[bandit571]

Use mine a LOT...

Those rods are to set up a "stop" to where you can make a lot of cuts the same length...I have 2 rods for this one, but am missing (not really) the "tree"...

Those sliding pins? are great to hold small parts to the fence, IF they are long enough. The Pins were to cut Crown Molding with....set the piece upside down on the deck, "stops" set one angle, then set the saw for the over part of the compound miter...

 

[bandit571]

Most places that sell metal shapes and such..will carry a length of flat bar stock the right size...all you'll need to do is cut it to length..
On either side of the opening for the saw to pass through the fence, there should be a pair of tiny bolts, with very pointy ends....these screw through from the back of the fence...they are to keep a part from sliding...they will leave a tiny hole where the points dug in...not a biggie...can adjust the depth as need be...

 

[bandit571]

Says the guy with a Stanley No. 346, a Stanley No. 2246, and a BIG Langdon No. 75....amongst others in The Dungeon Woodshop....

 

[bandit571]

Ok..a bit of show and tell...although I am sure someone else will come along...here we go...

These 2 holes, if you move the front post forward, it merely allows you to use more of the saw..

Those levers at the top..catch and hold the saw guides. They will release the saw when "tripped"...used to be a tab on the top of the saw, that tripped the front catch,,,as the front starts to lower, the back of the saw hits the tab in back..

And releases the saw...there IS a "shock absober" down at the bottom..

A lot going on here. The spring is where the saw guide will land on..set it high enough that the saw barely grazes the deck...the other brass collar? You set this as a depth stop...like doing dados.
The 2 small bolts...have a point on their end...you loosen the middle bolt. and can adjust whether the guide rods tilt left or right..used to make the saw cut perpendicular to the deck..then tighten the middle bolt up when done.

Pencil points to one of the keeper points...of two...just a bolt, threads in from the back, with a sharp point on the end.

Those are not degrees...those are the number of sides of a box each point will make...there are 4 patent dates of this saw, newest one is from 1912..

 

[bandit571]

Do you mean this one?

Well to use it..you have to move a couple things..

Thumbscrew and clamp from around in back. Then you can set this wherever you need to stop a board..

This Mitre Box is the Stanley No. 346..

Again, I can use either locations, as this saw...

Although it will only cut to 4" depth, it is 26" LONG...The keepers are the original FAT post ones..

This is still a big Mitre Box...

I figured it could use a bigger stand....this stand was part of a $25 Yard Sale deal...the other part?

Was this Millers Falls Langdon ACME No. 75....with a 5" x 30" saw....made expressly for Millers Falls by Disston.

About worn off, but, there was a Millers Falls paper label where that "smudge" is now...there is a brass name plate..

Frame is a No. 2-1/2......This mitre box and saw will wear out your arm....

Thanks...made go to the shop and dust off both of these boxes...

 

[bandit571]

Those saws are usually 11ppi...and it does not cost all that much to get them sharpened up...There is no Dust Collection to worry about, there is no screaming motor...Takes up about the same space..plus, you might even get a bit of Cardio at the same time. The only electric to run, is to the light over your head....

 

[bandit571]

Here is one for you all...this is how this one was sold..

This still has the logo on it..

GEM Folding Mitre Box....

The idea is, you take this out of the tool box at a job site, set it up on a sawhorse...there are counter sunk screw holes to fasten the box to the top of the sawhorse...there is a brass rod stored in one end, that goes into the back leaf, and reaches half way through the front left.

Guides are adjustable, to the type of saw you are using...does not have to be a backsaw..

IF you don't want to cut 90s this way, walk around back and cut the other way...When done for the day, just fold it back up, and stick into the tool box..

 

[bandit571]

This was great, for when I had to replace all the molding in my son's room, after a house fire about gutted his room...Replace the drywall was one thing..but all the wood trim was a cut a fit....OLD House, has settled a bit of about 100 years....Bevel gauge helped....some.

Does that "kit" also include the special hinges, so you can fold it up?
Mine has the folding decks replace by new pine...(yep, been used THAT much) but the OEM ones had a ruler imprinted along one edge....

 

[bandit571]

One needs to adjust the guides for a tight fit...to where a wee bit of oil helps things slide better...