[Dave10]

Fingerboard

I mostly work on this project at my place of work and a pile of broken cellos and double basses delayed this post.

To create the fingerboard (and tailpiece) I laminated together a piece of mahogany and oak. (Note to self, the oak can be thinner next time.)

The first thing I did was to cut it to length (a little oversize) and plane the sides down to the appropriate taper. Then I planed the radius on the mahogany side.

Then I flipped it over and coved out part of the underside. This is basically done to lighten the piece and make it look less blocky. One of the cellos I repaired recently had a fingerboard that was not coved out and it looked very much like a toy.

Here's the fingerboard, neck and the ribs set together. Before I set the neck, I'll temporarily glue the fingerboard to it to aid in visually aligning things.

And I can see into the future. It's going to look pretty neat.

I was wondering what had happened with this one, Dave. Good to see it moving forward again and getting closer to making music.

- Dave Polaschek

 

[Bstrom]

Fingerboard

I mostly work on this project at my place of work and a pile of broken cellos and double basses delayed this post.

To create the fingerboard (and tailpiece) I laminated together a piece of mahogany and oak. (Note to self, the oak can be thinner next time.)

The first thing I did was to cut it to length (a little oversize) and plane the sides down to the appropriate taper. Then I planed the radius on the mahogany side.

Then I flipped it over and coved out part of the underside. This is basically done to lighten the piece and make it look less blocky. One of the cellos I repaired recently had a fingerboard that was not coved out and it looked very much like a toy.

Here's the fingerboard, neck and the ribs set together. Before I set the neck, I'll temporarily glue the fingerboard to it to aid in visually aligning things.

Noted to self - don't even think you can do this! Instruments are the pinnacle of woodworking skill needed. Beautiful even in the raw (wipes drool…).

 

[Dave10]

The Bass Bar

Since this is basically a cello-size instrument, I'm installing a cello-size bass bar in it. I'm starting with a piece of spruce that is a little taller than I need. For those who don't know, the bass bar in a string instrument adds strength to the top against the pressure of the bridge.

I actually put off this step by a day because my 'bass bar' clamps got left home after my teardrop fiddle build earlier this year.

After it's glued in, I shaped it using the usual assortment of chisels and planes. Note that I also cut the C -shaped sound holes. It's always easier doing that before gluing in the bass bar.

The ends get tapered on either end from a plateau in the center. The edges also get a rounding over for esthetics. This is important to impress whatever luthier opens up the instrument in the far distant future.

 

[Oldtool]

The Bass Bar

Since this is basically a cello-size instrument, I'm installing a cello-size bass bar in it. I'm starting with a piece of spruce that is a little taller than I need. For those who don't know, the bass bar in a string instrument adds strength to the top against the pressure of the bridge.

I actually put off this step by a day because my 'bass bar' clamps got left home after my teardrop fiddle build earlier this year.

After it's glued in, I shaped it using the usual assortment of chisels and planes. Note that I also cut the C -shaped sound holes. It's always easier doing that before gluing in the bass bar.

The ends get tapered on either end from a plateau in the center. The edges also get a rounding over for esthetics. This is important to impress whatever luthier opens up the instrument in the far distant future.

I understand the necessity for the bass bar and the strength it adds, but pardon my ignorance and explain why it is off center? Isn't the bridge centered on the top?

 

[Dave10]

The Bass Bar

Since this is basically a cello-size instrument, I'm installing a cello-size bass bar in it. I'm starting with a piece of spruce that is a little taller than I need. For those who don't know, the bass bar in a string instrument adds strength to the top against the pressure of the bridge.

I actually put off this step by a day because my 'bass bar' clamps got left home after my teardrop fiddle build earlier this year.

After it's glued in, I shaped it using the usual assortment of chisels and planes. Note that I also cut the C -shaped sound holes. It's always easier doing that before gluing in the bass bar.

The ends get tapered on either end from a plateau in the center. The edges also get a rounding over for esthetics. This is important to impress whatever luthier opens up the instrument in the far distant future.

I understand the necessity for the bass bar and the strength it adds, but pardon my ignorance and explain why it is off center? Isn t the bridge centered on the top?

- Oldtool

The bass bar is positioned under one foor of the bridge, (the bass side) The treble side of the bridge is (sort of) supported by the sound post inside the instrument.

 

[DavePolaschek]

The Bass Bar

Since this is basically a cello-size instrument, I'm installing a cello-size bass bar in it. I'm starting with a piece of spruce that is a little taller than I need. For those who don't know, the bass bar in a string instrument adds strength to the top against the pressure of the bridge.

I actually put off this step by a day because my 'bass bar' clamps got left home after my teardrop fiddle build earlier this year.

