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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sketching Up

So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.

And so it begins… I imported a photo from my first gate's patina taken before I messed it up with wax. I think it still turned out good, but you can seem many more colors in this shot. The old gate is hanging from a frame made out of 1 1/8" galvanized metal pipe. It was pretty easy to duplicate it in the model. I'm thinking about adding two horizontal rails across the back of the gate's frame to attach to the pipe frame. This gate will be 1 1/2" thick versus 2", a little wider, same height, and will have a flatter curve (30" radius). Now with sketchup I will be able to test some different designs before cutting any wood. I'm hooked.





And here's the first gate for comparison.

 

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Sketching Up

So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.

And so it begins… I imported a photo from my first gate's patina taken before I messed it up with wax. I think it still turned out good, but you can seem many more colors in this shot. The old gate is hanging from a frame made out of 1 1/8" galvanized metal pipe. It was pretty easy to duplicate it in the model. I'm thinking about adding two horizontal rails across the back of the gate's frame to attach to the pipe frame. This gate will be 1 1/2" thick versus 2", a little wider, same height, and will have a flatter curve (30" radius). Now with sketchup I will be able to test some different designs before cutting any wood. I'm hooked.





And here's the first gate for comparison.

Good Job Tim , I really like Sketchup also, its a very handy program {:eek:) I'm not sure if you've started using the follow me tool yet it can really help in designing here's some vases and bowls and an office chair I going to start.

display 2

office chair

You can put bullnose Etc. on a project not to mention a multitude of other aspects it can do…
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sketching Up

So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.

And so it begins… I imported a photo from my first gate's patina taken before I messed it up with wax. I think it still turned out good, but you can seem many more colors in this shot. The old gate is hanging from a frame made out of 1 1/8" galvanized metal pipe. It was pretty easy to duplicate it in the model. I'm thinking about adding two horizontal rails across the back of the gate's frame to attach to the pipe frame. This gate will be 1 1/2" thick versus 2", a little wider, same height, and will have a flatter curve (30" radius). Now with sketchup I will be able to test some different designs before cutting any wood. I'm hooked.





And here's the first gate for comparison.

I've only used the push/pull tool, but did see the demo. Looks very easy and powerful. Sketchup is a blast.
 

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Sketching Up

So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.

And so it begins… I imported a photo from my first gate's patina taken before I messed it up with wax. I think it still turned out good, but you can seem many more colors in this shot. The old gate is hanging from a frame made out of 1 1/8" galvanized metal pipe. It was pretty easy to duplicate it in the model. I'm thinking about adding two horizontal rails across the back of the gate's frame to attach to the pipe frame. This gate will be 1 1/2" thick versus 2", a little wider, same height, and will have a flatter curve (30" radius). Now with sketchup I will be able to test some different designs before cutting any wood. I'm hooked.





And here's the first gate for comparison.

Very cool well done
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Frame & Arch Layout

One of the main challenges of cutting an arch is figuring out the dimensions and glue angle of straight boards from which an arch can be cut. Fortunately, this time around I'm using Sketchup. As you can see in the picture it is pretty easy to figure these out, although I'm still searching for a formula to calculate the dimensions. The vertical angle is 15 degrees. I drew a line intersecting the bottom of the middle of the arch with the bottom of the right side. I then made a copy of this line and dragged it to the tangent of the upper curve of the arch. I connected these with vertical lines in the middle and side. I used the Protractor tool to read the angle.



For this project I made a full size template out of Luan ply. I plan to later cut this down and use it to laminate the copper sheet. I like to use the jig saw for rough crosscuts on this size lumber. It is fast and saver than a circular saw. I also used paper to layout the segment to make sure it would cover the arch. This gate is a little wider and taller than the first. The top of the arch is based on a 30" radius curve, and since the sides are 7 1/4", the bottom curve is based on a 22 3/4" radius. Both curves use the same pivot point. (See Segmented Arches discussion in the Gate I blog).



Just like the first gate, I used the cross cut sled with the angled cutoffs to trim the segments.





Next time on The New California Workshop, we'll cut the mortises. Stay tuned.
 

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Frame & Arch Layout

One of the main challenges of cutting an arch is figuring out the dimensions and glue angle of straight boards from which an arch can be cut. Fortunately, this time around I'm using Sketchup. As you can see in the picture it is pretty easy to figure these out, although I'm still searching for a formula to calculate the dimensions. The vertical angle is 15 degrees. I drew a line intersecting the bottom of the middle of the arch with the bottom of the right side. I then made a copy of this line and dragged it to the tangent of the upper curve of the arch. I connected these with vertical lines in the middle and side. I used the Protractor tool to read the angle.



For this project I made a full size template out of Luan ply. I plan to later cut this down and use it to laminate the copper sheet. I like to use the jig saw for rough crosscuts on this size lumber. It is fast and saver than a circular saw. I also used paper to layout the segment to make sure it would cover the arch. This gate is a little wider and taller than the first. The top of the arch is based on a 30" radius curve, and since the sides are 7 1/4", the bottom curve is based on a 22 3/4" radius. Both curves use the same pivot point. (See Segmented Arches discussion in the Gate I blog).



