Well it looks like the project is well underway - have a good build and let's see some photos of the finished project. Is that a Performax 16-32 drum sander I see? It is one of the most often tools used in my shop.Sorting out the stock and materials
Project #3 will be a bookcase with sliding doors. The plans come from American Woodworker #130 Sept. '07.
The case will be walnut veneer ply with walnut hardwood for the remainder.
Some techniques I'll exploring on this project are:
New…
1) Face frame construction
2) Sliding doors in dadoes
One more try…
3) More Festool Domino loose tenon joinery
4) Dovetail drawers
5) Re-saw stock for drawer bottoms
6) Edge-gluing and making flat table tops
But first step is to go through the stock pile and pull out some boards. I only have 2 sheets of ply on hand so that choice was pretty easy to make.
Let's pick out some boards, chalk out the parts, then mill it S4S.
And here's the sheet good.
Bookcase with Sliding Doors
Sorting out the stock and materials
Project #3 will be a bookcase with sliding doors. The plans come from American Woodworker #130 Sept. '07.
The case will be walnut veneer ply with walnut hardwood for the remainder.
Some techniques I'll exploring on this project are:
New…
1) Face frame construction
2) Sliding doors in dadoes
One more try…
3) More Festool Domino loose tenon joinery
4) Dovetail drawers
5) Re-saw stock for drawer bottoms
6) Edge-gluing and making flat table tops
But first step is to go through the stock pile and pull out some boards. I only have 2 sheets of ply on hand so that choice was pretty easy to make.
Let's pick out some boards, chalk out the parts, then mill it S4S.
And here's the sheet good.
Project #3 will be a bookcase with sliding doors. The plans come from American Woodworker #130 Sept. '07.
The case will be walnut veneer ply with walnut hardwood for the remainder.
Some techniques I'll exploring on this project are:
New…
1) Face frame construction
2) Sliding doors in dadoes
One more try…
3) More Festool Domino loose tenon joinery
4) Dovetail drawers
5) Re-saw stock for drawer bottoms
6) Edge-gluing and making flat table tops
But first step is to go through the stock pile and pull out some boards. I only have 2 sheets of ply on hand so that choice was pretty easy to make.
Let's pick out some boards, chalk out the parts, then mill it S4S.
And here's the sheet good.
2
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
looking forward to seeing your progress. The boards look great.Sorting out the stock and materials
Project #3 will be a bookcase with sliding doors. The plans come from American Woodworker #130 Sept. '07.
The case will be walnut veneer ply with walnut hardwood for the remainder.
Some techniques I'll exploring on this project are:
New…
1) Face frame construction
2) Sliding doors in dadoes
One more try…
3) More Festool Domino loose tenon joinery
4) Dovetail drawers
5) Re-saw stock for drawer bottoms
6) Edge-gluing and making flat table tops
But first step is to go through the stock pile and pull out some boards. I only have 2 sheets of ply on hand so that choice was pretty easy to make.
Let's pick out some boards, chalk out the parts, then mill it S4S.
And here's the sheet good.
Hi Bill,Sorting out the stock and materials
Project #3 will be a bookcase with sliding doors. The plans come from American Woodworker #130 Sept. '07.
The case will be walnut veneer ply with walnut hardwood for the remainder.
Some techniques I'll exploring on this project are:
New…
1) Face frame construction
2) Sliding doors in dadoes
One more try…
3) More Festool Domino loose tenon joinery
4) Dovetail drawers
5) Re-saw stock for drawer bottoms
6) Edge-gluing and making flat table tops
But first step is to go through the stock pile and pull out some boards. I only have 2 sheets of ply on hand so that choice was pretty easy to make.
Let's pick out some boards, chalk out the parts, then mill it S4S.
And here's the sheet good.
Yes, that's the Performax. I plan to use that to help flatten the top piece of this bookcase. It worked well in project #1.
Evaluate grain and layout parts
It's hard visuallizing which grain pattern will look good for which part of the project. I hope this is one of those things that will become easier with experience.
