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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting Started

If you're anything like me, you find that turning blanks for larger bowls tend to be expensive. I do use the occasional blow down or removed tree for blanks, but a change of pace is rather nice. I had read of the "Bowl From a Board" concept and seen tutorials on line. I do have some short boards not planned for anything, so I figure why Not?

Items required to get started.

1 board suitable in width and length for the desired bowl size. I have an 8" wide oak board that I can get 2 "Blanks" out of.

a compass
a lathe with sufficient swing to hand the size of bowl you want to turn
a narrow parting tool (I made my own from a used reciprocating saw blade.)
lathe chisels for truing, facing and shaping the bowl
Your favorite glue
sufficient clamps or clamping ability to secure the blank to a wast block mounted on a face plate and subsequently clamping the layers together to form a rough bowl shape.

First I cut the board into squares

Next I connected the corners to form an X to mark the center. I Like to draw heavy lines here, they will aid in centering my waste block and eventually lining up the layers when it comes to glue the board back together.

I then used a compass to draw circles on the board and used my bandsaw to cut out the disks. I just free hand the circles, I don't have a circle jig yet and it's going the lathe anyways so close counts.

Once I had a disc cut, I glued the disc to a waste block mounted on a faceplate.

(Clicking the photo takes you to my skydrive project)
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21799&authkey=AOoZBu2wHNHSAe0

Notice how the centering lines are used with the scribe marks on the wast block to get the disc approximately centered. I just yellow tite bond II any adhesive you'r comfortable with should work fine. I let this dry over night.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21802&authkey=AN88EXKV-lE5mws
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Balance and True up the stock

Once the disc and waste block glue up are dry it's time to mount on the lathe.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21801&authkey=ADIXEcUFyb3FDI8

Remember to check the rotation and clearance by hand before powering up the lathe. If your lathe has adjustable speed, set the speed to its lowest setting.

Balancing the stock is nothing more than scraping the edge of the disc until it is concentric.
Truing the stock is nothing more than some light facing cuts on the front face of the stock.

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21800&authkey=ALGqLCT5Lar3Hi0

All ready for the next step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cutting the rings

Once the disc is balanced and true. It's time to start cutting the rings

With the tool rest parallel to the face of the disc, use the parting tool to slice off a ring.

I chose to make the rings the sames thickness as the board.

You can see in this photo where I started my cuts with my thin parting tool.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21803&authkey=AIm1Ff6SfDs2yFU

The angle of the cut needs to be sufficient to provide and adequate gluing surface between the rings.

First Layer/ring cut off.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21805&authkey=APmD6fnEhlDYvys

I went too fast and wound up burning the wood. No big deal, other than potential damage to the tool. this will be turned away during final shaping anyways.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21808&authkey=AAb-NPe1feYgflA

Also note the tear out. This can be reduced by going slower and using a sharper tool. The tear is also no big deal, it too will be turned away during final shaping.

second ring done. less tear out and no burning. I sharpened and cut slower.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21809&authkey=AJdl7cOIMrd4fZc

Next is to glue up the layers to create a bowl shaped blank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Glue up the Blank

With all the rings cut, it's time to glue up the blank, again, I'm using regular titebond II.

First a Dry fit. Note the alignment of the centering lines. Also examine the grain. Now is the time to determine the final look of the bowl. Once the glue is set, there is no going back.

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21811&authkey=ANpoTv9BatYYgcY

You only need glue where the layers meet. But don't be stingy with the glue either. You want a string glue joint here.

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21812&authkey=AJRKXLY_M25tMMk

Remember to align the layers just like your dry fit.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21814&authkey=ACYwoZEi1F4xWw8

All clamped up. I'm not worrying about excess glue, it will be turned away when I do the final shaping.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21807&authkey=ANPqGakaSnIOTtc

I'll let this dry overnight to make sure the glue is good and set.

Next is the final shaping back on the lathe.

Something I forgot to mention (because I forgot to do it). Take measurements on all four alignment marks when dry fitting and gluing up to get each disc as concentric as possible. Each disc should be equidistant from the next along all alignment marks. I forgot this step and the largest disc was horribly non concentric when shaping
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let the shaping begin.

