Big cabinet for the new home

Lalen said:

Rough drawing - concept

So… moved into a new house a few months ago and my wife needs some more storage for her serving dishes, bowls, cake plates and so on. (She has a lot of things to set up for parties etc)

We looked at a lot of things on line, then put together a design that will fit her storage needs, and what I think I can make. This will be my biggest build project to date.

This is the rough idea. I haven't added molding details to the drawing We will decide that as I go, but I mainly wanted to get structural dimensions, material estimates and a plan of attack. There is only one shelf drawn in, which will be fixed. It will have more that will be adjustable or removable.

The biggest cabinet I have built before was that little sideboard, so this will be a challenge. I will try to blog as I go along and would appreciate any feedback or tips!

I plan to build in components (pic below) 1. Base, 2. Cabinet bodies, 3 face frames, 4 Doors. 5. Drawers, 6. Attach crown molding last

Its huge, and though not really a built in, will be secured to the wall.

Click to expand...

Looks like a nice cabinet evolving there. I hope you will share the build especially the way you make the doors…...

Lalen said:

Rough drawing - concept

So… moved into a new house a few months ago and my wife needs some more storage for her serving dishes, bowls, cake plates and so on. (She has a lot of things to set up for parties etc)

We looked at a lot of things on line, then put together a design that will fit her storage needs, and what I think I can make. This will be my biggest build project to date.

This is the rough idea. I haven't added molding details to the drawing We will decide that as I go, but I mainly wanted to get structural dimensions, material estimates and a plan of attack. There is only one shelf drawn in, which will be fixed. It will have more that will be adjustable or removable.

The biggest cabinet I have built before was that little sideboard, so this will be a challenge. I will try to blog as I go along and would appreciate any feedback or tips!

I plan to build in components (pic below) 1. Base, 2. Cabinet bodies, 3 face frames, 4 Doors. 5. Drawers, 6. Attach crown molding last

Its huge, and though not really a built in, will be secured to the wall.

Click to expand...

Lalen, that will be one massive piece. Will you construct it so that it can be broken down once it is complete should you ever want to move? Is the intended room large enough so it doesn't "overwhelm" the space? How do you intend to affix the shelves, sliding dovetails? I think the glass will be quite heavy for the delicate frames, I would consider using extra hinges, maybe 4 for each door and the strongest joinery the rails and stiles will accommodate. However, I know that I tend to over engineer my projects.

It looks like it should be a fun build and please keep us updated with your progress.

Lalen said:

Rough drawing - concept

So… moved into a new house a few months ago and my wife needs some more storage for her serving dishes, bowls, cake plates and so on. (She has a lot of things to set up for parties etc)

We looked at a lot of things on line, then put together a design that will fit her storage needs, and what I think I can make. This will be my biggest build project to date.

This is the rough idea. I haven't added molding details to the drawing We will decide that as I go, but I mainly wanted to get structural dimensions, material estimates and a plan of attack. There is only one shelf drawn in, which will be fixed. It will have more that will be adjustable or removable.

The biggest cabinet I have built before was that little sideboard, so this will be a challenge. I will try to blog as I go along and would appreciate any feedback or tips!

I plan to build in components (pic below) 1. Base, 2. Cabinet bodies, 3 face frames, 4 Doors. 5. Drawers, 6. Attach crown molding last

Its huge, and though not really a built in, will be secured to the wall.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Sure will!

Looks like a nice cabinet evolving there. I hope you will share the build especially the way you make the doors…...

- Kelster58

Click to expand...

Lalen said:

Rough drawing - concept

So… moved into a new house a few months ago and my wife needs some more storage for her serving dishes, bowls, cake plates and so on. (She has a lot of things to set up for parties etc)

We looked at a lot of things on line, then put together a design that will fit her storage needs, and what I think I can make. This will be my biggest build project to date.

This is the rough idea. I haven't added molding details to the drawing We will decide that as I go, but I mainly wanted to get structural dimensions, material estimates and a plan of attack. There is only one shelf drawn in, which will be fixed. It will have more that will be adjustable or removable.

