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Talked to a guy on the phone yesterday. He's getting rid of a bunch of woodworking stuff that he hasn't used in several years. He brought it all with him when he moved here from California and never actually got to setting up a shop here.

One of the things on his list is a Biesemeyer fence and rails…. for $50

I'm going to check it out probably tomorrow… with money in hand. If it's not trashed I'm going to pick it up. He's also got an apparent boatload of clamps, but to be honest, I don't have a ton of free cash on hand right now so I'll probably have to pass on anything but the fence…. again…. if it's not trashed.

I have a Steel City 35990G and the ONLY thing I'm not happy with on that saw is the fence and split front rail. I'm HOPING I can bolt up that Biesemeyer without too much trouble.

For $50 it's worth a shot if I can get it and it's not been abused to death. :)

Why did I post this when I don't even have it (and may not get it)???
'Cause I'm excited! That's why… hehehe
 

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That's a you suck waiting to happen, Charlie. Even if you have to do some modifications to the mounting rail on the Bies, it'll be worth it for the improvement over the two piece front rail.
 

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Even if abused and in need of some wear items it's still a great deal considering how much they cost new. Cast iron drills & taps easily if new mounting holes are required, just buy a quality tap if you don't have one.
 

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i paid $50 for a Shop Fox Classic (Bies clone) on CL several years ago-still my best CL score.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Even if abused and in need of some wear items it s still a great deal considering how much they cost new. Cast iron drills & taps easily if new mounting holes are required, just buy a quality tap if you don t have one.

- shawnn
I have a granite top saw. :) So there will be no drillin' and tappin' of the saw table. :)
It would be easier for me to redrill the rail to match the saw table if that kind of modification is necessary.
My current front tube is 2" square. If the Biese is 2×3, I might be ok. Depends where all the holes fall. My front mounting rail is not 3×2 angle like I think the biesemeyer angle is (3" being the verticlec and 2" projection). But the biesemeyer front angle looks like it goes flush with the table top and has cutouts for the miter slots. My existing angle is set just flush to the bottom of the miter slots so there are no cutouts needed.
 

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OK…. pictures.
This is what I bought for $50

Table Wood Workbench Engineering Gas

Rail and tube general

Automotive tire Bumper Automotive lighting Tire Wood

Left end of rail and tube

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Tire Automotive design Automotive exterior

tube and tape

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Office ruler Gas

right end of rail and tube

Wood Floor Road surface Flooring Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

tube general condition

Wood Flooring Composite material Hardwood Wood stain

back rail

Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Vehicle door

left end of back rail

Wood Floor Hardwood Gas Wood stain

fence adjusting screws. I've backed them out and sprayed with WD40

Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Auto part

fence lock lever and reticle

Motor vehicle Font Automotive exterior Gas Wood

nameplate

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Composite material Gas

ooops. Someone ran the fence into a spinning blade. :) (not me of course)

Hood Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior

underside of fence

Gas Wood Composite material Tints and shades Concrete

fence innards

The mounting rails and tube are all straight. Mounting this is going to be an adventure as NONE of the holes line up with my SC 35990G. The sides of the fence are delaminating. I'm assuming I'd have to peel off that lamination to get at those screws holding the sides on. The screws look like self tappers.

I can see the notch that you're supposed to use to line up the front rail and tube to the blade. That would make the left end of the rail not even go to the left edge of the wing. Considering that I have never cut anything on the left of my blade, I'm not sure if that's a big deal. If I have to shift the front mounting rail left a little, then the measuring tape on the tube will need to be replaced.

There is no "foot" on the fence to ride on the back rail. So apparently the back rail does nothing but serve as an attachment for an extension table on the right side. So once I get to where I'm ready to mount this thing I'll have to also build the extension table (yay!)

First order of business is to do some serious cleaning and see what I can do about the rusted areas.
I might be able to use the existing front mounting rail as a template to layout the drilling of the biesemeyer rail. Then I'll be pondering how best to go after getting it ready for mounting. THEN I'll make some decisions as to painting and possibly redoing the tape measure.

So…. how'd I do? Is this still a gloat with all that has to be done to USE it? :)
 

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That's the 50in rail system, too. Nice! A little cleanup and maybe a new paint job to keep rust at bay and you should be in business. Are you going to build an extension table to take advantage of the rail length?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I m jealous. Are you into painting tools? I typically don t paint tools.

Let us know how many of the holes line up with your table saw.

- nicksmurf111
Like…. NONE of the holes line up. :)

I'm not a stickler for a pretty paint job, but I'd paint these parts to make them easier to clean and to help prevent rust. My shop is not heated full time. I'm more concerned with it WORKING right than how it looks. But a little time with some paint prep means a lot less time fighting rust :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That s the 50in rail system, too. Nice! A little cleanup and maybe a new paint job to keep rust at bay and you should be in business. Are you going to build an extension table to take advantage of the rail length?

- JayT
If this mounts up where I think it's going to mount, then yeah, I'll need the table to the right. Otherwise the extra rail length is useless. The fence has nothing to sit on once you shove it off the wing to the right.
 

