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HELP!! I am having trouble with a few aspects of turning bottle stoppers:

1) What is the trick to tapping threads effectively, and straight in the 5/16" hole I have drilled in the blank?
2) What am I doing that is causing the threaded chuck to strip out the threads I have put in the blank when I try to turn it?

Thanks!
 

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Couple things come to mind, the predrilled hole might be too big or because of run out on your tool might be oversizing the hole. When tapping wood you need to clear your holes alot more frequently. Also when tapping wood speed kills, go nice and easy. and I would also try a fractionally smaller predrilled hole to start with. Just a couple ideas, take them with a little salt but they should be helpful. Practice on some similar stock first.
 

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To get the hole just right in the center the best way is to buy an MT2 drill chuck and the MT2 threading tool. This works Great! I use them all the time and it`s easy. There is a very nice lady that sells stoppers and the tools and her name is Ruth Niles. Niles bottle stoppers. I have have her threading device and I got my MT2 drill chuck from Amazon. BTW the initial hole for the 3/8" stoppers she sells is 11/32nds and you get the tool and the stubby bit included. For a 5/16" hole you use a 9/32nds drill.
 

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I have only made a couple of bottle stoppers, but the kit I got that came with a drill bit, had too big a drill bit! I could not get any thread on the blank. Make sure that you have the correct size drill bit, don't rely on what might have come in a kit (PSI I think it was from), or even what those instructions might say!
 

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Never done a bottle stopper, but my lathe has an odd sized spindle (3/4"-10tpi) so I make my own wooden faceplates for turning bowls and such. I usually use a slightly smaller bit than what is recommended so I get more thread exposure.. you can get away with 50% in metal, but for wood, you want closer to 90% or more to give as much support as possible. Drill the hole in your drill press and then hand tap it so you don't tear out the threads by going too fast. I also like to give the hole a slight wash of poly/mineral spirits (about a 50/50 mix) so it helps bind the fibers to reduce splintering.

Cheers,
Brad
 

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Never done a bottle stopper, but my lathe has an odd sized spindle (3/4"-10tpi) so I make my own wooden faceplates for turning bowls and such. I usually use a slightly smaller bit than what is recommended so I get more thread exposure.. you can get away with 50% in metal, but for wood, you want closer to 90% or more to give as much support as possible. Drill the hole in your drill press and then hand tap it so you don t tear out the threads by going too fast. I also like to give the hole a slight wash of poly/mineral spirits (about a 50/50 mix) so it helps bind the fibers to reduce splintering.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix
Hey Brad, have you ever tried using some super glue in the hole? I think if you use the really liquid version and the accelerator you could go back to work much faster. Just a thought.
 

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Hey Brad, have you ever tried using some super glue in the hole? I think if you use the really liquid version and the accelerator you could go back to work much faster. Just a thought.
Never tried it.. as I don't have any :)

But I do have lots of poly as it is my preferred finish for most stuff. Thinned down with MS allows it to really soak in pretty good. As for getting back to work faster, I just make up a half dozen of so faceplates at a time using scrap 2×4's that I dumpster dive for at local construction sites.. and I always make sure I have a couple ready to go whenever I need them.

Wood Tool Saw Hardwood Lumber


Cheers,
Brad
 

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