Patrick has a miror in stock, real nice, with the original glass.
A guy thought he will strip it and then left it for dead. Patrick bought it and now it is on my gilding table.
As it was already half-stripped nothing could be saved, it was time to start over.
The miror has classic elements on compo (composite elements), molded decoration elements. Those parts are traditionaly oil gilded in brass, and the rest is water gilded. It gives a contrast mat (oil gilding) and shiny (water gilding). I redid the gesso (whiting) and painted the original colors on the oil gilding parts.
There is a decoration of water gilded balls hanging. They receive also the gesso.
Patrick has a miror in stock, real nice, with the original glass.
A guy thought he will strip it and then left it for dead. Patrick bought it and now it is on my gilding table.
As it was already half-stripped nothing could be saved, it was time to start over.
The miror has classic elements on compo (composite elements), molded decoration elements. Those parts are traditionaly oil gilded in brass, and the rest is water gilded. It gives a contrast mat (oil gilding) and shiny (water gilding). I redid the gesso (whiting) and painted the original colors on the oil gilding parts.
There is a decoration of water gilded balls hanging. They receive also the gesso.
Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame.
I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre.
I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick.
Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame.
I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre.
I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick.
Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame.
I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre.
I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick.
Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame.
I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre.
I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick.
Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame.
I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre.
I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick.
Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame.
I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre.
I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick.
The balls are ready so it is time to finish the water gilding.
With a brush called mop you reactivate the stickiness of the glue and clay of the clay layer and your gold will just be sucked in place by the water and stuck there
It is always amazing to me that after so much care for such thin particles of gold you come in with a burnisher and rub the hell out of it…
Notice the difference between the burnished and none burnished area. You can play with shinny and mat area for effects. But in that case, it was all burnished
The balls are ready so it is time to finish the water gilding.
With a brush called mop you reactivate the stickiness of the glue and clay of the clay layer and your gold will just be sucked in place by the water and stuck there
It is always amazing to me that after so much care for such thin particles of gold you come in with a burnisher and rub the hell out of it…
Notice the difference between the burnished and none burnished area. You can play with shinny and mat area for effects. But in that case, it was all burnished
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it
Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that
Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess.
The size have a different working time.
On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evening and start early the next morning.
Brass is applied directly for the book
Push down gently to be well stuck on the size
Here is the video
Same everywhere, at least 2 layers on the carvings and press it well.
Gilding looks like it would be a very rewarding technique to do once you have finished the project and as a master craftsman you make it look almost easy!
I'm enjoying your posts, as I have not ventured into this form of woodworking yet.
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