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well ill assume you have a table saw,so set your blade at 45 degrees and run it through on both sides.unless im missing something it's a simple procedure.
 

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I have done this any number of times by simply setting the blade at 45 deg and running the piece between the blade and the fence. This usually works pretty well. However, I would love to hear from someone who has done it with an "L" fence and a straight template. Thinking about it, it seems it might be better and safer. Set up might be a bit more tedious.
 

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My opinion is the safest way to do this is to tilt the blade away from the fence. If the blade is tilted towards the fence you have a greater chance of binding and kick back.

There is another way to do it where you tilt the blade into a sacrificial fence basically creating a zero clearance bevel cut. but that has the potential of kicking back the cutoff so I don't want to go into detail about it. If you look at my projects and see the lamp I made, this is how I made the bevel cuts on the lamp shade. I learned this method from an article in Wood magazine so if you are interested I can try and find that article to make sure I explain it properly so you can do it safely.
 

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Am I looking at the end of a 6" wide board or the edge of a 6" long board? Tilting the blade away from the fence and running the piece along the fence ( assuming a short piece) still has high potential for kickback. The cutoff can get trapped between the table and blade until a tooth snags it. I learned when making those cuts to trim a bunch off on the band saw first.
 

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can someone help? what is the correct procedure for cutting a bevel cut like this
Sleeve Automotive design Gesture Collar Automotive lighting


thanks very much

rjherald

- rjherald
I guess I need to clarify. The bevel cut I described is for a rip cut along the long grain and this is what I assumed you meant. If this is a bevel cut along the end grain (cross cut) then you need to use a miter gauge or a sled.
 

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