviceable at minimal cost, go with MDF or particle board and plastic laminate. You can get it with a wood look if that is what you want.
Thanks everyone!
I hadn't really considered laminate before, but after seeing your replies and doing some research, that does seem to be a better option for our needs.
I hadn't really considered laminate before, but after seeing your replies and doing some research, that does seem to be a better option for our needs.
Where are you located and what are you wanting to spend on just the top?
Colorado. I think I could get the bases done for $300, so would be looking at $200 range for the top.Where are you located and what are you wanting to spend on just the top?
If I go the laminate route, I'm looking at a cost of appx.$120 to get the top done.
I had a need for some weird shape and size counter-tops and looked into laminate and wasn't too impressed.
Expensive for "specialty work" and couldn't get the look I wanted at the edges.
Granite and other solid stuff out of my price too.
Went with tile. Doubled up plywood and triple coated with poly over the dishwasher.
They make corners, curved bull-nose and cove. Got creative. Nicest part was not working on knees. Did a back splash too. Use epoxy grout.
Andy
Expensive for "specialty work" and couldn't get the look I wanted at the edges.
Granite and other solid stuff out of my price too.
Went with tile. Doubled up plywood and triple coated with poly over the dishwasher.
They make corners, curved bull-nose and cove. Got creative. Nicest part was not working on knees. Did a back splash too. Use epoxy grout.
Andy
A band of hardwood makes a great edge for a laminate top. Use good quality plywood for the substrate, apply the laminate, wrap with the wood, and finish by chamfering the edge.
Very nice . Thumbs up 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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