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hey bruce, i know there are a few who use the slats from wooden window blinds, the other is to just resaw your wood to the thickness you want, i cut it so the waste piece on the table saw would be what you use for your divider slats, just make sure you have a zero clearance insert on your saw so the thin piece doesnt go into the saw….does this help any …P.S… I dont have a bandsaw , so i have to do it on my table saw….
 

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I make 3mm and sub 3mm veneers for instrument sides, tops, backs and headstocks. I face dress one side before re sawing, 1-2mm oversize. The timber is then placed on a 25mm back board and sent thru the planer, finer and finer cuts the thinner you go. Have extra pieces to see how much of a cut is too is too much. Usually .5mm - .25mm or less. This method makes use of the bed rollers as well as the feed rollers. The feed roller has enough pressure to feed both pieces thru as one. I haven't tried this on a lunchbox planer you might want tape.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bert LOVED me asking this and getting the answers I got.

He gave me so much (nicely said) crap for getting rid of my crappy Craftsman band saw….said everyone needs one.

Well, Bert, besides this question, I have wanted to have a Good band saw, but I have made due with some half-ass work-rounds.

So, OBVIOUSLY the right way to go is with a band saw, and it will gladden Bert's "TOLD YA SO" and , truth be told I have been looking for a good used one. (BERT, that is hard for me to declare publicly, and I expect more grief from you on this subject.

So, thanks to TheFridge, AandCstyle, bondogaposis, Bert, Texcaster for your responses.

Looks like I need to look more diligently for a band saw cuz a few jewelry boxes are in my future.

Now, grizzman....You confirmed for me the work-around I will need to do until Bert brings his band saw down for me to use ….... permanently.

Thanks to all.

Bruce
 

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Your planer doesn't go down to 1/8"? I thought most did. Anyway, I resaw on my bandsaw and then send it through the planer until I get to the desired thickness.
 

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I might be the odd one out here, but when I needed thin pieces for the jewelry box I'm working on now I used my gramercy bow saw to resaw them and then planed them smooth with a block plane. They were pretty small though (1"x4"x1/4"). I don't have a bandsaw though.
 

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If you want thin wood for dividers, I buy Baltic birch plywood than can be cut to size on a table saw. The plywood comes in thicknesses all the way down to 1/16". Other woods are also available. Here is a link:http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/category/aircraft-plywood
 

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Depends on the drawer or box, BS or TS. For jewelry box drawers, my 8' thin kerf Diablo does a fine job of cutting and leaving a smoothish side that requires little sanding. 5/8 think leaves me with a strong 1/4" board when done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey guys

Thanks for all the responses

Each and every one is helpful

I do appreciate the talent and time you gave to give me an assist

There is a Topic going around that knocks LJ. It might be dead now.

Well, in my 5 years here, all I have had are experiences exactly like the one here…..... so very helpful and kind

Not trying to highjack my own thread, just expressing my sincere appreciation for ALL the many things I have learned here…. and genuine friendships developed.

Best to all

Bruce
 

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I days of yore the did it by hand with a good sharp ripsaw, you know.

+1 JaDobson

Hey, JA did you buy the kit and make one or just buy the saw?

- Robert Engel
I got the kit for Christmas and built it. I followed Gramercy's plans so it looks just like theirs. Now that I have it, I'm not sure how I worked without it.
 
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