Breadboard Ends and Tusk Tenons
Here is my cherry refreshment table which will feature a single drawer and breadboard ends.
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I started by making breadboard mortises at the router table. The mortises are 1-1/4" deep and cut in multiple shallow passes.
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I used a 1/4" spiral bit to center a 3/8" groove in the breadboard ends. I made an initial pass in the standard right to left direction. Then I flipped the board end for end and made a pass from left to right to avoid a climb cut.
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I set up my tablesaw with a dado blade and tall auxillary fence, and cut the tenons for the breadboards. On large tables I use a router, but this small table top was pretty easy to manage on the tablesaw.
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A few swipes with a block plane helped with final fitting.
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I dry fit the breadboard end and mortised for three square pegs. Next I elongated the outer holes with a plunge router and edge guide.
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Then I chamfered the ends of the breadboard and tapped it in place. I am careful to glue only the center section of the breadboard, to allow for wood movement.
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Walnut pegs are driven in to secure the breadboard.
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The breadboard ends are slightly thicker than the top, which gives a nice reveal.
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The upper rail is attached with a lapped dovetail. See my desk blog for my router technique for cutting lapped dovetails…
http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/38791
All other joinery is mortise and tenon.
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The lower rail is held in place with tusk tenons, which add some detail to an otherwise plain table.
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Next up is the dovetailed drawer.