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I am trying to practice on some 1\4" box joints. Been studing the video on WoodMagazine.com by Chuck Hedlund. Made a jig and index pin. Both are very close to 1\4". For the life of me I can't even get them to fit together. Tried tapping the fence over and everthing and can't find anyway of remotely getting them to slide in at all. All you boxmakers, " HOW THE HECK DO YOU DO IT?"
 

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OK I just learnt it. And it is easy when you get the idea of it. I used a scrollsaw to cut out the fingers though. I first use a printed grid line glued onto the timber and work out your cuts for two sides. Stack then cut. The matching one to fit into this has to be copied from the areas you have already cut out. So… You put the ones you have already cut out on top of the uncut ones. Use these as a template and mark (with a mechanical pencil ) the timber where you need to cut (make sure you mark out the waste!). When you have marked the lines and go to cut make sure you cut on the inside of the line and the base line is as straight as you can get it. Atually the straighter all the lines are, the better. It's that easy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Same concern. Trying other methods we just made the Woodsmith box joint jig. www.woodsmith.com. A ,kit will all the parts except wood is $15.

Last night we made box joints for a project I will post later this week. With one set of practice pieces we had it staffed out and had short work of the joints for the project.

In my case my dado blades are over 50 years old so I think I am going to buy a set of box joint blades when the Wood Show comes to town later this month.

Lee
 

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there are so many adjustments that can be made, it's hard to know what to advise without more information. In short, the pin, gap between pin and blade, and kerf all have to be indentical-- not as easy as it sounds. After that, fine tune the height of the blade to make the pins longer or shorter.
 

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I had the same problem with the first jig I made years ago. My issue was getting the spacing of the jig to the blade and the blade thickness to match. I gave up and have done a few by hand since then. A while back I was in Rockler and saw the new one they have for the router table, and this sparked a interest again. I went home and built from memory what they had. It worked wonderfully, I did the bar out of wood for the first one and this worked fine. I now have the jig at my brother inlaws shop and he is going to cut the registering bars from metal on the C and C machine for me. With the hardware and everything I will have about 10 to 15 dollars into it. Much less than the 70 Rockler is charging although now that I have used it its worth that money. I like making my own jigs and found this one easy.
 

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obviously something with the setup is not correct- either the pin is too close/far from the blade, or similar. if you post pictures of what you get and what your jig looks like it might help people notice the cause.
 

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Went thru eveything again this afternoon. Made sure both pins and dado were close, very close. Made a couple practice pieces, same thing to big. Tapped the aux. fence to the left and got a real good fit. Now if the set-up stays put. Thanks Boxmakers, I really admire and envy your beautiful work. Larry I will send you an e-mail.
 
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