The biggest cabinet I have built before was that little sideboard, so this will be a challenge. I will try to blog as I go along and would appreciate any feedback or tips!

I plan to build in components (pic below) 1. Base, 2. Cabinet bodies, 3 face frames, 4 Doors. 5. Drawers, 6. Attach crown molding last

Its huge, and though not really a built in, will be secured to the wall.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback! Yes. Making it modular.

The 3 big cabinets will just be screwed together and to the base. So will just need to take the crown off and unscrew.

The doors worry me the most. Never done with glass panels. Right now I plan to have the pane dividers one and a half inches wide, maybe 2. and use a full 4/4 material with a rabbet in the back and individual panes. Will probably use 3 hinges per door.

I hadn't considered using sliding dovetails, never done that either but sounds like a good idea for this application. I was just thinking dados.

Room is good. 11' ceilings.

Lalen, that will be one massive piece. Will you construct it so that it can be broken down once it is complete should you ever want to move? Is the intended room large enough so it doesn t "overwhelm" the space? How do you intend to affix the shelves, sliding dovetails? I think the glass will be quite heavy for the delicate frames, I would consider using extra hinges, maybe 4 for each door and the strongest joinery the rails and stiles will accommodate. However, I know that I tend to over engineer my projects.

It looks like it should be a fun build and please keep us updated with your progress.

- AandCstyle

Click to expand...

Lalen said:

Rough drawing - concept

So… moved into a new house a few months ago and my wife needs some more storage for her serving dishes, bowls, cake plates and so on. (She has a lot of things to set up for parties etc)

We looked at a lot of things on line, then put together a design that will fit her storage needs, and what I think I can make. This will be my biggest build project to date.

This is the rough idea. I haven't added molding details to the drawing We will decide that as I go, but I mainly wanted to get structural dimensions, material estimates and a plan of attack. There is only one shelf drawn in, which will be fixed. It will have more that will be adjustable or removable.

The biggest cabinet I have built before was that little sideboard, so this will be a challenge. I will try to blog as I go along and would appreciate any feedback or tips!

I plan to build in components (pic below) 1. Base, 2. Cabinet bodies, 3 face frames, 4 Doors. 5. Drawers, 6. Attach crown molding last

Its huge, and though not really a built in, will be secured to the wall.

Click to expand...

Looks like an ambitious, yet do-able, project. Hope you enjoy the build.

This thing will be heavy!

Well, I got started breaking down the plywood parts. 10 sheets of 3/4, this thing is really going to be heavy.

Components of the big cabinet. 3 carcasess and 3 drawer boxes will be plywood.


I got Lowes to do the initial breakdown. but just one cut each sheet of plywood. The only thing cut to final size was the backs. at 33" by 96" I didnt want to trim them if I didnt have to. so I hoped they would give me a nice square cut.. They came out fine though a little rough. rough edges will be buried in rabbets or on the back of cabinet so no issues. All others I just had them bisect length wise to make easier to handle.



I used some of the same plywood to make a temporary, large panel cutting cross cut sled. Got pretty lucky getting it square on the first set up. I used 5-cut method to test and came out within .0015" of per inch. The widest finish cut I will make is 20" so .03" over the distance is not bad I think. I'm not messing with it.



Not much else to see yet. Just roughed out parts. 3 backs, 6 sides an 12 pieces that will be the tops, bottoms and fixed, structural shelves. I'll need to pick up more for the adjustable shelves.



All the off-cuts currently stuffed under my out-feed table will become the drawer boxes. Since the dimensions of the cabinet is greater than 8'x8' Its been hard not to waste, but using the 3/4 for drawers even though overkill will use a lot of it.



Next steps, trim to final size, then rabbets and dados.

As always, I welcome any ideas or feedback!

Design change, big dado setup, rabbets and an oops.

Design change.