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I got real lucky last year, I found a cheap craftsman contractor saw on eBay, only paid $30 for the saw drove three hours to pick it up. The seller had left it on the drive way for me to load, and guess what was sitting on the saw! An in decent shape biesemeyer fence with 70 inch rail. I only bought the saw for back up parts! Lol instill havent put it on, it will be used when I find finish rehabbing my pm65 saw I bought for $75.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think my thinking cap will be working overtime trying to figure out the best way to get the front angle iron mounting rail drilled to match the holes in my table saw. The spacing isn't hard to figure out. I can make a template from the existing angle iron. Getting the height …. that'll be a bit more of a challenge. I think the part of the angle iron to which the front tube gets mounted, has to be 2-7/8 from the top of the table. I'm going to have to figure out a jig of some sort just to get the hole locations marked on the biesemeyer mounting angle. If I set the angle just a teeny bit low, I can shim the tube up. But if I set it too high, well that would be bad I think.

Tell me if this is correct…
I want the fence to rest flat on the table saw, and the front tube needs to be at a height where the fence is resting on the tube and up off the table just a hair. Like…. the bottom of the fence itself has a "pad" of that slippery plastic stuff. Maybe a 1/16 thick. So the end of the fence closest to the front edge of the table should be held off the table by that same amount because it's resting on the front tube. ... Basically the entire length of the fence shouldn't be dragging on the table. The fence should touch the table where that pad is and should rest on the front tube so the bottom of the fence is just ever-so-slightly above the table.

right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Whew….
front rail drilled and mounted.
Wood Tool Gas Table Machine


This is adding a TON of space to the right of the blade and there's nearly none to the left, which is actually fine with me as I haven't done any ripping on the left anyways.
Wood Gas Engineering Machine Tool


The wood at either end isn't supporting anything. I just used it to hold the angle iron while I was bolting it up for this test fit. I have supported the long overhang while I'm waiting to take it all back off again to clean it up for a fresh paint job. I was debating painting it, but …. it kinda looks crappy like it is. I might be able to get the guy next door to take the pieces to work and paint them with a good quality paint. He paints cars at a collision shop.

Tool Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Measuring instrument


The picture above shows how it aligned. That yellow steel rule is against the blade and the little notch in the angle iron is supposed to be lined up with the blade-side edge of the rule as close as possible to get reticle centered on the 0 mark of the tape measure. I think I got really close. :)

Rectangle Table Wood Flooring Floor


Pic above shows how far above the table the fence is floating. Looks like more than it actually is because of shadow, but it's right about 1/16. I have to replace the fence "skins" anyways as they are beyond repair, but… I need a table saw with a fence to make new skins! :) I'm just going to mount my original fence after I take this front rail off.

This was one of those "measure 30 times in 8 or 10 different ways and THEN mark the holes and drill them" kind of projects. AND…. I drilled them with a hand held. Could have done them in the drill press, but…..

I don't have any way to counterbore the angle iron for the button head allen screws that hold it on. So…. the fence whacks the screw heads if I slide it from the lock handle end. No problem if I move it by grabbing the middle. I have room to add some pieces of 1.8" aluminum between the screws and so I might do that. That's a "wait and see" if it's really an issue. And it might be.

I still have to do the back rail, but that's nowhere near as critical as the front rail since the back one doesn't really do anything more than support the table extension. The back rail DOES create an awesome support for an outfeed table though. THAT might be something I'd be interested in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, no one has actually said it yet. So let me be the first…

YOU SUCK !

- JoeinGa
grin
:)

OK so I also got the back rail drilled and test fitted. Now I have all the biesemeyer parts OFF of the saw and my original fence back on there in case I need to actually USE the saw for something. I have to clean all the parts up and get ready for paint, and I have to strip the old fence faces off as they're kinda beat up and no longer straight in ANY direction. I don't think I'm going to bother with laminating new faces. I may just use some 1/2" baltic birch ply that I have OR I might face it with 1/2" Corian which I also have laying around. OR… I could mill down a piece of maple, but I think the baltic ply or Corian would be more stable :)

Either way, the fence has to come apart and get refurbed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm in the process of painting the rails and tube. Spent a good portion of yesterday cleaning them up so…. had to paint them due to all that bare metal showing. Just using Rustoleum. Primed first. Then spraying them white.

Once those pieces are protected I plan on moving on to refurbishing the fence itself. The one big issue I have is that I don't think the cam lock lever is a Biesemeyer cam lever. It's not SHAPED like any of the ones I've seen. And trying to FIND one is an exercise in futility. Every place I check just says they're discontinued and no longer available.

I'm ALSO not sure if there are different lock levers for different models AND… I don't know what model fence I have. There's no model number on the nameplate on the fence.

Anyone know more about these levers? This is my first Biesemeyer and right now I'm a bit disappointed at not being able to get parts for something that's regarded so highly in general.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sliders are on the head. And that piece between the cam and tube is there and has a pad on it. That piece looks like every picture I've seen of the "cam foot". The lock works. It just doesn't look like a biesemeyer cam lock lever.

I've taken the faces off the fence and I'm chemical stripping it (CitrusStrip). I'll take it to bare metal and start fresh with primer and paint like I did on the rails and tube. They came out pretty good, considering what I started with. I also taped off the measuring tape so it wouldn't get painted :) And I taped off the areas where the slider pads run on the tube.
 
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