Old Stanley blades and chip breakers bend easily. Making everything flat is step one of any blade restoration.
What I do:
Carefully hammer the blade and flat portion of the chip breaker perfectly flat, file any rough edges off, then polish smooth with 150/220 grit.
I use a couple of thick steel tool plates, and "coin stamp" the thin metal between the plates. Check with straight edge, and feeler gauges to verify progress.
Once they are both flat, use a metal dowel rod and slowly hammer a consistent curve on flattened chip breaker, creating a smooth, even radius. Exact radius is less important then making it consistent along full length. You want the curved end to extend about 1/8" past the recently flattened back of chip breaker sitting on flat surface. Once radius and side to side height is consistent, then you grind/polish front edge. Want a slight taper; so the chip beaker has knife edge to seal out wood shavings being cut, after it has been clamped to blade.
IME - Over half of all chip breakers I have seen, require a lot of work to tune. At least 10% of all blades/breakers are not salvageable, unless you are a magical metal working genius with automotive body work and enjoy torture, I am neither, so over 1/2 of my planes now have replacement LV PM-11 blades and new LV chip breakers.
YMMV and Best Luck.