After it's glued in, I shaped it using the usual assortment of chisels and planes. Note that I also cut the C -shaped sound holes. It's always easier doing that before gluing in the bass bar.

The ends get tapered on either end from a plateau in the center. The edges also get a rounding over for esthetics. This is important to impress whatever luthier opens up the instrument in the far distant future.

And the sound post gets stuck in through the C hole, right?

 

[Dave10]

The Bass Bar

Since this is basically a cello-size instrument, I'm installing a cello-size bass bar in it. I'm starting with a piece of spruce that is a little taller than I need. For those who don't know, the bass bar in a string instrument adds strength to the top against the pressure of the bridge.

I actually put off this step by a day because my 'bass bar' clamps got left home after my teardrop fiddle build earlier this year.

After it's glued in, I shaped it using the usual assortment of chisels and planes. Note that I also cut the C -shaped sound holes. It's always easier doing that before gluing in the bass bar.

The ends get tapered on either end from a plateau in the center. The edges also get a rounding over for esthetics. This is important to impress whatever luthier opens up the instrument in the far distant future.

And the sound post gets stuck in through the C hole, right?

- Dave Polaschek

Correct, it is installed through the sound hole.

 

[Dave10]

Attaching the top/front

With the bass bar installed and the sound holes cut, it's time to glue the front (or to) into the ribs. Leaving the back off makes fitting the neck and end pin easier. (And just to prepare you, I forgot to take lots of pictures of that part of the process :-( My bad.

I did, however make all tghose spool clamps. I want to make just another dozen.

 

[Oldtool]

Attaching the top/front

With the bass bar installed and the sound holes cut, it's time to glue the front (or to) into the ribs. Leaving the back off makes fitting the neck and end pin easier. (And just to prepare you, I forgot to take lots of pictures of that part of the process :-( My bad.

I did, however make all tghose spool clamps. I want to make just another dozen.

Just as the old adage states: You can never have enough clamps.

 

[Dave10]

Attaching the top/front

With the bass bar installed and the sound holes cut, it's time to glue the front (or to) into the ribs. Leaving the back off makes fitting the neck and end pin easier. (And just to prepare you, I forgot to take lots of pictures of that part of the process :-( My bad.

I did, however make all tghose spool clamps. I want to make just another dozen.

Just as the old adage states: You can never have enough clamps.

- Oldtool

And the collective noun for clamps is called an insufficiency! (I have an insufficiency of clamps.)

 

[Dave10]

Attaching the neck and end pin

I mentioned earlier that I neglected to photograph the mortising necesary to attach the neck and the end pin. For that I apologize. I have instead included a few close-up shots of the neck where it meets the body. Suffice it to say that the neck fits into a mortise in a block of wood to which the sides (ribs) are attached.

Unlike a cello or a doublebass, the end pin on a viol da gamba is more of a peg that stands up above the top. The tailpiece will hook onto this. The end pin is set into a mortise, or dado, really. The bottom end of it is set deeper into the end block that the upper end.

 

[DavePolaschek]

Attaching the neck and end pin

I mentioned earlier that I neglected to photograph the mortising necesary to attach the neck and the end pin. For that I apologize. I have instead included a few close-up shots of the neck where it meets the body. Suffice it to say that the neck fits into a mortise in a block of wood to which the sides (ribs) are attached.

Unlike a cello or a doublebass, the end pin on a viol da gamba is more of a peg that stands up above the top. The tailpiece will hook onto this. The end pin is set into a mortise, or dado, really. The bottom end of it is set deeper into the end block that the upper end.

Nice!

Have you seen the interview with Ed Maday on the Lost Art press blog? I think you'll be interested.

 

[Dave10]

Attaching the neck and end pin

I mentioned earlier that I neglected to photograph the mortising necesary to attach the neck and the end pin. For that I apologize. I have instead included a few close-up shots of the neck where it meets the body. Suffice it to say that the neck fits into a mortise in a block of wood to which the sides (ribs) are attached.

Unlike a cello or a doublebass, the end pin on a viol da gamba is more of a peg that stands up above the top. The tailpiece will hook onto this. The end pin is set into a mortise, or dado, really. The bottom end of it is set deeper into the end block that the upper end.

Nice!

Have you seen the interview with Ed Maday on the Lost Art press blog? I think you'll be interested.

- Dave Polaschek

I follow Ed Madsay on Instagram, so I'll definitely have to check that out. Thanks!

 

[Oldtool]

Attaching the neck and end pin

I mentioned earlier that I neglected to photograph the mortising necesary to attach the neck and the end pin. For that I apologize. I have instead included a few close-up shots of the neck where it meets the body. Suffice it to say that the neck fits into a mortise in a block of wood to which the sides (ribs) are attached.