More difficult but I think this one looks much better. Primarily changed up the door design to go inset with an upper and lower cabinet and with more glass panes. Went from 6 to 12 doors. We still haven't decided on the detail for drawer fronts. Crown molding will be more ornate.



Compare to the original.



I was really concerned about getting the interior dados lined up for the sides and back. I knew it wouldn't go together well if they weren't lined up perfectly. Each back was 33" and sides are 18.75. I created this little setup on the floor so I could cut them all together. I tacked a long straight edge across the top of some underlayment.



I then butted the 3 pieces against the straight edge and each other, then tacked a fence for the router to run against while keeping the pieces together.



About 120 liner feet of 3/4×1/4 rabbets and dados create a big mess.


OOPS!

I was cutting rabbets on my last board, turned the corner and started down the side before remembering this board didn't get a side rabbet. bummer.


In the end, not a hard fix, but I'm happy this is will be a painted project.I just sized and glued in a piece. once dry, I'll trim it flush and move on.


Next step will be assembling these big carcasses and trying to keep them square!

Big stuff is done, DIY bun feet.

All that remains is doors and drawer fronts!

Here is the current status. Sorry its a bit dark, but its a black cabinet and I still need to get some lights added to the new house. I included my 8' ladder for scale. Total storage capacity is about 96 cubic feet.





The 3 cabinets were each 8' high by 34" wide, 19.5" deep outside dimensions. I made the base 5.5" high and inset 3/4" to clear the baseboard then the crown molding added another couple inches in height. I secured to the wall with L brackets at the top.

I guess the only other interesting thing since last update is the bun feet. (hard to see in the pics of the finished cabinet). I priced buying them, but I could only find 3"-4" diameter and they ranged from $9-$12 each and I needed 8.

I made some using some 2×6 on hand. Ripped to rough thickness, glue up, plane to 2" thickness, cut squares, cut circles then round off on the lathe. just under 6" diameter is more fitting for this cabinet

Working on the doors: Need opinion on reinforcements.

Changed the design back to bigger windows, and boy am I glad. Making 12 doors required 72 parts. Here is a dry fit of one upper and lower door.



I used the Glass Panel Door router set from Sommerfeld's Tools. I found his videos on youtube and found it very helpful and so I ordered his set and followed his process.

Here is my question. Because my lower doors are fairly large (47"x16") I am wondering if I may need to reinforce the corner joints. Here is a couple pictures of how it will glue together. This is birch (pretty hard) and the engagement is about 7/16 deep and the rails are 2-7/16 wide.





It may be enough.. lots of glue area although some is end grain to side grain. Opinions appreciated! Options I am considering…(note project will be painted)

After assembly: Dowels or countersunk screws through the stiles into the rails (would have to be 4") .. or cutting a 1/4" wide 1" deep dado across the top and bottom of the door and adding splines.

During assembly... Cut pocket holes in the rails and screw through into the stiles. I tested on some scraps and looks pretty strong although I have to fill the holes.



Here are a few more in process pictures. I had a bunch of 4/4 birch I had no plans for.. (got it from a guy who was moving for about $0.50 per board foot.) Milled up and prepped the parts over the course of several days.

Lalen said:

Working on the doors: Need opinion on reinforcements.

Changed the design back to bigger windows, and boy am I glad. Making 12 doors required 72 parts. Here is a dry fit of one upper and lower door.

I used the Glass Panel Door router set from Sommerfeld's Tools. I found his videos on youtube and found it very helpful and so I ordered his set and followed his process.

Here is my question. Because my lower doors are fairly large (47"x16") I am wondering if I may need to reinforce the corner joints. Here is a couple pictures of how it will glue together. This is birch (pretty hard) and the engagement is about 7/16 deep and the rails are 2-7/16 wide.

It may be enough.. lots of glue area although some is end grain to side grain. Opinions appreciated! Options I am considering…(note project will be painted)

After assembly: Dowels or countersunk screws through the stiles into the rails (would have to be 4") .. or cutting a 1/4" wide 1" deep dado across the top and bottom of the door and adding splines.

