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central vac hose for dust collection?

925 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Pabs
hey all

I'm in the process of setting up a new bench for my miter saw and have been looking for a better hose than I have now. using the generic plastic stuff at the moment but find it too stiff. I have a bigger hose for my table saw but for the miter saw I use a big shop vac under the bench. from the miter saw I just run a smaller hose (pretty much same size as a central vac hose). looking around for more flexible stuff and the prices are insane. I can get a 50' hose on market place for 50$ right now. I could use that for the miter saw and for the vac boom I eventually want to make. Anyway, wondering why that hose could not work? I can jimmy he connections if they don't match up…nothing some creative use of tuck tape can't fix :)
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How about running the shop vac hose and reduce it down?

I use duct tape often to increase the diameter of a male connection.

Have you check Peach Tree Supply?

You're going to find miter saws need more than just the built in collection. The best work fairly well, like Bosch, Rigid and some are practically non-existent, like my Metabo.

If you really want good DC you need to build a hood and use an actual blower. After a lot of frustration with a shop vac, I went with 1HP wall mount blower attached, and does double duty for my router table. Couple hundred buck outlay, but I don't need a mask when using it except for miters when the doors are opened wider.

You can also look into a hood like Rousseau.
If you really want good DC you need to build a hood and use an actual blower.
Hi Robert
what do you mean by blower? as in a real dust collector? I have my saw in a partial hood, not perfect but it's something. I do have a bigger dust collector (1HP with 4inch pipe) that I use for my table saw but the way it's set up it's not practical to use with the mitre saw, that's why I opted for the shop vac under it. it's a super strong shop vac so has lots of power
How about running the shop vac hose and reduce it down?

I use duct tape often to increase the diameter of a male connection.
I plan to use the regular hose from shop vac to top of bench. but from saw to that opening I wanted something more flexible since this is the part that moves around when you move the saw. it's a sliding saw so every cut brings the hose up and back down…when it"s stiff it actually causes resistance which is a pain
Pabs,
The biggest thing about DC is the CFM for the collection and little hoses, especially long little hoses will never really give you what you're expecting. It is not as sexy as upgrading a saw or another woodworking tool, BUT one of the best purchases I ever made was when I went from a shop-vac over to an actual dust collector, the amount of air actually moved and also a much quieter collector made a huge difference for me in my shop. I'm in a garage so I only have 1 run along a wall which has my miter saw, (in a hood), at the end and a couple of stationary sanders. The big tools use 10' 4" flex hose to connect with, and while that's not ideal, it is 100 X better than trying to make the shop vac work. The harbor freight DC is often used by many and I regularly see other DCs on craigslist market place etc. you may not be ready right now to do it, but I'd recommend to keep an eye out to jump on one when you see it, and once you've got it I'm fairly certain you'll feel the same as I did when I had to wonder why I kept futzing with a screaming shop vac.
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LOL, I finish typing and see you have a DC… your further explanation makes sense, maybe no hose and a Big Gulp the saw?
so now, after reading the comments, I'm thinking I'll set up my DC on the right of my mitre saw and run a hard pipe from it to the base of miter saw then another run to my table saw with some gates. i still need a smaller hose to run from the saw down to the 4 inch…so the idea of using central vac hose is still an option…unless that is a bad idea for some reason that I can't think of
so I'm a bit confused. ok, a lot confused :)

been reading on dust control over the weekend and confused about what is best for what application.
so I have my 4inch 1HP dust collector that I use for my table saw and planner mainly. From my understanding those DC units ae good for high volume machines. But if I want to use with say an orbital sander that has a 1 inch port I would need to use a reducer at some point and from what I understand that would greatly diminish the sucking power of the DC. So for orbital sander would be best to go with a shop vac type unit? and not the 4inch DC?

that being said, where does the mitre saw fit in? it also has a smaller port for dust collection requiring a reducer of some sort. Some have mentioned using the "big gulp" (I actually have one of those). if using that you would not use a hose directly connected to the machine right? basically have your 4" line hooked up to the bottom the big gulp and all the dust would just fall into that hole and then be sucked out (assuming the saw is in some sort of shroud )?

trying to figure out what to do but having a hard time understanding what is best.

any info on this would be greatly appreciated. learning learning learning..never ends does it! :)
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Just a thought based on what I'm currently building that might provide an idea..
I have a 4" pipe from the DC drop into the corner of the miter station. After the blast gate, it changes to rectangular plastic drain pipe to better clear the turning radius. That rectangular pipe is mitered to a second piece that runs the width of the saw station. The bottom corner that faces the saw was removed, leaving a 1/2" gap - kind of like a floor sweep (bench-sweep?). A piece of Masonite (waxed) is attached at a slight angle from the back wall of the miter station to the front edge of the cross-pipe. Any dust hits the sloped Masonite and slides down to the deck and is sucked into the slot. I have the dust port connected to the DC just above the round to rectangle transition. I'm still putting this together, so don't have any pictures to share yet.

