LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,382 Posts
I would recommend saving your money to get a decent one. They cut very slow and wear you out in the process. I used to have this saw and it worked great for what I was doing with it (building a house). Despite being self-propelled, it was tedious work and time consuming. I can have a guy here make me a nice band saw, sawmill that cuts 46" wide, 18 horse with a starter for $4700. After sharpening a 42" chainsaw every 6 or 7 pass, I have learned a lot of patience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
I own a Granberg CSM that I use quite frequently. I like it and it does the job for me, since I don't saw huge logs. These CSM's work just fine as long as you keep a couple things in mind: make sure your chainsaw is powerful enough for the job. if buy this CSM and try to attach it to a homelite or poulan 40cc saw, you'll be supremely disappointed. if you run a 20" bar, you need to have at least 60cc preferably more. also, as mrjinx007 said, definitely have patience. I used mine just this past weekend cutting a 7' long slab for an outdoor bench. it took me close to 45 min. to cut the top and bottom. it is a slow process. and very physical work too.
at any rate, if none of those things dissuade you, the Granberg is a solid piece of equipment. haven't had any problems out of mine so far.
 

·
In Loving Memory
Joined
·
15,066 Posts
I tried the Alaskan Chainsaw Mill with a Jonserad saw. I was burning a tank of fuel per 6' cut, working WAY too hard, and getting a pretty ragged cut. Found a WoodMizer LT15 on CL and have been a happy camper ever since!

Chainsaw milling is a sport for the young, stout, and patient! I am none of those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Gridlockd,
Do you put a ripping chain on the chainsaw?
- Case101
No, I don't use a ripping chain. I find that I get just as good a cut with a standard chain. Obviously it's not band saw quality cuts, but you can't honestly expect that with a chainsaw.

Would a model like that attach to just about any chainsaw? I have an older stihl 16" blade. I don t need to cut real wide stuff.

- MissouriOutdoors88
I'm not sure that will work on a 16" bar. seems like 18" is the smallest they recommend.

Just remember, you can't go into this expecting dimensional, ready to glue up planks. no matter which tool you use, chainsaw or bandsaw mill, this will still need to be planed, jointed, etc. to make it smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,005 Posts
Ideally, you'd have a jointer and a planer. The jointer will flatten one side while squaring it to one adjacent side and it flattens by referencing the side that is being flattened. A planer flatten one side referencing the opposite side. I had a Stihl MS660 and cutting through 20" of most hardwoods was still painfully slow with a ripping chain sharpened down far enough to reduce the kerf another 10% or so from that of a new chain. I've found a local guy that I pay by the cut and he's pretty reasonable.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,690 Posts
MO, I have this Haddon lumber maker. The cheapest thing I think you can do and very portable. When I built my log home I made a lot of stuff with it. I made all the hand rails in my loft out of eastern red cedar with it. It just mounts on your bar and then slides along a 2×4 attached to the log. You're not gonna cut miles of lumber with it, but you can make something. Definitely get a bench top planer before that jointer you posted.
http://www.amazon.com/Haddon-Lumbermaker/dp/B009L6CJXA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also I called a guy who mills for people full time now since he's retired. He lives only 10 miles from me. Anyway, he charges 25 cents per board foot of what you get milled (end product). Is that a good deal?
 

·
In Loving Memory
Joined
·
15,066 Posts
Also I called a guy who mills for people full time now since he s retired. He lives only 10 miles from me. Anyway, he charges 25 cents per board foot of what you get milled (end product). Is that a good deal?

- MissouriOutdoors88
I would say that's a very good deal! For you, not for him!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,690 Posts
Yes, attach a 2×4 and then slide the guide along the board. Cut a flat face and then attach the board to the new flat face, then after each cut move the board over however thick you want the slabs. I have an 18" bar and you will get about 15" at most depth of cut. I don't know, but 25 cents per board foot sounds pretty good. Walnut at st Charles hardwoods is about $9/bf.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yea a buddy of mine got his walnut milled there for cheap. So I was trying to figure it out. If I take an 8' log that's about 15 inches wide, I'd probably just get it cut to like edge like 2" thick. That'd run me about how much? I'd get probably 6 slabs at 8 foot long 2 inches thick.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top