During assembly... Cut pocket holes in the rails and screw through into the stiles. I tested on some scraps and looks pretty strong although I have to fill the holes.

Here are a few more in process pictures. I had a bunch of 4/4 birch I had no plans for.. (got it from a guy who was moving for about $0.50 per board foot.) Milled up and prepped the parts over the course of several days.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother with the pocket screws. You've got a lot of joints that each have a lot of surface area for glue.

Lalen said:

Working on the doors: Need opinion on reinforcements.

Changed the design back to bigger windows, and boy am I glad. Making 12 doors required 72 parts. Here is a dry fit of one upper and lower door.

I used the Glass Panel Door router set from Sommerfeld's Tools. I found his videos on youtube and found it very helpful and so I ordered his set and followed his process.

Here is my question. Because my lower doors are fairly large (47"x16") I am wondering if I may need to reinforce the corner joints. Here is a couple pictures of how it will glue together. This is birch (pretty hard) and the engagement is about 7/16 deep and the rails are 2-7/16 wide.

It may be enough.. lots of glue area although some is end grain to side grain. Opinions appreciated! Options I am considering…(note project will be painted)

After assembly: Dowels or countersunk screws through the stiles into the rails (would have to be 4") .. or cutting a 1/4" wide 1" deep dado across the top and bottom of the door and adding splines.

During assembly... Cut pocket holes in the rails and screw through into the stiles. I tested on some scraps and looks pretty strong although I have to fill the holes.

Here are a few more in process pictures. I had a bunch of 4/4 birch I had no plans for.. (got it from a guy who was moving for about $0.50 per board foot.) Milled up and prepped the parts over the course of several days.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback Willie. I really didn't want to do the pocket screws and fill the holes. Since these will be painted.. I can add later if I end up with problems.

I wouldn t bother with the pocket screws. You ve got a lot of joints that each have a lot of surface area for glue.

- pintodeluxe

Click to expand...

Lalen said:

Working on the doors: Need opinion on reinforcements.

Changed the design back to bigger windows, and boy am I glad. Making 12 doors required 72 parts. Here is a dry fit of one upper and lower door.

I used the Glass Panel Door router set from Sommerfeld's Tools. I found his videos on youtube and found it very helpful and so I ordered his set and followed his process.

Here is my question. Because my lower doors are fairly large (47"x16") I am wondering if I may need to reinforce the corner joints. Here is a couple pictures of how it will glue together. This is birch (pretty hard) and the engagement is about 7/16 deep and the rails are 2-7/16 wide.

It may be enough.. lots of glue area although some is end grain to side grain. Opinions appreciated! Options I am considering…(note project will be painted)

After assembly: Dowels or countersunk screws through the stiles into the rails (would have to be 4") .. or cutting a 1/4" wide 1" deep dado across the top and bottom of the door and adding splines.

During assembly... Cut pocket holes in the rails and screw through into the stiles. I tested on some scraps and looks pretty strong although I have to fill the holes.

Here are a few more in process pictures. I had a bunch of 4/4 birch I had no plans for.. (got it from a guy who was moving for about $0.50 per board foot.) Milled up and prepped the parts over the course of several days.

Click to expand...

Lalen,

(47"x16") is 1193.8 and 406.4 in mm.
with 3 x cross pieces equally spaced.

A question first, What sort of glue do you intend using?

Lalen said:

Working on the doors: Need opinion on reinforcements.

Changed the design back to bigger windows, and boy am I glad. Making 12 doors required 72 parts. Here is a dry fit of one upper and lower door.

I used the Glass Panel Door router set from Sommerfeld's Tools. I found his videos on youtube and found it very helpful and so I ordered his set and followed his process.

Here is my question. Because my lower doors are fairly large (47"x16") I am wondering if I may need to reinforce the corner joints. Here is a couple pictures of how it will glue together. This is birch (pretty hard) and the engagement is about 7/16 deep and the rails are 2-7/16 wide.