I used the Big Gulp overhead with the dust port being directed into the mouth of the port and was not happy with the results, when using a 2 HP dust collector. I even had EDPM rubber "drapes" hanging from the hood to allow flexibility when making angled cuts but still had to regularly vacuum the saw station area. Dust falls down, so you either need to collect it from that direction or have intense upward suction.

I briefly considered moving the Big Gulp to the bottom, but it takes too much real-estate for an against-the-wall miter station. It also isn't wide enough when making angle cuts and the dust is thrown into the corners. I think this full-width narrow port will collect what's thrown from any angle.
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I think I get what you are describing Glenn. so if I understand correctly you have the "sweep" that catches all the dust that falls down and you ALSO connected the dust shoot from the saw directly to your DC line? so you essentially have like a Y connection, one going to the dust port and the other to the "sweep" in the back?

my DC is not super powerful (1hp and only 570 CFM I think) but it will be only 6 feet away from the saw. should look into a bigger model at some point but for now, it's what I have
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I have a 2hp DC for my large tools and run a central vac for everything else. This includes drill press, miter saw, router table, sanding and general clean up. It is ducted with blast gates and works far better and quieter than any shop vac I have owned. The ducting is also run into the garage part of the building for car/floor cleanup.
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I have a 2hp DC for my large tools and run a central vac for everything else. This includes drill press, miter saw, router table, sanding and general clean up. It is ducted with blast gates and works far better and quieter than any shop vac I have owned. The ducting is also run into the garage part of the building for car/floor cleanup.

- Bob5103
interesting, I've wondered about central vacs for this purpose. Plus you would exhaust outside correct? meaning no real worry about the filter (compared to shop vacs who push whatever fine dust back into the shop)
ANd you say you get better suction from that than a regular shop vac? what's the CFM rating on yours if you don't mind me asking?
I know this won't help but I solved my Miter saw dust issue by getting rid of it. I have a small shop and it was a messy space hog. Between manual miter box, Table saw and hand saw/shooting board I found I don't miss it. If you are using any climate control (heat or cooling) it won't take long to eliminate your conditioned air from the room if venting outside. If not, the other nemesis is Vac & dust control motors give off a lot of heat in there own right. Okay in winter but in summer I would up the size of your AC source to compensate. Oh and it is going to take what will likely be a custom hood based on your style cuts and a lot of air flow meaning multiple hose connection points.
any info on this would be greatly appreciated. learning learning learning..never ends does it! :)

- Pabs
Pabs-

This reply is long, but hopefully covers important info on dust collection in general, and you're specific need.
TL;DR- miter saw dust collection is hard, and inconsistent at best with traditional shop vacs or DCs.

Confusion about dust collection is nothing new…and everyone is still learning. The biggest issue is this: large impeller-type dust collectors (like you may think of as a classic DC) are designed to move large volumes of air, but at low pressure. This is great for clearing out dust in a larger area, like say under a cabinet saw. They excel at pulling dust out of the air, but may fall short of grabbing heavier debris like chips, especially if not properly sized or set up. ShopVac style units are designed for high pressure, but low volume. Their suction is most significant right near the end of the hose, and they do great at picking up chips….but since they don't move much volume, they're not so great at removing dust from the air in a larger space. Both machines have their place, but they need to be set up, ducted and deployed the way the manufacturer designed them to be used.

Where most dust collection falls short is exactly there: the system(s) aren't being used the way the manufacturer designed them, so they don't produce what you're expecting. Large dust collectors need to be able to move that large volume of air without impedance in order to keep the dust and heavier debris airborne. This mean smooth, straight runs of properly sized ducting with minimal disruptions. That's the only way to take advantage of the high volume and defeat the low pressure. So, using corrugated pipe or hose, sharp angles, reducing (or increasing!) duct diameter beyond what's recommended, too long a run of duct, clogged filters, etc will all render those big DCs fairly useless. When you reduce the required duct size too much, the DC simply can't move enough air to generate any pressure at all…so very little gets picked up: ie - necking 4" ducting from a traditional DC down to 1" for a palm sander.

