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Squeeze-out is pretty easy to tackle. Just run a chisel under it after about 20 minutes. However, it's not always feasible to get at the squeeze-out with a chisel.

What do folks think about the idea of engraving a channel about 3/4" from the edges before glue-up to control the flow of excess glue? Not a deep groove, maybe 1/128" to 1/64" deep. Not sure how deep. We're talking Titebond III as the glue in most cases between two pieces of wood laminated by their faces.

I would make the groove using my router with a 60-degree V-groove bit.
 

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That is actually a tried & true method that's been around for years. Pretty creative for you to come up with it on your own. I'm impressed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sras, thanks, so I don't need to be so far from the edge. That's great to know.

Rich, lol, I thought I was being ultra clever. Was calling them "glue channels".

Craftsman, it sounds so easy. Should I be concerned about raising the grain due to the moisture in the rag?
 

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Rich, lol, I thought I was being ultra clever. Was calling them "glue channels".

- DevinT
Indeed. I was commending you for cleverness. You did come up with the idea on your own after all. Reminds me of that time I figured out a quick way to add sequences of numbers only to find out that Gauss had beaten me to it by a couple hundred years.

Regarding strength: you'd have to do some tests, but I'd be surprised if it was any stronger.

Regarding wiping with a damp rag: that topic will open up a huge can of worms around here. Besides, isn't it better if you don't have any squeeze out in the first place?
 

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I think it might even strengthen the bond compared to just surface mating.

- DevinT
I've been under the impression a thin, molecular layer is what creates the best bond - even squeezing the joint too much with clamps is self defeating, but a collection of glue in a channel or any unjointed surface is not going to bring any strength to a joint. Correct me if I'm wrong…
 

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im with craftsman just use a damp rag and wipe it off,anything more and im irritated-lol.
 

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im with craftsman just use a damp rag and wipe it off,anything more and im irritated-lol.

- pottz
Agreed. Don't need to add complexity and additional steps.

Only other thing I'll do is trim the end of a drinking straw into a V. Then run it along the joints when I get squeeze out. Easy way to clean up most of it. Then a damp rag for a final wipe down.
 

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As a worshiper of the Norm Abrams School, I agree with him that wiping the wet glue with a damp/wet rag gets some glue off but succeeds in spreading glue over bare wood which needs to be sanded off before finishing, often difficult in corners. Sadly, I can confirm this happens, as I discovered many years ago.
 

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The easiest way to control squeezeout is to use less glue!

A little squeezeout is just what you want to see. If you're getting drips & runs you're using too much glue!

You want 100% coverage without drips & runs. Use a piece of lexan to spread the glue in a thin, even layer. Hold the lexan at a slight angle as you draw it along the edge. You want a layer just thick enough to obscure the grain but not so much as it starts to bead.

Wood Tire Orange Automotive tire Vehicle

Slight squeezeout without drips.

Wood Wood stain Gadget Hardwood Electronic device

What little squeezeout there is shrinks back as the glue dries.
 

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As a worshiper of the Norm Abrams School, I agree with him that wiping the wet glue with a damp/wet rag gets some glue off but succeeds in spreading glue over bare wood which needs to be sanded off before finishing, often difficult in corners. Sadly, I can confirm this happens, as I discovered many years ago.

- HowardAppel
+1 thats very true,you gotta get it all off.
 

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The idea about using a chisel to scrape the excess off works well after it sets up a bit. The faro cloth is the best though. And depending on the way the piece is finished, is dependant on the method. Bright work, let it dry and scrape later, more so if you need to apply stain. Paint on the other hand, damp cloth.

The channel sounds like a good idea, but that is an extra step in the process. Now with expoxy a thin film and light clamping. So again depended on the application and also how the wood will handle the glue. (Think, soft wood vs hardwood)

Just my two cents.
 

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My first strategy in controlling glue squeeze out it not putting on so much damn glue. Second is the chisel trick after 30 minutes or so. Third is the damp/wet rag.

Some of the videos I watch I see glue running out of a panel and on to the floor.
 
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