With the glue dry and clamps removed, the bowl blank and face plate can be re-installed on the lathe.
Wood Gas Machine Automotive tire Auto part


Something I forgot to mention in my previous entry (because I forgot to do it). Take measurements on all four alignment marks when dry fitting and gluing up to get each disc as concentric as possible. Each disc should be equidistant from the next along all alignment marks. I forgot this step and the largest disc was horribly non concentric when shaping

Whether you measure or not the bowl blank needs to be re-balanced as it will not be concentric after gluing.
It's really bad in my case because I didn't measure.

Wood Automotive tire Bumper Water Gas

Note the distance from the tool rest between each picture.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Bumper


At any rate once re-balanced and trued, shaping can begin.

I like to start with the outside first and get the profile of the bowl set.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Machine


Once you've got the outside to about where you wanted it
Wood Gas Auto part Engineering Machine


You can go to the inside.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Dishware Serveware

Remember the inside is not concentric yet either, so take your time and work it round.
I did mention previously that any burning and excess glue would turn away
Most of the burning gone and some of the glue gone
Wood Serveware Table Auto part Circle


After some more work all of the burning and excess glue are turned away, the bowl is concentric and final shaping can begin.
Idiophone Wood Gas Engineering Machine


Work the final profile, ease the edges and remove any tool marks inside and out.
Wood Machine tool Gas Engineering Machine


All ready for sanding and finishing
Table Wood Hat Automotive wheel system Gas


This has been sanded 60 Grit and 100 Grit so far. Those coarse grits I still consider tooling.
 

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Let the shaping begin.

With the glue dry and clamps removed, the bowl blank and face plate can be re-installed on the lathe.
Wood Gas Machine Automotive tire Auto part


Something I forgot to mention in my previous entry (because I forgot to do it). Take measurements on all four alignment marks when dry fitting and gluing up to get each disc as concentric as possible. Each disc should be equidistant from the next along all alignment marks. I forgot this step and the largest disc was horribly non concentric when shaping

Whether you measure or not the bowl blank needs to be re-balanced as it will not be concentric after gluing.
It's really bad in my case because I didn't measure.

Wood Automotive tire Bumper Water Gas

Note the distance from the tool rest between each picture.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Bumper


At any rate once re-balanced and trued, shaping can begin.

I like to start with the outside first and get the profile of the bowl set.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Machine


Once you've got the outside to about where you wanted it
Wood Gas Auto part Engineering Machine


You can go to the inside.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Dishware Serveware

Remember the inside is not concentric yet either, so take your time and work it round.
I did mention previously that any burning and excess glue would turn away
Most of the burning gone and some of the glue gone
Wood Serveware Table Auto part Circle


After some more work all of the burning and excess glue are turned away, the bowl is concentric and final shaping can begin.
Idiophone Wood Gas Engineering Machine


Work the final profile, ease the edges and remove any tool marks inside and out.
Wood Machine tool Gas Engineering Machine


All ready for sanding and finishing
Table Wood Hat Automotive wheel system Gas


This has been sanded 60 Grit and 100 Grit so far. Those coarse grits I still consider tooling.
Looking good
 

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Let the shaping begin.

With the glue dry and clamps removed, the bowl blank and face plate can be re-installed on the lathe.
Wood Gas Machine Automotive tire Auto part


Something I forgot to mention in my previous entry (because I forgot to do it). Take measurements on all four alignment marks when dry fitting and gluing up to get each disc as concentric as possible. Each disc should be equidistant from the next along all alignment marks. I forgot this step and the largest disc was horribly non concentric when shaping

Whether you measure or not the bowl blank needs to be re-balanced as it will not be concentric after gluing.
It's really bad in my case because I didn't measure.

Wood Automotive tire Bumper Water Gas

Note the distance from the tool rest between each picture.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Bumper


At any rate once re-balanced and trued, shaping can begin.

