Pferd - 17300 CS-X Chain Sharp Filing Guide - 5/32" (Rating: 5)

An up front summary: I'm glad I bought this.

After reading several posts about these, and contemplating past results of my chain saw chain sharpening efforts, I decided to take the plunge and gamble thirty-two dollars and fifteen cents ($32.15) on this sharpener.

Sometimes, my efforts produced a quick cut and a lot of chips. Other times I smoked the chain a little and produced a lot of dust.

The simple of it, describing my poor sharpening results, was:

1) I didn't always get the angle right and may not have paid enough attention to maintaining it;

2) I barely paid attention, if any, to the rakers, a/k/a depth gauges, on both sides of each tooth;

3) I may have filed each tooth both directions, rather than only away from the file handle.

4) I may have neglected to determine the EXACT size file I needed for the tooth size of the chain I was sharpening.

This sharpener will not solve all the problems above. For example:

1) It's up to us to only file in one direction - away from us, to avoid dulling the file and otherwise minimizing the results of our sharpening efforts; and,

2) It's up to us to pay attention to and maintain the angle we should be using, and which the design of the sharpener tells us we must use.

3) It's up to us to know and use the correct sized round file the teeth of the chain we are sharpening. For example, I used this to sharpen my Makita electric chain saw chain, but to do so, I had to order the sharpener with the 5/32 file. Accordingly, if you dedicate this sharpening to just the saw(s) using the size file it came with, this will solve that problem.

What this sharpener will do is:

1) Allow us to see the angle we need to maintain on every push of the sharpener across the teeth. Because of the wide angle indicator, it's fairly easy to see and maintain the angle, by keeping the sharpener edge parallel to the bar;

2) Allow us to both sharpen the tooth and file the raker at the same time, without using two different gauges.

I took this out in the shop and was able to get very good results in minutes. After a quick bout of sharpening, I took the saw out and tested on some dry apple wood. As some might know, that's a challenge for any saw chain. The saw cut through large and small pieces quickly and left nice chips, rather than saw dust.

Now that I've used the sharpener a couple times, sharpening went very quickly.

Since a sharp chain will cut the time you have to spend cutting wood, taking a few minutes out to sharpening is well worth while in time savings. Too, it's a lot easier on the chain and bar, since it will cut down on the amount of heat generated.

Aside from a few photos on the package, the directions were lacking. However, it isn't hard to figure out how to use this sharpener:

1) Always file in the direction of the arrows. You will be filing from the body of the chain saw to the tip of the bar.

2) Mark a tooth with a felt tip or other means, to allow you to determine where you started and need to stop.

3) Set the sharpener on the chain so the lowest round file (one will be high and one low) is resting in the hook of a tooth, and the flat (square) file is resting on a raker. The two small bars will be resting on teeth on both sides of the one being sharpened.

4) Insure the two inside edges of the sharpener, that show the sharpening angle, are parallel to the chain bar.

5) Using moderate pressure, push the sharpener against the tooth and in the direction of the arrow.

6) Lift the sharpener (so you don't drag the file back across the tooth) to the starting point and give a couple more passes.

7) Repeat the process, with each other tooth (all the teeth with the same angle), and give each tooth the same number of passes

NOTE: Some chains may have two of the same teeth where the chain was linked together.

8) Once you get back to the marked tooth you started with, flip the sharpener to sharpen all the teeth on the other side. You'll be coming from the other side of the bar to dress all the teeth you skipped in the first round, that have an equal and opposite angle to the bar. You will, again, be pushing the direction of the arrow.