On the other hand, shopvacs, with their much higher pressure, do a great job…at picking up what's directly in front of them. But, because of their low volume, if the focused vacuum pressure (end of the hose) moves even a couple inches away, the pressure reduction is so massive that the system fails to perform. For these systems to effectively collect dust, some sort of confinement has to be built to help focus the airflow and direct the light dust towards the hose. This could be the internal construction of the shop tool itself (as is seen in some benchtop tools), or through sealing up leaky tool casings or cabinets and allowing fresh air to enter through a small opening at a point that puts the dust production between that opening and the end of the hose…which isn't always an easy feat!

The easiest way to negate these pitfalls is to use the right sized ducting on the collector, and use it as it's intended. As a basic rule of thumb, any tool with dust ports 2" or less needs a shop vac-style collector, and anything with dust ports 4" or greater needs a larger volume DC. The manufacturer (probably) designed the interior of the tool to be in alignment with the dust port size, and the proper type of collection device takes advantage of that design. There are a couple collectors that bridge that dust port sizing gap, the Oneida Supercell being one of them. The Supercell essentially combines three shop vac motors together to generate really, really high vacuum pressure, and also move a relatively large volume of air. It's a somewhat niche machine aimed at the small shop with a single woodworker, using machines with dust ports 4" or smaller, but it does what it does incredibly well. Truly awesome when used correctly.

So, all this info leads us to your quandary about collecting for a miter saw. The issue is: large chips AND dust being thrown over a wider, unconfined area. Soooo…high pressure doesn't work great because the collection area is too wide, and high volume doesn't work great because the chips are heavy and the existing dust ports on the saw necks the opening down too much for the DC to be effective. Funnels like the Big Gulp try to address these by bypassing the saws dust port, allowing a 4" connection to function behind the saw at the end of the funnel which helps collect and consolidate the chips, and hopefully the high volume grabs the dust. But, it takes up a lot of room and requires a large volume of air to be moved…which isn't going to work with a shop vac. Another option is to add on a small homemade funnel (a lot of people just use duct tape to add some sidewalls and widen the funnel to the saw's existing dust port. This allows the blade to fling the chips into the duct tape walls, consolidating them down into the existing dust port where a high pressure (shop vac) style collector can effectively move them, while hopefully also directing the dust closer to the end of the hose where the system might grab that too.

Both models are incomplete for their own reasons, but both work better than the stock adaptation. IMO, the best option is using a high pressure, moderate volume system like the Supercell. This provides super high pressure to pull in the chips, but enough volume to gather dust as well. Absent that option, most of your options are going to either require some sort of an adaptor, or a different collection method. Building off what you already have may save money, but may (or may not) fix your problem. Whatever you decide, try to keep in mind the strengths (and weaknesses) of your system and design your solution around that.

I'd encourage you to look at your shop dust collection and mitigation as a whole. Look at what size and type of collector your machines were designed for and make decisions from there. Often, a small shop requires multiple, different dust collectors to be efficient which in itself is pretty inefficient. Dust collection is an often misunderstood and overlooked part of a woodshop, but the health, safety and efficacy of a properly laid out and used dust collecting system cannot be overstated. All that said, the miter saw is a challenge for many shops!

Hope this helps at least a little.
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interesting, I ve wondered about central vacs for this purpose. Plus you would exhaust outside correct? meaning no real worry about the filter (compared to shop vacs who push whatever fine dust back into the shop)
ANd you say you get better suction from that than a regular shop vac? what s the CFM rating on yours if you don t mind me asking?

- Pabs
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My initial plan was to exhaust outside, but I haven't found the "round to it". Between the dust deputy and vac's hepa filter there probably is not a great need. Vacuums are not rated by cfm, at least none that I have seen. Most have an airwatt rating and mine is rated at 650 airwatts.
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Hope this helps at least a little.

- RyanGi
indeed…thanks so much for the detailed post…you can never have too much info!
I may just use both my DC and shop vac for my mitre saw. essentially collect what I can with the vac and then whatever is still floating around in the hood could get sucked by the DC. if I have both on remotes it's not that hard to run when cutting…in particular when doing many cuts
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