I like to start with the outside first and get the profile of the bowl set.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Machine


Once you've got the outside to about where you wanted it
Wood Gas Auto part Engineering Machine


You can go to the inside.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Dishware Serveware

Remember the inside is not concentric yet either, so take your time and work it round.
I did mention previously that any burning and excess glue would turn away
Most of the burning gone and some of the glue gone
Wood Serveware Table Auto part Circle


After some more work all of the burning and excess glue are turned away, the bowl is concentric and final shaping can begin.
Idiophone Wood Gas Engineering Machine


Work the final profile, ease the edges and remove any tool marks inside and out.
Wood Machine tool Gas Engineering Machine


All ready for sanding and finishing
Table Wood Hat Automotive wheel system Gas


This has been sanded 60 Grit and 100 Grit so far. Those coarse grits I still consider tooling.
Way late to this party but thanks for the how to. Much appreciated!!!
And well done!!!
Got to love our SS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's time to get this thing finished

When I left off, I had completed the shaping process and sanding up to 100 Grit. The trouble with Sanding is that the sanding dust often occludes tool marks. Tool marks that will definitely show once the finish is applied.

I have learned to take a step prior to any further sanding or finishing that helps show the tool marks so they can be removed before the finish is applied. I dampen a paper towel with mineral spirits (just enough to transfer some mineral spirits to the bowl's surface.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hat Hardwood


Wood Gas Composite material Tints and shades Metal

It may be hard to show in photos, but a light application of mineral spirits does indeed display tool marks that would pop-up once finish is applied.

In this case I did find some tool marks so I wen back and removed the tool marks and did the mineral spirits wipe down again to confirm the absence of tool marks.

Next step is sealing or any coloring or tinting that needs to be done. This bowl is for me and I like the open grain of oak. So I chose to seal and bring out the grain by applying a very light coat of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)
Food Fluid Ingredient Liquid Tin


Wood Gas Cylinder Machine Plumbing


Wood Musical instrument accessory Audio equipment Varnish Metal

Did I mention that oak, especially red oak has very op-en even porous grain structure?? This definitely needs some sealing. I chose to seal and final finish with General Finishes "Wood Turner's Finish" (WTF). This provides a great seal and a nice sheen.

After the first application
Automotive lighting Hood Wood Grille Motor vehicle


The inside and top portion of the outside is done.

Wood Machine tool Gas Cylinder Auto part


Wood Gas Varnish Automotive wheel system Metal


The next entry will include parting off from the waste block and dressing the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Signed, Sealed, and Delivered

Time to finish finishing this bowl.

Before parting off make sure the inside of the bowl is finished to your satisfaction. Once parted from the waste block re-mounting to work on the inside gets difficult.

Parting the bowl from the waste block is really quite simple. Run a parting tool between the waste block and bottom of the bowl but don't part all the way off. You don't want the bowl popping off the lathe at speed and risk damaging all your hard work. I left about 1 1/2 inches of material. Stop the lathe and gently pry the bowl from the waste block using your parting tool. The weak paper glue joint should just pop right off. If it doesn't you can use a sharp hand saw to cut away the glue joint.

Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Automotive wheel system Gas


With bowl separated we can work on the bottom portion. I use a set of jumbo jaws for my chuck. Another option is to use a Jam Chuck, or shop made cole Jaws. I have the chuck and the Jumbo Jaws, so I'm using them.

Automotive tire Wood Gas Machine Engineering


Remove the rest of the paper joint and true up the bottom.

Wood Machine tool Automotive tire Gas Audio equipment


You can see that I turned a relief in the bottom of the bowl. Bottom treatment is turner's choice. I wanted this bowl to sit flat. Some people turn a foot, some people leave it completely flat. Do whatever you want. Then prepare to apply the finish.

Wood Gas Machine Wood stain Hardwood


Don't forget to sign your work. I like to date it (Year/Month, rarely do I make a bowl in a single day). I also add any specific instructions.

Gas Machine Metal Nickel Cylinder


Apply the finish to the bottom.

Wood Gas Machine Metal Aluminium


Done, not a bad result from a cutoff that was just sitting around.

Tableware Ingredient Wood Dishware Serveware


Once the finish cures, this becomes my Ice Cream Bowl.
 

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