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I already have a Bosch 1617EVS and a Bosch Colt for handheld and misc routing adventures. I also have a Freud FT2200VCE 3-1/4HP plunge router that has been collecting dust. I would like this Freud to be in my next project of a dedicated router table with a DIY router lift. Of course, this is an older router that will not raise above the table. So I was thinking… is it possible to disassemble / edit / cut off the lift posts & base all together? I could remove any moving parts and take a grinder to the posts, allowing the router collets and nuts to fully protrude enough through the top of the router retaining plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will have to look at this MLCS lift, as I could not figure out any other way to change bits easily from above the table. Modifying the plunging aspect of this router is a viable option as it's 3rd down the ladder that i use. So i feel it is expendable to modify.
 

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I used a Freud FT2000 (basically the same router) for may years in a router table. I'm not sure I'd do that to get above the table features, but that's just me. However, the hole in the base isn't large enough to lower the largest panel raisers down past the base opening. So one thing I did do was open up that hole so those large bits could be lowered. As for the above the table part, I still don't have that on my current setup (sold the Freud and the lift) and it just doesn't seem to me to be that big an inconvenience. Anyway, back to the router, that's a great router in a table and I eventually put mine in a Woodpecker plunge lift.
 

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Here's what I did. Remove the depth stop mechanism entirely. Where a ball bearing was seated under the depth stop rotating plate, drill a 1/4" hole thru the base. Where the depth stop rod passed thru the double holes of the router body, insert the spring from the depth stop rod catch and a 3/8-16 square nut.

Thread a 3/8=16×6" bolt from the top of the router thru the square nut. Install a 3/8" hex nut on the bolt. Insert a 1/4-20×1.5" socket head screw thru the hole that was drilled thru the base. Put a nut on the 1/4" screw. Join the screw to the bolt with a 3/8" x 1/4" coupling nut. Tighten the 1/4" nut and the 3/8" nut to lock it all together.

I use a small cordless screwdriver for gross adjustment and a hex key for fine. One full turn = 1/16" height.

Edit to add: It's been a few years and the photo reminded me that I eliminated the 3/8" hex nut because it restricted raising the router for bit changes. Just tighten the bolt good and tight against the 1/4" screw.

 

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This is what I came up with:

The Project:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/80048

The Blog

http://lumberjocks.com/Lsmart/blog/34666

This worked pretty well but I would add some sort of rail/runner system on the carriage for extra support… with this system you need to bolt your insert plate down to the table or it will lift off when you turn the crank.

I found I could slip a screwdriver in to engage the collet lock and the nut poked up just enough to get the collet wrench in.

Good Luck!
 

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@BorkBob: Thank you for your detailed post! Bought a Freud FT2200E a few years ago with the hope of mounting it to router table. Picked up a Kreg Router Table Insert Plate over the holidays and used your post as a guide and it worked like a charm…despite a bit of user error in drilling one errant hole in the plate! I had previously been using a Ryobi 1¼ HP router that was adequate, but seriously underpowered. The Freud is a MAJOR step up and the ability to adjust it from above is a huge bonus and timesaver. Thanks again for the excellent explanation and photo…I couldn't have done it without your help!
 

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Fred, I'm saddened to learn that Bob passed away, but appreciate you letting me know. I had originally found and saved this post in 2017 before I became a member and just got around to using it. Lesson learned…never put off saying thanks or offering a kind word. RIP, Bob.
 
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