It's hard visuallizing which grain pattern will look good for which part of the project. I hope this is one of those things that will become easier with experience.
You'll know whether you like it when you lay it all out how it'll be arranged…Evaluate grain and layout parts
It's hard visuallizing which grain pattern will look good for which part of the project. I hope this is one of those things that will become easier with experience.
You may have to (not you personally) double the amount of wood you buy if you're one that's that picky!
Building the case
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2" from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4" inward to make the final dado cut.
I think I'll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bit instead. There's a good example in later pages of the same American Woodworker #130 issue which I didn't think I would need… oh well, now I've learn one way NOT to cut dadoes using a router.
Here are some shots of the process and the dry fit case:
Marking layout lines for routing
<img><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mdoan7/BookcaseWithSlidingDoorsInBlackWalnut/photo?authkey=A156eZv6lDA#5140137663070824850">
I ripped then routed for the bottom and middle sections... don't remember why... but it turned out well.
The pieces dry fitted together.. all nice and square... thank goodness.
Now onto the hardwood sections.
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2" from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4" inward to make the final dado cut.
I think I'll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bit instead. There's a good example in later pages of the same American Woodworker #130 issue which I didn't think I would need… oh well, now I've learn one way NOT to cut dadoes using a router.
Here are some shots of the process and the dry fit case:
Marking layout lines for routing
<img><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mdoan7/BookcaseWithSlidingDoorsInBlackWalnut/photo?authkey=A156eZv6lDA#5140137663070824850">
I ripped then routed for the bottom and middle sections... don't remember why... but it turned out well.
The pieces dry fitted together.. all nice and square... thank goodness.Now onto the hardwood sections.
3
Looking goodBuilding the case
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2" from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4" inward to make the final dado cut.
I think I'll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bit instead. There's a good example in later pages of the same American Woodworker #130 issue which I didn't think I would need… oh well, now I've learn one way NOT to cut dadoes using a router.
Here are some shots of the process and the dry fit case:
Marking layout lines for routing
<img><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mdoan7/BookcaseWithSlidingDoorsInBlackWalnut/photo?authkey=A156eZv6lDA#5140137663070824850">
I ripped then routed for the bottom and middle sections... don't remember why... but it turned out well.
Now onto the hardwood sections.
Yeah, that's coming along nice.Building the case
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2" from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4" inward to make the final dado cut.
I think I'll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bit instead. There's a good example in later pages of the same American Woodworker #130 issue which I didn't think I would need… oh well, now I've learn one way NOT to cut dadoes using a router.
Here are some shots of the process and the dry fit case:
Marking layout lines for routing
<img><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mdoan7/BookcaseWithSlidingDoorsInBlackWalnut/photo?authkey=A156eZv6lDA#5140137663070824850">
I ripped then routed for the bottom and middle sections... don't remember why... but it turned out well.
Now onto the hardwood sections.
Are you using all Festool sytems parts?Building the case
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2" from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4" inward to make the final dado cut.
I think I'll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bit instead. There's a good example in later pages of the same American Woodworker #130 issue which I didn't think I would need… oh well, now I've learn one way NOT to cut dadoes using a router.
Here are some shots of the process and the dry fit case:
Marking layout lines for routing
<img><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mdoan7/BookcaseWithSlidingDoorsInBlackWalnut/photo?authkey=A156eZv6lDA#5140137663070824850">
I ripped then routed for the bottom and middle sections... don't remember why... but it turned out well.
Now onto the hardwood sections.
I don't know about "all" but I do like the festool system and I do use many of their power tools. What specifics of festool are you interested in or use? I'd be interested in hearing your experiences. I'm really enjoying the domino system for building the frames although still learning it's intricacies.Building the case
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2" from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4" inward to make the final dado cut.
I think I'll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bit instead. There's a good example in later pages of the same American Woodworker #130 issue which I didn't think I would need… oh well, now I've learn one way NOT to cut dadoes using a router.