It may be enough.. lots of glue area although some is end grain to side grain. Opinions appreciated! Options I am considering…(note project will be painted)

After assembly: Dowels or countersunk screws through the stiles into the rails (would have to be 4") .. or cutting a 1/4" wide 1" deep dado across the top and bottom of the door and adding splines.

During assembly... Cut pocket holes in the rails and screw through into the stiles. I tested on some scraps and looks pretty strong although I have to fill the holes.

Here are a few more in process pictures. I had a bunch of 4/4 birch I had no plans for.. (got it from a guy who was moving for about $0.50 per board foot.) Milled up and prepped the parts over the course of several days.

Click to expand...

Hi Rob…

Thanks!

I used Titebond III.. its what I had but didn't think about glue types like using epoxy.) I went ahead and assembled, but still considering the reinforcement options. The cross pieces are 1-1/8" wide and do add some strength.

thanks for any input.

Lalen,

(47"x16") is 1193.8 and 406.4 in mm.
with 3 x cross pieces equally spaced.

A question first, What sort of glue do you intend using?

- robscastle

Click to expand...

Lalen said:

Working on the doors: Need opinion on reinforcements.

Changed the design back to bigger windows, and boy am I glad. Making 12 doors required 72 parts. Here is a dry fit of one upper and lower door.

I used the Glass Panel Door router set from Sommerfeld's Tools. I found his videos on youtube and found it very helpful and so I ordered his set and followed his process.

Here is my question. Because my lower doors are fairly large (47"x16") I am wondering if I may need to reinforce the corner joints. Here is a couple pictures of how it will glue together. This is birch (pretty hard) and the engagement is about 7/16 deep and the rails are 2-7/16 wide.

It may be enough.. lots of glue area although some is end grain to side grain. Opinions appreciated! Options I am considering…(note project will be painted)

After assembly: Dowels or countersunk screws through the stiles into the rails (would have to be 4") .. or cutting a 1/4" wide 1" deep dado across the top and bottom of the door and adding splines.

During assembly... Cut pocket holes in the rails and screw through into the stiles. I tested on some scraps and looks pretty strong although I have to fill the holes.

Here are a few more in process pictures. I had a bunch of 4/4 birch I had no plans for.. (got it from a guy who was moving for about $0.50 per board foot.) Milled up and prepped the parts over the course of several days.

Click to expand...

With the III glue they will be fine, either way, if you do decide to add screws so be it.

Its done! Wrap up, "Once you go black......"

Spread over three months, this thing is finally done. Quite the adventure and I learned a lot. Just wanted to share some final in-use pictures and thank those who gave input. One bit of feedback early on led me to the change of the doors from 6 top to bottom to 12 with a small upper and a lower door. I also put 3 hinges on the lower door to ensure it is well supported over time. (middle one is off center so it won't interfere with the shelf.)

For those who expressed interest in how I would make the doors… hopefully I shared enough, but the main thing I did is used the router bit set and youtube video instructions from Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood. (link in the last blog entry)

One thing that will come back to haunt me if we ever decide to paint this another color is I used black silicone caulk to 'glaze' in the glass. Too late I thought about the fact you cant paint that stuff!... Ive always heard that once you go black, you cant go back. Not sure what that means ;-) but in this case it applies.

Additional pictures in my project post. Thanks again for looking and the feedback along the way.

Lalen said:

Its done! Wrap up, "Once you go black......"

Spread over three months, this thing is finally done. Quite the adventure and I learned a lot. Just wanted to share some final in-use pictures and thank those who gave input. One bit of feedback early on led me to the change of the doors from 6 top to bottom to 12 with a small upper and a lower door. I also put 3 hinges on the lower door to ensure it is well supported over time. (middle one is off center so it won't interfere with the shelf.)

For those who expressed interest in how I would make the doors… hopefully I shared enough, but the main thing I did is used the router bit set and youtube video instructions from Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood. (link in the last blog entry)

One thing that will come back to haunt me if we ever decide to paint this another color is I used black silicone caulk to 'glaze' in the glass. Too late I thought about the fact you cant paint that stuff!... Ive always heard that once you go black, you cant go back. Not sure what that means ;-) but in this case it applies.