Unlike a cello or a doublebass, the end pin on a viol da gamba is more of a peg that stands up above the top. The tailpiece will hook onto this. The end pin is set into a mortise, or dado, really. The bottom end of it is set deeper into the end block that the upper end.

Nice work, you'll have to make a video of this being played when complete.

 

[Dave10]

Attaching the neck and end pin

I mentioned earlier that I neglected to photograph the mortising necesary to attach the neck and the end pin. For that I apologize. I have instead included a few close-up shots of the neck where it meets the body. Suffice it to say that the neck fits into a mortise in a block of wood to which the sides (ribs) are attached.

Unlike a cello or a doublebass, the end pin on a viol da gamba is more of a peg that stands up above the top. The tailpiece will hook onto this. The end pin is set into a mortise, or dado, really. The bottom end of it is set deeper into the end block that the upper end.

Nice work, you ll have to make a video of this being played when complete.

- Oldtool

I will try to get the customer to play it. I'm clueless aside from how to make it playable.

I do know these things are tuned much like a guitar.

 

[Dave10]

Doing some finishing

I brought the instrument home to stain and spray it with lacquer. It's one of the many times I wished that they had a spray booth at work.

When the weather permits, I prefer to spray outside, otherwise I use the spray and run method in my basement.

After many (perhaps 4) coats of spray lacquer, I scrub the instrument down with steel wood and windex. Then I give it one more spray coat and scrub it down aghain to give it a semi-gloss finish. Trust me it works for me.

Then I can glue on the fingerboard.

Bringing it back to work, I can create and install the nut. This one is made of cherry that I had from an old tree.

 

[DavePolaschek]

Doing some finishing

I brought the instrument home to stain and spray it with lacquer. It's one of the many times I wished that they had a spray booth at work.

When the weather permits, I prefer to spray outside, otherwise I use the spray and run method in my basement.

After many (perhaps 4) coats of spray lacquer, I scrub the instrument down with steel wood and windex. Then I give it one more spray coat and scrub it down aghain to give it a semi-gloss finish. Trust me it works for me.

Then I can glue on the fingerboard.

Bringing it back to work, I can create and install the nut. This one is made of cherry that I had from an old tree.

Getting closer! Hope to hear it play.

 

[robscastle]

Doing some finishing

I brought the instrument home to stain and spray it with lacquer. It's one of the many times I wished that they had a spray booth at work.

When the weather permits, I prefer to spray outside, otherwise I use the spray and run method in my basement.

After many (perhaps 4) coats of spray lacquer, I scrub the instrument down with steel wood and windex. Then I give it one more spray coat and scrub it down aghain to give it a semi-gloss finish. Trust me it works for me.

Then I can glue on the fingerboard.

Bringing it back to work, I can create and install the nut. This one is made of cherry that I had from an old tree.

Hey Dave
I found these snooping around in anthm27 shed while he is in Hong Kong

I immediately thought of you so I took a few pictures.

 

[Oldtool]

Doing some finishing

I brought the instrument home to stain and spray it with lacquer. It's one of the many times I wished that they had a spray booth at work.

When the weather permits, I prefer to spray outside, otherwise I use the spray and run method in my basement.

After many (perhaps 4) coats of spray lacquer, I scrub the instrument down with steel wood and windex. Then I give it one more spray coat and scrub it down aghain to give it a semi-gloss finish. Trust me it works for me.

Then I can glue on the fingerboard.

Bringing it back to work, I can create and install the nut. This one is made of cherry that I had from an old tree.

Nice work Dave, looking good.

 

[Dave10]

The Bridge

I may have mentioned that I had to make every bit of this instrument save the strings. Supposedly a bridge for this is available, but I wanted to do it myself.

I found an eBay seller who graciously put the measurements in the photo for the auction, so I took the picture, sized it properly and printed it out for use as a template.

Then I used my scroll saw to roughly cut out a pair of blanks. N.B. I messed up these first two in the final fitting and ended up making a third one. The first two were from some kind of maple. The third was from white oak. Purism aside, it will work for this purpose.

After giving the bridge blank a going over with rasps and files, I fit the feet to the top of the instrument with sandpaper and a bridge-fitting jig.

Then I put the correct curvature on the top and make sure the height holds the strings at the appropriate height. When that's done I locate and file the 7 grooves, making sure they are equally spaced.

Lastly I rubbed on some boiled linseed oil to let the grain pop. I'm not sure if this is typically done, but I did hear one violin guy on YouTube say that he does it, so I guess it does no harm.