Just like the first gate, I used the cross cut sled with the angled cutoffs to trim the segments.





Next time on The New California Workshop, we'll cut the mortises. Stay tuned.
good progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
Thanks for the info… where did you get this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
The Mortise Pal? You have to order it from them http://www.mortisepal.com/. The Turnlock system? I got a couple of them at Woodcraft, but here's their webpage http://www.milescraft.com/groups/turnlock.html
 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
Thank you, I'll check it out.
 

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118,619 Posts
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
Good progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
tomakazi, you're welcome. a1Jim, thanks.
 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
are you the one doing the coper petina on the gate?
if so i hope you post more about doing the petina, or maybe you could tell me how its done?
im thinking about doing some coper work for my next project and could use some help
maybe some links to more info.

BTW, what happend to the first gate, you mentioned something about some wax?
sorry if your not the guy, but if you are the one im thinking of it was your page that git me to sign up here
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
Mike. I think that is me. I haven't seen anyone else doing these although I sure hope they do. Here's the link to Part 1 of the first series. It has a bunch of info and links at the bottom http://lumberjocks.com/newTim/blog/9003. And here's the link to the finished gate on the project page http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18381

Here's the first gate. Re the wax problem. After completing the patina process I applied Renaissance wax before rinsing the panel with water. I was advised to do this by one of the suppliers. The DIY pages on David Marks' gate was unclear on this step and I don't have a copy of the program's video. Anyway the wax turned some of the yellows to brown and the whole patina kept changing to greens. I lost the reds, blues, and some other colors. If you look at the first Blog on this series you will see a picture of the panel before it turned to green. It came out looking real good, but I think I need to rinse the panel once it gets to a point that I want to keep the colors, then spray it with Permalac.


At the top left of each Project or Blog page (probably Reviews and other pages also) you will see the author's name. Under the name are links to Home, Project, and Blogs. You can use these links to view all of a member's entries. You can also do a keyword search at the bottom of the main Projects page.

I did the patina for this project (Gate #2) this morning and will post pictures ASAP. If you have any questions please let me know. You can post them here or send me a private email.
 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
ii sure will, thanks for the navigation advice, i had a heck of a time finding my way back here and got lucky to catch your update.

i dont think im going to do a gate, i was thinking about a coffie table or something, not sure about how well it will hold up for a table top tho.

im a big fan of David Marks, you know hes doing Youtube videos now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
David Marks included a number of patina projects in his Woodworks show. He used 1/16" copper sheet and a hot process on the gate. I think he used copper leaf and the cold process on his other projects. The Woodworks series can still be found on the DIY website. He also has many of these projects on his own gallery page. Here's a couple of pictures from his website. And here's a link to his DIY video on his copper-top hall table.



 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
Yeah I'm thinking about doing something like the hall table, but lower-wider, more like a coffee table. Same basic concept, except I'm thinking about lowering the copper panel ¼' to allow for a ¼' peace of tempered plate glass to sit flush and inside the frame on top of the copper. this will allow for putting pictures or what ever between the glass and copper.

http://www.youtube.com/user/sculptnouveau
here is a link to some vids you might like
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
Sculptnouveau is also a brand of chemicals that are sold on Art Chemicals. I don't know the relationship between the two as Sculpt Nouveau also sells their own chemicals. There are some good videos on the Art Chemical website. One is the David Marks patina class.

The glass top would be a nice touch. The patina's are somewhat fragile. You need to apply some coats of laquer. Art Chemicals/Sculpt Nouveau recommend Permalac.

You'll have to decide on whether to use the hot or cold technique. One thing I don't get on David Marks page is why it takes three weeks for the cold patina on some pieces, yet near instant results on the copper leaf. If anyone knows please share.
 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
i think its because he used differnt CHemicals
i was wondering about your Wax mishap,im sure you know more about this then i do but;
did you use any kind of laquer, if so was it b4 or after the waxing.
the reserch ive done indicates that (at least the way i see it) for an out door project all you really need is a laqer and if you should wax (again from what i gathered its an optional step) it should go on after the laquer
 

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More Mortise Magic

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.



The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.



The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.


Here's a picture from their website.


For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.
One vendor advised me to apply the wax before the Permalac. I questioned this, but she was adament. However, I found an entry in their site which specifically said not to apply wax to the blue or green colors as it will change their color. On mine it also changed the yellow.

I applied a patina on the new gate's panel on Saturday. I haven't rinsed it yet as I'm watching to see how it 'ages' or 'changes'. I'm thinking about adding some green chemical as my green bottled clogged up. I've also learned you can rub the patina finish afterward and re-apply. I'll write more about this in the blog.

Oh, this time I don't plan to use wax at all. I'll rinse it off w/ water and use Permalac.
 
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