LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

· Premium Member
4,114 Posts
Thoughts and things to consider...

If you use the router method, you might have to put up with the fact that you might have some "burn" marks on the threads. Think of it this way - do those burn marks affect how the screw works/operates? NOPE - not one bit. It might be possible getting a crank on the end of the screw to help you keep the dowel/screw advancing and avoid the burn marks. It's up to you, for me, I can live with it - somewhat.

The nut - in a previous post I mentioned the guide nut wasn't very clean when I ran the tap, I was thinking the blade wasn't sharp enough. I'm now thinking, yes, strive to get it the best, but in reality, as long as the threads are pretty good and allow the screw to be held firmly, there isn't any harm in having the nut that way. Besides, you won't see the threads while the screw is in place - just when the screw is out of the nut.

Make sure to take your time when you start this process - I went through 3 versions before I got a completed screw. The tap was the easiest part of the whole process. When things seem like they are not going or things are not moving like they should be, then stop and take a look at what is going on. Check several times to make sure your tools are in correct setup - if they are off, then your jigs are going to be off too. Heck, overbuild on it - but don't go overboard.

Wood - I originally started out with popular on version 1 - that was okay in the first attempt as it was kind of a practice. In version 2, I used my birch wood from an old shelf. Now it was a bit harder wood, but since things weren't right, I messed up my guide nut. Version 3 I went ahead to use my hard maple. I took a risk in using it, but it paid off as I did mess up the threads once, but didn't cross thread my guide nut like I did before.

Now for the actual reason of the last road block - when you make your Guide nut, you need to get the starting of a thread at the top. Now you'll have a thread then that starts going around, but somewhere along that you'll have the leftover of the previous thread in the way - you'll need to trim that thread off so you can have the screw advance fully into the guide nut. I'll try to post a picture of what I mean - this step was the stopper for me and I was SO close on version 2 with this. If I had known this, I would have been done several months ago, but oh well. It is figured out and hopefully for those wanting to build your own wood screw, this will give you some more information of how to do it.

If you have questions, comments, please post them in each part of this blog and I'll answer them to the best of my knowledge.

Next - pics of the actual screws and nuts for the workbench. First will be the end-vise, as I need to get that figured out as I build up the top. The leg vise will come shortly after that, as I don't need it right away, but I do need the end-vise to get the top completed.
A very interesting blog reading about your process of figuring things out and not giving up.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.