Additional pictures in my project post. Thanks again for looking and the feedback along the way.

Click to expand...

The glossy black is stunning on that cabinet, especially with the white dishes inside. The millwork and glass work looks great!

BTW, I think you made a good decision to use a short and tall door, instead of one very tall door.

Lalen said:

Its done! Wrap up, "Once you go black......"

Spread over three months, this thing is finally done. Quite the adventure and I learned a lot. Just wanted to share some final in-use pictures and thank those who gave input. One bit of feedback early on led me to the change of the doors from 6 top to bottom to 12 with a small upper and a lower door. I also put 3 hinges on the lower door to ensure it is well supported over time. (middle one is off center so it won't interfere with the shelf.)

For those who expressed interest in how I would make the doors… hopefully I shared enough, but the main thing I did is used the router bit set and youtube video instructions from Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood. (link in the last blog entry)

One thing that will come back to haunt me if we ever decide to paint this another color is I used black silicone caulk to 'glaze' in the glass. Too late I thought about the fact you cant paint that stuff!... Ive always heard that once you go black, you cant go back. Not sure what that means ;-) but in this case it applies.

Additional pictures in my project post. Thanks again for looking and the feedback along the way.

Click to expand...

thanks so much Don.

The glossy black is stunning on that cabinet, especially with the white dishes inside. The millwork and glass work looks great!

BTW, I think you made a good decision to use a short and tall door, instead of one very tall door.

- Don Broussard

Click to expand...

Lalen said:

Its done! Wrap up, "Once you go black......"

Spread over three months, this thing is finally done. Quite the adventure and I learned a lot. Just wanted to share some final in-use pictures and thank those who gave input. One bit of feedback early on led me to the change of the doors from 6 top to bottom to 12 with a small upper and a lower door. I also put 3 hinges on the lower door to ensure it is well supported over time. (middle one is off center so it won't interfere with the shelf.)

For those who expressed interest in how I would make the doors… hopefully I shared enough, but the main thing I did is used the router bit set and youtube video instructions from Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood. (link in the last blog entry)

One thing that will come back to haunt me if we ever decide to paint this another color is I used black silicone caulk to 'glaze' in the glass. Too late I thought about the fact you cant paint that stuff!... Ive always heard that once you go black, you cant go back. Not sure what that means ;-) but in this case it applies.

Additional pictures in my project post. Thanks again for looking and the feedback along the way.

Click to expand...

Hello Lalen,

The final product looks very good, congratulations.

I have been away for a while and missed your Project post until my return today.

In regard to using silicone caulk to 'glaze' in the glass, I thought Marc had covered this in one of his videos, but upon checking could not find the exact session so I have added this link.


A little late for this project but something to think about for your next project with panel doors.

Also I cannot find any references to it but I think there is now a product available that you can use to make silicon paintable.

Keep up the good work !!

Lalen said:

Its done! Wrap up, "Once you go black......"

Spread over three months, this thing is finally done. Quite the adventure and I learned a lot. Just wanted to share some final in-use pictures and thank those who gave input. One bit of feedback early on led me to the change of the doors from 6 top to bottom to 12 with a small upper and a lower door. I also put 3 hinges on the lower door to ensure it is well supported over time. (middle one is off center so it won't interfere with the shelf.)

For those who expressed interest in how I would make the doors… hopefully I shared enough, but the main thing I did is used the router bit set and youtube video instructions from Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood. (link in the last blog entry)

One thing that will come back to haunt me if we ever decide to paint this another color is I used black silicone caulk to 'glaze' in the glass. Too late I thought about the fact you cant paint that stuff!... Ive always heard that once you go black, you cant go back. Not sure what that means ;-) but in this case it applies.

Additional pictures in my project post. Thanks again for looking and the feedback along the way.

Click to expand...

That is flat out impressive. Must have been a serious big job.