Here are some shots of the process and the dry fit case:
Marking layout lines for routing
<img><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mdoan7/BookcaseWithSlidingDoorsInBlackWalnut/photo?authkey=A156eZv6lDA#5140137663070824850">
I ripped then routed for the bottom and middle sections... don't remember why... but it turned out well.
Now onto the hardwood sections.
Milled stock square 4 sides
Here's all the stock milled s4s, marked, and semi-stickered ready for ripping and cutting to length. I read somewhere to let milled wood rest couple days before working it.
Stickered and weighted.
Here's all the stock milled s4s, marked, and semi-stickered ready for ripping and cutting to length. I read somewhere to let milled wood rest couple days before working it.
Stickered and weighted.
Pieces for the top piece
Here are the pieces i milled up for the top. I tried to go light on the jointer/planar because i need the top to be as thick as possible. I think I ended up with all pieces being 7/8".
Here are the pieces i milled up for the top. I tried to go light on the jointer/planar because i need the top to be as thick as possible. I think I ended up with all pieces being 7/8".
Beautiful planks, very interesting grain pattern in them.Pieces for the top piece
Here are the pieces i milled up for the top. I tried to go light on the jointer/planar because i need the top to be as thick as possible. I think I ended up with all pieces being 7/8".
The center board looks as if it has some quilting in it?
-Ray
Yes, some of the boards have a little figure… wouldn't call it quilted but it does add a bit of interest. Being that it's a bookcase, the top won't actually be the "show piece" but the chatoyance would be a nice surprise for those who do look for it.Pieces for the top piece
Here are the pieces i milled up for the top. I tried to go light on the jointer/planar because i need the top to be as thick as possible. I think I ended up with all pieces being 7/8".
Here are some images of the planks with and without a splash of mineral spirits to highlight the figure.
Natural wood
With a little mineral spirits applied (and then a little denatured alcohol since i ran out of MS).
I plan to tint the sap wood with Trans-tint and then bulk tint before finishing.
2
Nice wood. keep it coming.Pieces for the top piece
Here are the pieces i milled up for the top. I tried to go light on the jointer/planar because i need the top to be as thick as possible. I think I ended up with all pieces being 7/8".
Glue up the top
The top pieces have been chosen and in the clamps for glue-up as we speak. The domino tenons helped keep everything aligned and flat for the clamping. I cleaned up the squeeze out and will let it set while i work on the face frame and doors.
The top pieces have been chosen and in the clamps for glue-up as we speak. The domino tenons helped keep everything aligned and flat for the clamping. I cleaned up the squeeze out and will let it set while i work on the face frame and doors.
Looks good so far. Pretty wood.Glue up the top
The top pieces have been chosen and in the clamps for glue-up as we speak. The domino tenons helped keep everything aligned and flat for the clamping. I cleaned up the squeeze out and will let it set while i work on the face frame and doors.
Face frame dry fit
I used domino loose tenon joinery to form the face frame. This is the dry fit to check that all is square with the middle and bottome rails in the proper position for the drawer opening. Looks good. I'll add solid edge bands to the shelves. Once their square, I'll go back and measure the two vertical face frame pieces for the drawer dividers.
I'll glue and clamp it up tomorrow when construct the doors.
I used domino loose tenon joinery to form the face frame. This is the dry fit to check that all is square with the middle and bottome rails in the proper position for the drawer opening. Looks good. I'll add solid edge bands to the shelves. Once their square, I'll go back and measure the two vertical face frame pieces for the drawer dividers.
I'll glue and clamp it up tomorrow when construct the doors.
Beautiful wood. I like the proportions of the case and shelves.Face frame dry fit
I used domino loose tenon joinery to form the face frame. This is the dry fit to check that all is square with the middle and bottome rails in the proper position for the drawer opening. Looks good. I'll add solid edge bands to the shelves. Once their square, I'll go back and measure the two vertical face frame pieces for the drawer dividers.
I'll glue and clamp it up tomorrow when construct the doors.
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